A while back there was unfortunate interaction with a speaker stand that sent one of my Wharfedale Diamond 8.2 speakers tumbling. It fell on some things on it's back corner in a way that didn't affect the cabinet much at all, but the highs coming out of the speaker have not been the same since. I decided to open it up and try to diagnose things, and looking at the wiring and passive crossover, nothing is loose or out of place. The wires to the tweeter are soldered securely at the crossover, are about 8 inches long and then are soldered and shrink wrapped to the thinner gauge wires coming from the tweeter. Physically the tweeter looks fine.

Was the tweeter damaged internally by the fall? Tweeter is a Wharfedale 0326H, with a 10-2007 date code, so almost two decades old. I'm not finding much on the aftermarket at this point for that part, especially in the United States. Is there a good chance that a replacement tweeter will fix things, or is there something else I should check first?

Hello. J'ai un marantz pm310 qui a la voie de droite qui n'est pas bonne.

J'ai changé q730, q732, q728, q726. J'ai remis r746 car elle était manquante mais avec une 220ohm 1/4W au lieu de 1/2W.

Je ne sais pas quoi tester ou quoi charger de plus. Le son arrivé mais pas propre.

J'ai pris le voltage aux bornes de r748 et j'ai 0 là où j'ai 4.5v à r749.

Je suis perdu. Que dois je tester et changer?

Merci.

I have repaired a dead amplifier from the late 1970s, and now I am in the process of restoring it. The problem is that its Omron MY2-02-DC6 relay seems to be taking too much time to disengage, so I would like to replace it. It is out of stock everywhere, and direct replacements are also impossible to find.

I am left with two options: buying the relay version with solder lugs/blades instead of PCB pins and sanding them down until they fit the PCB holes, or opening the relay and swapping the mechanical parts with those from another 6V model. I don't like either of these solutions, and the space inside the amplifier is very tight, both vertically and horizontally, thus I cannot use the blade to PCB pin adapter. How do experienced repairers deal with this?

EDIT:

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Terminal arrangement (mine is the MY2-02, but its the same).

Hello, I can do the basics of soldering, but I’m really confused on this old solid-state tape echo I recently got. The standby switch (brown switch in picture) has a broken latch, causing the standby light to stay engaged. This causes the unit to go into “mute mode” and keeps the light on. There are three distinct wires soldered to a single pin on the switch. I don’t know if the old owner tried to do a solder project and failed, but it doesn’t seem right to me. I also found a schematic for a machine that used the same layout of wiring. Sorry if this is different gear than normal posts. Anyone interested in helping? The unit is an Echolette Echo 400 (same wiring as a dynachord ec504). Thank you for looking!

I’ve been having some issues with my Studebaker 2140 boombox lately. More specifically, when it’s in CD mode. The right audio channel is very quiet and crinkly, even with headphones plugged in. This only happens in cd mode no matter what cd I put in my player. Please help.

I recently got these Sony Sava-27 tower speakers and the right side tower has loud screech that consistently plays. So far:
no audio inputs and screeching stays.
Changing outlets doesn’t help.
flipped tower connection cable didn’t do anything.

I’m about ready to take it apart and see if there’s anything obvious like a broken capacitor or connection. Any help would be amazing.

Hey everyone,

I have a Denon AVR-X3400H that I took over from my parents (was sitting in the storage room for 1 year without use). It runs a 5.1.2 setup with B&W speakers.

Every now and then when I turn it on, there's a loud pop from the speakers right after the HDMI input shows up on the display. Then it blinks red and shuts off. After turning it back on it works fine again. It doesn't happen every time. Sometimes it's fine for weeks, then it happens again. The last time was after it had been off for a whole day.

The protection log shows PRT: DC as the last entry.

What I tried so far:

* Disconnected all speakers and reconnected them one by one, turning it off and on each time. Everything worked, but since it only happens every few weeks that doesn't prove much I guess.
* Turned off eARC, no change.
* Swapped the sub cable, no change.

From what I've read, PRT: DC means the amp itself is putting out DC, so I'm guessing a failing part in one of the amp channels. I'm planning to take it to a repair shop, but it's intermittent, so I'm worried they won't be able to reproduce it.

Has anyone had the same thing with a Denon? Did you get it fixed and what was it in the end? Was it worth repairing or did you just replace it? And is it safe to keep using it until then, or am I risking my speakers?

Thanks!

I’m doing a ferrofluid replacement on the right tweeter of my Wharfdale 9.1 Pros because the tweeter sounded more muffled than the other. The ferrofluid seemed quite dry and not plenty, as well as the metal grit around the tweeter. How do I actually successfully get the grit out? The blotting paper isn’t moving it well as it’s magnetised

I’m getting a simple error message post player tries to read the TOC. It’s very erratic, sometimes the disk will play, sometimes I’ll get the same ERROR message. No specific message just ERROR.

Is the lens dying or it’s some dust settling down?

I accidently put power usb canle that looked like 3.5mm jack into the aux jack of the headphones and the other end into my phone (for about 10 - 15 seconds?). Later i realised that this cable isnt aux, its charging cable and damaged the headphones. I tested later with real aux cable - no issues. But when i turn on the headphones and connect to phone (even if not connected, but just the built-in voice) there is a hussing/static noise when there is audio on, where audio doesnt play there isnt hussing.

What componeny did i damage ?

Is there a way to fix?

Can this workaround the waranty ?

The output level of my VC1 is really low. On inspection, I'm seeing this solid brown thing that is supposed to be a capacitor, I think? Did the casing disappear, or is this some special component or spacer?

Hi everyone! I recently bought a set of replacement rubber contact strips for my Yamaha PSR-2000 from Aliexpress because 3 of them were broken, but after installing them, the keyboard works much worse than before.

The strips fit perfectly and look physically identical to the original ones, including the matte black carbon contacts. However, now only one black key produces sound reliably, and most of the other keys either don't respond or behave inconsistently.

The weird thing is that the original contact strips worked considerably better, even though they weren't in great condition.

Could the replacement strips have poor electrical conductivity, or might there be some residue on the carbon contacts? Would cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol help, or could the carbon contacts themselves be defective?

Has anyone experienced this with aftermarket replacement strips? I'd appreciate any advice before I risk damaging them by trying to clean them.

(The left one is the one that I bought)

Thanks!

I've had this set up for about 15 years and I've never had this issue before. I recently moved and when I set up my stereo and turntable I started getting this strange audio distortion that I've never heard before. it happens regardless of whether my turntable is hooked up but it seems to only happen when I switch to phono. I have a ground, it's the same ground I've been using for years. there is a video on my profile where I posted in a different community but I can't share the video on here. I'm hoping somebody might recognize the type of audio distortion that's happening and know where it might be coming from.

To answer a lot of the frequent questions that I got previously- I have a ground connected from the stereo to the turntable. It's just an alligator clip. my Wi-Fi router is in another room, the noise happens regardless of where my phone is, i hear it through headphones as well, and the noise continued when I moved the stereo away from the wall. I have removed the ground and completely unplugged the turntable from both the receiver and the wall, and also unplugged my TV and it doesn't change.

it's making my records unlistenable because all I hear is rumbling and beeping. it definitely sounds like interference but I have no idea where it could be coming from. it fluctuates somewhat when I move my arm around behind it which leads me to believe that something is picking up a signal.

Hopefully some one has seen this before and can help.

I have a new to me RCA RS2534 and everything works well except the cd player. The tray would not open on the 5 disc carousel, opened unit and found drive belt broken. Replaced the belt and now it works. The CD carousel will turn and a CD will load and spin. The laser will read the TOC and run time, it moves to first tract reads it, starts spinning but will not proceed. Cleaned laser sled track rails, applied new lithium grease, put all back together and it played thru all 5 cd`s with no issues. After it stopped came back later hour or so same problem, will pick up CD, start spinning read tract 1 and just spin will not proceed, even if you skip from tract to tract.

Anyone got an idea?

Hey, got a problem i can't figure out. Radio works, play music, it's a good, working unit. Problem is in cassette deck. It eats cassette and does nothing afterwards, not even giving it back.

Already took it apart, tested both motors, checked belt, checked microswitches, cleaned whole mechanism, put new grease. If plugged on desk power supply, whole thing (cassette mechanism only) works, it's moving from start to finish, but in car it just refuses. I can hear small 'click' noises when i press "eject" but that's about it.

Maybe someone here could give me any ideas?

Hello :)
I have a Bose Companion sound solution but unfortunatelly it doesn’t work well.
Let me explain the situation.
3 weeks ago I noticed white noise on left speaker and a pop sound on all speakers everytime I turned the system thanks to the control pod. In addition the volume is low. My Bose soundlink mini 2 is much powerful…to give you a comparison
I searched on the internet and found out several similar issues on the same product with the same diagnosis : Capacitor failures.

So I trusted the user feddbacks and sent the logic borad to a professionnal who replaced most of capacitors ( 220 and 1 ) except the 47L 680 6V.
He also replaced the power module and 2 big capacitors. He sent me back the logic board but now I have new issues. The volume is still low and even lower the 15 first secondes when a music is played. The volume slightly increase by itself. Now there are low white noises on both speakers. The pop is also present.
It cost me 72€ so for such “old” system it is quite expensive

I don’t know what to do to repair it !
Does anyone have an idea or suggestions ? Have anyone already faced such issues ?

I don’t wont to send to a recycling process the system because of the issue.

If you could help me it would be very nice :)

Thank you in advance

My amplifier is doing something very strange. After 20:30 sometimes 2 hours if the amplifier is playing not loudly but a moderate volume or low the left rear two output transistors get warm enough for protection circuit to fire for thermal protection.

Does anyone know what the bias levels should be?

Any help would be appreciated

Hi everyone,

I am looking for the Service Manual / Schematic for an Outline Lion's LF 800 stereo power amplifier.

It is available on HiFi Engine here: hifiengine.com

Unfortunately, registrations on HiFi Engine are closed, and I cannot create an account to download it. If anyone with an active account could download the PDF and share it with me (via Google Drive, WeTransfer, etc.), I would be extremely grateful!

Thank you so much for your help!

I have some speakers from a Telefunken boombox studio 1M. The left one is crystal clear, but the right one is a bit muddy. I should open it up, but I can't figure out where how.I tried various things first of all I tried removing those side metal grills but in the end they were only to connect it to a box, It should be tried with that black mask but in the end it was only for the protection of the cable itself at the origin of the cable, Then I tried with the screwdriver because there is a light black shell that would be practically joined to the metal grill that protects the icons. And basically something was moving even though being old, but i'm scared of breaking It. Can u suggest me something? thank you

Appealing for some advice here to see if this is a home repair before I need to bite the bullet to take it in!

A couple channels of my amp seem to be all suffering the same issue whereby sound seems to slowly ‘drop out’ — sometimes cutting out completely. If I turn up the volume using either the main volume knob high enough on the device OR on my phone (controlling my streamer) the volume seems to ‘reset’ and can then be adjusted back to a comfortable level. This is why it obviously seems to not be a mechanical issue (I.e. potentiometer contact issues in the volume knob).

Any ideas out there? Thanks!

Cleaning the mechanism with isopropyl alcohol, removing remnants of drive belts

MANTENIMIENTO Y RESTAURACION

I got this turntable about a year ago and it worked wonderfully, it began randomly having this problem. I even fixed it by pure luck just adjusting the settings at random lol, but it soon returned to this bizarre issue. I am a complete novice, I have no idea where to even start.

Video of the problem: https://imgur.com/a/uYEYJR6

Something online said it might be the tonearm? I dont know what that means. Thank you for your help.

Got my hands on one these first gen 424s. Plugged it in, but no lights fired up. Although the fly wheel spins. The power button seems to work because when I click it off the fly wheel stops. Took it apart to see if anything was blown or frayed. This transistor that had seemed to snap off was rattling around on the inside. Someone on the circuit bending page informed me that it was a mosfet. I can’t seem to figure out what part of the board it would belong to. Old service manuals for the mki show different boards with different markings.

In the “out” section of the board, where the power supply plugs in and all the rcas are, there is a section marked Q7 that looks like where this component would belong. Not sure if anyone here is familiar with working on these.

The photo of the hand is a screengrab from someone on YouTube working on a mki but the board is a little different, missing that Q7 slot .

Also i am not sure if these mki’s have a fuse section, i think the later ones had a built in transformer power section.

Any input on what else could be causing issues would be very helpful. Also if there is anything visually standing out as clearly faulty would be nice to know.

Thanks