Found it while thrifting after quickly doing a physical inspection… Picking up the power cord tomorrow.

In the mean time, I am curious if anyone has recommendations or advice when it comes to using this scanner. I primarily shoot B&W in both 120 and 35mm.

Hello film shooters! Almost finishing my own DIY Lightmeter project started a few weeks ago based on ESP32 microcontroller and Lux sensor, it reproduced exact exposure as a lightmeter app, The reason for building this project is cost effective and hassle free lightmeter for everyday film shoot.

Key features:

*Aperture priority Mode

*Shutter priority Mode

*True battery indicator

*Auto exposure adjustment depending on Aperture mode/Shutter mode/ISO

If any suggestions, feel free to share.

So i recently posted a question whether should i do a video for my tiktok account, as i was scared to take videos of myself. I can admit it was fun and nice experience and i think i wanna continue, i watch other people and try to take their ideas as well to put something my own. I have a few more ideas of what next to post. What yall think?

I recently had the idea to force two AF-1 cameras to only read as a certain iso by taping aluminum foil to the dx pins in the camera (I used gaffers tape to block the correct pins).

I shoot a lot of concert photos in mosh pits and having to modify each cartridge was a huge pain, so this year before a festival I modded two cameras, one to iso 800 and one to iso 1600. This worked so well I modded two more! I left one unmodified incase I need it that way. Now I just grab a camera for the iso I need to shoot at.

It’s far less convenient than being able to set the iso on the camera itself but most venues don’t let in cameras with detachable lenses so this works for me!

I have thought about it for years, but it seemed daunting, and expensive, and labor intensive. I finally dug into it on a whim two weeks ago, scratched my thrifty itch with a Kodak Ektar H35 half frame camera, and then discovered the simplicity of Cinestill DF96 developer plus fix. I already have a sous vide, so that got me right to temperature. I assumed my first few rolls would be sacrifices to the learning curve, but if I ignore the lousy exposures that were my and/or the camera’s fault, I’m super tickled with the results.

Title says it all really. Recently started shooting film on a 36-year-old Fuji CARDIA Mini Dual P. I know nothing about shooting film or photography in general but thought it might make my photos on my Japan trip look cool.

Anyway, I picked up the camera for quite cheap off eBay and shot a roll roll of film as a test before I went away and had no issues at all.
After shooting three rolls in Japan, however I noticed some strange marks on the frame that always occurred in the exact same place which I deduced to be a light leak. It occurred in around one third of the photos taken with varying severity but always in the same location.
I tried to fix the light leak after buying some 1 mm thick foam and filling where I thought I needed to however after taking the camera to Prague this last week I’ve noticed that the problem seems to have gotten worse and more consistent.

I guess the problem is I can’t really find any manuals or anything about this camera and so I’m trying to fill any sort of hole I can with foam and I don’t really have any experience or knowledge on the matter. I was wondering if anyone out there had the same camera or could give me some general advice on fixing light leaks or maybe this isn’t even a light leak at all?

First picture is before repair, second is after my first repair and third is what I’ve done today. Rest are some shots from Japan and Prague for context.

Any help would really be appreciated.

TLDR; is this a light leak? How do I fix?

Hi, this is my first roll ever. The photos seem to me dull and not sharp enough. I also feel the colors aren’t vibrant enough. I used ultramax 400 with a zenith 12 xp equipped with its standard helios 44.
Can u help me get better? Is it an exposure problem because i used light me app for measurements?

I can’t figure out if the shutter works. I found it at the flea market. Not sure how this camera works if any of you can point me in the right direction. Is it worth trying to restore to working condition? Even if not I think it’s a pretty cool shelf piece for $10.

I am using a Canon AE-1. I genuinely don't know how these double exposures happened. I thought this camera model wouldn't let me fire the shutter button twice in a row without winding to the next frame? I've not had these issues before with this camera, and these two were the only examples of it.
How can I prevent this in the future?
Film was Portra 400.

Found this while servicing a Praktica Zoom 901 AF.

I haven't had any luck in Taichung and I'll be in Kaohsiung soon. Places that do have film seem to have Fujifilm Superia 200 and 400...

I barely found 1 roll of Vetrokam 400 when I was in Taipei. Looking for HP 5 or similar stock.

I'll be near the center of town where I'm going and mainly taking public transit. Any tips are appreciated 🙏🏻

I am trying to buy a roll of Agfapan 1000 film from Tori but am not a Finnish citizen. Are there other ways to contact the seller? Or does anyone have Agfapan 1000 lying around they are willing to sell? Appreciate any help or advice. Based in Australia.

No pictures yet but excited to try this one out. Kodak Medalist ii with a 44mm to 49mm step up, black promist 1/4 and a x0.78nisi wide conversion lens i use on my ricoh griiix.

All in all the focal length in 35mm terms comes out to 33.54mm!

Saw this at the pawn shop for what basically converts to $5. Lady couldn’t be bothered said it ‘probably doesn’t work’.
Well I got some bats in and a film roll loaded and so far so good! I have my Sigma 50mm art on her so we’re about to find out 🫡 in two weeks when the film develops

And it works! Shutter speeds are all over the place, but they all fire, the curtain appears to be light-tight, and the mirror flips like it’s supposed to. Big ding in the filter ring of the lens, but it’s a Tessar!

Found this camera stand on facebook marketplace for $350. It’s a Manfrotto Mini Salon 190, they retail for $1700. It’s definitely been used a lot, but it works perfectly and I’ve wanted one for years. The previous owner said she traveled with 3 of these, doing school portraits. Traveling with a camera stand seems wild to me, they’re meant for studios. It’s 6’ tall, weighs at least 75lbs, and is incredibly unwieldy. Just getting it home was quite the task. She modified it a bit, there’s a removable caster for the top, so it can roll around horizontally.

I had the 3-way head already. The camera stand came with a smaller manfrotto 3-way head, but it used a different quick release plate than I have for all my cameras, so I sold it.

I put my 8x10 B&J on it to test it out with some weight. The camera was old army surplus and had several layers of grey lead paint on it. I stripped it and refinished it about 20 years ago, and put new red bellows on it too. I regret not taking before and during photos, it was in rough shape and the restoration took me about a month. There’s a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in that camera. I love it.

I’m so excited to use my new (to me) camera stand, my home studio is almost complete. Just have to finish painting the walls white and hang my seamless backdrop wall mounts.

Picked up a Konica Minolta DiMAGE Scan Dual IV, but it came without the 35mm strip holder (FH-U1). Originals are getting hard to find, so I spent a few weeks designing and 3D printing a replacement in matte PETG.

It took several versions to get right. A few things I learned along the way, in case they help anyone with one of these scanners:

- Emulsion side DOWN on the Dual IV (manual p.18). I first followed a guide for an older model, loaded it emulsion up, and every scan came out mirrored 🙃

- Frame spacing has to be 38.0 mm. At 37.9 mm the frames slowly drift off-centre by frame 6.

- The scanner pulls the holder in with a small gear rack along one edge. If the teeth are even slightly off, it stutters or refuses to load.

- Matte filament is noticeably better than glossy. Fewer reflections near the frame edges.

The final version has a lift-off lid that hooks into a hinge, a wide flared opening so the strip slides in flat from the end, frame numbers 1–6, and small bumps along the edges that hold the lid down without magnets.

Last photo is a scan straight from it, no cropping.

If anyone has a Dual II/III/IV sitting unused because the holder went missing, or has questions about loading film in these, happy to help in the comments.

Ive been "working" at a local film shop and since i already enjoy old soviet cameras i was able to snag these two for nothing. Well the zorki was more like "fix it so it all works and its yours" which i did and also got a pic taken during that

Ive already passed 2 rolls trough the zorki and working on a third. Fed is still waiting on being used

I recently bought some AN glass to better flatten my 120 film for dslr scanning. The glass is from Kaiser Fototechnik #4433 and it contains 2 planes of glass, one of which has one side with an AN finish. I've sandwiched the film as shown in image 4, where no two smooth surfaces touch. But I'm still getting these rings. Does anyone have an idea what could be happening? I've already double-checked that the glass is oriented correctly according to the diagram.

Last week I recommended “Way Beyond Monochrome“ and I was happy to see many of you ordered it.

This week I’d like to recommend “Magnum Contact Sheets), a book that’s not only a great joy to read but also an important tutorial that we can all benefit from! (524 pages)

The great photographers from Herni Cartier-Bresson to Robert Capa to Elliott Erwitt show us not only great composition but exactly how they ”work” a scene. Higher, lower, closer, etc until the final negative is selected. It’s difficult to express what a benefit this is for our own work in the darkroom without seeing it for yourself.

And a great story about each artist. Over 440 stories including why some photographers lit their negatives on fire because they felt that the print was the ultimate conclusion of their work or how Robert Capa’s film roll of the landing on the beach on D-Day was ruined except one exposure, his most famous one.

The 2017 published version was it. It’s now out of print so there are only so many copies.

How about you, are you making contact sheets?

Binnenkort mijn eerste zwart/wit filmrol ontwikkelen. Best spannend moet ik eerlijk zeggen...