I’ve been wanting to do this forever, still in the tuning process but holy is this car way cooler

I righty tighty'd when I should've left loosey'd and completely fucked the steering column studs, I tried to remove the nuts without damaging the threads but botched it through a combination of chisel, and failed nut separator, but ended up using a carbide blade to cut them loose, left side didn't survive the torque and sheered in half. I am fully aware I'm an idiot but would really like some ideas on how to fix this. I noticed a little play in the studs so I was thinking they were removable much like header studs. Haven't touched them yet but was considering running a thread die to try and cut the grooves back in. If the studs are welded I'm kinda fucked in general but would appreciate any help. Pic for reference.

Tldr; studs are fucked, what are my options

I was recently installing an aftermarket reverse lockout and accidentally put it back in neutral before putting the pin back in.

If that does happen to you, you have to do about 90% of the removal steps of the shifter to lift the reverse lockout back for you to insert the pin.

The video below was what I followed up until I removed the rubber boot.

https://youtu.be/FWGxeB0fbEY&t=22

Hope it helps your day as much as it helped mine.

Guys I already have a pair of the “parts geek” rear hubs. I have a pair of DBA rear dual-drill rotors on the way… and next month I’m pulling the trigger on the gktech front hubs with front rotors…

Hear is my question- should I just get the gktech rear hubs to match or stick with my cheap partsgeek hubs? I can still return them at this point as all my parts for the project aren’t even here yet.

What would you guys do?

When I bought my 2013 FRS in June it came with this aftermarket handle on the parking brake that had broken off it's base and was just freely spinning on the lever. I had to remove it because it was preventing me from releasing the brake and it just did not look great. Since then I've been rocking the lever being a completely bare piece of metal which was fine for a while but I'm finally looking for a new handle. I've been trying to find the OEM piece or atleast something that looks like the OEM handle but every handle I've found is either a fully metal piece or it's something carbon fiber and I'm getting tired if seeing just those 2 options. Is there any like online store or forms or something that offers something that is sort of like what I'm looking for? I've tried going on ebay and to get that handle I actually have to purchase the whole parking brake lever mechanism and it's really just not worth the trouble. I'd also like to look for some other minor intior mods as well like changing the gear shifter knob to something else but I have the same problem.

it doesn't happen every time and goes away when i drive or go over 1k rpm. the car is a 2013 and has 124k miles, automatic. video is in comments.

Any tips and tricks to removing the ignition coil to the rear of the car? It's against the firewall and so I only have a really narrow amount of working room. I can manage to remove the bolt, im just struggling to manoeuvre the coil out 😬

I'm trying to save a bit of money in labour and don't mind spending a few hours tinkering ☺️

Looking at buying my first manual (need something to commute to work but wanting a fun daily). I was looking at these cars a couple years ago but just never pulled the trigger at the time as it was a want and not a need (so I just borrowed the families automatic 2004 Matrix XR to save money)

Found 3 that are relatively close that I'm considering atm. Thoughts on these ones or recommendations?

First two are both BRZ limited trims. Third is a FRS

First one is a 2017 with 62,000km for $19,800 CAD. Should be a clean title and from what I can tell its completely stock. This is the one that interests me the most between the two, however it also is at the absolute limit of my budget (originally was looking for a $10K car. Only willing to stretch to 20K because its the car I was originally wanting but it is a big stretch). This one is being sold by a Subaru dealership. Edit: Got the carfax for this one. And its had 1 collision, $10k claim to to the right rear corner >_<

Second is a 2015 for $15,000 CAD. It has 160,000km on the body with a brand new rebuilt engine, also a clean title. Had a couple mods, Crawford Exhaust, sway bar links as well as different rims. Previous owner also looks like they wrapped the interior in blue vinyl which im personally not a fan of at all (makes interior look a lot more tacky for my personal tastes). This one is a private sale and also is closer to my original budget tho. Worth mentioning the engine rebuild was done by the current owner (hes a tech and does all the service himself plus rebuilds engines as a hobby).

Third is a rebuild title. Asked about the details and supposedly was just cosmetic damage (dents and scratches all around the car). Its being sold by the shop that did the rebuild (auto body shop from what I can tell.) 2015 Scion with 137,000km for $11,700 CAD.

Wanted to make this post as I just recently threw these Gram lights on the car. This is the closest the spokes will get to the calipers and using a feeler gauge. I got a maximum of .386mm of clearance. On the ft86 wheel clearance forum it states these clear, but you want might want 3mm spacer. I don’t think it’s a might, definitely more of a must if you plan on doing anything more than just driving your car to work. So if you have an 86 or BRZ with the brembos and you’re looking at some 17x9 +38 57CRs go ahead and buy the 3mm spacers. I did preemptively when I ordered the wheels just in case and I’m glad I did. Hope this helps someone down the road as there wasn’t a picture online I could find of how close the wheel actually gets to the calipers in the front.

Hey all from down under, just had a general question about exhaust setup and was wondering if anyone has had the same ones im planning to swap to.

So far, im running uel headers from psr and paired with a full 2.5 inch system from varex. However, its way too raspy and trumpet for me so i was thinking of swapping to the Empire Exhaust single exit + resonated mid pipe (might be aus only).

Just wondering if anyone has had this setup and has any input about it. Thanks

former owner installed coolant cooling (I am not good at English) or sth oil cooler on the vehicle. And now I installed ones which allows air to do the job. Is the coolant thing worth keeping its place? I am wondering because the coolant thing is leaking every 2k kilometers even if I lock it well.

I just got an open flash tablet cause I’m planning on putting headers on my car eventually but a e85 tune would make a crazy amount of power on my stock car. I was thinking that I just test the ethanol each time I fill up and if it’s above e70 it’s fine. The tune Alr assumes ur probably not gonna use straight e85 since it’s gonna be diluted a lil with ur 93 octane but after u fill it up a second time it should be close to around e80 and the tune accounts for that. What do u think

Whenever I fill up, I usually get 91, however, 94 is always a couple cents cheaper. Is there any difference between getting 91 vs 94? I do understand Canada uses a similar system to the US.

Pretty satisfied with my exterior and looking to start blowing money on the inside and want some inspiration.

Both my phone and tablet are connected to same WiFi and it takes lik 10 min download firmware then says this?? This isint at the writing process yet and my key isint inserted it’s just downloading shit into the device but it keeps failing. If anyone knows what’s wrong lmk

I’ve been waiting about 5 months for the replacement motor from the company that supplied the original replacement and they’ve done send finally sent one the wrong variant and now I’ve been waiting another couple weeks for them to come pickup the one they send and deliver the proper one
For those unaware the fa20 s20 is its N.A. motor found in the ft86 community
And the e20 is its turbocharged wrx counterpart

Have not been given too much context from the shop yet, but upon tearing down my engine they found that a spark plug exploded and caused quite a bit of damage that resulted in knocking.

Would love to hear some additional questions I should ask the shop about this.

So for all the people saying I had oil issues or don’t know how to take care of the car, explain that one lol.

Either way, shop quoted $30,000 for a full rebuild, forged internals and a works stage 2 turbo kit. After hearing this price I am debating just throwing a new stock motor in, and buying another fun platform in the next few years.

Happy to hear anyone else’s thoughts.