Hi all,

First and foremost because as an active member here - I'm not selling anything (the app is free, no ads, no data selling) and not AI-slop.

I travel a lot, usually with more film cameras than I actually need. I also love visiting little independent film shops wherever I go.

But finding them can be a pain. I'd end up digging through old Reddit threads, Google Maps, and random websites trying to figure out where I could buy film or get a few rolls developed. Eventually I started making my own lists on Google Maps.

One thing led to another, and I ended up creating Find Film:
https://findfilm.dev

It's a directory of film shops and labs, with things like developing prices, turnaround times, and what film they carry. We're adding cities one at a time, researching shops individually and reaching out to them to verify information when we can.

I'm lucky enough to have my company backing the project, so we can put the resources into building and maintaining it without charging photographers or shops anything.

Anyway, I mostly just wanted to share it with fellow film photographers. It's still growing, and I'd genuinely love to hear what you think. Especially if there are cities we should add, shops we're missing, or things that would make it more useful.

EDIT: As someone who has built websites and apps for ~15 years, I know the expectation now is "if something is new, it must be AI" but I try to be as transparent as possible with what tools are used and how. I had a problem and wanted to solve it and share it with other film photographers while helping the small film shops I've met along the way. Do with that what you will.

Hi guys, recently got some dinos of analog from estate sale. From a couple of 35mm to few 120’s now here in past year, feel like I should slow down on my new hobby of shooting and collecting film cameras. Unfortunately may not be able to keep them all. Would love to keep one and possibly test them all to maximize a resale value. Will appreciate any advice or recommendations, what to look out for, potential value and which one would you keep assuming they all working.
Much thanks 🙏🏻

This is photography by Davide Sorrenti, and I’m wondering if there’s certain film stocks that are better for this kind of moody dark style of photography. Any advice is welcomed thank you .

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that doesn't look mint. I cleaned it with zeiss lens cleaner, and it doesn't come off, meaning it's on the inside. A quick Google search tells me it's balsam separation, which the ad specifically said it didn't have.

I take google searches and ai with a grain of salt, but I know that it aint mint. I guess I'll just have to return it?

Hi all.
Just got my 35mm film scans back and I am really disappointed.
So many weird foggy/halo spots on my pics.

Shot on an old Olympus stylus infinity. It does not handle low light particularly well (sometimes things are less detailed and the film quality is more noticeable) but I have never ever had my photos be this severely messed up in my 3 years of shooting with this camera.

Is it broken- like light leakage maybe? Bad roll of film? Tried out a new developing place in my city- did they screw up?

If anyone has seen something similar to this or had a similar experience please let me know. I know the photos can likely not be fixed but just to avoid in the future.

I’ll include the messed up pics along with some of the better ones I’ve taken on previous rolls in similar lighting for reference

To be honest I've never shot with a fujifilm camera before, but have heard good things about the discovery, and regardless, I wasn't going to pass this up for 20 bucks. It was pretty cool reading the original owners manual + data printing manual. Threw some batteries in, and works like a charm. Excited to get some shots now 😀

Hey guys, I got my film rolls back after my recent trip to Portugal and I was confronted with those white marks on the left side of the photos. Until now my camera (olympus 35rc) didn't have these kind of problems. Is it simple light leaks? If I zoom in on some of the photos, I can see that it is not totally white but there are some remnants of the original photo.
For context: The film rolls in question are Velvia 50, Cinestill 50D and Kodak Gold 200.
The Velvia was already in the camera because I used it a few months ago in Amsterdam. The white stripes are only in the photo after Amsterdam. I am not sure if it is of any importance with this low ISO but the camera and the rolls went through a CT scanner because I was declined a hand check. Another thing maybe worth mentioning is that there are a (only a few) photos without the white stripe even though the photos before and after had some.
Photos in order:

Out of context: I shot Velvia for the first time and I was amazed by the beautiful colors!

Bought this canon VI-L (originally a canon P on the listing) and it came like this. could the curtains be mounted backwards? on the second picture, the shutter is open (ive set it to bulb mode to take the picture)

I recently got a Mamiyaflex C2 and to test it out I shot a roll of Fomapan 400. As I went though the roll I noticed that the advance knob wouldn't always stop with the number in the red window. It was sometimes a little before the number or a little after. This has led to inconsistently spaced frames on the film with the 2 closest overlapping slightly. What can I do about this? I did make sure to align the start mark when loading.

Bonjour à tous,

J’ai besoin de votre aide. Je souhaite créer un site permettant de cibler des couleurs précises afin de réaliser des préflashs. Pour l’instant, je vise un site dédié aux agrandisseurs utilisant uniquement la charte Kodak, avec les marques Omega (Chromega), Beseler et LPL (Saunders), car ce sont les plus présentes dans les labos et les self-labs.

Les données que je cherche à récupérer concernent la focale que vous utilisez, les temps d’exposition par bande, l’ouverture de l’objectif ainsi que les réglages des canaux de couleur EN PHOTO POUR FAIRE ANALYSER À CLAUDE.

Donc si avez uen Omega (Chromega), Beseler ou LPL (Saunders), j'ai besoin de vous !

Bien sûr, ces données ne seront pas fiables à 100 % et mériteront d’être testées, car chaque agrandisseur diffère à quelques paramètres près mais ça permet de faire gagner beaucoup de temps et de papier.

Merci d’avance pour votre aide !

Just got my first test roll back from my new Mamiya C330s and many of the images are showing this mottling/spotting along the left edge of the frame. This is my first medium format camera so I’m pretty unfamiliar with it in almost all aspects so I have no idea what this could be from. The film? The developing process? The camera itself? I haven’t run into this before with 35mm. Any help is appreciated!

Heya, I'm planning to take my first set of trichromes in the next few days using the lens pictured above. Would leaving image stabilization on mess with anything? Even when shooting with a tripod, I tend to leave it in case of wind or any other disturbance. (canon EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS USM with a rebel 2000 slr if the exact specs matter)

just picked up a c3 with the 80mm and 18cm lenses, and looks like theres some gunk and swirls, as well as a bit of fungus on the 80mm. is there any resources for taking them apart myself, or maybe a reputable shop i can send them off to?

I've been using a Sunpak 422D thyristor flash with my Minolta film cameras for a while, but I've been recently burned in a case when shooting digital with my A7II where a flash would've been nice. My existing sunpak would fry all the electronics in my A7II, so I'm looking for a new flash that has:

• TTL Flash for my Sony E camera,
• auto mode with its own light sensor (i.e. the modern equivalent of a thyristor sensor) that I can use with my film cameras, and ideally
• a swiveling flash head that isn't fixed forward

In past research I've heard Godox is a good brand to look up but I haven't found a specific model that would fit my needs yet. Does anyone else have any recommendations to hit up?

After 2 years of overthinking, I finally took the plunge and bought an Olympus Trip Junior. Any advice for my first roll?

(Note: English is not my first language, so I had this translated)

TL;DR:
I’ve wanted to get into film photography for about two years, but complete decision paralysis kept me from taking action. After a lot of questioning, I finally bought a simple point-and-shoot: an Olympus Trip Junior. I'm looking for tips and advice to make sure my first roll goes well!

The longer story:
I’ve been wanting to try film photography for about two years, but I was so overwhelmed by all the choices that I just froze and did nothing. A few years ago, I bought an Instax Mini, but I almost never use it because it’s too bulky to carry around casually.
The turning point for me was visiting Melissa Auf der Maur’s exhibition in Toronto recently. At the gift shop, I almost impulse-bought the little Lomography Half Frame. I actually posted here for advice at the time and decided to hold off. Someone wisely suggested I take my time and think about what I really wanted out of a camera.
Turns out... I had no idea what I wanted.
When you're a complete beginner and an overthinker like me, it’s hard to know.
All I knew was that I wanted an analog camera that gives standard 4x6 prints. I even briefly considered the Fujifilm Mini Evo just because I loved how it looked (I know, bad reasoning!) and liked the idea of digital shooting with instant prints, but I ended up walking away from that too.
Initially, I thought about getting a camera with manual settings so I could learn to adjust things myself, but I got discouraged by the options and loop-back overthinking. So I went back to the original advice many of you give to beginners: start with a simple, reliable point-and-shoot to get a feel for the process. That’s how I ended up with the Olympus Trip Junior!
Now that I finally have a camera in hand, do you have any tips or advice to help make my very first roll a success? If I fall in love with the process, I’ll look into upgrading down the line.
Thanks for reading!

I have started scanning in my many 100s of 35mm monochrome films but when there is an expanse of white sky - or similarly a continous black area of the negative, the scanner just crops it out of the photo completely. I am not using Silverfast or any other post processing software, just the standard mono setting connected to an elderly Win8.1 machine (not online).

Has anyone noticed this and/or know the solution? It's rather annoying.

Hey there!

I’ve used this kit pretty consistently, but I don’t normally track my rolls and so I’ve run into a few issues with exhausted developer. This time I’ve tracked my rolls and my next two will make it 8. My question is, do you use more than the recommended 8 rolls or do you discard the chemicals and make new ones?

Took a hit during a protest.
Will the camera still work or there Will be light leaks ?

Hi,

the best camera for beginners?
cool and price around 150/200 used?

thanks

Harman Red 200, 120 format, shot from my Holga. Very much a sacrificial roll, just some shots of the consumerist hellscape that is the Domain in Austin. I am assuming the fact that it's redscale explains the cyan base.

Learned several things:

• Paterson reels are a bitch to load, at least for 120. Didn't help that redscale films curl around the base rather than the emulsion side. I tried to load emulsion side in for 20 minutes before giving up. And yes, I tried the trick of using another negative as a guide; didn't help.

• Paterson tanks leak. My old stainless tanks never shed a drop once closed up, but getting the lid tight on this Paterson tank defeated me. Little drops of blix everywhere.

• C-41 is nowhere near as scary as I thought. Of course the real test is going to come with rolls I care about.

Once this dries I'll see if any shots are worth sharing (doubt it, but hey).

But...

Not a total disaster! Yay!

Hi all!

I have a question on how to zone focus with the Nikon 28mm f2.8 AI-S.

I understand the basic usage of zone focus with the colored markings on the lens.

- @ f/5.6: Set the left brown mark to infinity, right brown mark would be at around 2 meters.

- @ f/11: Set left yellow mark to infinity, right yellow mark would be around 1.4 meters.

- @ f/16: Set left blue mark to infinity, right blue mark would be at around 0.8 meters.

- @ f/22: Set left orange mark to infinity, right orange mark would be at would 0.6 meters.

How do I set the zone focus at f/8? There is no colored mark indicating it.

Any tips would be appreciated!!

Thank you

These are my first film photos and post edits. I spent a good while messing around in Lightroom and constantly going back and forth on how I want my image to look. I thought I was satisfied. Two weeks later, I’m going “what was I thinking this looks atrocious” am I overthinking it or did I truly do too much with color grading. Is less more here? Am I over analyzing? I understand, I should figure out my own style but I’m just curious and would like to learn from others. How would you edit these, personally?
(First image is before, second is after)

Also ignore the light leaks, it was a development issue

Hi all,

I’m considering getting a 50mm lens for my Nikon FM-10 because I heard they are good at shooting indoors and with night light, two things I’ve always longed to do but never had a flash for. But I’m seeing a lot of dispute or discourse that a 35mm lens may be better.

Can anyone offer some input for me - I’d say, a very experienced novice - for shooting simple social scenes indoors, or urban night photography? Which lens would be better? 50mm or 35mm? What ISO film should I use? Or is this too difficult of a want for someone like me with limited experience?

For reference, I’ve shot on my FM-10 for about 25 years, and almost exclusively on the original issue Nikkor 35-70mm lens. Outdoors in daylight only. I recently got an 80-210mm telephoto and I love it, but am experimenting with that for now as well.

 Thank you!

Been playing around with it, looks promising, but damn is there a big language barrier in the manual. I don't understand why I need to shoot a calibration image and a blank before every roll (Why can't they be the same thing?)

Anyway, I need to give it some more time (hopefully I can figure it out enough within the trial), but I like that it's totally independent of lightroom.

.trichroma files seem kinda big for what they are, not sure what's going on there.

Hey r/AnalogCommunity

Imad here, the dev behind Pellica, the film photography companion (rolls, exposures, light meter, darkroom timer, lab map). I posted here a while back, a lot of what you said made it into the app, so here's an update.

Someone asked me to show the whole process, from buying film to the scans in your photo library with the metadata. So I made a 3-minute walkthrough: one roll of Portra 400, from the box to the Photos app. (The voice-over and music are AI; the screens are the real app.)

https://pellica.app/how-it-works/

What's new:

- No account needed to start. Open the app and log your first roll; protect it later if you want it on another phone.

- Scans to exposures in one go. Import a roll's scans, they're matched to your frames by file name, you check the preview and you're done. With Pro, export them to Photos with the aperture, shutter, lens, film, date and location written into the files.

- Light meter: hold a reading, see each tone on a zone scale, long-press to pin readings around the scene.

- Darkroom timer on the lock screen (a Live Activity on iPhone, a notification on Android), plus a safelight-red theme.

- Lab map: about 1700 labs and camera shops in 50+ countries. Labs can now claim their page to keep their hours, prices and turnaround up to date.

- Every screen redesigned, and the app now speaks 11 languages.

Coming in the next update: 70mm and 65mm rolls (asked for in this sub!), large-format cameras listed properly for 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10, and the lab list sorted nearest first.

Formats today: 35mm, 120, 110, 4x5, 5x7, 8x10 and instant, plus any film as a custom stock.

Links:

- Website + video: https://pellica.app/how-it-works/

- iOS: https://apps.apple.com/app/id6756510462

- Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.imad.rollify

As always, tell me what's missing or what I got wrong. Most of the app came from conversations like these.

— Imad