My goal: I want to buy an on-sale Switch game despite not having a Switch yet (and not having it soon enough). When I try to buy online, I get an error - (9001-3830) with a sentence to please access eShop on a system linked to this Nintendo account.

Question: What can I do here? If a friend has a switch (or switch 2), can I access the eShoo on their device with my account to unblock this, then buy the game, and next delete my user account from my friend’s device?

Hello all, I recently got a copy of Pokemon Legends Z-A from amazon. They sent me the spanish copy (Pokemon Leyendas Z-A), but im from the U.S.. From what i've read online the game itself will work on my U.S. based switch 2, what im wondering is will i still be able to get the switch 2 upgrade and dlc? or should I send the copy back and ask for an U.S. copy ?

Recently while I've been playing my Switch 2 docked the audio will randomly cut out for a very short time. It's not terrible but it happens frequently and it's become annoying. I've also noticed that my tv will randomly go black for a bit while I'm playing before turning back on again. I've been trying to fix this for a while and I'm hoping to tinally tind a solution.

Not sure if it's software or something else I just have no clue what's wrong with my switch

As the title says I have a switch OLED and the charger is quite tight to plug in and unplug. I've taken a habit of wiggling it slightly while plugging and unplugging to ease things, otherwise plugging straight in has a bit of resistance. The port and charger both look fine and have no lint and i don't get this issue with the dock but the adapter is also tight with the AC in of the dock too.

My OLED isnt that old. Stuck at logo on boot. Tried basically everything out there:

Removed joycons, and all cards.

Forced reboot by power button for 12 seconds

Tried booting up normally, by holding volume down and power on, and both volume buttons and power on.

Let it drain battery to zero a few times and recharged on USBc directly.

Nothing. Any other tricks out there or does it need to go back to Nintendo? Not super thrilled paying for repair as I was going to get a switch 2 but the whole issue has me a bit turned off.

I ordered the physical Switch 2 version of Final Fantasy Resonance from The Game Collection and got my pre order code. I redeemed it in the store and instantly got a second tile on my Home Screen.

Have I been given a code for the Switch 1 version? See attached images.

My controllers are attached to my console, and it registers them as connected to it, but it won't let me play games with them connected to the console even though it was working earlier today. They can still navigate the menus and select things, this ONLY occurs when trying to play games. I've been googling for almost an hour, and I couldn't find anything I hadn't already tried. I disconnected then reattached them, I've resynced them, I cleaned the attachment rails, I even restarted the console. I don't really know how to report this to Nintendo, and I can't afford new controllers (the second pair are my sibling's), so if there's a solution that isn't replacing them, I really want to hear it please!!

EDIT FOR CLARIFICATION: I have had this happen before, but detaching/resynchronizing/reattaching previously worked to fix it. I have a Switch 1 console, and it's going to be 2 years old in December

So I have been using Gamechat since launch and no issues until about a week ago.. it’s like the noise gate doesn’t work at all and everyone can hear my tv even when even if it’s suuuper low. I have never had an issue before. So I took it off docked and it the echos stopped, put it back on and echos started again. I even closed the cabinet it sits in and they can all hear themselves. I moved my switch, I played with toggling noise suppression and mic input volume. It’s all the same. But as soon as I take it off docked it goes back to normal.. I’m at a loss, is my dock screwing things up, should I take it back? Any help/advice would be good please and thank you.

Okay, so this may be more than software. First off, thank you for your help with my YSOD issue two months ago. I was able to access my Switch, and it worked on vacation.

Just got home from said vacation yesterday. I reconnected the SL to my home network (after it was repaired while we were gone), and played ACNH last night. No issues, and Switch connected to the network fine (full signal). I turned the console off after playing.

I started the console up this morning to check for updates. No issues. Left system on, and went grocery shopping since, you know, when you're gone for six weeks, there isn't much in the fridge. When I came home after shopping trip (around an hour), the Switch screen was on, and had the error shown below. Do I follow the instructions on the screen? With these errors showing up, do I have to be worried that my SL is dying (purchased in 2018)? I have an SD card in it, but do I have to worry about losing my games, and saves?

Can't afford a Switch 2, so I feel stuck. :( Any help would be greatly appreciated asap. Thank you.

My left Joy-Con is working completely fine with no issues, except for one minor thing with the minus (-) button: it presses down deeper than it’s supposed to.

I opened it up to check, and everything inside seems to be in its correct place. The membrane for the minus button isn't loose at all, so I’m really not sure why the button itself feels so deep/loose. To get it to register a press, I have to push down harder than usual.

As a quick temporary fix, I put a tiny piece of cardboard under the membrane. It helps—the button triggers much more easily now—but it also made the press feel a bit stiff/hard.

anyone run into this before or know a way to restore it back to its original tactile feel? Appreciate any tips

I have a US Switch 2 (Dock, Switch, Charging cable) and I'm using a US to EU outlet adapter to make it work here. My girlfriend is getting an EU Switch 2. Question is if the hardware differs at all on the docks? Should we avoid using the other's Switch 2 Dock if that could cause any issues at all? As I've seen quite a few posts online about 3rd party chargers / docks bricking switches (granted this isn't third party, however a voltage issue possibly still) thus a bit concerned.

My switch 1 worked flawlessly until a couple of days ago. I bought super smash bros ultimate, and the update lasted for almost 17 hours. Formatted my switch and SD card, tried to install all my games again and now this. I've tried almost anything at this point, I just have no idea on what else I can do. It happened suddenly, and every other device downloads stuff perfectly. I'm desperate.

Is this Switch Cartridge fine? I inserted it to the Switch console & it read the game right away. However, it looks worn out.

I was fortunate enough to be able to snag a preorder on the Zelda switch 2 console, I am worried that the package may get stolen in the delivery process though.
As this is a limited supply, in the event it does get stolen, I would most likely receive a refund, when I would prefer to have the console.

Back when the Xbox series X was first released, I had preordered that from target and FedEx was the one delivering it.
I watched the FedEx driver drive past my house and mark the order as delivered.

I called FedEx immediately and they basically told me I would have to file a claim for a refund. I think they contacted the driver as well because about an hour later, the package showed up and it was opened.

Is there anyway I can prevent this kind of thing from happening? After going through that, I’m sure you can understand that I have trust issues now

Im thinking about buying jamboree but Idk if I buy sw1 or 2 version, does sw1 version performs better on 2 without sw2/jamboree tv upgrade? or its better to get the upgrade?

Hey guys,

I have a V1 Switch from 2017 that has never been opened, and I’m planning to clean it inside and replace the thermal paste for the first time.

I already have Arctic MX-4, but I’m not sure if it’s suitable for all the thermal interfaces inside the console:

- CPU/APU to heatsink
- CPU metal shield to heatsink
- Heatsink/heatpipe to the metal shield plate, where the pink thermal compound is located.

Can I use MX-4 for all of these, or do I need thermal putty or a different paste for the other areas?

Also, should I keep the original thermal pads or copper foil/shim if they’re still in good condition?

Since this is my first time opening the console, I’d rather get it right than mess something up.

Thanks!

I've recently arrived here in China and will stay here for a few years. I'm wondering if I could buy the chinese version of the games that keep releasing and play them on my Switch 2 console bought in Spain.

I've searched online and I'm a little bit confused since I think it's different for Switch 1 and Switch 2 games... so I'm not sure. I wanna play that new Fire Emblem so badly!

So, as the title says, most of the Nintendo Switches in my house are repeatedly orange-screening. Some important details to note about my situation:

-We have 5 Switches in our house. 3 out of 5 of them have orange-screened repeatedly.

-All 3 of them are classic/original Switches, we do not own any later gen/OLED/Switch 2 models. The 2 that haven't orange-screened (yet) are a Switch Lite and another classic/original model Switch that was purchased refurbished/secondhand most recently.

-Each Switch that has orange-screened has had it happen 3-4 times already now. This only started around 2 weeks ago. Before 2 weeks ago, none of the Switches had ever orange-screened before.

-They all started experiencing the repeated orange-screening around the same time. So far, there hasn't been a situation where more than 1 Switch has been orange-screened at the same time.

-So far, most of the orange-screening occurs while the Switches are on the dock, but a couple of times it has occured when a Switch is not on the dock. One of those times, the Switch was plugged into the charger, the other time it was not plugged in.

-We have never used 3rd party devices or chargers on our Switches, including capture cards. We have only ever used Nintendo official chargers, docks, and controllers. The only thing that has been used that is technically 3rd party is a MicroUSB cord to plug a Nintendo official Pro controller into the dock. This cord has only been used with 2 of the affected Switches, and has also been used with the 1 Switch that has not been affected yet.

-We are all very careful about making sure the Switches are well-ventilated and stored in temperature-controlled areas. Regardless of if they are on or off the dock, we do not keep any fabric or plush items anywhere near the Switches.

-The locations we have kept Switch docks in are in my bedroom on top of my dresser next to my TV, in the living room on the TV stand, in the office on the TV stand, and in the office on my desk next to my desktop monitor.

-Only 1 of the Switches has ever been dropped, one time. That just so happened to be the first Switch that began the orange-screening. Originally I thought it was because of the drop, but neither of the other 2 Switches have ever been dropped, so I think we can rule that out.

-All 3 of the affected Switches were purchased from different sources at different times. November 2018 from GameStop, July 2019 (unsure of where it was purchased from but can update if I find out later), and August 2020 secondhand from Mercari. Again, as far as I know all 3 of them are Gen 1 Switches.

-All 3 of them are on the same WiFi network. Our internet provider is AT&T. So far, we will occasionally have internet connection issues, but the orange-screening hasn't seemed to line up with when these connection issues happen on our other devices.

-We live in the region of Sacramento, CA, USA. Recently, our weather conditions have been kind of up and down. We went from 90-100+ F temps, down to 60-70 F temps, back up to 90-100+ F temps, back down even lower to 50-60 F temps. Our in-home temperature has been pretty consistently around 70-75 F temps.

-The humidity level has been varied as well, but over time has been progressively getting more humid outside as the month progresses. Our in-home humidity has been harder to control, and has been steadily increasing as it increases outside. Currently today as I write this post, our in-home humidity monitor is registering at almost maximum humidity on the scale.

-Each time the Switches orange-screen, they turn back on after a hard reset. Every time this happens, we check for updates, and there haven't been any new ones available according to the update checker.

-We try to not leave the Switches on the docks or chargers for too long at a time, but we also try to make sure they aren't off the chargers for too long at a time.

-All 3 of the Switches are used semi-frequently, usually at least a couple times a week, sometimes more. While the Switches are in use, there haven't been any noticable errors, glitches, or any other issues. They are all in good condition, decent battery life considering their age, with only a mild amount of noticable lagging in games like ACNH on excessively-decorated islands.

Sorry for the post length, these are all of the details I can think of that could potentially be relevant to the situation. Based on the fact that they all started doing this at once very suddenly and most of the common causes I've ruled out, I am beginning to suspect that there's some sort of Nintendo software update glitch causing this, or (this is only a theory) I am worried that Nintendo is doing the thing Apple started doing years ago and adding forced obsolescence onto older devices with new updates to encourage people to buy the Switch 2. I am very worried about that and hope that isn't the case... but at this point I wouldn't be surprised.

If this has happened to anyone to the same degree it has to me (multiple Switches in the same house all orange-screening a ton very suddenly) or if anyone knows about this type of thing happening before, any advice or knowledge is appreciated from yall. Thank you for reading this super long post. 🧡

Hi guys, I'm considering buying a switch 2 to play Pokemon games maybe you can help me, I've been looking for test on performance differences between switch 1 and 2, I played shield and scarlet on switch 1 and I wanted to play those again and obviously play the ones I'm missing but I'm not sure if it's a good idea buying a switch 2 just for those games, also if you have recommendations on games I'll take it, the idea would be to play mostly docked, do u guys think it would make a difference playing those games on switch 2? (I have a 4k tv but switch 1 looked wack and obviously laggy)

Thx in advance, also if my English is bad it's not my first language soooo yeah.

Preferably in the EUR/ UK region. Thanks in advance!

I preordered Final Fantasy Resonance months ago, my PayPal is connected and continued to charge for my subscription. I received an email when I preordered and another 2 weeks ago letting me know I’d be charged soon. Game released today, no record of it on Nintendo and I was not charged, PayPal still works fine. Now I’m pissed because it’s wasted my time and I doubt Nintendo can or will give me the bonuses. I purchased the physical from SE’s site because it still had an option for preorder bonuses before midnight. Really makes me not trust Nintendo with any future purchases..

Has this happened to any of you and why?

So I play SSBU online and every now and then(maybe every 10-15 mins), without warning, my switch will give me the “there’s a problem with your internet” screen.

If I’m in a game during, this will kick me out of online(not the game entirely) and ban me for a couple hours. After this happens, I’ll check the WiFi connection and it’s connected, leading to me believing that the connection will just drop for some reason and come back.

This only started happening after we got a new router with AT&T from Spectrum.

I’ve also played two games, waited for the screen, then continued playing another two matches, then waiting again, but this is rather annoying and puts some unnecessary pressure to finish the games quickly before I get kicked.

Can anyone help?

Edit: for switch 1

Just wondering