Disclaimer: I am a nerd. I spent far too long on this. Everything below comes from public records, news reports, and parts listings, and nobody official has confirmed any of it.

The closest US cousin is the 2015 Golf SportWagen TDI SEL. Both are wagons with a 150 hp 2.0-liter TDI, but the similarities stop there:
Year: Mine is a 2016 build sold as a 2017 model. The US car is a 2015.
Trim: My Philippine Golf GTS is the Business Edition+, which adds adaptive cruise, front assist, and blind-spot monitoring. The US SEL had navigation and a power driver's seat, and its driver-assist features were optional.
Torque: Philippine spec is 340 Nm. US spec is 236 lb-ft, about 320 Nm.
Engine code: Mine is DEJA, an EA288 engine from the Golf VII Variant family. The 2015 US SportWagen uses CRUA, also an EA288.

The VIN puts mine in Mexico (Puebla), where US-market Golf SportWagens were also built. The first eight characters of the VIN match a 2015 US TDI S SportWagen.

In January 2017, the EPA and CARB approved a US fix for 2015 model-year TDIs, including the Golf SportWagen. It had two parts: a software update, then hardware changes such as a new particulate filter, oxidation catalyst, SCR converter, and a second NOx sensor. VW then withdrew its US certification for 2016 TDIs, and Mexican press reported that Puebla-built 2016 Golf TDIs were sold in Mexico instead. So my car never got the US fix.

Probably close at the hardware level, but I wouldn't call them identical. I found no equipment lists or calibration details for the Mexican cars, and a Philippine GTS trim may differ from a Mexican Variant. The 340 Nm rating also hints at different tuning from the US car, though I can't confirm that.

My car has an AdBlue filler, so it uses the same SCR exhaust layout as the US 2015 cars. That's the layout the US hardware fix changed.

The car left the factory as a complete production wagon. Whether its emissions software is the pre-Dieselgate calibration is unverified, and that's the one question my research can't settle.

AI said i should make sure to drive a 30 min + highway trip at least once a week to clean the DPF, but my brother who went to auto mechanic school says i should drive it hard all the time to keep the DPF clean.

I went ahead and deleted my CJAA Golf by myself and tuned it but now when I’m trying to start it, it almost seems like it has a bad battery but it’s on a maintainer and still is doing this. I need another opinion on this.

Edit: this is my first time ever tuning a vehicle so I’m not really educated on whether or not a tune can go wrong and cause something similar to this.

Hello everyone,

I have a 2013 2.0 tdi Jetta sportwagen with a dsg transmission and 143296 miles on it as of when I parked it 30 minutes ago.

There has been a strange, sporadic ticking noise coming from the driver’s side wheel well for quite some time now. It only happens when the car is in park, or neutral, and only when the car hasn’t been driven very far or hard. When the engine has been running or driven for a while the noise goes away. There is also no start up or shut down noise. The ticking take a a moment to start up when the engine starts.

All of the research I’ve done has pointed me to a failing flywheel, however when listening to videos of bad flywheels, the sound is always consistent whereas this seems much more random. I also had a mechanic friend of mine stethoscope the transmission, turbo, etc, and said that everything sounded good to go.

I have added a video of the noise with this video. It was taken directly below the transmission and engine on the driver’s side of the car as seen by the DSG drain/fill plug in the video.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. This issue doesn’t seem to be effecting performance, but I’d like to try and get to the bottom of it before something gets grenaded. It’s also just annoying as hell.

Thanks!

Ok so this just happened to me 30 minutes ago. It’s raining here in California, and I’ve already cleared the tubes before this rain and when I opened the doors I made sure water hasn’t come in but knowing these cars, it’s still a possibility. I went outside and could hear a noise like some kind of pump was running and pushing fluid. I opened the hood and the nose is coming from the left side I could feel a vibration on the fuel filter housing but I’m not sure if that’s 100% the problem. Are there other types of pumps in this area ? The car was not running and for now I’ve disconnected the battery

What egr blanking kit did yall go with?

There was a post for a long time that had a darkside discount and many others but most have been removed or discontinued.

This discount code runs all year long if you are looking for a code.

Discount code is applied automatically for tunes when you check out!

15% all year long.

https://tunezilla.com/tunes/bcalltrack

Sorry for the basic sound question, I am a fairly new with these engines, I do not know if I should owrry or not. The engine was taken apart for head gasket leak, then for subsequent oil leak and an exhaust leak in the engine bay(valve cover replacement). Now after months, it seems to not leak anything, but the high pitched clicking/ticking when accelerating is a bit strange. Should I be worried? It seems synced to the RPM, sound a bit like a loose bolt somewhere...

edit: 2013 140hp 2.0 CR TDI, CFFB

Bought my wife a ‘14 Jetta tdi with 70k miles back in January. Dpf is clogged so I ordered a catless dpf stage 1 delete kit with the egr delete from Stevenson Tuning. I also ordered a universal weld on high flow diesel cat from jegs to cut down on smell because I prefer sleeping in the same bed as her. If I keep the muffler and resonator I’m assuming it’ll stay pretty quiet but does anyone have any sound clips of a deleted car with cats and the rest of the resonator muffler setup? My GLI is catless and resonator deleted with the stock muffler and the turbo spool is pretty loud, I just want an idea of what to expect for her car to see how much it’ll change.

Booking jobs for NE, CO, MT, WY, ID. Beginning to middle of November.

Labor prices (mk5-7) more services are cheaper than individual:
Timing belt: $550-750
Thermostat: $400-550
Emissions corrections(2009-2014 only): $650-850
Valve cover: $400-500
MANUAL TRANS ONLY DMF, clutch: $1100
Turbo: $900-1050
DSG DMF: no.
3L/SUV: no.
Other services offered, contact for pricing.

Most of you know the rest:
Owner provides flat, hard surface to work on. I’ve got the tools.
Barter accepted. (Pew pew[state dependence], skilled metal fab).
Discount through Cascade German.
Referral bonus for previous customers.

Hey guys did anyone build the 2.0l tdi engine before especially on the 240hp tiguan r line version 2019 model

Car shut off in traffic. I replaced fuel pump due to not hearing it buzz. Then relay 109 and the crank sensor. After that still no start. I have no fuel past tandem pump. Not sure where to go next.
Thanks

Hi guys, 2015 vw golf tdi CRUA, stage 2 MR tuning ecu tune through eoc tuning and stage 2 tunezilla dsg tune. I’ve been having a problem where when I’m giving decently heavy throttle after my car shifts it’ll bog and struggle for a second then start back to accelerating. In the video from 2-3 and 3-4 you can hear the bogs. After I rev the car in park sometimes, it’ll do the same bogging as the rpms fall and it almost sounds as if the vnt is closing fully as it sounds similar to when my fuse for the actuator control was popped and you hear no turbo whistle. I’m not sure if this is a tune problem or maybe a crankshaft position sensor issue or what but if any of you guys could help I’d appreciate it. I’m trying to get her driving perfect and have done a lot of work to it.

Found this 2015 TDI with 182,000 on it. The timing chain and water pump were already done. The guy wants $5000. Am I burning myself or this is a solid commuter purchase. I’m mechanically inclined but this would be my first German diesel.

Got a pd130 fabia with an 1856 and all other supporting mods apart from an exhaust..

Every other comparable build I can find has at least a 2.5in straight through or bigger, and im wondering how necessary it is from a power point of view as someone who doesn’t care for noise.

Ive heard that it might affect EGTs and a bit of top end flow but never to what extent, maybe theres too many variables with different tunes / part brands / motor health.

Anyway, I just want to know if my stock exhaust will prevent me from getting the 240ish hp that the turbo is capable of, and if so, how bad is it?

Thanks

I have a 2007 Volkswagen polo 1.4 Tdi diesel
I live in the uk

It has a very strange problem Im not sure what it is, the car starts cold fine no problem
If I turn it off and turn it back on when it is warm it will be fine
However if I turn it off and wait 5-30 minutes it won’t turn on and just crank for ages until the battery dies
To start it again i have to wait for the car to cool down and it will start fine
There is no misfire or loss of power or anything if you drove the car you wouldn’t notice anything unusual at all only when you switch it off
Any advice would be appreciated, also Im able to fix the car myself as I have my own tools

Thanks

2015 Jetta TDI - Gen 3 EA288.

Looks to me to be a coolant line because from what I can see it runs down to the heater support pump on the back passenger side of the block. Anyone else had this leak? Easy/cheap fix?

I noticed it during a routine inspection that my axle was wet, looks like it’s leaking down and off the balance shaft bulge ending up on the axle. No pooling of anything is on the skid pan.

Hey so long story short, I really want a TDI Sportwagen, and I’m very lucky that my dad will be paying for a majority of it, but he won’t buy me anything German especially Volkswagens, after had a couple bad experiences with models back in the day. So I’m just wondering, if this is really as reliable as ive seen, and also the control arms and stuff, that’s what he really hated about our previous vehicles. Anything else I should know would be appreciated, thanks!

Hi, the timing belt was changed at 60k miles (currently on 100,200k miles) and the belt is making this noise. I believe it’s the belt as it’s coming from this area.
The noise is gone once the engine is hot and driven into.
Anyone able to help with what could be causing it and if it’s an expensive fix?
Applying some wd-40 on the belt seems to help it a little on cold start.
It’s a DSG model.

2.0TDI Tiguan. Only happens on cold start and goes within a minute or 2. VW confirmed they have a TPI for this and lubricated tensioner. However noise is back within 2 months.

It only happens in 4th gear when I go over 3k revs I enter limp mode any ideas?

1200 miles there and back. No regrets. 'Stang isn't mine, was a buddy's and he needed it moved to his new place. I'm the "Friend with a Truck" and wanted an excuse to work the Touareg.

It made it there and back in mostly one piece. A week later the thermostat blew, which in turn blew a few gaskets and it was a mess. No worse for wear after repair though so I can't complain.

I was kinda hoping I'd break more, honestly. I need an excuse to pull the engine and get it all set up for the next 250k miles of its life. Guess I'll be waiting a little longer.

Ate In-N-Out four times. The East Coast has deprived me of the simple joys in life.