Unfortunately not even 2000 miles after fixing my turbo the deer got to my passat.. the deer is no longer with us though. How bad is it… 67mph

Golf mk4, 1.9TDI engine code AGR. Instrument cluster temp gauge was dead, so I replaced the sensor (OEM code 059 919 501).

Before replacing the temp sensor the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" through VCDS showed the quantities for injector pairs oscillating between -1.88mg/str to 1.88mg/str. After replacing the sensor the quantities stopped oscillating, but values were still somewhat out of spec and the fault code "01268 -Quantity Adjuster (N146) 18-00 Upper Limit Intermittent" was still there (had been there for 2 years and 60000+km).

After cleaning the dreaded quantity adjuster (N146) (which looked absolutely clean) with brake cleaner, soft brush and compressed air (a hail Mary attempt), the "Injection quantity stabilization (injection quantity deviation)" values settled between acceptable -0.35mg/str and 0.24mg/str and the fault code did not return.

I am still puzzled about the oscillating values.

Sorry for the bad pictures, when I was running the tests I did not really think I would be posting/asking about it later.

Is this the right DMF for my 2015 Passat TDI DSG?

A couple years ago i sold the dpf and cat off a jetta to a buyer on here. A friend just bought one and is going to delete, he asked me for the buyer info.

Greetings

Looking to add a TDI to the collection. Looking for Mk7 with a manual gearbox, Golf or Sportwagen don’t matter to me. Im located in Ohio but can fly down/drive back wherever

Thanks for reading

Anyone here driving a caddy 2k?

Hi everyone, I recently totaled my beloved 13 Passat after hitting a deer for the second time in it. I decided I wanted something older and a stick shift this time, so I picked up a 5MT Golf for cheap and am loving how analog it feels so far. I inherited the vehicle from a younger guy who previously got it from the original owner with a blown turbo. From my understanding it’s never been tuned but it’s also straight-piped. Well this kid had a shop install an A-premium aftermarket unit. it seemed to be boosting perfectly fine on my test drive albeit, i’m coming from a stage 2.5 Passat with 200 horsepower so I don’t really have any other stock BEW driving experience to reference.

Well out of curiosity I pulled the codes before I bought it. it had P0299 underboost code stored in there. out of curiosity I ran the Charge Pressure Control basic setting in VCDS, and ever since then the car seems to go into limp mode without fail. I can hear the boost when driving below 2k rpm and then the exhaust tone changes into a rumble beyond that if I have more than half throttle applied. I got to checking charge pipe connections for any obvious leaks, didn’t see any up top. however, looking around the lower intercooler pipe that is fed from the charge side of the turbo there was enough oil to leave a drip on my hand. I realized it doesn’t look as though it’s fully seated, and do my eyes deceive me is that a self-tapper..?

Up top it seems the vacuum lines are visually okay as far as I can see, i’m unsure of the routing on these engines and the proper configuration. Anyway, I also found that the top vacuum hose underneath the connector of the n75 valve was just sitting loosely not connected to anything. Is it possible that this hose being left to the atmosphere is causing the under-boost?

I recently heard the dreaded DMF chatter when I was going to drive to my grandparents house. I’m in college living at a house with a tiny garage and a lack of tools. I’ve work on this car a lot between deleting, timing belt, and all the other service items. I was wondering if anyone knew a shop in the South Dakota Area that would do the work for a decent price. I don’t want to do it myself but if I have to I am willing to.

Anyone know what this loud ticking is only happens on cold start when i blip the throttle it idles rough but when it warms up it goes and runs perfect

AI said i should make sure to drive a 30 min + highway trip at least once a week to clean the DPF, but my brother who went to auto mechanic school says i should drive it hard all the time to keep the DPF clean.

Disclaimer: I am a nerd. I spent far too long on this. Everything below comes from public records, news reports, and parts listings, and nobody official has confirmed any of it.

The closest US cousin is the 2015 Golf SportWagen TDI SEL. Both are wagons with a 150 hp 2.0-liter TDI, but the similarities stop there:
Year: Mine is a 2016 build sold as a 2017 model. The US car is a 2015.
Trim: My Philippine Golf GTS is the Business Edition+, which adds adaptive cruise, front assist, and blind-spot monitoring. The US SEL had navigation and a power driver's seat, and its driver-assist features were optional.
Torque: Philippine spec is 340 Nm. US spec is 236 lb-ft, about 320 Nm.
Engine code: Mine is DEJA, an EA288 engine from the Golf VII Variant family. The 2015 US SportWagen uses CRUA, also an EA288.

The VIN puts mine in Mexico (Puebla), where US-market Golf SportWagens were also built. The first eight characters of the VIN match a 2015 US TDI S SportWagen.

In January 2017, the EPA and CARB approved a US fix for 2015 model-year TDIs, including the Golf SportWagen. It had two parts: a software update, then hardware changes such as a new particulate filter, oxidation catalyst, SCR converter, and a second NOx sensor. VW then withdrew its US certification for 2016 TDIs, and Mexican press reported that Puebla-built 2016 Golf TDIs were sold in Mexico instead. So my car never got the US fix.

Probably close at the hardware level, but I wouldn't call them identical. I found no equipment lists or calibration details for the Mexican cars, and a Philippine GTS trim may differ from a Mexican Variant. The 340 Nm rating also hints at different tuning from the US car, though I can't confirm that.

My car has an AdBlue filler, so it uses the same SCR exhaust layout as the US 2015 cars. That's the layout the US hardware fix changed.

The car left the factory as a complete production wagon. Whether its emissions software is the pre-Dieselgate calibration is unverified, and that's the one question my research can't settle.

​

Car is Jetta 6 2013 1.6 TDI CAYC with ESP

My brake servo broke down because brake vacuum pump started leaking oil into it(found oil in hose going from brake vacuum pump to servo) , now I have to replace both of them.

But I dont understand which is correct part number of servo I have to buy.

Original part is 1k1 614 105 EB , made by FTE, but I cant find it - no new, no used ones, cant find info about official replacements or cross-numbers, its driving me crazy.

Can someone help me identify what are correct part numbers that replace it?

My vin is WVWZZZ16ZDM029631

One used parts dealer told me 1k1 614 106 AK is correct replacement, other 20 or so told me they dont even know

Does anyone know where I can buy flanges that would fit the outlet of the stock CR140 turbo?

There was a post for a long time that had a darkside discount and many others but most have been removed or discontinued.

This discount code runs all year long if you are looking for a code.

Discount code is applied automatically for tunes when you check out!

15% all year long.

https://tunezilla.com/tunes/bcalltrack

Hey everyone,
I own a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta TDI with the CJAA 2.0L diesel engine, and I’ve been having DPF issues lately.
My DPF warning light is on, and the car has been going into limp mode. The measured soot level is around 40 grams. I’ve also experienced turbo-related fault codes P2563 and P00AF.
I’m trying to decide whether I should repair or replace the DPF or go for a DPF delete.
Since I live in Ontario, Canada, I’m also concerned about the legal issues with deleting emissions equipment.
I’d appreciate some advice from VW TDI owners, especially anyone in Ontario.
Is it better to repair or replace the DPF rather than delete it?
How much does DPF repair or replacement usually cost in Ontario?
Could the turbo-related issues be causing the DPF problems?
Has anyone dealt with similar issues on a CJAA engine?
I’m looking for a reliable, long-term solution without spending unnecessary money.
Thanks in advance for your advice!

I recently got a Tiguan like almost 3 months ago and I started noticing that the car isn’t really fuel efficient. Like the most I seen my car get on mpg is 21 on the highway, but the max u get on the street/city is 8-10mpg. Is this normal or can I fix it?

I’m fairly certain I have a coolant leak in my intake manifold/intercooler on my 2015. I’m going to Borasco it later today to try to confirm.

Has anyone replaced this in this group? I watched a video on YouTube seems fairly straightforward although you do need to remove quite a bit of stuff which I am OK with I just did the timing belt four months ago and it’s probably hard to beat that job in terms of technically difficult

I could only find one source for the part in the US online. There are several overseas because the motor is still in use. If anyone has any insights or helpful advice, send it my way! Thank you.

Hello everyone,

I have a 2013 2.0 tdi Jetta sportwagen with a dsg transmission and 143296 miles on it as of when I parked it 30 minutes ago.

There has been a strange, sporadic ticking noise coming from the driver’s side wheel well for quite some time now. It only happens when the car is in park, or neutral, and only when the car hasn’t been driven very far or hard. When the engine has been running or driven for a while the noise goes away. There is also no start up or shut down noise. The ticking take a a moment to start up when the engine starts.

All of the research I’ve done has pointed me to a failing flywheel, however when listening to videos of bad flywheels, the sound is always consistent whereas this seems much more random. I also had a mechanic friend of mine stethoscope the transmission, turbo, etc, and said that everything sounded good to go.

I have added a video of the noise with this video. It was taken directly below the transmission and engine on the driver’s side of the car as seen by the DSG drain/fill plug in the video.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. This issue doesn’t seem to be effecting performance, but I’d like to try and get to the bottom of it before something gets grenaded. It’s also just annoying as hell.

Thanks!

Booking jobs for NE, CO, MT, WY, ID. Beginning to middle of November.

Labor prices (mk5-7) more services are cheaper than individual:
Timing belt: $550-750
Thermostat: $400-550
Emissions corrections(2009-2014 only): $650-850
Valve cover: $400-500
MANUAL TRANS ONLY DMF, clutch: $1100
Turbo: $900-1050
DSG DMF: no.
3L/SUV: no.
Other services offered, contact for pricing.

Most of you know the rest:
Owner provides flat, hard surface to work on. I’ve got the tools.
Barter accepted. (Pew pew[state dependence], skilled metal fab).
Discount through Cascade German.
Referral bonus for previous customers.

Ok so this just happened to me 30 minutes ago. It’s raining here in California, and I’ve already cleared the tubes before this rain and when I opened the doors I made sure water hasn’t come in but knowing these cars, it’s still a possibility. I went outside and could hear a noise like some kind of pump was running and pushing fluid. I opened the hood and the nose is coming from the left side I could feel a vibration on the fuel filter housing but I’m not sure if that’s 100% the problem. Are there other types of pumps in this area ? The car was not running and for now I’ve disconnected the battery