Tulsa, OK, yesterday.

Thinking of adding more mods, not sure what yet though, any thoughts?

Picked up some cheap skirts and a front lip recently, got them installed today!
Planned next: 18" wheels and an axel back.

Hey new to Reddit not really sure how this works lol but I have a supercharged 2024 gr86 for sale, can run off e85 or 91 and makes ~400 wheel. For more details feel free to hit me up. Bought it brand new for $38k, and have put around $20k in upgrades. I’m selling it for around $40k but I’m negotiable on price. Runs flawlessly, only selling because I have my eyes set on a z06

So far this car is hilarious to drive. It's like a go-kart. Super loud cabin and closing the doors feels like a toy, but none of that bothers me. So much fun.

That being said, has anyone had any luck with one of those blu-tooth dongles that allow car play and android auto to work wirelessly?

Do front/rear cameras constantly drain? I leave town for a month or more at a time, so as much as I hate it, I def need some cameras.

Can't wait to hit 1500k miles.

Edit- 2026 Limited

$34,750 plus 200 sales tax and 200 reg and doc fee.

Grrrrr!!!!!

Got a pretty cool picture last night and figured I’d post it here. As always these cars are looking good

I recently installed STI long steering bolts with the Perrin steering lockdown. Because the lockdown took up extra space, the bolt poked through less on the backside of the subframe.

When torquing the nut, the lack of full thread engagement stripped the threads on the end of the STI bolt on the passenger side. Realizing my mistake, I tried to remove the bolt to temporarily swap back to OEM. However, the damaged/mushroomed bolt threads started stripping the inside of the subframe hole on the way out.

I stopped immediately after feeling abnormal resistance and screwed the bolt back in. The bolt had higher resistance going back in.

I'm now stuck with a long STI bolt that has a stripped end that I don't want to take out.

Questions:

1. Is welding the nut onto the stripped section of the bolt a viable option? (I figure I can cut or torch it off later if I ever need to remove the steering rack.)
2. Is there a safer, better way to extract this bolt and clean up the subframe threads?

Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated!

anyone else have what looks like water spots in the glass? tried going over it with some soapy water and a microfiber towel but no luck. they feel like they’re on the outside.. unsure though

Ready for more!

So I’ve decided one my first mods will be coilovers since I want to lower the car 😉 I haven’t lowered a car since high school when the trick was too cut your springs because we were broke and didn’t care about ride quality 🙈

Since I have adult money and can save up if I have too what are some recommendations can you give me. I would still want my ride quality to be decent want to minimize rubbing and would like a clean flush look. I do plan on taking the car on some canyon runs so upgraded handling would be a plus 😄

4th oil change at 12,000 miles. Never had any metal shavings until now. Always used 5w30 with half a quart overfill. Did it finally happen to me? Should I take it to a dealer? It’s still under warranty but I’m worried they won’t warranty it.

Edit: to answer some questions
1. Yes the oil and filter will be sent out to blackstone for lab testing.
2. Using 5W30 and overfilling is how you PREVENT these cars from blowing up when driven hard (which is the whole point of this car), NOT the cause of it. This has been pretty consistently documented and tested and verified for the platform.
3. Yes the car has been tracked, but it’s meticulously taken care of because it’s almost exclusively driven on the track and in the canyons. Already 5 oil changes by 12000 miles.
4. Oil temperature was always monitors and never had overheating issues.

One of the GR Test Drivers just posted this on Twitter.

Absolute noob with 0 mechanical knowledge whatsoever who just survived a track day, currently completely stock - thinking of adding Tein Flex Z with 18x8.5 +45, probably Enkei PF05 with 245/35

Can anyone running a similar setup tell me if I need rear control arms for it to work? Preferably without any trimming or any kind of body modification

If yes, would love to get some control arms recos

This is my daily too so I don't plan to drop the car too low

Hey everyone, im trying to decide between the apexi n1 evo extreme and the fujitsubo A-R.

Anyone have any thoughts on these 2 or any other suggestions?

Posting a tutorial on it is to create an ON/OFF switch for your ASC (active sound control) module since I haven’t found a complete one doing this before. Hopefully this will be helpful for those interested in having something like this.

I wanted to toggle Active Sound Control (ASC) without permanently disabling it. I didn't want to cut factory wires or drill/modify any interior panels, and wanted a small button that blends in rather than a big flashy switch.

I built a removable inline harness for the ASC and connected a small latching ON/OFF button. It cost around $25 in materials (excluding tools, tax, and shipping).

I haven’t decided where I want to mount this yet, but I’m thinking this is a nice discrete spot that I can reach easily while driving and I'll use double sided tape for easy removal.

Harness and Switch Parts List

- TE 1376106-1 connector housing x 1
- TE 1318386-1 connector housing x 1
- TE 1376109-1 male terminals x 8 needed (recommend buying double in case you are new to crimping like me)
- TE 1123343-1 female terminals x 8 needed (recommend buying double in case you are new to crimping like me)
- 22 AWG stranded automotive wire
- Small MUQIDA latching ON/OFF button

Tools

- Open-barrel crimper

- wire stripper/cutter

- trim-removal tool.

Optional but handy:

- Soldering iron (I soldered my switch to the harness connections but you can use your wire connector of choice)

- Multimeter (I recommend a multimeter for checking the harness connections and troubleshooting)

- Terminal pin ejector tool (incase you mess up the pin position)

Instructions

1. Building the Harness

Cut 7 equalish length wires and crimp a male and a female terminal on each end. I recommend watching some youtube videos on how to crimp, because I did mine all wrong the first time and wasted 16 pins (hence the recommendation to buy extra). This was honestly the hardest part to get right.

Then connect the wires into the harness, with the male side into the male harness, and female side into the female harness. Run pins 1, 3, 4, 9, 11, 12, and 16 straight through, matching pin numbers into the connectors. If you don’t know how to do this, there might be some youtube videos online, but there is a locking tab in the middle of each connector that you have to raise by 2mm in order to insert the wires.

Route pin 15 (ASC speaker negative) through the two-wire ON/OFF button. I soldered the wires and insulated the joints between the harness and the button. Optionally check with the multi meter to make sure all connections are good. Follow the molded cavity numbers in the picture below, not the apparent left/right positions. Male and female housings are mirrored.

2. Dash Removal

Remove the passenger-side dash end panel and lower the glovebox. Plenty of videos online on how to remove the dash end panel (search “fake sound asc brz gr86 delete”) and glovebox (search “subaru cabin air filter replacement”). The ASC module is behind the passenger dash on the right side.

From those two removals, you should be able to access everything you need for this install. You also have to remove the glovebox damper thing, which is just held on by one clip:

From here, you can unhook the harness easily by reaching in from the right side of the dashboard and pressing down on the clip while pulling down.

3. Connect All The Things

Plug the adapter between the factory connector and ASC module. 

Then route the small switch wherever you want. I just pulled across the bottom of the glove box below the cabin air filter and down the left side of the glove box. And you are done!

Don't want to crimp a whole harness?

Hachi Electronics sells an ASC CAN Adapter for 2022+ BRZ/GR86 starting around $40 that you could splice directly

Credit to DocWalt's 2022 BRZ adapter post for the connector part numbers and the Japanese BRZ ASC switch DIY blog for the installation inspiration.

Disclaimer

This is my first tutorial post and I'm not an expert, so feedback is welcome!

I've been looking online to get a Y58 off a junked/salvaged car and I'm not sure which conditions to prefer and avoid. Nothing has been close to me so im stuck looking at pictures of the cars online. My initial assumptions are that damage closer to where the diff sits the better. So side and rear impacts are less preferable than front-end damage. Obviously the severity of the damage must be taken into account but is there anything else I should be considering or rethinking?

I know this is pretty low miles especially for daily driving but I just happen to live in a really small town (Athens, GA) so it doesn’t take much to get around the whole area plus I live close to work.

I have done 2 track days, dozens of mountain drives, tail of the dragon once, and a couple road trips to Florida in this car. It’s been a fantastic daily and I cant wait for the next however many miles.