Live in the phx valley and wanting to delete my truck. Is there a trick to registering the truck outside of the epa control zone? Do I have to go buy property up there or is there a work around. Thanks

2011 6.7 F250. Would you run?

Considering a 2026 Denali Ultimate, but undecided between the 6.2L V8 (premium gas recommended) and the 3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel inline-six engine.

I’m inexperienced with diesel engines but appreciate the basics - better longevity, better highway efficiency than the V8. I typically do 25K miles a year.

What is the better option? Is it purely opinion? What’s the expected difference in cost of ownership (if diesel ever goes down)? Is there anything specific I should consider that I don’t know about?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Curious as to what the value is on this truck! Truck is a 06 with a 5.9HO and 4 speed auto. 84k miles, one owner, all maintenance done when needed. QCSB completely rust free. Body damage includes driver side front fender, ding in rear bumper, and both corners of the top of the cab from jack knifing a 5th wheel. Other than that, a very clean truck it looks like. I haven’t crawled under the truck physically yet but the only thing I seen was the rear differential on the pinion side was leaking. But just got all fresh fluids. Located in MN but was a snowbird truck so it lived its winters in AZ. Any info is much appreciated! We tentatively agreed to 22, kbb says anywhere from 15-18, and NADA states average retail is 21.5.

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Well, it doesn't need to. But I just don't have any use for it anymore. I drive it every few weeks for no reason other than I like it.

I used it to haul a hobby vehicle, but I sold that a few years back. 2004 F550 w/ 178k. Never tuned. Bulletproof Diesel oil cooler relocation and oil bypass filtration. New injectors, transmission rebuild, tires, and service bed within the last 10k miles. I did a bunch of other upgrades and swaps over the years - turbo, hardened y-pipe, mishi radiator, 6.4 starter, FICM, coolant filtration system, hardened EGR cooler, EGR bypass, the guts of the catalytic converter mysteriously fell out... 4.88 rear end for that extra mpg :) . Always starts immediately. Most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

I don't expect to find a buyer here. I am mostly just lamenting. I might end up missing this truck more than the armored vehicle that I trailered with it.

Does anyone know any shops in LA or OC that would install a downpipe and egr delete to my bmw 335d?

So I have had two diesel engines in past few years and both of them behaved the same: sometimes, while I brake and press clutch at the same time and keep clutch pressed, engine RPM drops to 500–600 but as soon as vehicle stops, the engine idles normally, like 825 to 850. First car with those symptoms was Nissan Primera p11 with an engine CD20T from year 2001 and the second car is Hyundai Trajet with an CDI engine D4EA year 2002.

The best thing is, it doesn’t happen always it happens only sometimes most of the times it’s while braking to a traffic stop. And this really bugs my mind. Also, the engine never stopped and was needed to start all over again - it just drops RPM below 600.

What in the world could be the reason for that?