So I have had two diesel engines in past few years and both of them behaved the same: sometimes, while I brake and press clutch at the same time and keep clutch pressed, engine RPM drops to 500–600 but as soon as vehicle stops, the engine idles normally, like 825 to 850. First car with those symptoms was Nissan Primera p11 with an engine CD20T from year 2001 and the second car is Hyundai Trajet with an CDI engine D4EA year 2002.

The best thing is, it doesn’t happen always it happens only sometimes most of the times it’s while braking to a traffic stop. And this really bugs my mind. Also, the engine never stopped and was needed to start all over again - it just drops RPM below 600.

What in the world could be the reason for that?

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Well, it doesn't need to. But I just don't have any use for it anymore. I drive it every few weeks for no reason other than I like it.

I used it to haul a hobby vehicle, but I sold that a few years back. 2004 F550 w/ 178k. Never tuned. Bulletproof Diesel oil cooler relocation and oil bypass filtration. New injectors, transmission rebuild, tires, and service bed within the last 10k miles. I did a bunch of other upgrades and swaps over the years - turbo, hardened y-pipe, mishi radiator, 6.4 starter, FICM, coolant filtration system, hardened EGR cooler, EGR bypass, the guts of the catalytic converter mysteriously fell out... 4.88 rear end for that extra mpg :) . Always starts immediately. Most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

I don't expect to find a buyer here. I am mostly just lamenting. I might end up missing this truck more than the armored vehicle that I trailered with it.

Regarding a GHG14 platform: Under heavy hill climbs, the EGR valve commanded position remains around 69% for most of the pull. Additionally, under load on flat roads, the command hovers between 40% and 60%.( occasionally goes 0-40% also).Is this expected MCM mapping strategy, or does this indicate an underlying issue?

Considering a 2026 Denali Ultimate, but undecided between the 6.2L V8 (premium gas recommended) and the 3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel inline-six engine.

I’m inexperienced with diesel engines but appreciate the basics - better longevity, better highway efficiency than the V8. I typically do 25K miles a year.

What is the better option? Is it purely opinion? What’s the expected difference in cost of ownership (if diesel ever goes down)? Is there anything specific I should consider that I don’t know about?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Does anyone know any shops in LA or OC that would install a downpipe and egr delete to my bmw 335d?

2011 6.7 F250. Would you run?

Curious as to what the value is on this truck! Truck is a 06 with a 5.9HO and 4 speed auto. 84k miles, one owner, all maintenance done when needed. QCSB completely rust free. Body damage includes driver side front fender, ding in rear bumper, and both corners of the top of the cab from jack knifing a 5th wheel. Other than that, a very clean truck it looks like. I haven’t crawled under the truck physically yet but the only thing I seen was the rear differential on the pinion side was leaking. But just got all fresh fluids. Located in MN but was a snowbird truck so it lived its winters in AZ. Any info is much appreciated! We tentatively agreed to 22, kbb says anywhere from 15-18, and NADA states average retail is 21.5.

Live in the phx valley and wanting to delete my truck. Is there a trick to registering the truck outside of the epa control zone? Do I have to go buy property up there or is there a work around. Thanks

Not looking to do any conversion just wanting to add a little wvo to my fuel tank. How much could I safely add without any issues? What else should I add? I'm not looking to run large amounts of WVO, just get rid of excess cooking oil from around the house

Hi folks, I'm a mechanic specialized in Marine Outboards (Yamaha,Suzuki,Evinrude certified Technician) but I have basically no experience in diesel engines so I need some help.

I've bought a 00 f350 7.3 Powerstroke about 3 months ago and the truck ran perfectly fine until 2-3 days ago (Temperatures went from 15 celcius ''60 farenheit'' to around 2 celcius ''36 farenheit'') . I didn't used the truck for about 2 days prior to issues and when i went to start it 2-3 days ago it felt like i had fuel depression since i had to crank it for about 6-8 seconds before it started, had some white smoke then died, tryed to crank it again but batteries went very low on voltage so I've investigated : Realized Battery on driver side had loose connections so i thought the loose battery probably didn't charged on alternator current with bad connections and before i've parked it the connection worked again and it drained passenger side battery ect... So i've uplugged both and charged them seperately at 2AMP for about 12 hours.

Next moring I went to start the truck again, switch on/off few times to let the glow plugs do their things, Had to crank again 6-8 seconds before it starts , white smoke again going away gradually for about 10 seconds, left the truck idling for 10 minutes, first 2-3 minutes a little bit of white smoke came back occasionally but for the whole 10 minutes it sounded a bit weird ''very little misfires'' , went to work with the truck and it ran/sounded fine. After my shift it did the exact same thing.

This morning the truck cranked again around 6-8 seconds before it started, white smoke 10 seconds, let it idle & went inside the house 10 minutes, when i came back outside there was a lot of white smoke and the truck idled like crap, sounded like idling on 4-5 cylinders, gave it some throttle and wouldn't rev so i turned it off and went to work with my other truck. When I came back home I couldn't crank it so I don't know if my batteries are too low again (My digital chargers are at my camp 2h away so i'm stuck with 2 old a** Chargers with no damn voltage/charge meters/indicators) so its charging right now I just hope I don't have a leaking injector that created hydrolock on a cylinder.

Oh yeah also : I have a Flashpaq F4, The truck tune was Performance, before i've tryed to crank it tonight i flashed it on stock tune so there's less fuel injection on startups and idle it might help.

My batteries might be an issue and I've just ordered 2 brand new ones 1h ago, I'll get em tommorrow pm, but once charged the starter had full usual power and rpm and motor ran fine at start this morning before it started to run like crap few minutes later so I might have other issues...

What could it be ?

Bad GPs ? Injector seals ? GPs connectors or wiring going through the Valves cover gaskets?

If so.. how do I diagnose theses efficiently?

Sorry for the long text here I'm looking to give much info as possible, and sorry if my englishisin't perfect I'm a frenchie lol :P

Thanks

Chris

I own a 94 K3500 dually with a turbo 6.5. I like the truck a lot. It's manual. It is not my daily and one of 3 of my vehicles. The main reason I'm looking into this is because I can and it would be fun/cool. I know in 94 that was the first year of the DS4 electronically controlled rotary IP. I think that would probably my main roadblock. At this time I dont want to swap to a mechanical IP.

Im looking for anyone who has tried this before or would have useful information for me. I have researched a few options: veggie oil filtered, make bio diesel from veggie oil, black diesel which probably won't work, and distilling motor oil to make diesel.

Any input which can be provided would be appreciated.

Looking at buying this one. 148k miles, 2011 (built June of ’11) Lariat. Southern truck with decent maintenance records. talked down to $24k, Which is slightly under KBB.

Thoughts? I know the main issues associated with these 6.7s, but it is built post April of 2011, which from my understanding is after the valve seat issues. Bone stock, he is older and going to let me deep dive into paper copies of maintenance stuff tomorrow if I go check it out. I know he’s had regular servicing of oil and fuel filters from what he’s told me, but probably nothing done to address potential turbo, CP4, or CCV issues, and I’ll need to double check if injectors have been replaced since crossing this mile threshold. If these items all seem to be in good shape, is it worth it? Should I try to get him even lower?

Let’s hear what you guys think.

Looking at picking up a 2008 F350 with the 6.4 Power Stroke. One owner, 109K miles, asking $16,500

Went through the Carfax and the maintenance history actually looks pretty solid. The original owner averaged around 5,700 miles a year, with pretty regular service intervals throughout its life. Oil changes, fuel filters, transmission service, etc. It did have a radiator replaced around 16K and some turbo work done around 39K, both of which caught my attention.

I know the 6.4 is cursed, trust me. I’ve heard all the horror stories, but I also know just as many people who’ve gotten 250-300K+ miles out of theirs as I do people who’ve had them blow up long before that.

I’m not going into this thinking it’s some bulletproof engine, but the mileage, single ownership, and maintenance history have me at least considering it.

Curious what you guys think. Would you even entertain buying one with this kind of history? Or forget it entirely?

Looking for better insights on whats the pay look like for CN owner operator from calgary or alberta looks like?
Pros and con

I’d like to hang out in trucks, or ride along on trips that will bring me back the same day or overnight. m 48 Not looking for $

I have to say that I’m rebuilding this turbo because the variable geometry veins were sticking. This is after some wire wheel and flap disc. Is this thing too far gone?

Does this sound like a healthy 5.9 Cummins motor