Got mine today from the dealer.
My dream car for the last 10 years. Now it‘s mine! I‘m sooo happy! 😍 it‘s a 2020 Final Edition.

Love this thing SO MUCH 😭😭😭 It’s everything I’d ever dreamed owning a sports car to be and more! It’s fun, handles so well and never ceases to put a smile on my face. Today I took it out for an extended drive (after I got out of work early for it being my birthday). And I got a chance to take some awesome photos with the colors of Autumn as a backdrop 💛🍁💛🍁

Just wanna know if any one has recommendations on wheel spacers for the 18in trd wheels

Forgot to add the wheels are staggered
Front 18x7 +35
Rear 18x7.5 +35

I’ve been wanting to do this forever, still in the tuning process but holy is this car way cooler

I know this is a silly question but, have anyone bought something from 86Garage on FBmarketplace? I'm interested in buying something but as a non-US resident I have to find a way around with payment and obviously protecting myself and my money. I know this might not be the place to ask this kind of questions, but it's a store where they only sell 86/BRZ parts, so we might as well have found someone who sells parts for chip.

PD: Yes i know the basic: If it's too good to be true, it probably isn't

2013 frs auto, 80k miles. Car drives fine, no loss in power, no slipping gears, but at low speeds the car jerks the first two gears. Also, with the link below it shows a weird rumble when going into reverse. Can anyone pinpoint if it’s my transmission or engine mounts going bad or i just need to flush my ATF.

link for video: https://streamable.com/zwvp68

www.ma86club.com

Alright fellas, I need some assistance. I saw my favorite wheels for this platform, the classic TE37 in gunmetal gloss, on marketplace, and with minimal research, scooped them up. Yesterday I got to test fitting them, and realized there is substantial rubbing.

The wheel is a 18x9.5+45, sitting on a 255/40/18 tire. Now, I’d read online you could get away with this fitment, albeit with very close tolerances. I don’t know if it’s my coils, or what the case is, but I cannot. The rear actually clears fairly well, may need to push in the emergency brake bracket a couple mm, but the front rubs in two places: forward of the strut, on the inboard plastic liner (not the wheel well liner.), and on the pinch weld box. I’ve been recommended on some forums to push it out with spacers and extended control arms in the front. This is an idea I’m willing to entertain, but being that this is kind of an autocross/light track focused build, I am hoping to not have to go full stance and hover around -2 in the front, so, if I could get some help with math, or hear from someone who’s gone a similar route. How much would I need to push her out to get the right fitment? Or, am I so royally fucked on account of the weight, size, and torque loss, I’m better cutting my losses, trying to sell the wheels (as opposed to dumping more money into a full new set of tires) and going with a smaller spec?

I’m also open to hearing how I’m delusional and an idiot. Let me know! And thanks so much!

Guys I already have a pair of the “parts geek” rear hubs. I have a pair of DBA rear dual-drill rotors on the way… and next month I’m pulling the trigger on the gktech front hubs with front rotors…

Hear is my question- should I just get the gktech rear hubs to match or stick with my cheap partsgeek hubs? I can still return them at this point as all my parts for the project aren’t even here yet.

What would you guys do?

I righty tighty'd when I should've left loosey'd and completely fucked the steering column studs, I tried to remove the nuts without damaging the threads but botched it through a combination of chisel, and failed nut separator, but ended up using a carbide blade to cut them loose, left side didn't survive the torque and sheered in half. I am fully aware I'm an idiot but would really like some ideas on how to fix this. I noticed a little play in the studs so I was thinking they were removable much like header studs. Haven't touched them yet but was considering running a thread die to try and cut the grooves back in. If the studs are welded I'm kinda fucked in general but would appreciate any help. Pic for reference.

Tldr; studs are fucked, what are my options

I was recently installing an aftermarket reverse lockout and accidentally put it back in neutral before putting the pin back in.

If that does happen to you, you have to do about 90% of the removal steps of the shifter to lift the reverse lockout back for you to insert the pin.

The video below was what I followed up until I removed the rubber boot.

https://youtu.be/FWGxeB0fbEY&t=22

Hope it helps your day as much as it helped mine.

When I bought my 2013 FRS in June it came with this aftermarket handle on the parking brake that had broken off it's base and was just freely spinning on the lever. I had to remove it because it was preventing me from releasing the brake and it just did not look great. Since then I've been rocking the lever being a completely bare piece of metal which was fine for a while but I'm finally looking for a new handle. I've been trying to find the OEM piece or atleast something that looks like the OEM handle but every handle I've found is either a fully metal piece or it's something carbon fiber and I'm getting tired if seeing just those 2 options. Is there any like online store or forms or something that offers something that is sort of like what I'm looking for? I've tried going on ebay and to get that handle I actually have to purchase the whole parking brake lever mechanism and it's really just not worth the trouble. I'd also like to look for some other minor intior mods as well like changing the gear shifter knob to something else but I have the same problem.

it doesn't happen every time and goes away when i drive or go over 1k rpm. the car is a 2013 and has 124k miles, automatic. video is in comments.

Looking at buying my first manual (need something to commute to work but wanting a fun daily). I was looking at these cars a couple years ago but just never pulled the trigger at the time as it was a want and not a need (so I just borrowed the families automatic 2004 Matrix XR to save money)

Found 3 that are relatively close that I'm considering atm. Thoughts on these ones or recommendations?

First two are both BRZ limited trims. Third is a FRS

First one is a 2017 with 62,000km for $19,800 CAD. Should be a clean title and from what I can tell its completely stock. This is the one that interests me the most between the two, however it also is at the absolute limit of my budget (originally was looking for a $10K car. Only willing to stretch to 20K because its the car I was originally wanting but it is a big stretch). This one is being sold by a Subaru dealership. Edit: Got the carfax for this one. And its had 1 collision, $10k claim to to the right rear corner >_<

Second is a 2015 for $15,000 CAD. It has 160,000km on the body with a brand new rebuilt engine, also a clean title. Had a couple mods, Crawford Exhaust, sway bar links as well as different rims. Previous owner also looks like they wrapped the interior in blue vinyl which im personally not a fan of at all (makes interior look a lot more tacky for my personal tastes). This one is a private sale and also is closer to my original budget tho. Worth mentioning the engine rebuild was done by the current owner (hes a tech and does all the service himself plus rebuilds engines as a hobby).

Third is a rebuild title. Asked about the details and supposedly was just cosmetic damage (dents and scratches all around the car). Its being sold by the shop that did the rebuild (auto body shop from what I can tell.) 2015 Scion with 137,000km for $11,700 CAD.

Any tips and tricks to removing the ignition coil to the rear of the car? It's against the firewall and so I only have a really narrow amount of working room. I can manage to remove the bolt, im just struggling to manoeuvre the coil out 😬

I'm trying to save a bit of money in labour and don't mind spending a few hours tinkering ☺️

Wanted to make this post as I just recently threw these Gram lights on the car. This is the closest the spokes will get to the calipers and using a feeler gauge. I got a maximum of .386mm of clearance. On the ft86 wheel clearance forum it states these clear, but you want might want 3mm spacer. I don’t think it’s a might, definitely more of a must if you plan on doing anything more than just driving your car to work. So if you have an 86 or BRZ with the brembos and you’re looking at some 17x9 +38 57CRs go ahead and buy the 3mm spacers. I did preemptively when I ordered the wheels just in case and I’m glad I did. Hope this helps someone down the road as there wasn’t a picture online I could find of how close the wheel actually gets to the calipers in the front.

Hey all from down under, just had a general question about exhaust setup and was wondering if anyone has had the same ones im planning to swap to.

So far, im running uel headers from psr and paired with a full 2.5 inch system from varex. However, its way too raspy and trumpet for me so i was thinking of swapping to the Empire Exhaust single exit + resonated mid pipe (might be aus only).

Just wondering if anyone has had this setup and has any input about it. Thanks

former owner installed coolant cooling (I am not good at English) or sth oil cooler on the vehicle. And now I installed ones which allows air to do the job. Is the coolant thing worth keeping its place? I am wondering because the coolant thing is leaking every 2k kilometers even if I lock it well.