Now i need antique ivory and ebony grips.

I want to get a .32 caliber squirrel rifle but can't seem to find powder. I know nothing about muzzleloaders so work with me. I have not found any Goex or Swiss as these were the ones suggested to me. Really want the gun but I feel it would be pointless without a powder to use it. Any help would be appreciated in pointing me where to find powder.

This thing basically spits powder out

Been working on my Traditions Kentucky rifle kit on and off for about a month. First off I'm not sure if that's how the trigger plate is supposed to sit as I'm also not able to screw the barrel tang into it. I opted to keep the brass spacer off. Should I use wood putty or put a sliver of wood in between the two stock halves. Last but not least is installing the end thimble. Is that meant to be hammered in before installing the screw?

77-13-10, 1.75 density, 60 grains over 6 inches, 3F granulation. Looks promising, hoping to get a chronograph reading on my next range trip.

Great yield with only~ 20% fines/4F , ~30% 3F & ~50% 2F and hard durable kernels that took an excellent glaze

From last hunting season and the first hunt I did with my fowler

Rifle traditions kentucky long rifle 33 1/2 barrel 495 round ball 1 in 66 twist this was my first deer ever

Nice pair of late 90s Pietta 1858 Remingtons.

Hi everyone,

My brother made a batch of homemade black powder using toilet-paper charcoal, and I’d like to understand whether it can be considered suitable for use in a black-powder revolver.

The batch was 120 g in total. The ingredients were potassium nitrate, charcoal and sulfur.

The mixture was processed in a ball mill and subsequently formed into granules using isopropyl alcohol before being dried.

I understand that homemade powder can vary significantly from batch to batch, and that the appearance and nominal grain size don’t necessarily establish its performance or safety.

My questions are:

Can the quality and consistency of homemade powder be established reliably without specialist testing?

Is there any reliable way to determine whether a homemade batch is suitable for a firearm rather than merely assuming it behaves like commercial powder?

Are there any particular concerns with using homemade powder in a Pietta 1858 Remington reproduction?

I’m in Germany, and my priority is to avoid damaging the revolver or risking injury. I’m not looking for instructions to improve the manufacturing process; I’m trying to understand what evidence would actually establish whether this batch is safe to use.

I’d appreciate any informed advice.

Thanks!

Why are people such aholes

I went to zero in my first inline for deer season. My first two shots had almost no recoil and didn’t appear on my target. The third shot had the amount of recoil I expected and showed up on target. I’m shooting 100 gr of pyrodex pellets with a 250gr hornady xtp .452 in a harvester crush rib 50cal sabot.

I had one more low recoil shot mid session and I removed the breech plug to make sure it wasn’t a squid. It looked like there was a pile of powder on the bottom of the barrel I blew it out put the breech plug back in a had not more issues. I know I put two pellets under each bullet. When I walked down range I noticed some of the sabots I recovered had the cups blown out and two of them didn’t. Are the sabots too small for my barrel and the fouling build up helped them finally seal? Were they not properly seated?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I don’t have ready access to a range to experiment.

Hello all, long time lurker of this subreddit here! I just wanted to see if any of you had recommendations for a beginner trying to get into black powder hunting this year. Deer season is coming up here soon and I’m looking for recommendations, ideally a kit I could buy and put together myself, but any input is greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Hey guys, new to shooting blackpowder. How’s my ticking and wad retention?

Shooting from .58 cal Antonio zoli rem 1863 repro, .570 Hornady round ball, .015 ticking lubed, “pre-lubricated” .58 wad, 80gr triple seven FFG.

Any other advice or notes are welcome! 2.5x3in group at 35 yards, just getting started and familiar with the rifle and everything else

I tested my homemade powder. Nothing to be really proud of. Not better than GOEX. I shot it in 32 S&W, 38 S&W and my Euroarms Colt Navy. Easily 100 fps slower than GOEX. I was hoping for better but hey, it is just fine for punching paper.

Hey everyone,

I recently got a Pietta 1858 Remington Sheriff in .44 caliber, and I’m curious about fanning it like you see in old Westerns.

For those who own or have experience with Pietta Remington replicas:

Are these revolvers mechanically durable enough for fanning, or can it damage the hand, bolt, cylinder notches, or trigger mechanism?

Does the Sheriff’s shorter barrel make any difference?

Is occasional fanning significantly different from doing it repeatedly?

Would you recommend avoiding fanning altogether to preserve the revolver’s lifespan?

I want to enjoy the revolver without unnecessarily damaging it or creating a safety issue.

I’m particularly interested in real-world experience with Pietta reproductions.

Thanks!

I read somewhere if you make like the material that you use to hold the flint in the jaws out of lead, you get hotter sparks from the frisen but the flints don't last as long What's your experience?

In this episode, Jake tested homemade blackpowder compressed to a density of 1.85 g/cm3 instead of the usual 1.75 g/cm3. If you want to read my video summary instead of watching the video, I'll put a TL;DW for you down below...

TL;DW

When shot through .36 and .44 caliber 1858 Remington revolvers, 1.85 g/cm3 powder turned out to be cleaner burning overall compared to the same powder pressed to 1.75 g/cm3. Regarding muzzle velocities, it seemed to be a bit of a wash regarding if 1.85 g/cm3 powder is better than 1.75 g/cm3 powder.

When shot through Jake's rifle, the 1.85 g/cm3 was also slower than 1.75 g/cm3 the patches he was using were disintegrating, and he thinks that his rifle is just really picky with powder density that it likes.

So it appears that if you value everything but cleanliness, 1.75 g/cm3 powder is probably the way to go but if cleanliness is your top priority, then 1.85 g/cm3 powder could be worth trying.

Hey everyone,

I have a steel Pietta 1858 Remington Sheriff in .44 caliber, and I’m curious about the potential performance of homemade black powder made using toilet paper as the charcoal source.

Has anyone tested this type of homemade powder and compared it with commercial black powder, such as Swiss, or substitutes like Pyrodex and
Triple Seven?

Specifically, I’m interested in:

What kind of muzzle velocity and muzzle energy differences might be expected?

How consistent is homemade powder compared with commercial powder?

Does toilet-paper-derived charcoal significantly affect the powder’s performance?

I understand that homemade powder can vary considerably in quality, and I’m not assuming it will perform like commercial products. I’m interested in real-world experience and chronograph data, if anyone has any.

I’m not looking for a recipe , just information about performance and how reliably it can be estimated.

Thanks!

I bought a T&C .45lc conversion cylinder for my 1858 new army sherif, and it has been some of the most fun ive had with this revolver. I shot some 250g 820fps magtech, and 200g 890fps hsm. Both loads pull a little hard to the bottom left at 25yrds. (Stick for shell ejection lol)