The time has come. It's been here for a minute, really.

Came across this rare specimen this morning. Completely stock 2002, original owner, factory paint, manual trans, and adult owned. Zero cancer spots, even the engine bay and undercarriage were rust free. The owner said it's never seen rain or snow. A true survivor with a little over 160k miles on it.

If you can't tell already I'm driving the white Outback.

My wife’s crosstrek is having this weird idle. It stutters like a stalling manual. Can anyone advise what this might be?

2024 crosstrek with 60k miles

Very happy with how it came out. My Ashiko was just a bit too cumbersome a knob for someone such as myself that doesnt have huge hands. Couldn't get a firm purchase occasionally during spirited driving. This knob feels far better for me, and it matches the overall aesthetic im aiming for better with raw steel and leather. Very happy! Opted in for the boot retainer as well - also in silver.

Just below window is all banged up symmetrically L/R.

Is it worth spending 2000$ on tech like blind spot detector, 360’ camera view on old car like 2001 forester. It run and drives great but is it worth in 2026. What you say. i have already spent $3000 to restore original look. Thank you for reading.

Im trying to figure out what kit is best and what makes the most sense. It’s a 1995 subaru legacy. It sits so low to the ground and at 6ft tall it’s a struggle to get in and out after work.

I found a video from hrg that showed the process of adding lift spacers to both strut assemblies and then dropping the subframe and adding spacers. It seemed like itd be tough to do in my driveway with just a jack and jackstands. I have a buddy that worls on his old land rover who might be down to help me out.

But also what kit would people recommend.
maxspeedingrods or hrg ?

My short term goal is to be able to put better wheels and slightly larger tires on. Im replacing my hood with one off a 1999 outback that has the hood scoop. Long term i want the motor to be more reliable

Hello subaru family! I've had my chopper(small exhaust leak, loud AF) for about 18 years now, and I'm slowly trying to improve the appearance. My girl has 336,000 on her and I would like to get to 1,000,000. I am no welder of any sort, but wanted to get an opinion of how to fix my rusty spots on my car without having to cut and grind metal and do welding. In the end, that is probably what I will have to do, or have done, but i was curious if there is a simple or better way?

Hey all, looking for help from anyone who's dealt with this. What happened: My 2010 Forester X Limited (automatic) started driving poorly, then the AT OIL TEMP light started flashing. When I restarted it, the cruise and traction control lights were also on. I found a puddle of ATF at the front passenger side, and under the car the transmission cooler line had come off the radiator completely. What I found: • The radiator is an aftermarket CSF 3515, not OEM • The cooler line connects through a brass 90° elbow that threads into the radiator's cooler port, with a hose barb on the other end • It seals with a bonded (Dowty-style) washer, and the rubber was completely cracked and split • The end of the rubber cooler hose looks a bit frayed where it meets the barb Photos attached of the elbow, washer, and hose. It's been towed to a shop, but I'd like to go in informed. Questions: 1. Does anyone know the thread size of the CSF 3515's ATF cooler ports, or the size of the bonded washer? 2. Has anyone had this fitting fail on a CSF radiator? Did you replace just the washer and elbow, or go back to an OEM radiator? 3. How much do I need to worry about the transmission itself? It ran low long enough to trigger the flashing light, but I shut it off pretty quickly once I noticed. Thanks!

Hey guys, I recently purchased a 2018 Impreza 2.0i with the 5 speed manual. I’m wondering what are things I should keep an eye out for, what maintenance I should be preparing for, just ideas on how to keep this car as reliable as possible. It has 120,000 miles on the body, and a motor with 74,000 miles put in recently with paperwork of that work. I put on roughly 500-600 miles a week give or take for work. Thank you guys

I bought a 2020 Crosstrek in March of 2025. The CarFax report said the Rear Differential was replaced in July of 2024. I thought to myself "Not ideal, but at least it's a new diff!"

Well, I started having some drivetrain issues with skipping and catching over the past week, and my mechanic told me when they drained the rear diff, a chipped gear tooth came out (he showed it to me), and I need to replace it.

My question is: what are the odds!? Can there be something else going on that would cause a rear diff to need to be replaced in such short proximity to the last?

This is my first Subaru and its been an amazing drive with no other issues, otherwise, so I'm feeling pretty distressed over this.

Like, did I get a lemon and I might have this repair be something that comes up multiple times in the future? Or is this just a case of bad luck?

Hi people! I have a civic fd3 hybrid and a miata nb. I'm thinking of replacing them with a legacy 2.0R to combine family car and a bit of pleasure. How is the driving/ handling and reliability of this car?

Just curious if you went for a car and came home with a pup instead or vice versa.

New Subaru owner. My daytime running lights are LED and flicker all the time. I'd like to just unplug them and be done with it. But I've gotten conflicting info on which plug is correct, the one under the hood or is this ABS? Or under the glove box? Anyone have any insight?

I have a 2014 Forester 2.5 l 4-cylinder automatic for about 6 months. We have been plagued with a series of warning lights all tracing back to emissions codes, 0240 if memory serves. Two date we have replaced the mass air flow sensor, the O2 sensors upstream and downstream. We have replaced the catalytic converter again upstream and downstream. Recently we put in a new battery. I am guessing that the time unplugged allowed the computer to reset all of the codes. So for a while after replacing the battery there was no code but beginning last night and on into today and we have the emissions control system needs to be checked. Mileage has cratered And cruise control is inoperative.

I feel like we're running out of things to replace. If there's something else that I can try?

I have a weird one for today. Just seeking to find what caused the issue. I have a theory, but let's start from the beginning.

Background info:
2008 WRX
IAG TYPE RA block
FBO
Cobb 20g
355whp,325tq

Everything was completed about 2 months ago.

Today the car was making a chirping noise/kocking sound. Searched for it, resting my hand against the timing cover I could feel somthing hitting the plastic shield.

Pulled it apart:
- The accessory belt was shredded
- The timing cover was cracked/broken in a bunch of different spots on the front side
- the inner timing cover (behind cam gears) had damage from the timing belt rubbing on it
- The seal on the brand new tensioner was leaking
- The pulley on the brand new tensioner was blue from heat

And all 3 timing tensioner bracket bolts were snapped. One was missing completly, one was missing the head but shaft sticking out, and the other was snapped further back in the block, and did some damage around the hole.

Debris everyware

But it never actually jumped timing by the grace of god.

What looks like what happened was:
The missing bracket bolts snapped, and fell out, getting caught in the accessory belt, damaging the harmonic balancer grooves, and the PS pump grooves.

So my question is: how tf does the bracket bolts snap? They were torqued to spec, and I mean there's three of them, how did they all snap. I'm assuming that one snapped first and the stress caused the rest to go with it.

Now my theory of what happened: the bolts have been in and out of 3 different motors, two of which blew up. They are only grade 6. My thought process is that the bolts have been torqued so many times, and experienced so much heat in their lives, that they decided to take a shit. One let go causing a chain reaction to take out the other two bolts, and everything else followed. The reason it didn't jump timing is pure luck.

Update: I got all three broken bolts out, big blessing there. The MATCO remover kit is the stuff. Worth the $300 bucks.

If anyone has any other ideas/theories, drop them below, I'm curious and mindblown. This is the first time this has ever happened in my years of building nearly 35 Subarus, let alone one with a brand new motor.

This was on my personal car: not a customer of any kind I don't do that. Just build Subarus for me, close friends and my family.

Hey, I’m a relatively new owner of 2022 wrx. I was wondering what you guys is the best way to clean the intercooler and directions as to how since I can’t seem to find a good video on it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!