Super excited to dive head first into another botomless void. Made a few prints, feels great, lots to learn still.

Hey there,

New to developing black and white. I used XT3 with eco zone fixer. I only had one roll and diluted 1 to 1. What causes a line like this? How do I avoid in the future?

I just mixed up my Xdev 5l kit pouring part A in first into 4l of water, mixed it up, then Part B in with 1l. I was about to start splitting it up and noticed it solidified at the bottom for some reason. I was able to break it up by hand for the most part and get it dissolved again, but not sure why it happened.

I used room temp distilled water, but was in the stone counter so not sure if that made it too cold. Other than that I have no idea what would have caused it.

How long do you usually fix for test strips for evaluation?

I do the full fixing time but it seems to be a waste of time and chemical capacity.

Is 20/30 seconds enough?

I’ve been given a large volume of old Kodak Veribrom and Bromesko papers, some dating back to 1968, most of them probably 70s though.

When I’ve tested them they are very fogged, pretty much completely black when tested at a variety of exposures.

I’ve been doing some initial reading, and looking for yt guides etc, and the main suggestion I’ve come across is to use Benzotriazole or to lith print. At this point I’m not really interested in lith printing.

Has anyone any experience with Benzotriazole on paper this far gone? How much can I expect it to salvage the paper.

My darkroom experience is limited, but I’d love to get these papers used, if not simply because of the monetary saving, there’s probably 500 sheets of varying sizes and types.

I’m in the UK, so if anyone has any recommendations for non extortionate benzo suppliers, that also would be fab.

I’ve attached a photo of the catalogue I’ve made.

Hi,
I developed some Kodak Vision using homebrew ECN-2 developer with ferrycyanide bleach and some frames turned out like this, with some green marks and I have no Ideea why, I washed the film with water between steps like stop, bleach and fix.

Last week I recommended “Way Beyond Monochrome“ and I was happy to see many of you ordered it.

This week I’d like to recommend “Magnum Contact Sheets), a book that’s not only a great joy to read but also an important tutorial that we can all benefit from! (524 pages)

The great photographers from Herni Cartier-Bresson to Robert Capa to Elliott Erwitt show us not only great composition but exactly how they ”work” a scene. Higher, lower, closer, etc until the final negative is selected. It’s difficult to express what a benefit this is for our own work in the darkroom without seeing it for yourself.

And a great story about each artist. Over 440 stories including why some photographers lit their negatives on fire because they felt that the print was the ultimate conclusion of their work or how Robert Capa’s film roll of the landing on the beach on D-Day was ruined except one exposure, his most famous one.

The 2017 published version was it. It’s now out of print so there are only so many copies.

How about you, are you making contact sheets?

Bonjour à tous,

J’ai besoin de votre aide. Je souhaite créer un site permettant de cibler des couleurs précises afin de réaliser des préflashs. Pour l’instant, je vise un site dédié aux agrandisseurs utilisant uniquement la charte Kodak, avec les marques Omega (Chromega), Beseler et LPL (Saunders), car ce sont les plus présentes dans les labos et les self-labs.

Les données que je cherche à récupérer concernent la focale que vous utilisez, les temps d’exposition par bande, l’ouverture de l’objectif ainsi que les réglages des canaux de couleur EN PHOTO POUR FAIRE ANALYSER À CLAUDE.

Donc si avez uen Omega (Chromega), Beseler ou LPL (Saunders), j'ai besoin de vous !

Bien sûr, ces données ne seront pas fiables à 100 % et mériteront d’être testées, car chaque agrandisseur diffère à quelques paramètres près mais ça permet de faire gagner beaucoup de temps et de papier.

Merci d’avance pour votre aide !

Finally found my enlarger, a Beseler 45 that I'll be driving back to Brooklyn from Vermont. Any tips on transporting it safely in my suburu forester? Blankets? Bubble wrap?

I converted an old canning cellar in my basement to a darkroom a few weeks ago and have been learning the ropes. This process is so insanely rewarding to me.

I’ve been lurking on this sub to pick up advice as I go and I’m so appreciative of all the knowledge that’s out there.

Phone pic of the pre-wash bath from this morning because I was feeling pretty dialed in for once.

Once I get running water down there I’ll be unstoppable lol

Hi people!

I never thought to ask- is anyone in NJ (preferably northern NJ) interested in mentoring? I know what im doing in the darkroom but I want to get to the next level so I can improve my skills teaching it as the years go on. Im always looking to improve! Let me know!

I have developed a FOMAPAN 400 action at home with a brand new can of Rollei supergrain. It came out emerald green.

Edit: It was a loading issue -_-

I’m pretty glad with how this one came out any feedback would be nice

clarification: using ra-4 in a camera as a negative and then printing or scanning to see the positive results.

i never seen (or remember) the results of this and the closest thing is the reversal for ra-4 either as a direct positive or (sometimes) for slide printing.

These are pictures (so Wikipedia claims) of William Faulkner in 1924. I find them really cool looking. Is this look achieved largely by printing (dodging and burning?). It looks so similar to art done with charcoal.

Reading my first Faulkner novel and so was looking him up.

Hello, I am interested in doing the RA-4 reversal process, and I have done a lot ofregular RA-4 printing using the Bellini RA-4 kit. I use a Jobo agitator set up, and single use my chemicals. I can’t seem to find any reliable temperature or time numbers for the dektol step, nor can I find color channel info for this process. Do y’all know how to do it or know of any resources I could use for this process?

Thanks

Hello, I very recently started shooting color and developped my first two rolls (portra 400) yesterday using a THD cp 2.0 processor and the chemistry that came with it. I intend to later print a few in my darkroom. I never printed ra-4 before, only b&w. My goal is to shoot and develop as many color rolls as possible while in China and try a few different film stocks and then print them in my darkroom when I get back in my home country.

Since I have no prior experience with c41 and color negs, I'd appreciate any critical/technical review of my negatives so that I can improve on prior mistakes. These were shot during a very overcast day.

Thank you, all comments appreciated!

I recently picked up a vintage Kodak Color Thermometer (CAT 179 7398), but it looks like some of the liquid has separated and become trapped at the very top of the glass tube, above the 50°C marking.

The main column seems to work normally except for the fact that the reading is off by the amount that seems to be trapped at the top. The liquid at the top doesn’t move at all if I heat or cool the thermometer.

I’ve tried tapping the thermometer and swinging it to create centrifugal force, without success.

I was considering using an electric kettle to gradually increase the temperature and hopefully reconnect the liquid columns, but I’m scared it will blow up because there is no extra space for the air to expand at the top at all.

Has anyone dealt with this before or successfully repaired one of these Kodak thermometers? Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks!!

*mostly working :) some quirks ...

Hi guys! I’m starting to convert my laundry space into a dark room and I was wondering how people create good ventilation in an enclosed area that is supposed to be light tight? Thanks in advance !

Hello!

I used to develop black and white 35 mm film at home, it's been awhile, but I am still fairly comfortable with the whole process. I recently shot on a Keystone 106 everflash with black and white 110 film. I am hoping to develop the roll at home. I already got a reel suitable for 110 film that fits into my patterson tank and am all stocked up on my developing products and tools. My question is about the ratios of product to water, temperatures (still a standard 68 degrees?) and times. I have researched, but I keep getting conflicting answers, so here I am! Below I have written out which products I am using, and I would love for someone to give me some solid answers.

Kodak HC-110 Developer
Kodak Stop Bath
Ilford Rapid Fixer
Kodak Photo-Flo 200

Also, if anyone has any other tips, that would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Actually, most of my prints are NSFW. As far as I understand, I should probably look for a different subreddit to post them, right?

I was wondering what kind of paper would be best for achieving this look. I’m particularly drawn to rough, textured surfaces rather than smooth paper.
My university has a darkroom with everything needed for traditional black-and-white printing, and I’d love to experiment with different techniques to achieve this dreamy, otherworldly, almost faded and vintage-looking aesthetic.
I’m also curious about alternative processes like lith printing and kallitype, but I’m still a beginner when it comes to these techniques.
Does anyone have any recommendations for paper types, printing techniques, or experiments I should try? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!