Rally and street inspired, my daily since 2018

Thank you to my friend Rosario for taking a Pic of my 2 cars before we left for our fall cruise yesterday.

What’s y’all’s experience with cops? Owned my WRX for 2 weeks before getting pulled over.

I have a 2016 WRX.
I need to replace all four Rotors and Pads.
So far they’ve only been replaced with the OEM or equivalent pads and rotors. I want to upgrade them this time.
I’ve looked into the STI Brake conversion but I don’t think I really need it. Just decided to spend that on higher quality rotors and pads.
I daily this car along with occasional spirited driving. Planning to go on proper canyon runs after the upgrade.

So far, I’ve narrowed it down to:
Front Rotors: DBA 4000 Series T3
Rear Rotors: DBA 4000 Series T2

Pads: Hawk HPS 5.0
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF600 DOT 5.1

Does anyone have any other recommendations? Glad to receive inputs and feedback if anyone runs a similar setup.

2021 with 38k miles for $24k engine looks completely untouched just a tomei exhaust on it hopefully it doesn’t get taken before I can get my hands on it 😂

Hey all, I got my new daily about a month ago (9/21) and it spent the last week in the shop for the rear differential. It was making some noise and it turned out that the differential needed to be replaced at 2300 miles. I drive around 3000 miles a month for my job. Has anyone heard of issues with this or am I just that lucky?

Looking for inspo to replace my headlights and fog lights, let me see what you guys got! thanks

PA sunset

So my dad had the car when all the mods were done around 2007-2009, and part of the setup was a COBB access port and this black omni power 3 bar map sensor.

Unfortunately the sensor has started failing making the car basically undrivable though everything else is fine. I've tried to find the same part online but there is an updated red version that's taken the spot for this model and even buying from places that show the black one in the picture ends up being the newer red one when it arrives.

The red one has a different scaling from the black so I can't just change them out without getting a new access port + tune which can't be done anywhere close to me and I'd have to tow the car all the way there.

Does anyone know where I can acquire the older black model for this part (Omni Power 3 Bar Sensor) or know any alternatives that somehow wouldn't require a new tune + accessport?

Was 130 miles short of 100k this morning. So I made an event of it and hit Pikes Peak before they close the summit for the winter

Hey folks, (photo for attention)
I I just had my ‘11 wrx in the shop getting a bunch of work done. I had mentioned that it sounded like my heat shield was rattling and they confirmed that the heat shield on the exhaust manifold is loose and making the noise. They say it’s 4h of labour to fix as they need to drop the manifold out. I am mechanically inclined enough (plus have lift access) to do this myself. My question is do I run no heat shield, oem metal shield, or a good exhaust wrap?
Thanks!

I finished my STi drivetrain swap in my 2018 WRX Limited. Everything went smooth, but my idle rpm is sitting around 550. My WRX was around 750-800 idle. However, when I go into gear and stationary, the rpm’s will raise to 900 and will stay there. When I go back to neutral they go back done. I did an ecu reflash and am relearning the system. Idle is still the same. No engine codes, only code is for P0500, which explains the hill start assist and abs light on the dash. Car drives phenomenal, shifts smoothly into every gear no unusual noise, all parameters and gauges such as boost look good, af learning and correction, etc. I linked a couple videos to show what I’m talking about. I spoke with my tuner and he said the wheel speed sensor MAY be the problem, but he said it shouldn’t be any mechanical error that I did. Maybe it’s from the sti flywheel and sti clutch on the fa20 and idle may be different? Idle looks normal in video for now since it’s not fully warmed up, after driving for a couple mins it idles at 550 in neutral. Any help is appreciated. TIA!

Wut up fam. Is ngk.com reliable for plugs?

Looking at buying a used Subaru. Seller says the original turbo was leaking oil, so 3 weeks ago they replaced it with a brand-new billet turbo and added a Dual Port Blow-Off Valve.

When I asked if it was tuned for the new parts, they said no.

I kinda like the car coz I would like to learn how to drive manual and I’m still not sure if it’s bad move for me as a newbie.

Should I walk away or take a risk?

Subaru Impreza WRX Hatchback 2008

Seller asking for:$6k

Blinker, fog, and low beam headlights are all out on the front passenger side, and low beam headlights on both sides are out. Highbeams work on both sides.

Low beam bulbs were replaced just over a year ago, so it seems really unlikely that it's the bulbs? Checked all fuses listed as light related (6, 7, 14, 15) and visually they looked fine. Need to snag a meter to verify I suppose?

Can't get to all the connections without starting to pull things out, but I don't see anything glaringly obvious with the connectors visible from above.

Where do I go from here? Are there specific connections or assemblies that are my likely targets? How do I test them?

Any help would be much appreciated, I don't really have the budget to take her in right now, but I'm also a novice at all things car related

Well well well, after the debacle with my chosen tuning shop cracking a coil, diagnosing *that* cylinder as having a dead miss, then claiming no responsibility, I decided I shouldn’t trust their compression test readings, either.

The shop alleged I had 136/128/132/127.
Earlier today, I found 135/134/141/140… way different spread and absolute values. It’s an EJ20X with 130,000 miles on it.

How healthy do those numbers look? My shop told me 160psi or over, and I know that could be true to some extent, but I’m also getting the feeling they really didn’t want to work on my car. (They were incredibly unhelpful and rude when I told them a misfire started while at their shop, and that I had BlueDriver logs proving this. They also quoted me a new engine and told me that low compression cannot be fixed.)

Im starting my clutch replacement project today so Im making a post seeking tips for making it the least frustrating job possible.
Im using a 4 post lift and planning to go buy myself a transmission jack.

This is being done on my 2017 WRX

Any words of wisdom, tips, links, tools would be much appreciated

I am between the AWE Touring or Track for an exhaust system. I don’t want much drone, I obviously know the track is a bit louder and I’ve heard it has some drone but that’s fine as long as it’s not like constantly eating at my ears. The Touring sounds cool and I know it advertises less drone, but the Track sounds amazing and I just want to know from anyone with these exhausts is the track really that noisy in the cabin?

I’m mostly concerned with cabin noise, it being loud outside the cabin does not concern me. Let me know.

2015 wrx limited new turbo installed t51r housing

Ok so I use to use Cobb but I no longer am after my Dino I’m open sourced tuned.
I’m expected to gather logs and email him some new ones after the parts I installed but I have no way did actually doing that and the Tactrix cable isn’t available (if anyone hase one I’ll buy that PayPal G&S)
Otherwise what is another way I can log just as good as a Cobb AP or tactrix ?
Please help!

I currently use the manual recommended 5W-30 and have been reading online that 5W-40 is better since it has a higher viscosity rating vs 30 (when engine gets hotter) Currently use penzoil platinum 5W-30 full synthetic any recommendations? Thanks!