Nothing better than shooting giant slide film, I really hope they keep this shit in stock, has anyone heard any rumblings of any new slide films / any new emulsions for 120 being developed? I shoot mainly Kodak and the occasional treat of Fuji when I can get it but I want new stuff to play with.

Been shooting digital a few years now, have a Nikon Zf and a Lumix S9, both of which I use to ‘simulate’ different film stocks with community colour profiles.
Thought it was about time to bite the bullet and actually shoot some real film, so I picked up a Canon Sureshot AF7 for £35 from eBay, got the cheapest film I could find (Fomapan) and took it on a walk to test it. Quite happy with how it looks!
I’m off to China next week so I’m planning to get some Gold 200 to take with me and keep this little guy in my pocket the entire trip.

Edit- I’ve already given into the GAS and purchased a cheap Chinon SLR from eBay that hasn’t arrived yet, so I can have control over my focussing when I want to. Anyone have any experience with the CE-4?

(Photo for attention, not my photo)

I started thinking about trying star trail photography with film. What I've read in articles online about it is: 1) 50-100ASA film; 2) widest aperture; 3) don't use a telephoto lens; 4) find location with little to no light pollution.

But I haven't read anywhere about people experimenting with ND filters too, to increase the star trail length (and length of time waiting). Something light, like an ND8.

ND filters are also on my mind because of point 4, light pollution. Looking at https://www.lightpollutionmap.info/ there is nowhere near me that isn't effected by moderate light pollution. So I could try using an ND filter to cut down the ambient glow and keep the star streaking effect. At least, that's my idea.

Has anyone else done star trail photography with film, and have ever even experimented with using an ND filter in conjunction with it?

Hello film shooters! Almost finishing my own DIY Lightmeter project started a few weeks ago based on ESP32 microcontroller and Lux sensor, it reproduced exact exposure as a lightmeter app, The reason for building this project is cost effective and hassle free lightmeter for everyday film shoot.

Key features:

*Aperture priority Mode

*Shutter priority Mode

*True battery indicator

*Auto exposure adjustment depending on Aperture mode/Shutter mode/ISO

If any suggestions, feel free to share.

(satire)
1. Switch the shutter mode to multi
2. Cycle through the exposures until the light meter says EXP
3. Shoot the pic in single exposure mode and shoot
Never need an external light meter again

I have thought about it for years, but it seemed daunting, and expensive, and labor intensive. I finally dug into it on a whim two weeks ago, scratched my thrifty itch with a Kodak Ektar H35 half frame camera, and then discovered the simplicity of Cinestill DF96 developer plus fix. I already have a sous vide, so that got me right to temperature. I assumed my first few rolls would be sacrifices to the learning curve, but if I ignore the lousy exposures that were my and/or the camera’s fault, I’m super tickled with the results.

Currently out of town and wanted to stop into a local camera shop to kill time before a show. Walked out with this cutie. I’m mainly a medium format shooter and have a Canon AE-1 when I don’t feel like lugging a brick around but my photography roots are with Nikon, so I already have the lenses. Couldn’t pass it up!

After spending 12 hours to completely disassemble clean and adjust the shutter, teardown and clean the rangefinder and regrease the focus helicoid, this sophisticated lady (sorry Mr. Ellington) is back to work!

I loaded a roll of Kentmere 400 for a city walk and left 9 frames for tomorrow. I hope I will have some time to develop next evening.

She looks amazing given her age (70) and the price I paid (40$) :)

I'll post some images once developed.

I am using a Canon AE-1. I genuinely don't know how these double exposures happened. I thought this camera model wouldn't let me fire the shutter button twice in a row without winding to the next frame? I've not had these issues before with this camera, and these two were the only examples of it.
How can I prevent this in the future?
Film was Portra 400.

Hi all!

I have a question on how to zone focus with the Nikon 28mm f2.8 AI-S.

I understand the basic usage of zone focus with the colored markings on the lens.

- @ f/5.6: Set the left brown mark to infinity, right brown mark would be at around 2 meters.

- @ f/11: Set left yellow mark to infinity, right yellow mark would be around 1.4 meters.

- @ f/16: Set left blue mark to infinity, right blue mark would be at around 0.8 meters.

- @ f/22: Set left orange mark to infinity, right orange mark would be at would 0.6 meters.

How do I set the zone focus at f/8? There is no colored mark indicating it.

Any tips would be appreciated!!

Thank you

Found this camera stand on facebook marketplace for $350. It’s a Manfrotto Mini Salon 190, they retail for $1700. It’s definitely been used a lot, but it works perfectly and I’ve wanted one for years. The previous owner said she traveled with 3 of these, doing school portraits. Traveling with a camera stand seems wild to me, they’re meant for studios. It’s 6’ tall, weighs at least 75lbs, and is incredibly unwieldy. Just getting it home was quite the task. She modified it a bit, there’s a removable caster for the top, so it can roll around horizontally.

I had the 3-way head already. The camera stand came with a smaller manfrotto 3-way head, but it used a different quick release plate than I have for all my cameras, so I sold it.

I put my 8x10 B&J on it to test it out with some weight. The camera was old army surplus and had several layers of grey lead paint on it. I stripped it and refinished it about 20 years ago, and put new red bellows on it too. I regret not taking before and during photos, it was in rough shape and the restoration took me about a month. There’s a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in that camera. I love it.

I’m so excited to use my new (to me) camera stand, my home studio is almost complete. Just have to finish painting the walls white and hang my seamless backdrop wall mounts.

Got this himatic af2, it's the best camera ever. Everything I get from it looks so good

Went to a film photography festival outside of Barcelona and they had this in the exhibit hall, bought some Acros but I'm not rich enough to buy and develop Velvia...

Bought the Ilford Starter kit to try out to develop the film myself, gotta say it was way easier than I imagined.

All developed by standard times,

• 6min30s for developer
• 1min stop bath
• 4min in the fixer

So some statement I heard was true, "If you can bake by a recipie, you can develop film"

Could definetly recommend to do it by yourself, the process now feels complete instead of sending off the film to a lab.

Harman Red 200, 120 format, shot from my Holga. Very much a sacrificial roll, just some shots of the consumerist hellscape that is the Domain in Austin. I am assuming the fact that it's redscale explains the cyan base.

Learned several things:

• Paterson reels are a bitch to load, at least for 120. Didn't help that redscale films curl around the base rather than the emulsion side. I tried to load emulsion side in for 20 minutes before giving up. And yes, I tried the trick of using another negative as a guide; didn't help.

• Paterson tanks leak. My old stainless tanks never shed a drop once closed up, but getting the lid tight on this Paterson tank defeated me. Little drops of blix everywhere.

• C-41 is nowhere near as scary as I thought. Of course the real test is going to come with rolls I care about.

Once this dries I'll see if any shots are worth sharing (doubt it, but hey).

But...

Not a total disaster! Yay!

I’ve been developing BW film at home for several years. I’ve found that the results are always grainy, whether I’m using 100 speed or 400 speed. I’ve shot Kodak, Kentmere, and Ilford with the same results.

My question is how much can the development process affect how grainy the film turns out?

I use D76 developer stock with no dilution at room temperature. It’s possible the wash/rinse step happens with colder water, but I really try to get around room temperature when I rinse. Also, I scan my film with a Plustek 35mm scanner.

I understand this might just be what film does - especially higher speed films - but I’m curious to know if there are ways to manipulate how grainy the film looks during the development process.

Self portrait with fire, coffee and watercolor.

I haven't had any luck in Taichung and I'll be in Kaohsiung soon. Places that do have film seem to have Fujifilm Superia 200 and 400...

I barely found 1 roll of Vetrokam 400 when I was in Taipei. Looking for HP 5 or similar stock.

I'll be near the center of town where I'm going and mainly taking public transit. Any tips are appreciated 🙏🏻

If anyone shoots chromes on large format or wide panos, what do you use to project your slides?

A light table works fine for 2 or 3 people. Overhead projectors otherwise? I don’t know of any LF projectors.

To be honest I've never shot with a fujifilm camera before, but have heard good things about the discovery, and regardless, I wasn't going to pass this up for 20 bucks. It was pretty cool reading the original owners manual + data printing manual. Threw some batteries in, and works like a charm. Excited to get some shots now 😀

Hi all, I recently got a Samsung Evoca 170 SE from ebay. My first film camera. I ran through one roll of film and no photos came back with any issues. The second roll there are 5 pictures with a light leak, the lab says it was on the negatives too. My film wise cousin suggested the zoom length might have something to do with it so I may test it out at different zoom lengths. Anyone else have other suggestions?

Hey guys, I got my film rolls back after my recent trip to Portugal and I was confronted with those white marks on the left side of the photos. Until now my camera (olympus 35rc) didn't have these kind of problems. Is it simple light leaks? If I zoom in on some of the photos, I can see that it is not totally white but there are some remnants of the original photo.
For context: The film rolls in question are Velvia 50, Cinestill 50D and Kodak Gold 200.
The Velvia was already in the camera because I used it a few months ago in Amsterdam. The white stripes are only in the photo after Amsterdam. I am not sure if it is of any importance with this low ISO but the camera and the rolls went through a CT scanner because I was declined a hand check. Another thing maybe worth mentioning is that there are a (only a few) photos without the white stripe even though the photos before and after had some.
Photos in order:

Out of context: I shot Velvia for the first time and I was amazed by the beautiful colors!

Title says it all really. Recently started shooting film on a 36-year-old Fuji CARDIA Mini Dual P. I know nothing about shooting film or photography in general but thought it might make my photos on my Japan trip look cool.

Anyway, I picked up the camera for quite cheap off eBay and shot a roll roll of film as a test before I went away and had no issues at all.
After shooting three rolls in Japan, however I noticed some strange marks on the frame that always occurred in the exact same place which I deduced to be a light leak. It occurred in around one third of the photos taken with varying severity but always in the same location.
I tried to fix the light leak after buying some 1 mm thick foam and filling where I thought I needed to however after taking the camera to Prague this last week I’ve noticed that the problem seems to have gotten worse and more consistent.

I guess the problem is I can’t really find any manuals or anything about this camera and so I’m trying to fill any sort of hole I can with foam and I don’t really have any experience or knowledge on the matter. I was wondering if anyone out there had the same camera or could give me some general advice on fixing light leaks or maybe this isn’t even a light leak at all?

First picture is before repair, second is after my first repair and third is what I’ve done today. Rest are some shots from Japan and Prague for context.

Any help would really be appreciated.

TLDR; is this a light leak? How do I fix?

Hello, I very recently started shooting color and developped my first two rolls (portra 400) yesterday using a THD cp 2.0 processor and the chemistry that came with it. I intend to later print a few in my darkroom. I never printed ra-4 before, only b&w. My goal is to shoot and develop as many color rolls as possible while in China and try a few different film stocks and then print them in my darkroom when I get back in my home country.

Since I have no prior experience with c41 and color negs, I'd appreciate any critical/technical review of my negatives so that I can improve on prior mistakes. These were shot during a very overcast day.

Thank you, all comments appreciated!

I have a roll of Ektachrome infrared E-4 stored in a freezer that my uncle gave me together with my camera. It is my understanding that the E-4 process is extinct and E-6 will not work. I also understand that it is possible, if I'm lucky, to develop it in c-41 with chemicals for B&W. Is there any lab in Europe that could develop it or should I start learning to develop myself and save it for when I'm confident in my ability to try developing it myself?