My Windows 11 PC was recently infected with malware, and the attacker managed to steal several of my accounts.

I've already changed my passwords and secured my important accounts from another clean device. The infected PC is currently completely disconnected from the internet.

The problem is that I still need to recover some important account data from a few Chrome profiles before formatting the computer. Some of this information requires an internet connection to access.

My idea was to delete all unnecessary Chrome profiles, saved passwords, cookies, and personal account data while offline, keeping only the specific profiles I need.

Then I would temporarily connect to the internet, retrieve what I need, disconnect, and completely reinstall Windows. Is if safe doing this way? Would deleting all other Chrome profiles and credentials prevent the malware from stealing those accounts again?

I understand the PC is compromised and that reconnecting it carries risks. I'm just trying to minimize those risks before wiping everything.

Any advice would be appreciated.

TL;DR: My ASUS R465JA started crashing shortly after a Windows update (possibly 26H2, not 100% sure). Initially, it would sometimes boot and work for hours, but the crashes gradually became more frequent. Now Windows won't boot at all. The BIOS reports Incomplete Optane Volume, with only the ~27 GB Optane component showing as Offline; the ~477 GB SSD portion is missing. A Windows installation USB also only detects the 27 GB component. I tried Windows recovery, uninstalling updates, reinstalling Windows (stuck at 1%), and chkdsk (stuck at 80% during Phase 2). Could the H10 module be failing, or could this be an Intel RST/Optane configuration issue? I have document everything I did so sorry for this monster of a text!

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I'm having a serious issue with my ASUS laptop and would appreciate some advice on what might be causing it and how to diagnose it.

Hardware

• Laptop: ASUS R465JA-EK278T (about 5 years old I'd say)
• Storage: Intel Optane Memory H10 with Solid State Storage, M.2 2280
• Module: 32 GB Optane + 512 GB NAND SSD
• The BIOS originally showed an Optane volume of approximately 476.9 GB.

Timeline

Shortly before the problems started, I installed a Windows update. I think it may have mentioned 26H2, although I'm not certain of the exact update.

About two days ago, the laptop crashed for the first time. After several attempts, I managed to boot it again, and it worked normally for the rest of the day.

After shutting it down and turning it on the following day, it started crashing again. Initially, Windows would boot briefly and then crash after roughly two minutes with the INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE (0x7B) blue screen.

It occasionally managed to boot again, but the crashes became progressively more frequent. Eventually, it stopped booting entirely and started returning to the BIOS.

Troubleshooting attempts

I've tried several things so far:

• Attempted Windows Startup Repair through the recovery environment.
• Tried uninstalling recent updates through Windows Recovery. (somehow didn't even do anything)
• Attempted to reinstall Windows, but the installation got stuck at 1% and made no further progress.
• Opened Command Prompt and used diskpart to inspect the disks and volumes.
• Ran chkdsk C: without additional parameters. Phase 1 completed, but Phase 2 (checking file name links) appeared to get stuck at approximately 80%. I waited for a long time, but it didn't progress. I'm not sure whether it was genuinely frozen.
• Removed the Intel Optane H10 module and reinstalled it. The contacts looked clean and undamaged, but this made no difference.
• Created a Windows 11 installation USB and booted from it to investigate the storage.

I have not changed any BIOS settings. I've always exited the BIOS without saving changes. I have not switched between AHCI and RAID or selected Reset to Non-Optane.

Current symptoms

In the BIOS, under Advanced → Intel Rapid Storage Technology, I now see:

• Incomplete Optane Volume
• Under Incomplete Volume Member Disks, only a component of approximately 27.2 GB is listed.
• Its status is Offline.
• The previously visible ~476.9 GB storage component is missing.

The situation has also changed in the Windows recovery environment.

Yesterday, diskpart still showed several volumes, including:

• C: labelled OS, approximately 475 GB, formatted as NTFS.
• A 260 MB FAT32 system partition.
• Other small hidden partitions.

I could also list the contents of C:\Windows.

Today, when booting from the Windows 11 installation USB, diskpart only shows:

• Disk 0: approximately 27 GB.
• Disk 1: approximately 7.4 GB, which is the USB stick.

list volume now only shows the USB volume. The large SSD storage and its partitions are no longer visible.

The ASUS logo also stays on screen longer than it used to. When I exit the BIOS, I briefly get a black screen, followed by a blue screen, and then the laptop returns to the BIOS.

The most confusing part is how gradually this happened. At first, the laptop still worked for hours after the first crashes. Over roughly two days, it deteriorated until the large SSD portion was no longer detected.

The timing shortly after the Windows update makes me wonder whether an Intel Rapid Storage Technology (RST) driver or compatibility issue could have triggered this. However, the fact that the large storage portion is now missing even when booting from external Windows installation media makes me suspect a hardware or Optane configuration problem.

My important files are backed up, so data recovery is not my main concern. I'd primarily like to understand the root cause and determine whether I can fix it myself (and also get some data back because I couldn't safe everything unfortunately). I'm comfortable disassembling PCs and replacing components, but I can't do soldering or board-level repairs.

Questions

1. Could a Windows update or Intel RST driver issue cause this behaviour, or does the missing 477 GB SSD portion strongly suggest that the H10 module is failing?
2. Could the Optane volume metadata or configuration have become corrupted even though I never changed the BIOS settings?
3. Is there a way to distinguish a failing H10 module from a problem with the motherboard's M.2 slot or storage controller?
4. Could chkdsk getting stuck at 80% during Phase 2 have been an indication of a storage hardware problem?
5. Is there a safe way to diagnose the H10 module without selecting Reset to Non-Optane or otherwise modifying the existing Optane configuration?

I haven't reset the Optane volume, changed the SATA mode, formatted anything, or reinstalled Windows.

Any suggestions for the next diagnostic step would be appreciated. Thanks!

I opened my Sansui ES-G24F4L’s internal menu when watching a movie to change the brightness and once I mistakenly switched the resolution from 16:9 it immediately went dimly black . I reset the whole pc and can hear the startup noise but the display itself won’t load. Can’t open menu with no hdmi plugged in, tried a reset. I can’t do a factory reset without accessing the menu. I tried a few blind guides to pressing the right buttons but nothings happened yet . Please help

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My abusive ex keeps using temporary phone numbers to reach out to me, I do not want contact and accidently saw her in public. I fear she may try to reach out to me. Any help appreciated, I am currently job hunting so im scared to block all unknown numbers but at this point im desperate.

Recently I've interested myself into making sure my PC is safe from viruses in a more in depth way, one thing I started doing is creating restore points every so often. However, I've heard that the system restore option on windows 11 only restores system files as opposed to everything so I was wondering if there was a way to create a system restore that covers everything, (I know I can archive my important files on an external drive but I figured there had to be a more convenient way)

Hellou, sorry am not super techy. Bad english as well

When: Puter recently slowing down & stuttering. Its been like this at random days a month, I usually could fix it with a restart. For the past 3 months its gradually getting worse, I could fix it, now idk what can.
What: C: often reaches 100% active time usually during start up. After 5 mins, the consistent 100% drops but status fluctuates between the range 45% and 100%, the response times scale from 100ms ms to 5k ms (??) lol. Then after the fluctuations, it consistently goes back to 100%. It goes back and forth, some spikes then a full green graph of 100..

-During this opening apps/games take super long to start. Any process takes long really. Restart helps, but not for long. Also tried windows repairs.

Troubleshooting'd:

• sfc /scannow – earlier scan found corrupted files and repaired succesfully.
• Attempted dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth – says it repaired something. an hour later it shot back up..
• get-physicaldisk – healthy and ok status
• installed a windows update – made it a bit faster but issue still remain
• sysmain/windows indexing disabled - helped back then, months ago

Help:

Wat could cause an SSD to repeatedly reach 100% active time and make windows and apps sluggish, even with alotta ram? What should I check next to help diagnose? Idk if this is a software/hardware issue, storage issue, or somthing else?
-I dont think this is malware too, no signs nor did I download stuff somewhere else. Unless its so hidden 😓

SPECS:

OS - Win11, 25h2

CPU - Intel Core i5-10400 @ 2.90ghz

GPU – Radeon rx 580

RAM - 32 ddr4

Name: Sergei – my son

C drive is ssd, D is hdd. sata. (500 gb of storage combined)

Thank for reading.!!

So I had 16gb of ram (2x8) and I upgraded to 32gb (2x16) and I made sure everything was compatible. After powering my laptop up there was a little X inside my battery icon and my fps was dropping. Every time I unplug the laptop it immediately shuts off too, anybody know how to fix?

I just updated my graphics drivers and this werid bar at the top left Displaying "FPS, 1%low fps, GPU, CPU, DRAM" Information has appeared. Does anyone know what this is and how to remove it? I dont think its from NVIDIA but I have no clue what else could be causing it

I recently bought a third party game cube controller and a Mayflash connector but the controller dosen't want to connect to my computer or my Switch. Do I need to download Zadig or is there something else going on? It was in the right mode when I used it

I'm using a Moto G 2024 Android cell phone and i have notifications turned on for my Gmail but i still don't get anything. I've gone into the notifications area already and still nothing works.

So I've been having this problem lately where my mouse cursor keeps jumping to one corner of the screem, consistently on the same spot. I've cleaned the mouse pad, cleaned the screen, but it keeps randomly tapping the same spot in the corner.

My vivo Y35 screen is not displaying image, but it have tactile feedback, I want to broadcast to my pc with "scrcpy", but usb debugging is disabled. (the screen broked when it fell in water)

My Idea: turn all the volumes up, use the google assist (keepclick the center circle button) and open settings, and activate usb debugging.

Any other idea is welcome, and no, I cant repair the screen hardware lol.

Hey guys, so basically I tried opening up rainbow six siege today but got this error message: Runtime Error! Program: This application has requested the Runtime to terminate it in a unusual way. Please contact the application’s support team for more information. For some side information, whenever I open up Ubisoft, my library never loads so when I play I search up rainbow six siege in my start menu. I already tried going into command prompt and using sfc /scan now and it said it fixed something but nothing happened. I also already tried repairing 4/6 of the redistributables (as for the other two it doesn’t let me). I would really appreciate some help.

Currently using Windows 11, basically what happens is no matter the game (Deadlock, Roblox, League of Legends...) everytime I try playing it it'll eventually crash (usually 5-20 minutes) and give me a BSOD, there's been 2 frequent errors I've noticed, them being PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (0x50), it also says "nvlddmkm.sys", the second error is VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE. I have reinstalled Intel and NVIDIA drivers both manually and through their apps multiple times, it hasn't fixed the issue, I have set NitroSense's mode to performance which also doesn't have a fix, I've set majority to use the 5060, there is no Windows updates to be installed and I am stuck, please help!

Laptop: Acer Nitro V15
Processor: 13th gen Intel® Core™ i9 (i9 13900-H)

165hz

32 GBs of RAM, along with GDDR7

1T storage

Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060

I lost power while my pc was restarting and had to change motherboards but now it says I’m missing system32 boot file. I’ve tried every online guide, please help, I’ve got the bootable drive already

Error:

Recovery
Your PC/Device needs to be repaired
The application or operating system couldn't be loaded because a required file is missing or contains errors.
File: \WINDOWS\system32 \winload.efi
Error code: 0xc000000f
You'll need to use recovery tools. If you don't have any installation media (like a disc or USB device), contact your PC administrator or PC/Device manufacturer.
Press Enter to try again
Press F1 to enter Recovery Environment
Press F8 for Start-up Settings
Press Esc for UEFI Firmware Settings

I am not able to connect my PC with windows 11 to the internet after a move, a new baby, and a few months of the PC being off.

I can connect to the WiFi router, but no internet. I have ran the Ethernet cable to the computer but still cannot connect. The WiFi is working on all my other devices.

Looking for any guidance or help. Google has given me some checks but none have panned out.

Update (fixed):
I tried some of the recommendations in the comments and still could not get WiFi working. I used ChatGPT for about 1.5 hours where it mostly had me testing DNS connections and tracking IP address changes. No real good came of it. I reset my network connection and even factory reset my pc and neither worked. Computer and modem restarts as well.

What worked was routing an Ethernet connection from my Xfinity hybrid router/modem to an old router I had. Then both wifi from the old router and Ethernet from the old router started working.

It’s strange that my Mac Mini and work laptop both have no issues connecting to the Xfinity router, yet my gaming computer could not access Internet. Hopefully this solution could help somebody else in the future!

So I left my wireless mouse on accidentally before going to climb a mountain, I shut the computer and left it as it was. I came back and now it won’t even show the mouse cursor or interact with anything , I have replaced the batteries , turn it on and off , disconnected and connected it. The worst part is that I turned off my laptops shortcuts at the top so I can’t use my mousepad since it’s off , and since my mouse isn’t popping not working I can’t navigate apps at all. It’s an Asus computer btw and the brand of the mouse is “Deal worth” , pls help.

My windows 11 updated last night and I opened it this morning to see that a disk drive was corrupted and my laptop was attempting to fix it after a few hours now its just stuck on this screen I have watched a few tutorials and they said to turn off secure boot in the security tab which I did but then it said to disable a tab called csm? Which this tab does not show up for me (im not sure if it makes a difference but I have a laptop) can someone help me?

Hey guys so 2 days ago I got the Apple Vision Pro. My AT&T Internet Air has been working perfectly before that. Then when I started using my Vision Pro, my wifi will go down for all my devices and show 4 orange blinking lights on the hub. I got a popup on the Vision Pro saying error E013 and that the DNS is down?

I restarted the wifi and it works for a few minutes then does the same thing if I use my Vision Pro.

I’ve changed the DNS to 1.1.1.1 and 8.8.8.8 and it’s still happening.

I called AT&T twice and they said they configured my settings and that it should be fixed but I’m still having the same issues.

If I don’t use my Vision Pro but I use other devices then the wifi works great and normal. What do I do?

recently built a PC (sffpc) in August and it was working fine the first few months. This month, whenever I turn the PC on, the lights inside will turn on and the fans will run but the monitor will show "no display".

I usually have to plug the power cable out of the PC and in a few times before it finally displays something on the monitor or displays the led light inside my mouse.
Is this a monitor problem and or PC problem? How can I fix it?

Specs:
MOBO - ASROCK B6501 Lightning WIFI
CPU - Ryzen 5 7600X
GPU - AMD Radeon RX 9070 16GB
RAM - DDR5 T-FORCE 32 GB 6400Mhz (set at 6000mhz)
Storage - 1TB SSD m.2
PSU - Corsair SF750

Hello, I've recently swapped from a ryzen 7 2700 to a ryzen 5 5500, however, when I first turned on the pc, it enters a restart loop, and after a few tries, it stops restarting, but it gets stuck on the BIOS loading screen. I can also get into BIOS. Sometimes, it gets into "Preparing Automatic Repair" but it gets stuck there.

When I put the ryzen 7 2700 back, it can boot into windows, so I've tried a couple of things (All didnt work)

-Clearing TPM keys through tpm.msc

-Reset to setup mode (Delete all Secure Boot key databases from NVRAM)

-Deleting the previously installed 2700 drivers

-Removing all other USB slots except mouse and keyboard

-resetting CMOS

My manufacturer says that 5000 series motherboards are supported, and it looks to be that way, because I can see my ryzen 5 5500 under CPU configuration, so I crossed out the BIOS being outdated (even if it was, I dont think I can do anything about it because I dont have a USB).

I'm kind of stumped on what to do, so anything else I can try would be greatly appreciated.

Motherboard: JGINYUE B450M PLUS ARGB

Cpu: Ryzen 7 2700 (can get into windows) Ryzen 5 5500 (stuck on BIOS loading)

UPDATE: I've tried updating the BIOS to the latest version to no avail

UPDATE: I've managed to boot into safe mode by turning off quiet mode and enabling CSM. Don't know what to do from here though.

so, I have windows 11 with 16gb of ram and very little c drive space. I decided to do the Virtual Memory settings and have it be custom to like 2349. I want to know how to undo it and make it be like i never touched the settings

i have an acer KG241Q i know it is not the gpu because when i unplug the cable, the line still remains but tho i've found some similar errors looking arround i could not found something like this, should i open up the monitor and check the connections?

a line appeared that takes the colors from other place in the monitor, changing the hz does nothing and i haven't found anything alike, thanks for reading

I have been using the same bluetooth headset (Lecefty 200hrs) with my laptop (HP Victus 12th Gen) since about 2024 with no issues. My earbuds are able to be connected to my phone and laptop with no issues until yesterday. After working perfectly all day, around 8pm I used VLC to play the first episode of a show I'd downloaded and there was no audio. I thought it might have been issue with the download itself and moved to youtube and also had no sound. Checked settings and everything was fine,. Output was to the headset, volume was up a reasonable amount, VLC and youtube were not muted. I checked my phone and I got sound. I'm listening to music on these earbuds as I type this.

I did a quick search and followed Microsoft's guide on checking the output (again) and using the testing feature. Testing worked! I had sound. I watched the episode with no issues and then tried to watch episode two: same issue. Checked everything again. Same thing. Tried testing again, no dice. I looked for another guide that wanted me to troubleshoot audio settings and nothing turned up. I tested the audio again and it worked. I watched the episode until my cat stepped on my bluetooth keyboard and restarted the episode, which lost me sound. I struggled through the whole song and dance again and randomly testing started working again.

I updated then restarted my laptop, my headset turned off then on, followed the suggested prompts on the settings page and either nothing worked or it worked until I finished what I was watching. This is driving me nuts. I've never had this issue before.

Another piece of information to add is that these two devices have been acting up in a different way. I didn't have this issue until I moved into my new place. The bluetooth connection is incredibly weak between devices, like so weak that just covering the receiver on my headset is enough to disconnect devices three feet from each other. I can't go five feet onto the balcony without losing signal. I don't have this problem with my phone. I can leave it upstairs and not have any connection issues all the way down to the laundry room.

I'm aware that connecting my phone and laptop could cause interference and usually have my phone audio muted to avoid that. I'm 90% sure the issue is my laptop.

Does anyone have any idea why this is happening, how it started, or how to stop it? I love these earbuds for their battery life and I want to be able to watch my shows deep into the night without bothering my roommates or neighbors.