Hello :)
I have a Bose Companion sound solution but unfortunatelly it doesn’t work well.
Let me explain the situation.
3 weeks ago I noticed white noise on left speaker and a pop sound on all speakers everytime I turned the system thanks to the control pod. In addition the volume is low. My Bose soundlink mini 2 is much powerful…to give you a comparison
I searched on the internet and found out several similar issues on the same product with the same diagnosis : Capacitor failures.

So I trusted the user feddbacks and sent the logic borad to a professionnal who replaced most of capacitors ( 220 and 1 ) except the 47L 680 6V.
He also replaced the power module and 2 big capacitors. He sent me back the logic board but now I have new issues. The volume is still low and even lower the 15 first secondes when a music is played. The volume slightly increase by itself. Now there are low white noises on both speakers. The pop is also present.
It cost me 72€ so for such “old” system it is quite expensive

I don’t know what to do to repair it !
Does anyone have an idea or suggestions ? Have anyone already faced such issues ?

I don’t wont to send to a recycling process the system because of the issue.

If you could help me it would be very nice :)

Thank you in advance

My amplifier is doing something very strange. After 20:30 sometimes 2 hours if the amplifier is playing not loudly but a moderate volume or low the left rear two output transistors get warm enough for protection circuit to fire for thermal protection.

Does anyone know what the bias levels should be?

Any help would be appreciated

Hi everyone,

I am looking for the Service Manual / Schematic for an Outline Lion's LF 800 stereo power amplifier.

It is available on HiFi Engine here: hifiengine.com

Unfortunately, registrations on HiFi Engine are closed, and I cannot create an account to download it. If anyone with an active account could download the PDF and share it with me (via Google Drive, WeTransfer, etc.), I would be extremely grateful!

Thank you so much for your help!

I have some speakers from a Telefunken boombox studio 1M. The left one is crystal clear, but the right one is a bit muddy. I should open it up, but I can't figure out where how.I tried various things first of all I tried removing those side metal grills but in the end they were only to connect it to a box, It should be tried with that black mask but in the end it was only for the protection of the cable itself at the origin of the cable, Then I tried with the screwdriver because there is a light black shell that would be practically joined to the metal grill that protects the icons. And basically something was moving even though being old, but i'm scared of breaking It. Can u suggest me something? thank you

Appealing for some advice here to see if this is a home repair before I need to bite the bullet to take it in!

A couple channels of my amp seem to be all suffering the same issue whereby sound seems to slowly ‘drop out’ — sometimes cutting out completely. If I turn up the volume using either the main volume knob high enough on the device OR on my phone (controlling my streamer) the volume seems to ‘reset’ and can then be adjusted back to a comfortable level. This is why it obviously seems to not be a mechanical issue (I.e. potentiometer contact issues in the volume knob).

Any ideas out there? Thanks!

Cleaning the mechanism with isopropyl alcohol, removing remnants of drive belts

MANTENIMIENTO Y RESTAURACION

I got this turntable about a year ago and it worked wonderfully, it began randomly having this problem. I even fixed it by pure luck just adjusting the settings at random lol, but it soon returned to this bizarre issue. I am a complete novice, I have no idea where to even start.

Video of the problem: https://imgur.com/a/uYEYJR6

Something online said it might be the tonearm? I dont know what that means. Thank you for your help.

Got my hands on one these first gen 424s. Plugged it in, but no lights fired up. Although the fly wheel spins. The power button seems to work because when I click it off the fly wheel stops. Took it apart to see if anything was blown or frayed. This transistor that had seemed to snap off was rattling around on the inside. Someone on the circuit bending page informed me that it was a mosfet. I can’t seem to figure out what part of the board it would belong to. Old service manuals for the mki show different boards with different markings.

In the “out” section of the board, where the power supply plugs in and all the rcas are, there is a section marked Q7 that looks like where this component would belong. Not sure if anyone here is familiar with working on these.

The photo of the hand is a screengrab from someone on YouTube working on a mki but the board is a little different, missing that Q7 slot .

Also i am not sure if these mki’s have a fuse section, i think the later ones had a built in transformer power section.

Any input on what else could be causing issues would be very helpful. Also if there is anything visually standing out as clearly faulty would be nice to know.

Thanks

I just replaced the belts so they should be good to go. However I was still getting the table error.

The carousel is rotating perfectly fine, but when it gets to the disc I select it doesn’t take it into the player. It seems like it is misaligned by a disc’s width.

I have the cover off so I am able to push the carousel into place when it’s searching for the disc and when I do so, the player grabs the disc and starts spinning it.

Does anyone know how to recalibrate this machine, so to speak?

Edit: I posted a video in the comments to further explain. I also have already tried factory resetting it as my research told me to do

Hi all,

I wonder if the cap i found faulty is really a film capacitor. I'm a bit confuse with those one. i found a replacement i believe but im not 100% sure.
Thanks for any help.

Yes, i know they dont fail often but the channel faulty is always the one with that cap.

My Subwoofer only works in Direct mode, when set to use the Internal Crossover there's no sound. I'm connecting it up using rca Cables to the Pre-out of my Amp.

I've been playing music using Walkman cassette player WM-a53 (the yellow sports classic) through Dell speakers (CN-03h908, powered through USB from a 2 amp charger). I control volume on Walkman, the Dell speaker volume knob is at about 30%. Having had to listen to old lectures, I turned up the speaker knob to 80%. Next day the playback of music sounded chipmunkish, stuttering, interrupted by buzzing and similar noises. I wanted to check different tapes, and the battery compartment, and noticed that the non-rechargeable batteries leaked.

The Walkman audio output is about 10mW. I don't know the speakers' audio amp draw. What should I do, and not do?

So far I’ve replaced the earphone jack, cleaned the volume wheel and nothing, no buzzes, no hums, nothing, I still haven’t figured out the problem

Got this CD player for my reciever the other day, I had imagine it wasn't working/needed repairing since it was so cheap.

It's supposed to spin when retracting and spin when opening the door, however it does nothing, just stays still.

I've already tried opening it up to no avail, I believe the gear underneath the CD cover needs degreased + new grease to get it lubed up to move well, thoughts?

Hi,

I have a pair of Empire S-500 speakers.[1]

I've had them for several years.

For a couple of weeks now, the "active" speaker of the pair has been emitting a static noise similar to a vibration, only when turning them on, for about 5 to 10 seconds, and only if they have been turned off for several hours.

If I turn them on and off in quick succession after turning them on the first time, this noise doesn't happen again.

The audio from the speakers sounds normal and good afterward.

At this link, you can hear the sound I am referring to:

https://vocaroo.com/1d4Jn64KITPk

Does anyone know what this could be and which component inside the speaker is causing this issue?

I hope this topic is allowed in this sub.

Thanks

[1] https://www.strumentimusicali.net/product_info.php/products_id/11005/empire-s500-coppia.html

Hello,

I’ve acquired a pair of Tannoy Mercury 2.5 lately and they have not sounded correct ever since I’ve plugged them in. To me it seems like the tweeters play very quietly, so they are barely audible when a test tone is played through them. Upon inspection it seems that the tweeters have no coating on them whatsoever. When I reference photos from the internet I see silk dome tweeters are shiny, as if they are coated with something. I have attached pictures of my tweeters and a reference image. I have seen some threads on the internet with various ideas, yet without any single answer as to what could be done to solve the issue. I would also be open to replacing the tweeters with some aftermarket ones but it seems to be an even more advanced option as I have no idea how to choose the new ones both physically and electronically. They both measure at precisely 4 ohms and the crossovers look pristine. Have you got any ideas what could be done to fix the issue?
Thank you all for reading

Eu tinha uns LPs em casa, mas não tinha lugar para tocar, até que nesse final de semana ganhei um midi system philips AS 425. O rádio e o toca fitas funcionam bem.

Fui testar o mais importante pra mim que seria o toca-discos, mesmo sem nunca ter mexido com um. Ele girava normal, mas em algumas faixas do LP o som ficava com um efeito slowed reverb e na maioria das outras o instrumental ficava alto e a voz do cantor, quase indecifrável por estar muito baixa.

Resolvi abrir a parte do toca disco para ver a questão da correia e lubrificação. Quando levantei o prato, a correia já pulou e foi aí que eu comecei a me perder, pois nunca tinha visto o interior de um desses e tem poucos tutoriais pra um aparelho de 1996.

Montei me baseando em um tutorial pra AS 405: passei a correia na parte circular embaixo do prato e prendi em um dos pininhos que tem ali. Remontei tudo, coloquei a presilha, mas agora o prato não gira mais.

Mesmo a correia estando inteira e sem ressecamentos, acredito que ela esteja frouxa, pq seguindo uma linha lógica de raciocínio, ela deveria se soltar e prender no "motorzinho" para poder rodar o prato, mas isso não aconteceu nem automaticamente e nem manualmente.

Alguém consegue confirmar se estou no caminho lógico correto? Se não, poderiam me ajudar com esse caso?

Hi all

I have an old 'My First Sony' cassette player that I’d like to give to my young son. The radio works perfectly, but the cassette deck does not, as the drive belts have perished.

Am I correct in assuming that three wheels are meant to be driven? I can see space for two belts to attach to the central drive shaft, but not a third. How should I connect the third wheel (the one marked with a blue 'X')? Should it also connect to the central drive shaft, or somewhere else? And are the red and green connections set up correctly?

Got a hand me down Sony VA8ES AVR but after a couple months of using it, it's starting to act out, it's looping on-off after turning on for a while and then it seems fine for a couple minutes and starts doing it again. At times it'll loop again and just straight up turn off completely.

I've tested it with nothing connected and without doing anything to the AVR after turning it on but it's still doing it. I suspect it's short circuit somewhere in the internal and triggering the protection to automatically turn off the system, i've considered heat & ventilation as well but doesn't seem to be it as i've tested it already.

I just inherited this receiver. One of the channels wasn’t working. I opened it up and dug around and found a blown fuse. What would cause that to happen? I’ve been listening to it for a bit now and it’s been working. Haven’t cranked it yet as I’m worried it may blow again. Is there anything I should be looking at to replace? Thanks

​There is a noticeable power-hum / mains buzz coming directly from the speakers.

​The intensity/volume of the hum changes when I turn the main volume knob (louder at higher volume).

​The hum is present even with no input sources connected.

​Since the hum passes through the preamp/volume control stage, what are the most likely culprits? Could this be failing filter caps in the preamp/power supply rail, a bad ground connection on the volume board, or an issue with the main board?

​Any advice on where to start troubleshooting with a multimeter or schematics would be greatly appreciated!

Hi y'all. I'm writing looking for support on repairing a console record player I picked up last week. This is my first attempted repair on an audio system, and I am aware the big bite I am taking.

The person I bought it off of stated that it was in working order sometime in the last year when they moved. There seems to be a replaced speaker that appears to be from sometime in the 2000s.

THE CURRENT ISSUE: It has a 60hz runaway shortly after turning on and after the tubes have warmed up. Everything I have read online states electrolytic capacitors (per the included diagrams, this would be figure C1). I have yet to put a multimeter to any components as I need a sense of direction where to start. I'm writing here to hopefully find someone willing to provide some support/advice.

One question I have, when replacing the capacitor, would I need a part specific replacement? Or would I be able to splice in modern components and capacitors? I have struggled to find a part specific replication/direct replacement.

If anyone can help me get this playing again, you would be winning me huge brownie points with the lady. She absolutely loves the piece and it fits our style perfectly. Constructive feedback would be amazing. Thanks for your time and support!

I wanted to modify my Sangean WR-11 so that it receives the audio signal from the Bluetooth dongle via the AUX (3.5mm jack).

My wife likes to listen to FM, but I prefer to stream from my computer.

I wanted to set it up so that I don't always have to unplug the 3.5mm jack to switch to FM.

What’s the best way to do this?

My WR-11 can’t receive Bluetooth signals on its own.