​

My wife's check engine light came on at 14k miles, and it threw these three codes: Any guess what could cause it?

Bad coolant temp sensor, maybe, but the codes paired with it are a little bit of a mystery, and German cars aren't my usual area of tinkering.

I'm guessing the databus code was triggered in conjunction with one of the other two. I just don't see any relationship between evap and coolant.

It's going to the dealer to get fixed, as it should still be under warranty. I'm just trying to learn a thing or two here.

I'm so pressed I don't understand my car, she's a 1993 Camaro, she just had 2nd and 4th gear replaced like 3 weeks ago, idk if that's a factory but I'm having I think battery or wire issues.

For the past couple days she's been having a slow start then clicking as if dead but then once I turn her on again she's start, however; she died the other day so we jumped her and brought her home so she could charge, once she was done I started her just fine and let her run for a minute then off again cuz I didn't need to leave. When I did actually leave and start her an hour or so later she was completely dead again!!

I unplugged the battery then plugged it in again and she started just fine. But then today she died, so I charged her, but she died again after 5 minutes, I unplugged her then plugged her in again and still dead. I've had the battery tested a couple months ago and it said it was a good battery, I've tested the voltage to see if it's sending out too much to my car when it off and draining my battery but it send out the correct amount. I don't know what to freaking do, help if you can please😔

Took my car for an oil change at the dealership. They said I also need my wheels realigned, my fuel injectors cleaned, and my climate system cleaned???

My car is a 2026 Kia K5 with 7K miles do I really need these things done?

2005 Mustang GT 4.6L V8.

I daily drive this car, and it runs perfectly fine. No smoke, no check engine light, and no loss of power.

However, after driving about 9 miles (my commute to work), it starts making this weird noise when I'm completely stopped. As soon as I start driving, the noise disappears.

When I bought it, it had almost 2 extra gallons of oil, which caused heavy smoking. I removed the excess oil, and the smoking stopped completely, but the noise is still there.

Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks!

2004 dodge ram 1500 5.7 l v8 hemi 193k miles 4x4 . So new to me truck . Not familiar with ram 1500 . I took it on the freeway for the first time a few days ago. Just got an alignment and new tires was hoping the new tires would fix the bouncing. It does neeed lower ball joints and tie rod ends but would the lower ball joints cause the up and down . I’m planning on doing new shock absorbers because they don’t absorb much of anything

hey guys, i’ve recently noticed that my 2013 Mazda CX-5 is making hissing sound and they’re loud. it’s consistent and at the start it only blow room temperature air, and after few times of turning the ac on and off it will start blowing cold air.
Any idea on what’s happening here? is it because of a leak or just low refrigerant?
Oh, I’m based in Melbourne, Australia so if anyone has shop recommendations for me to visit would be appreciated!

Good day all

I hope someone can help me

I have search high and low, I cant seem to come right with the wiring diagram regarding this alarm system.

I know its a south African company that manufactures them.

I have phoned them and they said, they can not help me because I am not a registered dealer, fitment center.

I phone hyundai they said to bring my car in, sorry I will be doing that they did a horrible job fitting it and just turned the wires in that started pulling loose.

I am a technician (PCB) technician by trade.

I want to redo all the wiring my self and understand if something goes wrong. I have not decided if I want to solder everything in or just crip and build a loom, and do it right.

Please if someone can help or atleast point me in the right direction that would be much appreciated it.

Bouns if I can program a new remote.

If you need any pictures of the alarm module its self i can provide pictures of the pcb and anything you need

Much appreciated and thanks in advanced

2018 Chevy Malibu hybrid. Noise seems to come when she starts driving from a stop but goes away.

I have booked in for a mechanic in 2 days as nothing is open , was just wondering if anyone can help me on what this noise could possibly be ? Cheers
It is a Kia sportage 2014

Hello! Just this morning I took the car out and it gave me no problems at all, now I wanted to drive it out again and the engine seems to be rattling? Car is a 2010 Toyota Prius 1.8-liter 4-cylinder. I'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow but would appreciate any tips here since I don't know much about cars! Only thing that surprises me is that there's no "check engine" light or any warning light whatsoever.

Hope you can help and thanks!

Just curious as I'm going into Heavy Duty after school soon!

Bough car, has no rear lights on passenger side except reverse. Ground good to chassis and at lens connector.
We jumped power from drivers side to passenger side and now full function w perimeter LED, brake and turn, but ONLY if light switch is ON. If light switch is OFF, then lose brake light and turn signal flasher goes into rapid sequence after 2 secs

2005 Mercedes E55

I drove my e55 in the rain, decided to park it for a couple days until the rain went away and when I finally turned her on coldstart after like 4 days of sitting I heard this metal scraping sound coming from what I think is the pulleys took a video quickly before I left . The only odd thing after the coming back home to investigate the noise it was gone…It hasnt came back but I know it will. What can it be?

How to remove the cv please. trying to do the bearings. puller snapped.

Vehicle: 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser Limited, 2.4L 4-cylinder, approximately 188,000 miles.
I’ve been experiencing an intermittent issue where the engine RPM fluctuates significantly, sometimes causing the engine to stall if I don’t give it gas.
In the attached video, I had just started the engine and was deliberately holding the accelerator at a fixed position to maintain approximately 2,000 RPM. My foot was completely steady throughout the fluctuation. Eventually, the RPM stabilized around 2,000 without me changing the throttle position.
Other symptoms I’ve experienced:
Engine occasionally stalls while idling but can restart immediately.
Intermittent jerking and hesitation while driving, particularly around 50–60 MPH.
RPM sometimes drops dramatically during these episodes, with poor acceleration even when pressing the accelerator farther.
Occasionally noticed a gasoline smell during the sputtering episodes.
Previously retrieved diagnostic trouble code P0601 (PCM internal control module memory checksum error).
The radiator, battery, and a few other parts have recently been replaced, although I don’t know whether any of that is related.
I’m trying to diagnose this without blindly replacing expensive parts, particularly the PCM.
Has anyone encountered similar symptoms on a PT Cruiser or another Chrysler 2.4L engine? What components or electrical connections would you recommend testing first, and how would you test them?
Any advice would be appreciated.

I was inspecting my fuel injectors to see if I can find anything as to why I get a lean code and misfire code. The injectors looked fine. Cleaned some gunk and put everything back but the piece in the picture had a small metal o ring that seemed to slip away. I dom’t know how to find what it was or where it went. It seemed to slip in further when I tried to grab it with tweezers. I put everything back anyways and tried starting it but I get a strong gas smell, engine cranks but won’t start. I also changed three spark plug wires before putting everything back. Not sure which it is but could be either. Also an electrical connector to an injector had the plastic snap part break off so i just had to push it in. Idk if that would cause this either. Any help would be greatly appreciated and identifying that metal o ring from the fuel supply manifold assembly would be neat-o (pictures above)
This is a Ford 2004 Freestar 3.9L minivan

Hi, I'm doing a valve-clearance check on my 2015 Yamaha MT-03 (321cc). There are small stones stuck between the cylinder-head cover bolt heads and the surrounding recesses. Do the four cover-bolt holes open into the engine, or are they blind holes? I'm worried debris could fall inside when I remove the bolts. Thanks!

2015 Kia soul has 130k miles. I have to replace the oil every 2k miles or else it completely runs out of oil. What do I do? Does this mean something has to be replaced? No current engine problems

Hello, I just bought a 2013 Mitsubishi RVR at 200,000km ( ~124 000 miles ). I noticed consumption that is around 13L/100km while on the internet consumption is around 7-9L/100km. I did about 150km in 2 days and I'm soon halfway down to gas. I don't understand what can cause excessive consumption like this. If anyone can enlighten me on that. Thank you very much!

My Ford Escape 2017 AWD 2.0 Turbo that I bought brand new is at 171,000 miles now. I always take it in at every 10k for oil change and tire rotations however the last 30k-40k I’m taking it in to repair shops on things that are breaking down on my car.

The last two months my car makes this noise when I come out from a full stop (stop sign, red light) and I go from low or even mph. In the video you can hear this rough noise ontop of my engine when I speed up. FULL VOLUME.

This usually goes on for the first 10-15 minutes of my drive and goes away later when I go from stop to rev back up from a full stop. Sometimes it lasts longer.

Can anyone let me know what this is/causing it. And if it’s immediate concern or something I can worry about another 20k down the line (feels like fixing things at car shops is costing as much as a medical bill now a days…..)

2004 Tacoma Prerunner 3.4L V6 extended cab

My inner tie rods won’t come off my steering rack shaft on both sides, there isn’t a lock washer behind the tie rod so I’m guessing it’s just cranked on with hella locktite. I’ve sprayed penetrants, I’ve wrenched it with all my fuckin might which really torqued the whole steering rack. I rented the green pipe tool from Oreilly’s and tried a breaker bar to a point, hooked it up to a 60v Dewalt impact and it started to tear into the Oreilly’s tool. I don’t really know what else to try, I don’t want to use heat yet because if that doesn’t work I just boiled my grease.