I bought a Meteor 75 Pro II to upgrade from my 1st gen Meteor 75 Pro O4. I also had an older spare Pro O4 body so I updated it's Betaflight settings too.

Claude Code, combined with Claude in Chrome was great for doing the setup and checking.

I gave Claude code a folder as a scratch pad to save its notes and history, and then told it to use Claude in Chrome.

This is the list of things I've done (I asked Claude to make the summary from its notes.)

1. Rescued a corrupted SD card: backed it up, reformatted it, rebuilt it from the official EdgeTX packs and restored your models.
2. Updated the radio: EdgeTX 2.10.5 → 2.11.8 plus the bootloader, matching SD and voice packs, battery voltage calibrated against a multimeter, and sticks recalibrated (the roll range is still on the watch list).
3. Set up voice alerts: signal low/critical and whoop battery low/critical, only while armed, plus a telemetry screen and 18650 battery thresholds.
4. Fixed the arm channel: moved arming to CH5 as ExpressLRS expects, on the radio and on all three whoops.
5. Matched OSD and warnings in the goggles: the same layout and thresholds on every whoop as the radio alerts.
6. Found and fixed safety problems: a failsafe setting on the gen 1 that could have disarmed it mid-air, and telemetry switched off, which caused false "critical battery" calls.
7. Checked the Pro II's firmware against BetaFPV's official file.
8. Rates: captured every whoop's rate profiles, softened "Indoors", and made SC switch rates the same way on both whoops.
9. Kept a record of everything: backups before and after each change, each one checked; step-by-step notes with rollback; a checklist of your hands-on tests; and a living CLAUDE.md.

Example prompts to try

I fly a RadioMaster Pocket (EdgeTX, internal ELRS) with Betaflight tiny whoops and DJI goggles. Use this folder as the project notebook: create a CLAUDE.md with my radio, whoops and preferences, plus a CHECKLIST.md for hands-on tests I must do myself.

Rules: back up and verify before any change (SD card model files, and a Betaflight CLI diff all per whoop before touching it). Make minimal changes, keep each whoop's tune, and confirm anything destructive. Props off for all tests.

Tasks: check my radio firmware and SD card are current and healthy. Set up voice alerts for link quality and whoop battery while armed. Make sure arm is on CH5 for ELRS. Match the Betaflight OSD warnings to the radio alerts. Copy my rate profiles across whoops so the same switch selects the same rates.

You can edit the SD card directly when I plug the radio in as USB storage, and drive app.betaflight.com in Chrome (I'll pick the serial port). Write up every change with why, steps and rollback.

Massive ships, narrow waterways, and a different perspective from the sky!

A short cinematic FPV film featuring cruise and cargo ships navigating the locks along the St. Lawrence , captured with two very different drones - the DJI Avata 2 and iFlight Nazgul Evoque F6D V2.

Two drones, two different flying experiences, one cinematic adventure.

This 3 inch is running 6S and was built to zip around and possibly do dives from higher heights. Due to my (construction methods) it’s not ment to take a hit, but I wanted to get it done and will make it good later. Flight times are around seven minutes with two lava 680 MAH 3S packs connected in series.

My Air65 is having static when I arm and completely losing Video when I give it a little bit of power and I have no idea why
It randomly started happening halfway through a pack after I crashed and I have no idea why

I’ve already checked my antenna and it looks fine and it’s still transmitting with perfect signal when not armed

Bought a tx15 max, figured I whould upgrade elrs from 3.5.6 on my reciever to 4.1 and also on the transmitter. Flashed both also replaced lua on the transmitter, everything seems to work but they wont bind, same uid githash, also tried binding it traditionally and nothing. I whould appriciate someone s help troubleshooting.

Radiomaster Zorro 4in1 mainboard. The 4in1 module has 4 cables But the Zooro mainboard still has 5 connectors, it seems like it can be directly installed with the internal ELRS module which has 5 cables.

I feel my quad is too floaty and doesn't drop quick enough when I cut the throttle. Does this have anything to do with these settings in the title.

I currently have motor idle set to 3.5 and dynamic idle set to 30 in the motors tab.

I'm using a seeker 5 with a 1200mah battery which makes it very light, I understand, but still feels way too floaty. Or am I just trying to fix a problem that isn't there 😭🤣

Haven't flown for a month since something weird was happening with my drone and I thought my solderjoints were garbage (I did the best I could with 40year old iron dont ask why I kept that hand me down) so got a new one really lovely in fact for chinese brand and as soon as I took the top left motor off its left wire was disconnected so I soldered that took it to fly it was great I remembered why I love the hobby and then why I hate it as I crash, antenna pops off, I find it, head home and whent to put it back on this time with e6000 saw this and my first thought was "ah shit here we go again" now I've got iron in hand and will commence the repair

Hello, I want to get started on an fpv drone project. I have some experience in SolidWorks, coding, and Arduino, but no aerospace experience. How can I get started?

Hi gurus.

I'm new to analog, long time in digital, so installed the famous akk alpha 16 and at 16 watts I dont know if it's ok to loose image using the impulse rc fusion module at 50 meters apart with 3 big concrete walls ? Or the analog signals are just strong if there's LOS?

I'm wanting to do long range with some mountains in between(4/5 km) so for that reason I purchase the monster 16 watts.

Let me know what should I expect.

Thatnks

Howdy, new to fpv/rc/drones and fairly new to Reddit.

I’ve been reading up for the past two days and have had an interest in this. Fairly technical/hands-on background but mostly mechanical and only dabble in electronics.

Looking to buy a do-it-all fpv drone setup and would like decent quality recording as part of that. Will train on sims, and I’ve about 7 acres of property to have fun/learn on, so long as I don’t terrorize the horses.

Planned build list:
•GEPRC MARK5 O4 Pro gps elrs
•Radiomaster Boxer (4-in-1…? May want planes later)
•N3 goggles
•some battery & charger

I’m concerned about buying a frame and making sure I get all the electronics and don’t want to let the smoke out, so I’d rather buy a BNF/RTF at this point and they don’t seem much more expensive. Trying to avoid tariffs by keeping suppliers in US (with implicitly already applied ones). Thinking newbeedrone and getfpv for drone/parts.

This good to go? Any other recommendations?

Air65 Freestyle Edition motors are too fragile. This is the result of two months of indoor flying, with mostly very light crashes.

Update:

My flying style isn't slow, but it's not anything crazy either. It's mostly like racing, just a bit slower.

Which simulator most beginners use as a free or crack version

I built a 4S analog drone using the beta fpv Pavo20 frame. The footage you're watching was recorded with a RunCam Thumb Pro 4K XV.

As you can see, I tried pushing it a bit faster than usual. However, right after that sharp direction change near the end, the drone seemed to lose control, snapped at an angle, and I wasn't able to recover it before crashing because I was too close to the ground.

Does it have something to do with the fact that I have ducted fans?

I'm using standard betaflight PIDs, I just changed the rates (I use soft rates).

I would like to never lose control of my drone because this time I was above a safe terrain, and I would be so sad if a crash like this will happen on a forest or over water.

Thank you in advance.

I feel like my 4S charging setup is big and stupid. These balance boards are cumbersome. The HOTA D6 charger has a wireless phone charger on the top that makes it larger than it needs to be and I’ll never use it. Threw away the box though so I guess I’m stuck with it.

1303.5 5500 KV motors with 3 inch tri blade props
(5in pitch) nothing fancy but you can fly it anywhere. 5-7min flight time with 680mah Lava

Hey, after flying around with air65 2 champ i was thinking building my first sub 250g drone. As i have no knowledge what part to choose at all i thought chatgpt could give me some starting point, he built it from stocks on local eshop. What do you think ? is it even compatible ?

Frame: FlyFishRC Volador VX3.5 O4

FC/ESC: GEPRC Taker G4 35A AIO

Motors: Skystars Koko 1505 3450KV (4×)

Propellers: Gemfan Hurricane 3520-3

Camera: Caddx Ratel 2 Micro

VTX: HGLRC Zeus Nano 350mW

VTX Antenna: Linear 5.8GHz

Receiver: Happymodel EP1 TCXO ELRS 2.4GHz

I already have EV800D w/ RM Pocket ELRS

After a few dozen days of use it stopped drawing the right amount of power from the charger, the charger connected to the plug always supplied 11 volts but a few days ago the toolkitrc showed me 5 volts, so I think it's a problem with the toolkitrc, can you help me?

Hi everyone,

I am currently repairing the Micro-USB area on my FrSky Taranis X9 Lite mainboard.

To make sure I do things right, I need to verify the exact specs/value of the SMD resistor labeled R114 (located right next to the USB port/D119 ESD chip).

Could someone who has an X9 Lite open (or a spare mainboard) please check:

1. The code/number printed on top of resistor R114 (e.g., 220, 330, 0, etc.)?
2. Or take a quick multimeter resistance reading across R114?

Here is a photo of the area on my board for reference.

Thanks a lot for your help!

I am building my first drone. Recently, my parts arrived, so I have started assembling. Before soldering everything to my FC and fully assembling it, I wanted to make sure it was working correctly. I have the GEPRC F722-AIO 45A V2.

When I plug in my FC, the LED stays solid red, and a blue one flashes for maybe half a second, and then stops. It is showing up in the COM3 port on my PC, but something weird is going on with Betaflight.

I have tried using the driver fixer, uninstalling and reinstalling Betaflight, and even using the boot button on the FC to enter the bootloader mode to reflash it. I have also made sure that no other devices are connected to my PC, and the COM3 port is not being used. Nothing is working.

If anyone has any suggestions/solutions that would be greatly appreciated!

I got Air75 II as my first fpv setup, along with Skyzone Cobra X v4 with stock antennas.

I know whoops won’t have good range, but I feel like I’m starting to lose image after roughly 50-70 meters away, and I’m not even raking trees. Just flat terrain.

Are there settings in betafpv app I should tackle?
And what are your recommendations on antenna upgrade for goggles? I have about 30-40$ budget for that, and I’ll upgrade them sooner or later anyway.