I pulled the head in my TDI, was getting gasses in my coolant system and overheating… bought all the replacement gasket kit from ID parts. Anything else I should be looking for or doing as far as longevity while I have this all opened up? Appreciate any knowledge or advice you guys can share

Picked up this 2015 6 speed manual last night. Took at quick cannonball run down the I-5 from Seattle to San Francisco last night. I changed the fuel filter in a target parking lot, just for good measure.

Hand calculated mpg was 50 mpg in Oregon at 65mph this dropped to 48mpg in California when I was going 75mpg. Car is awesome! Now to plan a timing belt and maybe a pothole in the future.

I have a 2012 Vw Jetta sportswagen 2.0 tdi equipped with the 6 speed manual, it has roughly 164000 miles, it’s been a while since I checked, I got it from my brother who got it from marketplace, now it had been sitting for 6 months when I got it running and driving and drove it for a month or so and then got my truck back and it sat some more on my driveway for 2 months before I decided to switch back to it, I had gotten it signed back over to me and insurance under my name and I was driving it uphill and I was at about 3600 rpm and the cars engine shut off, I had the radio all the way up and everything went off, I thought maybe I bumped the key and I tried to start it with the trans and it did nothing, I pulled over and tried to start it but all it did was spin over, the starter died and I then got towed home, I checked it for metal contamination in the little tray on front of the engine not the filter and I saw no glitter, I hooked it up to a obdii scanner not made for Vw but threw no code, anybody have any idea what could have caused it to shut off and then just turn over but not start

Not that yall asked, but for context, I’m about to get my first alh swap did, and asked some question about “is there is an engine specific adapter plate I need to keep my gassers 02J” blah blah blah

I thought I was only dealing with P0278. But I had EGR codes Nox sensor amd DPF. Checked the particles data and they were at 30g+ so I forced a regen. First attempt failed because I attempted to drive while on forced regen lol coil light started flashing (limp mode) and regen failed so I started another forced regen which was successful but engine started to rough idle. Drove the car for 10min then it went back to normal for now and I cleared all the codes.

P0278 code popped back. I also have leaky valve cover gasket (bad). Can a simple injector reseal fix the P0278 or I should by a used injector just incase since I have been driving with this code for a long time over 6 months.

Also the timing belt is at -7.29° don't wanna spend the money on fixing it. I woulf rather buy a low mileage used engine. Current mileage is 193000 miles 2016 Touareg TDI 3.0

A coworker of mine has a 2004 Jetta tdi with the automatic transmission and he’s been looking around the Kingston Ontario area for someone to put a delete/stage 1 tune on his car (egr and flap delete already done, runs like shit as of right now). Does anyone here know of anyone who doesn’t charge an arm and a leg for it? Thanks in advance

Is the procedure for a starter replacement the same as the manual version as it is on the DSG or is it different?

It only took getting a 3d printer and kicking the jackstands one too many times to decide on this method.

Hi everyone,

I drive a 2011 Škoda Fabia 1.2 TDI CFWA GreenLine.

The fault code detected by the diagnostic tool is P0234 – Turbocharger/Supercharger Overboost Condition.

When driving on the highway at speeds of 110–115 km/h or higher, and the outside temperature is warm (above 15–20°C), the car goes into limp mode (the glow plug warning light starts flashing) and loses power. As soon as I pull over, turn the engine off, and restart it, the fault disappears and the car drives normally again. However, if I continue driving at a similar speed, the same problem occurs again.

Interestingly, when the outside temperature is colder (below 10°C), the car does not go into limp mode, no matter how hard I push it. I have even driven at a constant speed of 135–145 km/h without any issues.

My mechanic has checked the N75 valve, the MAP sensor, and the vacuum hoses.

Does anyone have any idea what else could be causing this fault?

When car goes to limp mode, icon from picture starts to blink.

I’m reassembling my pump and I can’t get the top back on. I think it’s the emergency stop lever that I can’t get back in place.

Is it supposed to sit in this slot or next to it?

I’ve removed the throttle spring just to have a better view for the picture.

Been having issues with my 2012 JSW throwing intermittent no signal/communication codes to multiple controllers on the vehicle. Will drive the car no issues then in the mornings it will light up the dash like a christmas tree and fire up and shut off. Clear codes and runs fine for a few days. The car did have a leaky sunroof and had the BCM replaced by prior owner. Went thru fuse boxes and relays under dash looking for corrosion and pushed pins/blown fuses. VCDS did have issues connecting to controllers one time then I removed the connector to the gateway module then worked fine. Looking for some advice on where to focus to find a solid fix.

I just want to check I'm not going crazy. (I'm in Canada where we have the DRL feature and I drive a 2004 Golf with a bew.)

First I want to confirm that the dash lights are supposed to be lit when the switch is in the off position and the DRLs are illuminated. I'm certain they're supposed to be on but at this point I feel like I'm just gaslighting myself. Anywho my dash lights now aren't on until I turn my headlight switch on.

But my real question is sometimes when I turn my headlight switch on my dash lights don't turn on and it takes an on and off cycle to get them to work, and the dimmer switch doesn't control the brightness anymore. Is that an issue others have had? Was it just the dinner switch or the headlight and/or dimmer switch?

Thanks in advance.

The wire going to the exhaust flap under my vehicle got snagged it ripped it completely out of the harness side. Where can I find a replacement connector to rewire?

2014 cjaa.

If anyone is in need of a timing belt kit (minus tensioner) I will sell at a discount because I no longer need it. $150

Fits= 2019-2021 Jetta models.

Hi guys,

My clutch failed a few months back on my 1.9tdi pd105 BSW

Paired with a 5 speed 228mm disc.

I replaced for a SMF, Sachs standard OEM equivalent but then immediately regretted that decision as I'm already bored of the power I am getting itchy to fit a 1749v billet hybrid, intercooler, map sensor and turn the power up.

From what I understand even though I have a brand new clutch and fly this would limit me around 325nm of torque and on stock pd105 injectors 160bhp or so.

If I had the clutch uprated I could have had injectors and easily 400nm at 180bhp. Even high 380nmish at 160-170 on stock.

Has anyone just done this anyway? How long has your oem clutch lasted? If it's a case of getting a few months out of the clutch then il just go ahead and change the clutch in a few months. if we're talking immediately slipping then I need to budget a clutch and wait a few more months before doing these mods.

Or consider an engine swap entirely considering engines and gearboxes are cheap here. I'd be £1k in easily for intercooler, turbo, map. Add injectors on could be £1.5k that's getting close to swapping a pd130 into the car.

What do y'all think. Should I go for it? Or nah

Hi! I have recently purchased a 2012 Seat Exeo with the 170hp tdi engine. The redline is at 5000 rpm, but power falls off from 4200. I was wondering if it could be tuned so that it keeps pulling near the redline with the stock turbo and cam profile (so that it behaves normally in the lower rev range).

When I start the car, the engine makes this rattling/clunking noise right as it catches/fires up. It happens every 2nd or 3rd start. Other than that, the car runs fine and I don't hear anything weird while driving. What could it be? Engine mounts?
2.0 TDi 135kw CUPA 2014

It’s about time for me to do an oil change been using Mobil 1 5w40 for the past 2 years but just recently deleted and tuned my 14’ A6 (CPNB) and was wondering if it’d be worth switching to Mobil 1 Delvac 5w40?

​

Car 3.0 tdi BUG Q7 - 501 000km

Hi! I was on highway when i heard plasticy bang. It happened on midsommer day in Spain when people throw firecrackers every two minutes so i was confused if it was coming from my car or it was from outside. Less than minute later car threw a spiral and engine light and did not have power uphill. I stoped and checked if boost hose flew off or something visually seems off but nothing. I turned on the car and error was off until minute more into driving but error came back on. I ordered towtruck to take car home. I checked with VCDS and i had error boost pressure not reached. I changed intercoolers and pipes as intercooler had damage and it was my first suspect. Then i drove home after fixing intercoolers and dpf error came on and car started to vibrate and did not have power. I tought oem dpf has given it all and is choking engine. To drive home i unpluged sensor that is right before dpf and then it vibrates only on idle but at bit higher rpms it drove without vibration. Then it started to smoke little and i would say it was gray colour smoke but smelled like raw diesel. So i changed all injectors to new bosch units as before there was all old original. Values got better on vcds but in cylinder 4 and 5 the values are -5 and + 5 so clearly something is off. I checked fuel rail pressure and it seems to be what ecu is asking I fited new engine mounts, fuel injector return hose with valve, new fuel filter, intank fuel pump, catalysator and dpf but engine still vibrates like misfire. Intake flaps move normally but are full of carbon. Passenger side does not close fully but almost. Driver side intake flap manifold is little wet from bottom and side. No fault codes on ecu which makes it hard for me to search for fault.

Bonjour à tous,

Je rencontre un problème avec ma voiture depuis plusieurs mois. J'ai consulté de nombreux garages, y compris Audi, mais ils n'ont pas trouvé la panne.

Le moteur a du mal à démarrer à chaud, mais aussi un peu à froid. Le démarreur tourne normalement, mais le démarrage est long. Une fois démarré, la voiture a une bonne puissance et roule normalement. Seul le démarrage pose problème.

J'aimerais savoir ce qui cause ce problème de démarrage à chaud.

Merci d'avance pour votre aide.

Hey guys new to the TDI game but not new to VW. I recently purchased a 14 Jetta TDI for exterior and interior parts for my 11 Jetta 2.5. After getting the car it’s too clean to part out and we are wanting another car.

The person I purchased it from had bought it off a friend with the plan to send straight to the scrapper after taking the dpf off. I ended up buying it before he sent it to the crusher. The OG owner had told this person that it had a runaway and blew the motor.

Now I have not crawled under this car or anything. I have opened the hood to hook jump box to lock it, only glaring thing I notice is the glow plugs are missing. It as far as I can tell has not been deleted. DPF is actually there, I don’t think he knew what was the dpf and what was the cat 🤦‍♂️

My questions I guess are:
1) where should I start looking for engine damage. I know gas cars but just bought my fist TDI a couple months back so still new.
2) why remove the glow plugs? Borescope?
3) since it doesn’t appear to be deleted and the anti shutter is still there, shouldn’t the computer recognize a runaway and axe the air flow using that?

I knew runaways would happen on older diesels (I grew up in a farm and family that had a tractor repair shop) but I hadn’t heard of them on new vehicles that have a valve in the intake tract. Sorry like I said new to TDIs. I know basic of how diesels work but it’s new territory for me.

First picture: while installing my 11mm injection pump, I was using a pick tool to seat the belt. It slipped and grazed the surface, enough to make the line seen on the belt. It’s still smooth, no fraying, and it is fully tightened. There’s about 40k miles on the belt, so it needs changing in a year or so. Should I change the belt, or will it be okay?

Second picture: while installing my 11mm injection pump, I didn’t want to take off the valve cover to set that cam tool in the vacuum pump. I did set it to be horizontal though. I made marks, as seen, and the 3rd from the left is/was aligned with the mark on the timing belt cover. Will she be okay or should I just do a timing belt job?

TLDR: should I do a timing belt job and start fresh?

Thanks in advance

Edit: I appreciate all the comments telling me I’m stupid. I know. I already have all the timing tools (like cam holder, injection pump bar thing, and camshaft rotator) but I was just being lazy and trying to save money (seeming as I need to replace the valve cover when I remove it due to the gasket). I’ll be performing a full timing job very shortly. if anyone has recommendations for kits to purchase, lmk