Money aside, for me personally I feel like the Coyote is just a bit too fast to properly enjoy and have fun with on the street in my area full of mostly back roads and twisties. I would love an S550 but I feel like it may be too much.

I'm considering a 3V or New Edge and doing an N/A forged motor build with it. I guess the other option would be an S550 and leave the motor alone and go with handling mods. How bad are solid rear axles in comparison for back roads? I really don't drive that hard on the twisties roads anymore like I used to when I was younger. For reference, my only car I've had up to this point is a tuned 2006 Subaru STi, so I need a RWD V8 in my life.

I have an s550, an ecoboost unfortunately cause my dad was cautious of the whole GT side of it, now he says that he says I can look for a GT if I want to, I’ve been looking at the 2014 GT’s and I love the exterior, the interior is a bit of a turn off but nobodies inside but me, is the s197 the better option or should I stick to looking at s550 GT’s?

I have 06 Mustang GT with an automatic transmission I’ve been thinking about going full bolt on with some cams in the future. When should I upgrade fuel injectors along with the fuel pump since it’s still stock. I want to make sure I do it right the first time before I put money into something I didn’t have to put money into to begin with😂

Recently got a lund tune and I’ve noticed that the shifts have gotten a lot harder. It does shift faster, but the 2-3 shifts feel wild, I’m like damn 😭 Put the video for reference, if you don’t have anything helpful to say then don’t say it, tired of the Reddit police commenting on my posts lmao

My thought was to use 3m spray adhesive or something similar

Looking for some advice on my 2005 Mustang GT.

I've been chasing a low idle issue and can't seem to figure it out. The car idles around 500 RPM, which already seems lower than it should be. When I turn on the A/C or roll the windows up, the RPM drops even further, sometimes to the point where it feels like it's about to stall.

At first, I thought it might be a vacuum leak because I can kind of hear what sounds like one, but I've checked all the hoses I can find and they all look good. No cracks, splits, or obvious damage anywhere.

Just to clarify, It only seems to happen when electrical loads are added, like the power windows or A/C.

My next step is cleaning the throttle body, but beyond that I'm not really sure where to look.

No check engine light at the moment.

Has anyone with a 4.6 3V had similar symptoms? What ended up being the cause?

Thanks in advance.

2015 v6. Was washing and the radio was On. Suddenly the radio stopped working and it won't start. There was a clicking sound when trying to start but even that is gone now.

Weirdly only one front light is on.

I bought this Mustang for 16k at 63k miles. Not sure if it good deal or not but I just wanted to dip my toes in the water before I go buy a c7 in the next year or so. I bought this from the dealership and thought everything was stock until my friend told me it wasn’t. What has been done to this? (Also not sure exactly what I’m supposed to be looking for)

Hey guys! I recently bought a used 2013 v6 and in unable to figure what what these aftermarket parts are. In pictures 1 and 2 there’s a cable rubbing under the steering wheel, and in pictures 3 there’s a tube that sticks out of the bumper, I’ve kept the picture 1 & 2 unplugged and I’m not sure what the tube in picture 3 is for. Any suggestions/help would be appreciated.

I recently purchased a 2013 Mustang GT online from a dealership in Houston, TX. I live in Akron, OH and am flying down on the 29th to pick it up and drive it back home.

I'm not a fan of those side window louvers someone installed on it and am wondering how I can remove them. They're just held on with double-sided tape, right? Can I just pull to remove them? Should I heat the louvers with a heat gun first? Does the tape stick to the window glass or actually to the paint?

Thanks.

Amazing, beautiful car!

A couple cars got hit in my apartment complex. I guess they decided to focus on mine.

Stay safe out there, gentlemen

HEY GUYS!! after a long journey and months of patience i finally got the mustang i wanted!
90k miles
V8
1 owner

I just wanted to make this post to say thank you to the community and ask some questions.
Tools
- jack
- tool kit
- proper oil
- etc.
i just need help finding the right things to keep my mustang in great condition! additional info in helpful!!

Finally proud to call myself a member of this stable, riding in my new daily driver Stripey the 5.0! I’ve always loved Mustangs more than almost any other car out there and genuinely overjoyed to finally own one.

Even though I used to daily a c205 merc coupe, I dare say the interior in my Stang with the double cowl dashboard, hefty leather handbrake, tiny touch screen and leather accented upholstery just screams muscle unapologetically, this car is bold, brash and unafraid to just exist as is.

Overjoyed to finally be a Stang owner, this is just one of many down the road I hope 🙏

Ceramic Coating done ☑️ on my Mustang GT 2026.

OEM Mach 1 5 spoke wheels and Bridgestone Blizzak 6 (255/40r19 and 275/40r19) fit the Dark Horse perfectly! Ford was selling the wheel kit on eBay for $550, it came with the wheels and center caps. I had to switch the included S550 TPMS for S650 ones though.

Following the rules!

Im stuck between 2 options either a 2024 mustang gt or a 2021 mustang mach 1 each has their own pro and cons the 2021 mach 1 has more available parts in both body wise and engine and transmission wise but the 2024 mustang gt doesnt have any body parts yet and let alone othwr ecu and electronic problems theyre both the same price in the market the 2024 gt has better and more good looking interior but the 21 mach 1 doesnt and the 21 mach 1 is harder to sell in future i need help thank u

I wanted to share something I discovered on my 2017 Mustang EcoBoost that might save other S550 owners a lot of frustration.
For nearly nine years, I’ve had an annoying rattle coming from the upper dashboard. It sounded like it was coming from the center speaker grille, windshield defroster trim, or the upper left corner of the passenger-side dashboard.
The strange part was that I could press almost anywhere on the upper dashboard and the rattle would stop.
Over time, I tried tracking it down by checking the plastic trim, retaining clips, and felt padding. Most recently, I removed the center speaker grille, replaced the deteriorated factory felt, added anti-rattle tape to contact points, and made sure all the clips were properly installed.
It helped some, but the rattle was still there.
Here’s where things got interesting.
While retrieving a dropped trim clip, I had the glove box lowered and the lower liner pulled down. I reached up underneath the passenger-side dashboard and noticed an angled metal support bracket running upward toward the back-left corner of the passenger airbag area, immediately to the right of the center speaker grille.
The bracket appears to be Ford’s passenger-side instrument panel brace assembly, part number FR3Z-78045D56-B.
I noticed a small bronze/copper-colored nut with a 7 mm hex head securing the bracket.
When I tapped the metal bracket, I heard the exact same rattle I’d been chasing for years.
Then I tried something.
I held pressure against the bracket with my finger while tapping the front-left corner of the passenger dashboard.
Absolutely no rattle.
I released the pressure, tapped the dashboard again, and the rattle returned.
Using a short ¼-inch ratchet with a 7 mm socket, I was able to reach the fastener and found that it would tighten approximately another quarter-turn.
Afterward, I tapped the dashboard repeatedly.
No more rattle!
A few things worth mentioning:
You can access the area by lowering the glove box and pulling down the lower liner. No dashboard removal was necessary for my inspection.
It’s a tight, mostly one-handed job. I have fairly skinny arms and hands, which helped.
A longer extension with a swivel socket might make access easier.
The fastener is a small bronze/copper-colored 7 mm hex nut.
The bracket runs diagonally at roughly 45 degrees toward the firewall.
I’ve been able to reproduce the rattle at a specific metal component, stop it by applying pressure directly to that component, and eliminate it after securing the fastener.
If you’ve been chasing an S550 dashboard rattle that disappears when you press on the upper dash, this bracket is absolutely worth inspecting.
I can’t say whether this is a widespread issue or something unique to my Mustang, but after nine years of listening to this thing, I figured it was worth sharing.
Hopefully this helps somebody else who’s been chasing the same damn noise!

Love my 65

I've finally detailed the new mustang.

It's had a few hiccups along the way since I've bought it. But nothing major (in my book of major fixes).

The driveshaft I've learned has a kind of CV boot on it. And that boot ripped. So I just bought a new single piece driveshaft.

I've still have yet to buy new tires for it. Mostly because it's been my daily and I've been doing a lot of stuff.

I've detailed the interior a bit. And replaced the center vents. Since my last post. Making it pretty presentable.

Although the steering wheel has seen better days. I might do a leather wrap in the future.