Need to order some center caps next.

If anyone wants a flush and free print model for a trunk handle here it is :)
Should work for VA and VB along with the twins.
I also have my first successful print and a couple I can try to send out for free since I’m waiting on a black filament for my VB :)

Today was my last day of my current WRX and Subaru ownership stint. Unfortunately life happens and you need a different car for different needs. I only had it for 10 months but took it all over the midwest. Had an absolute blast. Didn't love it as much as I thought I would, coming from Euro ownership prior. I will be going back to Euro, but maybe I'll return to Subie life eventually. For the time being though, thanks for the memories ✌️

Been back and fourth with the A.I trying to figure this out since there's no real car clubs in my town, here's a summary of where I'm at: (the car is a 2013 completely stock WRS STI) - so yes in advance this is from GPT as a summary as writing out my week long saga would have taken me forever

I'm troubleshooting a rough idle/misfire that is most noticeable on cold start. The engine starts around 1,500–1,600 RPM, then runs increasingly rough as the idle drops.

Codes:

• P0300 – Random/multiple cylinder misfire
• P2441 and P2444 – Secondary air injection system faults

Initial misfire counts during cold start:

• Cylinder 1: 108
• Cylinder 2: 0
• Cylinder 3: 125
• Cylinder 4: 0

Compression test (cold):

• Cylinder 1: 145–150 psi
• Cylinder 2: ~145-151 psi
• Cylinder 3: 150–155 psi
• Cylinder 4: 150-153 psi

Ignition coil swap test:

I swapped the ignition coils from cylinders 2 and 3. On the next cold start, the engine ran very rough, and the misfire counters changed to:

• Cylinder 2: rapidly climbed to 515, with a pending cylinder 2 misfire code
• Cylinder 3: 1
• Cylinders 1 and 4: 0

The original cylinder 3 coil was now installed on cylinder 2. This seems like strong evidence that the original cylinder 3 coil is failing, although I haven't replaced it yet. The cylinder 1 misfire also disappeared during this start, so I'm not sure if that issue is intermittent or related.

I also noticed a strong gasoline smell during the severe misfire.

Other observations:

• The secondary-air codes were present around the same period as the misfire.
• I inspected the piston crowns in cylinders 1 and 3 with a borescope. They looked somewhat sooty but dry, with no obvious damage.
• I haven't measured fuel pressure or confirmed the cause of the secondary-air faults.
• Pulled all the sparkplugs and they look in great shape, they were done 30,000km ago, they're clean / not fouled.

Questions:

1. Would you replace the suspect coil first and then reassess the cylinder 1 misfire?
2. Could the secondary-air system faults plausibly contribute to the original cylinder 1 and 3 misfires, or should I treat them as a separate issue for now?

So ya, should I YOLO a coilpack into this thing and gamble on $133 non returnable part or am I missing something else here? I'd rather ask real people before the A.I sends me on a goose chase with the oil avp valve and everything...

Owned this puppy since 2016 took it from totally stock to 420awhp 400lbs on pump 93 and my best friend owns an evo 9. Here to say don’t build what you don’t love, but man I love this thing. I’ve made life long relationships through this car and. If anyone has questions about the journey I’m down to lend an ear/voice since I’ve been through the wringer with this thing.

Coming up short here and running out of ideas! Side mirror camera isn't working. VA facelift STi (Australia, so rhd).

I've tried lots of google/AI troubleshooting tips and still can't work out what the issue is. So when I change into reverse the side mirror should come on on the MFD (love the feature as it's great for preventing gutter rash), but it isn't appearing. For transparency I have a iDoing headunit which I had in my last car, a VA wrx and the side mirror camera worked perfectly in that car. The iDoing head unit was transferred out from the wrx to the STi when I bought the STi.

Observations and what I've tried:

• When I engage reverse the rear camera comes on on the iDoing so that works perfectly fine.
• When I engage reverse the R comes on on the dashboard so the car ecu knows I'm going in reverse so side camera SHOULD be triggered and come on
• I have tried pulling two dash fuses and leaving them for 15 minutes to remove all power going to the dash/MFD and thinking maybe the MFD software is confused so a reset might work. That didn't fix it.
• I tried going into diagnostic mode on the MFD and the side camera is works and comes up perfectly!! So I know the camera is working and there are no faulty broken wires going from the side mirror camera to the MFD.

So it's just weird. Why would it work on the MFD in diagnostic mode but not in regular use?? I'm confused and can't think what else I can try. Any suggestions as what to try next?

Just picked up this 2014 STI hatch! Ive been wanting a hatch for while now. After about a year of searching, I found the perfect one. 104k miles, 1 owner, almost perfect condition. I am absolutely in love with this car, it has been such a joy to drive and learn manual on. Is there anything y'all suggest I do to it? It has an intake that the previous owner added because the stock one had a hole in it I guess. Not sure if it has a tune. Now that it has 100k miles, what are some necessary maintenance steps I should consider?

I went with some $25 rear spats from eBay because the oem ones are ridiculously expensive, but the ones I got looked extremely glossy. If anyone is looking to get close to matching to an oem lip or side skirts they have I think rustoleum black automotive primer with rustoleum peppercorn on top looks pretty indistinguishable unless you get really close.

Peppercorn is a protective enamel, not sure how well it will actually hold up with the auto primer, but it was $50 in total to make these so 🤷

As title states, my running lights stopped working on the right side. Not sure what’s wrong, maybe led burned out. I had for a year then on may I spliced the turn signals on the right side for 4th brake light, left side is spliced for everything else for it so I’m pretty sure it’s not the 4th brake lights fault. The connectors on the wiring harness for the right hand brake light seems to be shiny and straight.

Any help would be nice, thanks.

Hey guys, located in northern VA. Looks like I need a head gasket, and my local dealership quoted me $8900 which seems high, I’m gonna ask for an itemized quote to see if it includes resurfacing and other “while they’re at its”- but I wanted to know if anyone has had a good experience with shops in the area. I’m not looking for bob shade-tree discount mechanic, but I would like a second quote or two from a couple high quality shops before I pull the trigger. People report spending wildly different amounts online- $1k to $9k. Any real experience you can share? Thanks!!

2015 premium. 119K miles. Obviously need a new one. Where should I start looking?

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice on head gasket sizing for my Subaru EJ207 build.
My engine is being rebuilt with a TOMEI EJ22 stroker kit, which uses a 92.5mm bore.
The current head gasket is a Cometic C4261-040, with a 93mm gasket bore and a thickness of 0.040” (approximately 1.016mm).
However, according to TOMEI’s EJ22 stroker kit specifications, the recommended gasket bore is 93.5mm.
Here’s my concern:
Cylinder bore: 92.5mm
Current gasket bore: 93mm
Bore diameter difference: 0.5mm
Radial clearance on each side, assuming everything is perfectly centered: 0.25mm
With a 93.5mm gasket, the diameter difference would be 1.0mm, giving 0.5mm of radial clearance on each side.
I’m concerned that the 93mm gasket may leave too little clearance around the cylinder bore, especially under high boost, high temperatures, and sustained high-RPM operation.
I understand that the gasket is clamped between the cylinder head and block, and that gasket bore size alone doesn’t determine sealing reliability. However, I want to make sure the gasket’s inner edge and sealing structure are appropriate for this particular setup.
My questions are:
Has anyone run a 93mm head gasket on a 92.5mm bore EJ20/EJ207 without issues over the long term?
Is a 0.25mm radial clearance generally acceptable for this type of engine, or is a 93.5mm gasket the safer choice?
Has anyone experienced head gasket failure, bore-edge damage, or sealing problems caused by an undersized gasket bore?
Would a Cometic 93.5mm gasket or a suitable TOMEI 93.5mm gasket be a better choice for this build?
I’ve had a head gasket leak on a previous engine, so I’m trying to be particularly careful with this rebuild. The engine has not been assembled yet, so I still have the opportunity to change the gasket if necessary.
I’m not trying to second-guess my engine builder without reason. I’d just like to understand the engineering considerations and hear from people with direct experience running similar setups.
Any advice or firsthand experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Quick little “air sucking” sound on start? Should I be worried or normal?
‘21 WRX

My 2015 WRX recently started having this sneezing sound shift around 3000 or 4000 rpm. Moreover whenever I reach 4000 rpm I try to accelerate more it lags with the acceleration. And a sneezing pitch gets higher. Any ideas? I checked my intercooler piping it's tight and sealed. If turbo leak what's the likely culprit?

And is it easy to to access snd fix at home? Thanks

Had to get one in before me and the lads swap over to the winters.

Does anyone know of a aftermarket rear sway bar that can work in the rear as I am looking for something stiffer then the rs update

Looking for an example FA20 WRX with the center console swapped to the STI OEM version with the red stiching? I want to swap this on mine but cant find the part number for just the side pieces. I want to keep my stock WRX bezel and square shifter boot. See pic.

Hit a major milestone today in my 2020 WRX

How we lookin? Plugs have a brownish tip to all of them but the threads are lookin a tad dark. Otherwise id assume pretty healthy.