I asked the mechanic to put on new rear brakes and he said he resurfaced the rotors also. Is this what they’re supposed to look like or did he charge me for nothing?

This was siphoned from my tank of my 2025 sorrento HEV. What kind of contamination does this look like? It’s standard 87 pump gas from a newer gas station in Central Florida.

Rebuilding a 1991 Mercedes w124.

It's the joint between the driveshaft shock absorber and the transmission output shaft.

I'm changing the shock abs thats connected to it because it looks worn out but this one doesnt look so bad even if it's 30 years old.

It costs around 80€, it's not too expensive but at the same time it's not cheap and also I don't know if I trust more an OEM from the 90s or a modern day aftermarket.

OEM new is probably super expensive so I'm even more dubious about that.

Box came opened a little, package inside was too like it was dropped on the floor. Are the discs still okay to use? I need them to sort my car literally tomorrow/Sunday so I don't want to return them. Thanks!

I'm curious to know if the level of rust and number of cracks on my rotors are a cause for concern.

Golf Mk4 gti 2001
My best friends son lent me his spare car that he’s been fixing up because he’s lovely and my own car has broke down…but the second I put the key in the door I’ve broken it…
Steps I took:
-pressed key button to unlock car
-passenger door would not open
-I used key stick in drivers door to unlock car again
-I get in car and open passenger door from inside
-alarm goes off
-I turn alarm off with key button
-key in ignition and immobiliser stopping car turning on. (Immobiliser with flashing key symbol)

We’ve tried lots of things this evening but no luck. Only one set of key.
Any and all ideas appreciated!

Edit to say: the dashboard says ‘immobiliser’ every time. And have given it loads of gas.

How to remove the cv please. trying to do the bearings. puller snapped.

Is it smart to use valvoline 's restore and protect oil in a low mileage, older car?

Would it do any harm of i use it on a 2006 Honda civic to save gas and prolong my engine? It has about 140,000 km. My fuel consumption hasn't been the greatest. I've read that vavoline R&P can improve gas mileage, but i think all the reviews were on high mileage vehicles.

Thanks,

Edit: fuel consumption: 14/100km

Edit 2: I see many people change the oil earlier with this oil. Should I change the oil sooner with this oil, or wait for the reminder to come on?

Drove maybe 3 minutes with overfilled oil and it started making weird noises so i pulled over got it towed home. Mechanic drained the oil and said that the motor and the car is completely done for. Just wanna get a second opinion because I’m 600 miles from home and i wanna know exactly what to do next. Any help is appreciated thanks guys.
2008 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4 4cyl

So I’m replacing my ball joints control arms, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar links.
In Texas and all bolts are ruśt free. Soaked all bolts and nuts with PB Blaster before I started and during disassembly.
After removing the cotter pin I couldn’t get the castle nut off of the ball joint. Had to use a wrench. About 1/2” clearance between top of bolt and steering knuckle.

Anyway, removed cotter pin, PB Blasted it and let it soak for at least an hour, blasted it again, even torched it but couldn’t remove it. Now the damn nut is stripped!

I don’t think I can get a nut splitter over the bolt and don’t think it would split the hardened nut anyway? Thought about drilling it but again it’s a black hardened nut. Seems like my only option is to cut it off with an angle grinder?

What do you all think? Thanks

Evap purge valve isn’t stuck. No idea what could be causing this. Charcoal canister recently replaced. Fuel pump has been replaced, recently changed spark plugs. Starts up just fine on cold start, this is after letting it sit for an hour and a half.

2017 volkswagen golf GTI
111k miles
EA888 Gen 3

what would yall do in this situation

Hey everyone, I originally took my 2004 Toyota Camry V6 to the shop to get a vehicle speed sensor replacement to solve this issue but it wasn’t the case.

I ended up replacing the transmission as well and I’m still having this issue where my speedometer doesn’t register and the RPM stays stagnant(sometimes drops and causes my RPM to shoot up)

My mechanic tried to trouble shoot and figure out the problem but could do so..

I was wondering if anyone here would know?

Hi, I took apart my 350 holley to give it a clean and these little silver pins fell out, I have no idea where they belong and does the Holley still function without them . The engine is a 6 cylinder, there were no issues prior to taking it apart, but now the motor won't idle and there is constant black smoke from the exhaust

2005 Mercedes E55

I drove my e55 in the rain, decided to park it for a couple days until the rain went away and when I finally turned her on coldstart after like 4 days of sitting I heard this metal scraping sound coming from what I think is the pulleys took a video quickly before I left . The only odd thing after the coming back home to investigate the noise it was gone…It hasnt came back but I know it will. What can it be?

Vehicle: 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser Limited, 2.4L 4-cylinder, approximately 188,000 miles.
I’ve been experiencing an intermittent issue where the engine RPM fluctuates significantly, sometimes causing the engine to stall if I don’t give it gas.
In the attached video, I had just started the engine and was deliberately holding the accelerator at a fixed position to maintain approximately 2,000 RPM. My foot was completely steady throughout the fluctuation. Eventually, the RPM stabilized around 2,000 without me changing the throttle position.
Other symptoms I’ve experienced:
Engine occasionally stalls while idling but can restart immediately.
Intermittent jerking and hesitation while driving, particularly around 50–60 MPH.
RPM sometimes drops dramatically during these episodes, with poor acceleration even when pressing the accelerator farther.
Occasionally noticed a gasoline smell during the sputtering episodes.
Previously retrieved diagnostic trouble code P0601 (PCM internal control module memory checksum error).
The radiator, battery, and a few other parts have recently been replaced, although I don’t know whether any of that is related.
I’m trying to diagnose this without blindly replacing expensive parts, particularly the PCM.
Has anyone encountered similar symptoms on a PT Cruiser or another Chrysler 2.4L engine? What components or electrical connections would you recommend testing first, and how would you test them?
Any advice would be appreciated.

I was inspecting my fuel injectors to see if I can find anything as to why I get a lean code and misfire code. The injectors looked fine. Cleaned some gunk and put everything back but the piece in the picture had a small metal o ring that seemed to slip away. I dom’t know how to find what it was or where it went. It seemed to slip in further when I tried to grab it with tweezers. I put everything back anyways and tried starting it but I get a strong gas smell, engine cranks but won’t start. I also changed three spark plug wires before putting everything back. Not sure which it is but could be either. Also an electrical connector to an injector had the plastic snap part break off so i just had to push it in. Idk if that would cause this either. Any help would be greatly appreciated and identifying that metal o ring from the fuel supply manifold assembly would be neat-o (pictures above)
This is a Ford 2004 Freestar 3.9L minivan

Hi, I'm doing a valve-clearance check on my 2015 Yamaha MT-03 (321cc). There are small stones stuck between the cylinder-head cover bolt heads and the surrounding recesses. Do the four cover-bolt holes open into the engine, or are they blind holes? I'm worried debris could fall inside when I remove the bolts. Thanks!

2015 Kia soul has 130k miles. I have to replace the oil every 2k miles or else it completely runs out of oil. What do I do? Does this mean something has to be replaced? No current engine problems

(2022 F150) During an oil change inspection, the following was noted:

Recommended service
Control Arm - Upper: found passenger front control arm ball joint bushing torn recommend both front upper control arm replacement and alignment.

It’s an after-market suspension system (BDS).

How urgent of a repair is this? Does it warrant replacing both control arms as suggested by dealer?

Hello, I just bought a 2013 Mitsubishi RVR at 200,000km ( ~124 000 miles ). I noticed consumption that is around 13L/100km while on the internet consumption is around 7-9L/100km. I did about 150km in 2 days and I'm soon halfway down to gas. I don't understand what can cause excessive consumption like this. If anyone can enlighten me on that. Thank you very much!