I accidentally spilled a small amount of coffee containing milk and sugar on my laptop while I was using it. The spill mainly affected around one-fourth of the keyboard, particularly the numpad area. I could actually see the coffee through the gaps between the keys.

I immediately wiped it with a damp cloth. Since the surface was still sticky, I then used a cloth with some soap on it to clean the sticky residue on the outside. I shut the laptop down and disconnected the charger and accessories shortly afterward. The laptop was working completely normally after the spill.

I’m planning to leave it switched off for around 48 hours, but I’m really worried about possible internal damage and corrosion from the milk and sugar.

I’m currently applying to different colleges, and all my important documents and applications are on this laptop. Unfortunately, I can’t really afford a technician right now and may not be able to get it inspected immediately.

Could someone please tell me what the chances are that my laptop will be completely fine? Is there anything else I can safely do at home to minimise the damage?

If I can’t afford a technician immediately, how urgent is it to get the laptop inspected? Would you recommend taking it to a technician even if it seems to be working normally after 48 hours?

Hi everyone!

First of all, this is my first Reddit post ever! English is my second language, so I apologize if anything is unclear. I’m also not very good with technology, so I’ll try my best to explain the problem.

Whenever I turn on my computer, it opens a blue screen called Aptio Setup Utility – Copyright (C) 2021 American Megatrends, Inc. instead of going straight to my desktop.

The only way I’ve found to get to my desktop is to go to the Security tab, open Secure Boot, switch it from Enabled to Disabled (or vice versa), and then press F10 to save and exit.

The problem is that I have to do this every single time I turn on my computer, which is getting pretty frustrating.

Does anyone know why this is happening or how I can fix it permanently? I’d really appreciate any help! Please explain things in simple terms, if possible, because I’m not very experienced with computers.

Thank you in advance!

More information if needed: the brand is Lenovo , my last update was Windows 11 version 26H2.

Hi hi!

I'd like to preface this by saying i know very little about tech and am very anxious about playing around with cables, so i might need some handholding when it comes to some of the terminology and i'm very sorry about that.
I also am unsure if anyone can actually help me with this or if it's an issue that needs to be taken care of by a repair shop, but i am pretty much broke at the moment and really cannot afford to get it fixed right away. Thought i might as well try and see if someone has any advice beyond that first

My PC has worked fine for the past three years that i've had it. We had some overheating issues in the past and got an extra fan that resolved those and aside from that (and lower end RAM; 16GB if i remember correctly) everything was okay.
But i've moved out of my parents' place last year and a few months ago i started running into freezing issues where my PC would just stop working sometimes, occasionally accompanied by the sudden loud static noise of it loading the last bit of sound, and i'd have to manually turn it off and on again. It scared me, especially the noise, but turning it off and on again did fix it at first. I didn't like not knowing what the issue was, but it wasn't like i really knew what to look for either.

It started happening more frequently within the last two weeks, sometimes making a short beeping noise when i turned it on again or freezing AGAIN later. My boyfriend recommended opening up the PC and seeing if i can clean it out and i did, but there honestly wasn't much dust buildup. Definitely not enough to cause this. And as i said before, i am very wary about messing with anything, so i didn't take anything about at the time. Only wiped off little bits of dust where i felt like i safely could. It resulted in my cores being minimally cooler, but didn't fix the freezing issue. Didn't really seem like it was overheating that was the issue in the first place.

The second thing he suggested was looking at my files and if maybe it was a memory issue. I admittedly have too many games (with mods) for how little space i actually have, but even after deleting some things and the games not taking up that much space anymore, my memory usage from other idle apps was concerningly high. I also didn't recognize most of them, so they're probably apps the system just?? needs?? and runs on its own? None of them seemed particularly suspicious.
However, i'm unsure if memory usage is the issue either. Even after making some space and not even actively playing any games, the PC would now sometimes crash while just idling. No games, no extra applications, just turned on.

Up until yesterday i could still at least mostly play my games. But it seems like it finally came to a point where it couldn't do it any longer. It kept freezing, then upon the third try, it wouldn't even properly turn on anymore, it just made a continuous beeping noise. A mutual friend who knows a little more about IT stuff tried helping me, suggesting i open it up again, take out the RAM and very carefully clean the copper sides with a clean eraser. They didn't look dirty and it unfortunately didn't fix the issue.

Then we tried taking out the graphics card and doing the same thing there; also didn't help. Tried putting in each RAM stick in one of the slots to see if it was either one that was "more" of an issue; nope. Not that either. Last idea was to take out the little coin cell battery for a few minutes to (i think) manually reset the BIOS. Also didn't fix it.
I would love to just put it back to factory settings and see if that magically fixes it, since aside from mods i don't have anything valuable on there i would miss anyway, but it won't even turn on anymore. Not even for a short moment. All it does is give the long drawn out beep while it's running.

I can't see any issues observing it from the side. All of the fans seem to be working fine and the LEDs turn on. A quick google search suggests it is probably an issue with the RAM, graphics card or power supply, but i don't know how to figure it out and unfortunately said friend and boyfriend live on the other side of the world (for now) and can't help me with it other than by talking me through some things over call. We briefly changed where it was plugged into, but that also didn't help. I am already impressed by the fact that i was "brave" enough to take out all that stuff, and i guess i learned some new things. At least one positive thing to come from this haha

If anyone has ANY suggestions i could try before taking it to a shop i would honestly be so so grateful. If i do have to take it to someone else, is there any way to know approximately what amount of money i can expect it to cost? I doubt it, but maybe worth asking. And i apologize again for my lack of knowledge on this.

The PC is an acer predator orion 3000, barely 3 years old. Cores were at an idle 30-40 degrees celsius, then 60-70 max during gaming. The NVDIA driver is fully up to date and there weren't any windows updates last i checked (i'm on windows 11, if that matters at all, but since it's likely a hardware issue i doubt it)

Thank you in advance for anyone even reading this and i hope you're having a better week than i do 🙏🏻

Hey everyone,

I've been experiencing repeated BSODs and random black screens, and I'm struggling to identify the cause. I'd appreciate help diagnosing whether this is a GPU, driver, PSU, or system stability issue.

PC specs

• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z790-P (non-Wi-Fi)
• CPU: Intel Core i9-14900KF
• GPU: ASUS RTX 4070 SUPER 12GB
• RAM: 64GB G.Skill DDR5-6400 (4 × 16GB)
• Storage: Samsung 990 PRO 2TB NVMe + SanDisk Extreme PRO M.2 500GB
• PSU: be quiet! 1000W
• OS: Windows 11 (build 26300.2)
• BIOS: Updated from 1825 to 1836

Symptoms

• The monitor suddenly goes black and displays “No Signal,” but the PC's fans and RGB stay on.
• During gaming, I sometimes hear a few short beeps when the display disappears in my headphones, but only sometimes.
• Spotify audio continued playing during incidents, but I couldn't recover the display without restarting.
• It happens in Valorant and GTA V, sometimes within 2–3 minutes, but also while browsing or shortly after startup.
• Sometimes the PC runs normally for 30–50 minutes before it happens.

What I've tried

• Updated BIOS to 1836 and disabled XMP.
• Tried another HDMI cable, another monitor, and DisplayPort.
• Freshly installed NVIDIA graphics driver.
• Left the PC in BIOS for about 10 minutes; the display remained stable.
• Checked Reliability Monitor, but haven't found a definitive hardware error. The repeated “Windows was not properly shut down” entries appear to be from restarting after the black screens so nothing there so far.

What could be causing this?

Could it be a GPU or GPU power issue, an NVIDIA driver crash, a faulty PSU despite its 1000W rating, or instability related to the i9-14900KF?

What's the best way to isolate the cause without unnecessarily replacing hardware?

Thanks for any advice!

hello im posting this bcs i have a single stick of ddr 4 ram and im looking for help here are the specs:

**Brand:** Gloway

**Capacity:** 16 GB (1x16GB)

**Type:** DDR4 Desktop UDIMM (Non-ECC)

**Model Number:** TAC4U3200E18162C

**Speed:** 3200 MHz / MT/s (PC4-25600)

**Tested Timings (XMP):** CL18-22-22-42

**Tested Voltage:** 1.35 V

**DRAM Manufacturer (Chips):** Samsung (Single Rank)

and im looking to buy another one to unlock dual channel and better performance is it okay if i buy another one with the same specs or should i sell it and buy a pair of 2x8 or sell it an buy a 2x16 an thanks

Good afternoon everyone, i have problem with one of my NVME SSD's.

I have a build with a MSI Tomahawk 850 Max, and it has 4 slots for NVME, and i use 2 of those, 1 for a 500gb one for the OS, and the 2tb one for steam games, other than that i have 4 SATA HDD's.

Sometimes, rarely when booting or rebooting the PC, the big NVME just won't be recognized, won't appear on disk management, and sometimes won't appear on boot, i'd say 1 in 20 times i reboot the PC this happens.

Then if i reboot it again, enter the boot and just exit it, it works perfectly, i can then play normally and if i put the computer to sleep instead of turning it off, it'll work flawlessly, it'll wake up and continue no problem, this problem only happens when booting or rebooting the computer.

Also dunno if important but the SSD is a GEN5 FURY Renegade G5 2tb, i have it for 2 and half years now, and according to crystal disk it's health is currently at 98%.

Any help would be appreciated.

I have an IPad 9th gen that keeps forgetting that I already have a subscription to the BBC app and locks me out of paid content. Every 2 days or so I have to delete the app, reload it and sign in again. Not a disaster, but a bit of a pain - any ideas on how to fix it? This does not happen (so far) with other apps.

Hi everyone. Ever since the recent combined updates (the latest patch for Cyberpunk 2077 and the NVIDIA graphics driver update), my game has become heavy to play due to two simultaneous issues that I didn't have before:

1. Extreme Loading Times: Game loads take an extremely long time when starting up or transitioning between screens (it seems the game engine is struggling with data streaming).
2. Visual Grid/Noise Artifact ("Mesh/Dither Pattern"): Whenever Ray Tracing or Ray Reconstruction is enabled, a very annoying grid or pixelated dot pattern appears over character faces and surfaces (especially noticeable under neon lights or skin).

My PC Specs:

• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti

Troubleshooting steps already tried (without success):

• Cleared Caches: Deleted the DirectX shader cache via Windows settings, as well as clearing the contents of the game's cache folder in AppData.
• Driver Rollback: Downgraded the NVIDIA driver back to the previous stable version using a clean installation (Clean Installation).
• In-Game Settings: Tried changing streaming options (HDD Mode), disabling Reflex, and adjusting DLSS sharpness.
• Ray Tracing Settings: Attempted to disable or reconfigure DLSS Ray Reconstruction, Sharpness, and Subsurface Scattering, but the visual artifact persists exactly the same.
• File Integrity: Manually replaced and verified the integrity of the game's DLL libraries (nvngx_dlss.dll and nvngx_dlssd.dll) via the launcher.

• Note on the visual fix: Curiously, the only way to make the grid/mesh pattern completely disappear is by turning Ray Tracing completely off, which points to an issue with the denoiser or the lighting libraries in the latest version.

  (it needs to be recalcated, i have have 32 of ram and a rizen 7 5800x before uptade the game take of a couple of seconds to open and load game)

Hey everyone, I’ve run into a really bizarre problem with how Windows handles links, and after trying everything I could think of, I'm completely stuck.

Essentially, whenever I have a third-party browser set as my default, clicking external links inside desktop apps does nothing at all. If I click a link in Discord, the app just ignores it—no browser window appears, no new tab opens, and not even a background process starts up. When I try to open an external sign-in window through Thunderbird, it immediately throws an error: https://imgur.com/a/WJn77d2

The weird part is that the moment I switch my default browser to Microsoft Edge, everything works flawlessly. To see if it was just a Firefox quirk, I tested Google Chrome, but Chrome runs into the exact same issue and won't open either. So it really feels like Microsoft cuffs me to Edge.

For context, I'm running Windows 11 (26H2 / OS Build 26300.9711) on a system with Ryzen 7 3800X, RTX 3060 Ti, 32 GB RAM. There weren't any major software or hardware changes right before this started happening, aside from regular background updates.

I’ve already gone through quite a bit of troubleshooting: I reseted the default apps in Windows Settings, and manually re-mapped HTTP, HTTPS, and .html specifically to Firefox. I also did a full clean reinstallation of Firefox, wiped related registry entries under Software\Mozilla in both HKCU and HKLM, and tested across different browsers as mentioned. Still, only Edge manages to receive links from other applications.

At this point, neither search engines nor AI could point me in the right direction, and I’m completely out of ideas. Has anyone encountered this behavior before or knows which registry paths or system components might be messed up here? I'd really appreciate any advice!

Hey everyone, I need some help figuring out what happened to my Ethernet connection.

I unplugged the small RESET SW and POWER SW cables from my motherboard and then plugged them back in. Since then, my Ethernet connection has completely stopped working.

Here’s what I’ve tried so far:

• Reinstalling the Ethernet drivers
• Resetting the network settings
• Uninstalling the Realtek PCIe GbE Family Controller (following ChatGPT’s advice)

Unfortunately, nothing has worked. The biggest thing I’ve noticed is that the LED indicator on the motherboard’s Ethernet port no longer lights up at all, whereas it used to before this happened.

I’m not sure if I accidentally damaged something, if the Ethernet controller is disabled, or if this is just a driver issue.

I feel stupid for following ChatGPT’s advice about uninstalling the Realtek controller, and now I have no idea what to do next.

Has anyone experienced something similar or have any suggestions on how to fix this? Could unplugging and reconnecting the RESET SW and POWER SW cables somehow have caused this, or is it just a coincidence?

I have a pc with asrock b850 livemixer motherboard and ryzen 9700x. I used this pc for more than a year with no problem. And then i change the thermal paste with arctic mx-7. After repasting my pc is stuck on post, the fans and power light up but no display on the monitor and there's debug led with redlight on the board on the cpu label. I have tried several attempts to fix it by swapping or using one ram sticks, cleaning the ram, loosen the air cooler screws, using onboard display, resetting cmos with no results. i clean the paste underneath the cpu and i also saw a little bit of paste on the board socket but i haven't touch it out of fear i might mess up.

I checked with 2 techinicans, one said the cpu is dead because it's cold when the pc turned on but he didn't test with another unit(other cpu on this board or my cpu on other board). So i thought the cpu is dead

Then i went to second technician, he tested other cpu on my board and it's not working either, but he didn't test my cpu on other board.

What should i do now?

full specs

AMD Ryzen 7 9700X

RAM DDR5 ACER PREDATOR VESTA II RGB DDR5 32GB (2x16GB)

Sapphire Pure 9070 XT

Motherboard Asrock B850 Livemixer WiFi (AMD AM5, DDR5)

NZXT C850 850W Gold ATX 3.1

Two things I've noticed over the last several days, running Firefox 158.0.1 (64 bit) on Windows 11:

1) Google Maps is all messed up. It's clunky and I can't click on any locations. The other day I was just getting a black screen but that's corrected itself at least.

2) Loading "more comments" on reddit just hangs.

Are these related somehow? I've tried disabling uBlock Origin but that didn't seem to do anything, and I'm not running any other extensions.

Okay so, this is a Long text. Sorry about that in advance!

I may have been stupid and downloaded a cracked game, from a website that until now has ALWAYS had clean downloads as far as i know.

Antivirus didn't ping/catch anything, but when i tried to open the setup exe for the game, it came up with an error, created two temp folders in my laptop, and windows security caught it!

The Trojan specifically was; Win64/Lazy.PGLI!MTB

Windows security quarantined it, and for a second i thought "hmm if i delete the temp folders it created, I'll be fine.

But I'm pretty sure somethjng was still on it, because an hour later. 4 of my 5 discord accounts (only side accs so i didn't worry) got hacked/snatched and sent out that annoying mr beast scam link, yk which one i mean) my main only didn't get got cuz the second the trojan showed i changed it's password just to be sure!

Also incase anyone asks, i also changed email passwords and co. so I'm not concerned about that.

Now then i downloaded malwarebytes, and it still found 10 threats windows didn't (Trojan.PavinLoader (Generic and Trace and some with neither behind the namd) and RiskWare.HackTool)

But these files very likely didn't get created with the Lazy.pgli!mtb that i got, because they were found in locations created a longer while ago (like '22, '23)

Anyways, i deleted all appdata/local temp files i could delete, just to be safe (especially temp files created within the first 10-20 minutes after the game download/exe file opening!) and double checked everything.

Im not sure if its clean, but i wanted to check on the internet.

Issue is. My wifi doesn't work. I already followed several tutorials, i pinged 1.1.1.1 and 8.8.8.8 and did things such as disabling and reabling the device/driver thingies. And some other things I don't rmemeber since it was yesterday, and it was 5 am so i went to sleep after 6 hours of trying

And no, it isn't issue of my laptop, my wifi works excellently on my phone and co.

Does anyone know how i can reconnect to the internet? And how i can make sure the trojan/infostealer is gone?

But especially the internet thingy because I wouldn't mind resetting my windows completely (i would back up my important files to mega), but i need access to the the intenet to download a windows usb on an usb ^^'

I hope anyone has advice! I can't exactly ask anyone else because my parents would kill me, lol

​

My college classes are coming to an end and soon I will lose all access to my online textbooks. They're through Amatrol, they're basically just slides. I was wondering if there is a way I can copy them or download them to a thumb drive. there's no obvious way to download the slides or anything like that. I could take a ss of each slide but there's thousands.

Id greatly appreciate any ideas or help, and if this is the wrong sub, if you could point me to the correct one that'd be great, thanks.

Lately I have been having issue with my monitor adapter and I can't pin down the root cause of the problem because after my original adapter died after 2 years i decided to get a replacement which after a month or 2 of using it completely died again I then proceed to get another adapter then it just stop working again today.
I can't really base the issue off anything because i just boot up my pc and the monitor led wasn't lighting up. I suspect it might be my UPS, the first one i use my first adapter with did have issue and the battery was dying so I figure it might be that and got a replacement which is the same model(apc bx1600mi-ms) which ran without any issue but then the new adapter still die after a month or two of use.
The polarity/voltage match with correct ac input and the Amperage if i recall the first was one was a bit higher and the second one match it perfectly at 3.42A.
Another thing i suspect is the type F plug it have that I plugged into a universal socket which doesn't have the ground pin inserting it but a bit of googling told it me it probably wasn't the main cause of it.

if anyone can help pin down the issue it would be much appreciated.

my audio changes how it sounds depending on which application im on, my music and videos from spotify and firefox change how they sound if i switch to certain application (primarily discord and league of ledgends), additionally if im in a discord call, the voices sound different when i minimize the application. As for how the sound changes, on discord and LOL it pitches slightly deeper and louder. i dont know whats going on but it might have to do with me reinstalling my audio drivers.

It might also have to do with the game itself, as it switched which driver it used from amd to geforce after a reinstall

Hi everyone,

​My PC completely freezes while playing Call of Duty MW4 Dmz. It has happened twice so far, and both times occurred right around using/scoping in with a sniper scope.

​When it happens:

​The screen completely freezes.

​I can still hear my friend talking on Discord, but the entire system is unresponsive (mouse/keyboard don't work).

​The only way to fix it is a hard reset via the power/reset button.

​Specs:

​CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K

​GPU: XFX Mercury AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT OC

​Motherboard: ASUS Prime Z790-P D4

​RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 @ 4000MHz

​Storage: 3x M.2 NVMe SSDs

​PSU: Corsair RM750e (750W Gold)

​GPU Cabling: Connected with 1x dedicated PCIe 8-pin + 1x daisy-chained (pigtail) 8-pin from the same cable.

​The GPU recommends an 800W+ PSU. Could the sudden power spike from zooming in cause a voltage sag on the daisy-chained cable and freeze the GPU driver, or is this an engine/shader bug?

​Any insights would be appreciated.

I Spilt some tea on my Logitech g Pro wireless mouse earlier. Initially it was fairly buggy and lights were on but then it seemed to work properly, however by the time I went to take it apart (i had to clean my keyboard first) the lights had gone out and there was no sign of life.

I checked the board for any liquids (there was some and i dabbed it with a tissue until i couldnt see any more liquids). and from what i can tell there are no obvious signs of corrosion. The wrapping for the battery inside seems dry too But there are still no signs of life after turning it on and plugging it in.

Does this point towards the tea killing the mouse even without corrosion marks and is it salvable or Should i buy a replacement?

Hi everyone, I've been troubleshooting severe stuttering, freezing, and "speed-up lag" in games and in windows in general, and I'm running out of ideas.

My PC specs:

• CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 4070 Ti
• RAM: 32GB Corsair ddr5
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z790-A WIFI
• SSD: Kingston NV2 2TB NVMe (SNV2S2000G)
• OS: Windows 11 26H2
• Game and Windows are installed on the same SSD.

While gaming on and offline, the game occasionally stutters or freezes, followed by speed-up lag where the game seems to fast-forward to catch up. When the freeze occurs ssd active time spikes up to 100% momentarily. When i check processes it says that "System" is the reason.

Things ive tried already:

• Updated BIOS and chipset drivers.
• Checked SSD health using Kingston SSD Manager (reported healthy).
• Updated SSD firmware.

Im thinking it's just broken or something, but do you all ahve any tips for me? Thanks :(

As the title describes my pc freezes completely but sound still plays and i can still move the cursor, i tried leaving task manager open on the performance tab to see if anything is out of order but nothing is wrong, ive used sfc /scannow and other commands to check the health of the pc, used crystaldiskinfo to no avail since both my storage drives are in good health. It started around 6/7 hours ago and it happened 3 times until now with more frequency as time goes on. I also tried to do a virus scan but no threats were found and also saw that some people online were having this problem while having razer synapse installed so I uninstalled it but the problem persists. I also can't ctrl+alt+del or shift+ctrl+win+b since it does nothing.

Specs: Rx 9060xt 16gb; Ryzen 7 5700x; 32gb ddr4

no green or no yellow, just orange just blinking, it blink like every 2sec(?) and in modem the wlan im using is blinking

I think my headsets are possessed! I have had the Audeze Maxwell BT for ages and I love them BUT they have this repeating problem of disconnecting from my PC on their own. It use to only be once in a while when I wasn't actively playing audio (like if I'm waiting in a zoom call for a few minutes and have nothing playing in the background). For example, they would never disconnect while gaming or listening to music.

BUT lately, the issue feels like it's becoming more frequent. Recently, I started to help my company PT with answering their customer service calls and it requires just being available to occasionally answer a phone app thing. So to prevent my headsets from disconnecting while I wait on calls, I started to do little things like I'll watch YT or have something playing. But now the disconnecting happens regardless of audio being played. I can't predict it anymore, it will sometimes be 3 minutes or an hour and they suddenly disconnect and switch to a built in speaker. My concern is to be actively disconnected DURING a work call. I can't risk that!

Troubleshooting/Problem Solving Attempts So Far:
1. Disconnected other audio options, clicked "forget this device" on multiple options to prevent switching. Worked for a little while.
2. Turned off all Power Save and Hibernation Mode settings.
3. Toggled off, "Always use energy saver"
4. Uninstalled/Reinstalled Drivers
5. Updated Drivers (via Windows and the Audeze desktop app)
6. Used the headsets via USB cable instead of Bluetooth (this technically works but is annoying lol)

There is ONE thing I haven't tried (but attempted) and that's the Microsoft Support suggested solution #3. It states:

Solution 3: Disable the energy saving feature in Device Manager

Select Start, type Device Manager and select it from the search results.

In Device Manager, expand Bluetooth, right-click your Bluetooth device.

Select the Power Management tab and uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power."

I must be crazy or something because when I go into Device Manager and expand Bluetooth, their are 2 "Audeze Maxwell BT" headsets and 1 "Audeze Maxwell BT Avrcp Transport". I right-clicked on each of them and none of them have a "Power Management" tab. The only visible tabs are, General, Driver, Details and Events.

Well, there it is, that's the entire issue as clear as I can write it lol PLEASE does anyone have any suggestions before I am forced to abandon these headsets that I adore?!

I need general tech advice, any ideas are welcome

1. My Sennheiser HD459bt headphones won’t enter pairing mode and cant be connected to my iPhone via Bluetooth.
   - Tried to reset the headphones, waited until fully charged, and followed steps on the manual
   - Restarted my phone, tried “forget this device” but no luck

2. Kick started an old iPhone and iPod to be able to try and plug in the headphones manually WiFi + hotspot will “connect” and symbol appears in top corner of the device, but unable to load Spotify/google or anything. Also keeps showing a pop up “cannot verify server identity”, exact same on both devices.
   - Tried restarting both devices, even reset the old iPhone and wiped everything, exact same
   - Online shows to click “details” button on the pop up and click “trust”, but my devices don’t have a “trust” button.

Wondering if it’s just apple rendering my devices unusable for being too old.

Around September, I started playing Dota and 30-60 seconds after I close the game I'd get the "Your Device Ran Into a Problem and Needs to Restart. Hypervisor Error 0x200001". Not every time, could be a few times in a row, than missing for a few days and etc. I tried some diagnosing myself, but I don't know much about this, as far as I figured it out GoogleHaxm (something that was connected with Google Play Games that I installed) was the culprit. I deleted Google Play Games, made sure that GoogleHaxm was no longer on the laptop and it was fine for about a month. On October 15th I saw Windows Update and did it, after the it restarted it immediately gave that error again, now not connected to Dota at all. And on yesterday (October 22) I had the same BSOD again after closing Dota, I started diagnosing again (turned out there was another one on October 19 that I didn't notice probably because I left after closing the game?) but this time to no use. I have some files saved if those would help.

Let me know if anyone has knowledge about this issue, I can provide any information I have (I tried putting the Google Drive links here but turns out they're not allowed). I'm just extremely worried right now because it's a really expensive laptop. Please help