Some kind of diy Cerwin vega ? What are my options to maximize their potential using this peavey 70777275? That's what it came with. Mod the cab into a bass reflex? Or is this cab worth putting a "real" driver in?

Might be a little bit of a stupid question, but i have a dsp which only has one limiter per output channel. I was wondering if it is possible to route the signal through and setting a peak limiter with no other processing, then wiring this output back into a different input and setting everything else including an rms limiter?

The speaker ended up with a 1mm gap. I’m planning a test and a comparison against the Cubo Kick for next weekend.

Im thinking about building horn mount braces like the ones on the void subwoofers.
I want to get them cut from Aluminium and anodise them afterwards.
I thinking this would look fire 🔥.
What do you think about braces ?
What experiences were made ?
How you do it normally? If you do at all?!
I would love to hear your thoughts.

We’re planning to build our first sound system. Our first use will be once a year as a small mobile rig at AfrikaBurn (think Burning Man but smaller and in South Africa). Last year, we never drew crowds larger than ten people, but with a decent sound system, I hope to play for up to a hundred people outdoors.

I added some photos of our rig at the previous AfrikaBurn, it was one JBL EON 615 and a JBL EON518S sub. I wasn’t loud enough, even for the small crowds we drew and we ended up blowing both the woofer and the tweeter on the 615. I have bought a second 615 and a compressor/limiter for the next Burn in case we don’t get to build our own sound by then. Also gives an idea what I mean by “mobile”.

We mainly play bass-heavy music like Jungle, D&B, Dub, UK Bass, and a lot of House, Deep House, and Nu Disco. So, it should be a pretty all-round system capable of delivering a lot of low frequencies.

Since we’re mobile, size and weight are important factors. Previously, we used batter and solar power, but I realise we might have to let go of that or get a much bigger battery and inverter.

Our plan is to use the sound system year-round for fundraising events and rent it out in between. We’re based in Cape Town, and there aren’t many real sound systems, so I think there will be some interest in renting one from us.

For now, we don’t have a budget. We did one fundraising party that just broke even and are planning another. But we’ll have to start small and building the subs first seems to make the most sense.

I like the Cubo designs, and my first thought was to build two and then two more Cubo 18s. My second thought was to build two Cubo Sub with 18” drivers and two Cubo Kick 15s. If we go either of those routes, I was thinking two MT-130s for mid-top/tops would fill the whole frequency band.

I’ve read so many good things about the JMODs that I considered building those, but they seem pretty complex for a first build. Also, with those, we wouldn’t need kicks since they cover those frequencies. It would make sense to combine those with two SKRAMs and then build more SKRAMs as needed. But again, those are pretty complicated for a first build, and both the JMOD and SKRAM are more expensive in parts than the Cubos.

I’d love your thoughts. It’s a tough decision to make because we’re low on budget, we have some carpentry skills but no real speaker building experience, and our use case is also pretty specific.

Please help guide a newbie.

So, I do quite a lot of variety of live PA gigs. Some live bands, some corporate dialogue gigs, etc...

Right now I'm building some JW Sound Solana speakers. I'll probably eventually add subwoofers but don't know which yet. Regardless, some DSP added into my system chain is going to be needed. Technically my Behringer Wing already can output channels separated and processed, but I simply can't trust that as I'll often reset the board for a new gig (then need to reconfigure all output filter settings/routings.

I also have a good-ish (Josephson Engineering) measurement mic that I usually run REW with, so I'd love to just run a room sweep and have the DSP correct things without me attempting to match curves.

So, is it more configurable to have dedicated signal processors like a DriveRack or t-racks or minidsp and then dumb amps? Is it safer to have the protection onboard the amp directly? If one is budget-constrained (slightly) does one setup pose higher costs?

Hey guys, doing some digging before I start cutting wood. I'm building my first real system and want to start small and add to it.

Phase 1 is one Cubo Sub (the 18") loaded with a B&C 18TBX100 (8Ω, 6.2Ω min, 1200W nominal / 2400W program) and one Celestion CKT-TF1225 top (8Ω nominal, 6.5Ω min, 250W AES woofer, 400W EIA system). Phase 2 is a second sub and top, and later I want to add Cubo Kick 15s in the middle.

Use is backyard hangs and small gatherings, maybe a festival camp for 30-40 people. Not a concert rig, I just want it to sound good and not be underpowered. I'll run a miniDSP 2x4 HD for crossover/EQ and have a friend helping me tune with a mic. Planning to cross the sub around 80-90Hz and the top above that.

Where I'm stuck is amps. Budget isn't super tight (a few hundred over is fine) but I'd like to keep it in check:

- Crown XLS 2502 (open box, ~$539) for the sub, XLS 1002 for the top(s) later
- Behringer NX3000D (~$339) with the built-in DSP, or an NX4-6000 (~$469) to cover everything with 4 channels
- CVR D-1002 (~$699). A friend says plenty of people run these without issues

What I keep going back and forth on:
- Is the Behringer's listed 440W @ 8Ω real or just peak, and does it matter for a sub at my listening levels?
- Has anyone had Behringer NX amps die on them?
- Would you take the CVR over the Crown for subs?
- Should I use the 4Ω version of the TBX100 to get more out of the amp?

What would you run? Any gotchas with the Cubo Sub + TBX100 combo I should know about? Appreciate any help.

I'd like to build 2x 2-way tops (passive) to be used for small parties while traveling (PA). I am a house (primarily tech house) DJ. Planning to power with a Behringer NX1000D or similar when traveling by plane. Locally, will pair the tops with a sub or 2 that I would also build.

For the top cabs, I'd like to be able to carry them on, one each between my partner and I. Approximate max dimensions (each): 21" x 13" x 8" (this leaves room for padded bags).

Looking for driver recs (10" + 1"?).

I'm also looking for design recs. I'd like the drivers to be visible or have some other neat cabinet design that is both cool looking and functional.

Budget: $1250 but can go higher if I need to. I just don't want to spend a lot more unless I have to.

This will be my first speaker build. Thanks for your expertise!

A harsh belarusian psychedelic vibe. An event held in the back of a truck at -18°C.

Hello guys i got this 18 Sound 21lw1400 driver and as You Can See the yellow think i dont exactly know How its called ripped all around you should be able to See the Little gap and i thought in theory i whould be able to just Glue it back together im Not gonna give it its Full power annyway so i dont think it is going to rip do you think this whould be possible?
Thanks for helping :)

Five-way system: a 4590 coaxial driver at the top, with work currently underway on the horn.

I really like the sound of the paper 8-inch drivers in these tops compared to the super-fast, crisp, and somewhat harsh "plastic" mid-range section of the coaxial BMS 4590s (though lining the fiberglass horn with bitumen mats did soften that characteristic); the paper drivers offer a sound that is smoother, more "alive," and more spacious. I wonder if it’s possible to swap the HF drivers in the RS2H for something from BMS?

It’s certainly a bit tricky to phase-align them with the Paraflex without an all-pass filter, but I’m managing for now.

Ciao a tutti!

Non sono un totale inetto nelle creazioni audio DIY, ma non mi ritengo affatto un esperto! Dopo qualche progetto ed esperimento realizzato in totale autonomia, e di discreta qualità, mi sento abbastanza maturo per cimentarmi nel mio primo piccolo sound system. Voglio mettermi alla prova, imparare e per poi... molto probabilmente, alzare ulteriormente il livello.... (ma questa sarà un'altra storia!)

Ho bisogno di consigli, disegni, diagrammi e progetti per realizzare un piccolo sound system con queste caratteristiche per me TASSATIVE e irrinunciabili: - Configurazione 2.1: 2 canali stereo più 1 canale mono dedicato al subwoofer. - Dimensioni compatte: speaker enclosures facilmente trasportabili in un'auto familiare. - Low cost. - Estetica aggressiva e accattivante. - Documentazione disponibile: disegni quotati, misure, indicazioni tecniche e link a progetti esistenti.

Inoltre, considerando queste esigenze, quale sarebbe secondo voi la configurazione migliore? - Opzione (A): 2 vie per canale (woofer + tweeter) e subwoofer. - Opzione (B): 3 vie per canale (woofer + midrange + tweeter) e subwoofer. - Opzione (C): 1 singolo driver full-range per ogni canale stereo, più subwoofer. - Opzione (D): altre soluzioni eventualmente più adatte.

Apprezzo soprattutto progetti concreti e collaudati, con link, disegni quotati e indicazioni tecniche utili alla realizzazione.

Ringrazio anticipatamente tutti coloro che vorranno darmi una mano!

Edit: non sono anglofono. Io scrivo con la mia lingua madre e Reddit traduce automaticamente.

A Psy-trance setup: a pair of RS2H units per side and a pair of 15-inch Kubo Kick bins—delivering a fast, dry punch—though there are some issues to address, specifically the need to dampen a rather strong cabinet resonance at 158 ​​Hz. Let's see how four C2D 153 units handle it.

The cabinet turned out to be relatively complex to build. (4 units)

Hi all, before i send this off for repair (will be an open question i know) has anyone had this issue before? I load/ I limit channel limits flash on red and green on both channels, even at low volume, nothing has changed in my system, I have two 5000 vz's, ive tried different xlr cables and swapped power cables with the other 5000vz and still get the still get the same issue so I know its the amp. I know these can be prone to corroded internals but its been kept in dry storage for the 4 years of me owning it.

TIA

Hello!

I'm looking to buy 2 JBL D55 original double 15 inch scoops online, but after some researching I can't find any specifications on the drivers; I know they are probably mid 80's.

Does anyone know of any alternative 15inch drivers that I can place inside the legendary JBL D55 scoops?

Thanks in advance!

Considering buying some empty cabs, anyone know of a modern replacement driver?
Can’t find any info on original drivers other than they were PHL. 
Thanks ✌🏼

Hello friends, I'm a long time soundsystem appreciator, and I'm now pretty keen on the idea on starting my own journey in to building. I'm thinking of starting with a JMOD MEH, because they seem to be amazing, and I could scale easily with it.

My question is about the power of the amplifiers, I saw someone mention a standard thing to do is go for the driver's wattage rating X2 (nominal not continuous? Is that just another way of saying RMS and peak?) so as to have plenty of headroom and not send a potentially clipped signal to your speakers? Or is that more a concern for sub speakers, and a low-mid-High box like the JMOD less a concern?

Any info is helpful thank you bass friends!

Hey yall some people I know own this system and quite frankly don’t know what they are doing with it. I am also a novice and am building my own system but would like to help them tune this. I wish I had more info on the cabinets and driver so identifying them would be great. I think it’s some sort of W bin design on the sub and a cubo kick 18 mid with a MT121 on the tops but I’m not sure.

My follow up question to what are these cabs is what would the ideal crossover points be? 20-80 subs? 80-200 kicks? 200-20k tops?

Thank you for any help!

Cleaned off whatever playa was left though!