Recently had my first overheating incident on my ‘74 Valiant. Was driving home from work and the car was running fine. When I parked and shut off the engine, I was greeted with a cloud of steam from under the hood. After letting everything cool down, I looked under the hood and unsurprisingly saw antifreeze sprayed everywhere.

Luckily I don’t think the engine suffered any damage. (Slant 6, 198) I topped off the fluid (it still had most of it) and started it up for a few minutes to look for leaks and she ran perfectly fine.

So my question is; what would be the best replacement radiator for the car? I’ve been looking around online the last few days and have seen tons of configurations, but none quite the same as the original. (Upper and lower on the passenger side, transmission lines in the bottom, overflow tank to the passenger side, etc.)

I honestly have no idea where to start at this point and am still new to mopar cars, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Anyone else waiting on the latest TIPM backorder? The part was due to be released Oct 15

I have a 1991 dodge w250 with the late 360 la with the Throttle body. A couple weeks ago, i was driving regularly, and she started idling rough, and on the ⅛ mile back to the house, it backfired 3 times from trying to take off from a stop. Been trying to diagnose it for a while now, has good fuel, redid the throttle body's jets because the o rings were shot and used to put a lot more fuel than needed but after reinstalling the throttle body it wont start at all and has same issues when cranking. When cranking, it'll wait till your done cranking and it will snort a bunch of unburt fuel smoke out of the tbi. Did a compression test and it has plenty good (about 130). When I unplug the 2nd and 4th spark plug wires it doesnt snort any smoke but still obviously wont start. Have replaced the key switch, didnt change anything. Fuel amount seems good, it has air and fuel so that points me to spark but it is in fact in good time, we checked last week. Any help is appreciated because I cannot figure this thing out.

Hey folks,

A few months ago a friend borrowed the car and forgot to pull the handbrake up. He has been admonished but the following drive I noticed a knocking that increased in speed as I accelerated, disappearing at speed, and reappeared when decelerating, where it also slowed down.

I took the car to get the drum brakes checked out and they said that there was some minor warping, but nothing else had changed since the last check. I said ok, good excuse to get the brakes upgraded to discs next year.

2 hours of driving over 3 drives and it disappeared. Completely forgot about it, assuming it had been brake related and it was tightened up when my mechanic put them back on.

Tonight I went to move it down the block. It was colder than usual but otherwise that was it.

The 30 second drive, there's the knock again. It quiets off near the end of the drive, but was pretty loud at first.

Piston slap? Bearings? I'm guessing it wouldn't be drivetrain because it was intermittent. Thankfully it's not there when parked.

TLDR; intermittent knocking that speeds up during acceleration and slows down during deceleration. It is not there during idle or driving at speed.

Is there a specific oil recommendation for older cars? 1963 Plymouth Sport Fury, 383 (63 on the engine but not original).
Thank you

Had a great time. Weather scared off a ton of people, but many pulled through and made the best of it.

Took off the links so I could see if it was a shifter or a trans problem... The shifter has been greased and now works relatively good. The trans however, does not. 1st-4th work fine, if you shimmy the driveshaft. Reverse moves, but it doesn't like to. I was tapping it with a hammer to see if it moved at all, which it did. But, you'd have to tap it pretty hard for it to move much, I stuck to 100 light swings instead of 3 good swings, as I know hitting a trans with a hammer isn't probably the best idea.

Why might this be? Has the truck for a few years, it's been sitting for all of em. Recently go back to work on it. Reverse worked at first, now it just, doesn't. Id assume this kind of stuck won't just free up with a bit of movement or running but. Do y'all know of anything, maybe it's like a common problem, that might explain this? Please tell me I can disassemble in the truck if I gotta disassemble it. Doing my 3rd big car job this year was not on my bucket list. 147k on the truck, assuming stock motor stock trans. Unk fluid condition, but I doubt it would be the sole reason reverse was so stiff, unless it fucked up a seal. Would working it back and forth help? Maybe clean around the area and work it back and forth, then add new fluid? What can I do?

TLDR: A833 won't shift into reverse. What can I do to solve this, preferably, without ripping the whole trans out.

Went for a cruise today, been too long, don't mind the dust

I thought I had walked this entire massive show but I missed all of these

Can someone please point me in the direction of getting a new crank pulley? looking on summit racing and they don't have anything specifically for the 318 with the serpentine setup. I need it for balancing my crankshaft.

A huge show with plenty of Mopars.

Restored over a 25 year period / Engine Block manufactured in 08/1967

Owner: Wayne Graber