Hey r/AnalogCommunity

Imad here, the dev behind Pellica, the film photography companion (rolls, exposures, light meter, darkroom timer, lab map). I posted here a while back, a lot of what you said made it into the app, so here's an update.

Someone asked me to show the whole process, from buying film to the scans in your photo library with the metadata. So I made a 3-minute walkthrough: one roll of Portra 400, from the box to the Photos app. (The voice-over and music are AI; the screens are the real app.)

https://pellica.app/how-it-works/

What's new:

- No account needed to start. Open the app and log your first roll; protect it later if you want it on another phone.

- Scans to exposures in one go. Import a roll's scans, they're matched to your frames by file name, you check the preview and you're done. With Pro, export them to Photos with the aperture, shutter, lens, film, date and location written into the files.

- Light meter: hold a reading, see each tone on a zone scale, long-press to pin readings around the scene.

- Darkroom timer on the lock screen (a Live Activity on iPhone, a notification on Android), plus a safelight-red theme.

- Lab map: about 1700 labs and camera shops in 50+ countries. Labs can now claim their page to keep their hours, prices and turnaround up to date.

- Every screen redesigned, and the app now speaks 11 languages.

Coming in the next update: 70mm and 65mm rolls (asked for in this sub!), large-format cameras listed properly for 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10, and the lab list sorted nearest first.

Formats today: 35mm, 120, 110, 4x5, 5x7, 8x10 and instant, plus any film as a custom stock.

Links:

- Website + video: https://pellica.app/how-it-works/

- iOS: https://apps.apple.com/app/id6756510462

- Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.imad.rollify

As always, tell me what's missing or what I got wrong. Most of the app came from conversations like these.

— Imad

Check my video about the mighty Olympus Pen F. The only half frame interchangeable lens SLR.

Hi all!

I have a question on how to zone focus with the Nikon 28mm f2.8 AI-S.

I understand the basic usage of zone focus with the colored markings on the lens.

- @ f/5.6: Set the left brown mark to infinity, right brown mark would be at around 2 meters.

- @ f/11: Set left yellow mark to infinity, right yellow mark would be around 1.4 meters.

- @ f/16: Set left blue mark to infinity, right blue mark would be at around 0.8 meters.

- @ f/22: Set left orange mark to infinity, right orange mark would be at would 0.6 meters.

How do I set the zone focus at f/8? There is no colored mark indicating it.

Any tips would be appreciated!!

Thank you

I recently got a Mamiyaflex C2 and to test it out I shot a roll of Fomapan 400. As I went though the roll I noticed that the advance knob wouldn't always stop with the number in the red window. It was sometimes a little before the number or a little after. This has led to inconsistently spaced frames on the film with the 2 closest overlapping slightly. What can I do about this? I did make sure to align the start mark when loading.

I have a roll of Ektachrome infrared E-4 stored in a freezer that my uncle gave me together with my camera. It is my understanding that the E-4 process is extinct and E-6 will not work. I also understand that it is possible, if I'm lucky, to develop it in c-41 with chemicals for B&W. Is there any lab in Europe that could develop it or should I start learning to develop myself and save it for when I'm confident in my ability to try developing it myself?

(satire)
1. Switch the shutter mode to multi
2. Cycle through the exposures until the light meter says EXP
3. Shoot the pic in single exposure mode and shoot
Never need an external light meter again

Is there a way to maximize contrast and minimize grain when shooting at ISO 3200, or is that best handled in post-processing (like Lightroom)? 

I think I made a mistake by only metering -1 stop for my orange filter instead of the recommended -1.5 to 2 stops. Also, I don't have control over the developer choice right now.

As a beginner in black and white film photography, I'd love any tips or advice on how to improve my results!

(Photo for attention, not my photo)

I started thinking about trying star trail photography with film. What I've read in articles online about it is: 1) 50-100ASA film; 2) widest aperture; 3) don't use a telephoto lens; 4) find location with little to no light pollution.

But I haven't read anywhere about people experimenting with ND filters too, to increase the star trail length (and length of time waiting). Something light, like an ND8.

ND filters are also on my mind because of point 4, light pollution. Looking at https://www.lightpollutionmap.info/ there is nowhere near me that isn't effected by moderate light pollution. So I could try using an ND filter to cut down the ambient glow and keep the star streaking effect. At least, that's my idea.

Has anyone else done star trail photography with film, and have ever even experimented with using an ND filter in conjunction with it?

the camera is contax 139 q with a 50 mm 1,7 carl zeiss lend , and i got it second hand [contax 139q,50mm f1/7,color plus 200]

and i shot a kodak color plus 200 on it , and as you can see the results are crazy awful, i heard that white light leaks are usually a front issue , rather than a backdoor issue . but i checked the front and the shutter and ever is smooth and and there is nothing leaking . on the other hand the backdoor light seals are basically non existent, , they just disappeared with time i guess . but whats making me confused is this idea that white light leaks are generally something coming from the front.

I’m just starting out on shooting film, and yes I have read the manual and searched reddit, and I’m still a little confused on how the light meter is meant to be read in auto mode on the AE1.

Is the needle supposed be pointed in the middle to say “yes this will be exposed correct”, or is it pointing to the aperture it’s going to use based on your shutter speed?

My thought at first was the latter because that’s basically how you read it in manual mode, but then I read a comment on reddit that said “as long as your the needle is pointed between 5-8 you’re probably good.“ (https://www.reddit.com/r/CanonAE1/comments/vy3ncp/how_do_you_use_the_light_meter_in_the_canon_ae1/)

For example say it’s pointing at 2 or 2.8 in auto, and I want that for a shallow depth of field, does that mean it’s good and I should take the photo? Or because the needle is not pointed in the middle that means it’s going to be underexposed?

Or alternatively if it’s pointing at 11 or higher (without triggering the over exposure warning) is that saying it’s not going to turn out?

Basically is the goal to have the needle pointed center in auto mode or just not in the red zones in the over/under exposure warning areas?

Title says it all really. Recently started shooting film on a 36-year-old Fuji CARDIA Mini Dual P. I know nothing about shooting film or photography in general but thought it might make my photos on my Japan trip look cool.

Anyway, I picked up the camera for quite cheap off eBay and shot a roll roll of film as a test before I went away and had no issues at all.
After shooting three rolls in Japan, however I noticed some strange marks on the frame that always occurred in the exact same place which I deduced to be a light leak. It occurred in around one third of the photos taken with varying severity but always in the same location.
I tried to fix the light leak after buying some 1 mm thick foam and filling where I thought I needed to however after taking the camera to Prague this last week I’ve noticed that the problem seems to have gotten worse and more consistent.

I guess the problem is I can’t really find any manuals or anything about this camera and so I’m trying to fill any sort of hole I can with foam and I don’t really have any experience or knowledge on the matter. I was wondering if anyone out there had the same camera or could give me some general advice on fixing light leaks or maybe this isn’t even a light leak at all?

First picture is before repair, second is after my first repair and third is what I’ve done today. Rest are some shots from Japan and Prague for context.

Any help would really be appreciated.

TLDR; is this a light leak? How do I fix?

I am trying to buy a roll of Agfapan 1000 film from Tori but am not a Finnish citizen. Are there other ways to contact the seller? Or does anyone have Agfapan 1000 lying around they are willing to sell? Appreciate any help or advice. Based in Australia.

I haven't had any luck in Taichung and I'll be in Kaohsiung soon. Places that do have film seem to have Fujifilm Superia 200 and 400...

I barely found 1 roll of Vetrokam 400 when I was in Taipei. Looking for HP 5 or similar stock.

I'll be near the center of town where I'm going and mainly taking public transit. Any tips are appreciated 🙏🏻

I am using a Canon AE-1. I genuinely don't know how these double exposures happened. I thought this camera model wouldn't let me fire the shutter button twice in a row without winding to the next frame? I've not had these issues before with this camera, and these two were the only examples of it.
How can I prevent this in the future?
Film was Portra 400.

I just had the worst experience, I recently loaded up my camera before leaving Paris to go to England
The film had photos taken, I asked for a hand check multiple times, they even thought my M6 was a Digi cam.. they scream at me saying it has to go in the scanner they did not want to listen to me blabbering about its light sensitive film.. so I had not choice. It’s just really sad as an artist to have to go through soul crushing defeat like that , totally knocks me down.

Has anyone got any counter to this ?? I can only imagine with each city of travel before every flight drop the film in a lab and have the processed mailed to me 😅

Hi all.
Just got my 35mm film scans back and I am really disappointed.
So many weird foggy/halo spots on my pics.

Shot on an old Olympus stylus infinity. It does not handle low light particularly well (sometimes things are less detailed and the film quality is more noticeable) but I have never ever had my photos be this severely messed up in my 3 years of shooting with this camera.

Is it broken- like light leakage maybe? Bad roll of film? Tried out a new developing place in my city- did they screw up?

If anyone has seen something similar to this or had a similar experience please let me know. I know the photos can likely not be fixed but just to avoid in the future.

I’ll include the messed up pics along with some of the better ones I’ve taken on previous rolls in similar lighting for reference

Found this camera stand on facebook marketplace for $350. It’s a Manfrotto Mini Salon 190, they retail for $1700. It’s definitely been used a lot, but it works perfectly and I’ve wanted one for years. The previous owner said she traveled with 3 of these, doing school portraits. Traveling with a camera stand seems wild to me, they’re meant for studios. It’s 6’ tall, weighs at least 75lbs, and is incredibly unwieldy. Just getting it home was quite the task. She modified it a bit, there’s a removable caster for the top, so it can roll around horizontally.

I had the 3-way head already. The camera stand came with a smaller manfrotto 3-way head, but it used a different quick release plate than I have for all my cameras, so I sold it.

I put my 8x10 B&J on it to test it out with some weight. The camera was old army surplus and had several layers of grey lead paint on it. I stripped it and refinished it about 20 years ago, and put new red bellows on it too. I regret not taking before and during photos, it was in rough shape and the restoration took me about a month. There’s a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in that camera. I love it.

I’m so excited to use my new (to me) camera stand, my home studio is almost complete. Just have to finish painting the walls white and hang my seamless backdrop wall mounts.

Heya, I'm planning to take my first set of trichromes in the next few days using the lens pictured above. Would leaving image stabilization on mess with anything? Even when shooting with a tripod, I tend to leave it in case of wind or any other disturbance. (canon EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS USM with a rebel 2000 slr if the exact specs matter)

Hi,

the best camera for beginners?
cool and price around 150/200 used?

thanks

Hello film shooters! Almost finishing my own DIY Lightmeter project started a few weeks ago based on ESP32 microcontroller and Lux sensor, it reproduced exact exposure as a lightmeter app, The reason for building this project is cost effective and hassle free lightmeter for everyday film shoot.

Key features:

*Aperture priority Mode

*Shutter priority Mode

*True battery indicator

*Auto exposure adjustment depending on Aperture mode/Shutter mode/ISO

If any suggestions, feel free to share.

These are my first film photos and post edits. I spent a good while messing around in Lightroom and constantly going back and forth on how I want my image to look. I thought I was satisfied. Two weeks later, I’m going “what was I thinking this looks atrocious” am I overthinking it or did I truly do too much with color grading. Is less more here? Am I over analyzing? I understand, I should figure out my own style but I’m just curious and would like to learn from others. How would you edit these, personally?
(First image is before, second is after)

Also ignore the light leaks, it was a development issue

Picked up a Konica Minolta DiMAGE Scan Dual IV, but it came without the 35mm strip holder (FH-U1). Originals are getting hard to find, so I spent a few weeks designing and 3D printing a replacement in matte PETG.

It took several versions to get right. A few things I learned along the way, in case they help anyone with one of these scanners:

- Emulsion side DOWN on the Dual IV (manual p.18). I first followed a guide for an older model, loaded it emulsion up, and every scan came out mirrored 🙃

- Frame spacing has to be 38.0 mm. At 37.9 mm the frames slowly drift off-centre by frame 6.

- The scanner pulls the holder in with a small gear rack along one edge. If the teeth are even slightly off, it stutters or refuses to load.

- Matte filament is noticeably better than glossy. Fewer reflections near the frame edges.

The final version has a lift-off lid that hooks into a hinge, a wide flared opening so the strip slides in flat from the end, frame numbers 1–6, and small bumps along the edges that hold the lid down without magnets.

Last photo is a scan straight from it, no cropping.

If anyone has a Dual II/III/IV sitting unused because the holder went missing, or has questions about loading film in these, happy to help in the comments.

I have thought about it for years, but it seemed daunting, and expensive, and labor intensive. I finally dug into it on a whim two weeks ago, scratched my thrifty itch with a Kodak Ektar H35 half frame camera, and then discovered the simplicity of Cinestill DF96 developer plus fix. I already have a sous vide, so that got me right to temperature. I assumed my first few rolls would be sacrifices to the learning curve, but if I ignore the lousy exposures that were my and/or the camera’s fault, I’m super tickled with the results.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that doesn't look mint. I cleaned it with zeiss lens cleaner, and it doesn't come off, meaning it's on the inside. A quick Google search tells me it's balsam separation, which the ad specifically said it didn't have.

I take google searches and ai with a grain of salt, but I know that it aint mint. I guess I'll just have to return it?