Walnut box, hvac motor, and random gears and parts from a children’s robotics website 😂

Shipped today.

Rare Cuban mahogany find in old wood workers shop
Cut 1940s South American stamped
Board weight and end grain checked out
Any possible information would be appreciated please be serious

Hey everyone!

I’ve always used copper or aluminum foil for shielding guitar cavities. However, applying foil can be pretty time-consuming, especially in tight spaces and complicated cavities.

I’ve been considering switching to conductive shielding paint, and I’d love to hear your opinions and experiences.

How does conductive paint compare to copper or aluminum foil in terms of conductivity and shielding effectiveness? Are there any significant advantages or disadvantages?

Is it just more convenient to apply, or does it perform just as well as foil when properly applied and grounded?

I’d really appreciate hearing from those who have worked with both methods.

I just bought this guitar from marketplace for a low price but noticed the nut on the guitar. Is this really what this should look like? Should I bring it to a luthier to fix?

I've got a cool telecaster neck that I want to fit on a stratocaster body. I know that it doesn't directly fit, but I've been thinking - could I carve out those slopes in the body so the neck would fit?

I need reccomendation for a nice bridge For this, I’d prefer a stationary bridge, but I don’t know if that’s really an option, otherwise a black trem is fine.

Howdy y'all.

I'm about to start working with a custom builder in my area and before I pull the trigger I'm just hoping for a littlr advice on what is reasonable practical. My idea is to combine features between two if my favorite guitars: my Schecter E-1 FRS and Ibanez Z540.

I want the explorer style shape but with a thinner body similar to the S series. For now I plan to get a kahler steeler floating bridge. The reason is it has the "auto latch" mechanism that locks the bridge in place when the arm is pointing down, and unlocks to full floating when you move the arm into a usable position. You also don't need to cut off the ball ends of the string. You feed it through the saddle and you're good to go. Instead of a traditional locking nut I plan to use a graphtech un-lock nut (look into them if you aren't familiar. It's an amazing product and I have them on my floyd equipped guitars). To get it working correctly the headstock would have a straight pull from the nut to the tuners much like an ibanez headstock. Then I bought an Ibanez ZPS2 spring assembly with the thumb wheel to manage the springs.

The idea here being that you should be able to set this guitar up with minimal tools needed. Really you'd only need an Allen key to set the intonation. Everything else could be done by hand.

Active EMG bridge pickup with sustaniac neck pickup. Since the body will be relatively thin I'm thinking shallow battery box for the sustainer and perhaps a fishman battery pack for the EMG. Either the universal battery that could potentially be integrated with the cavity compartment cover or the fishman strat style trem cover.

Those are all the main points. I'm just curious anyone here sees some glaring issue I'm not aware of.

Thanks for your time! Cheers.

Jackson JS32T Kelly

Hi all! I have now tried two times to cover a decal under tru oil on my headstock. First time I probably brushed a bit to hard with my cloth and the ink of the decal started to peel off. Sanded it down, build new layers of tru oil, buffed it, and tried again. Second time I put on the tru oil over the decal with my finger, very gently brushing. I brushed on spot twice (I think), runny ink once more.

I hope third time is the charm: do you have any tips on how to proceed?

Photo: sanded off decal, new layer of tru oil. Pprobably will brush on about 8 layers before I try again, so it’s slowing me down!

Hey, this is a last ditch effort on a weird issue that I can't find the answer for. Not sure if this is cool for this sub, but I'm out of ideas.

Project build - BC Rich Warlock (Bronze, early 00's) converted to Baritone using a Warmoth conversion neck.

Upgraded to Gotoh locking tuners, Gotoh wraparound bridge (from the original BC Rich wraparound. This is my first time using one like this, and it's not my first choice.) The scale length ends up as 27.5".

I play in Drop A, using Ernie Ball Baritone (13-72) strings. All of the strings intonate as normal, except for the E string (second lowest, .56), which intonates sharp to an F.

• I've played with the saddles, and no matter how far back I move the E string I can't get it to intonate lower than a F. Initially, with the saddle in the middle position it intonates to a perfect F when the string is tuned to E. I've tried angling the saddle, but any adjustments to the set screw will affect the intonation of the strings around it. So even if I move the set screws so the bridge is as far back as possible I'm not able to intonate it, as the rest of the saddles have to be moved too far forward to compensate.
• Next, I tried chamfering the headstock side of the nut, thinking that was causing issues, and the relief helped a bit. The E string will now intonate just 1-2 cents into the F range. So, while it's better, I'm confident it's not the nut.
• While chamfering it out I ended up changing the strings due to tuning and detuning the same set over and over causing one to break at the post, so I'm confident it's not a bad set of strings.
• Eventually, I lowered the bridge to the point where a straight edge passes just over the saddles and the strings start to bottom out on the 15th fret or so. It will then intonate to a sharp E, however the strings are so low that the guitar is unplayable for obvious reasons.
• There's a tiny bit of neck relief when using the eye test, but using a straight edge shows all of the frets being pretty much the same height throughout. The neck is closer to dead-straight than not.
• I've had the neck for about 3 weeks at this point. It was test fit, painted, and lacquered over the course of a week, and has had strings on it under tension for the last 2 weeks. I'm also in the PNW, so there wasn't a massive climate change for the neck from Warmoth's factory. I dont think this is an issue of the neck settling in.

At this point I'm thinking it's one of three things -

• There might be an issue with the neck angle? I'm only thinking this because the situation improved when I lowered the bridge.
• It's possible it needs more neck relief, I've just never run into one string not intonating before.
• The bridge. There isn't much room for movement in the saddles with this bridge, so I snagged a cheap $15 Guyker one on the outside chance that the longer saddle play lets me adjust through the issue. However, that still feels like there's a larger systemic issue at play.

Any thoughts on where I can chase down possible gremlins? This feels like such a weird issue that I feel like any luthier I take it to is going to pass on the job.

I am planning to build a guitar with a TOM bridge and Fender neck. I will need to have the neck at an angle as I don't like the look of a recessed bridge, but I don't understand how I'm supposed to route the neck pocket with an angle and how to determine it.

I’m working on this awesome 1932 National Style 0, replacing the tuners. It’s got a cool National-branded slimline pickup in it, too. Sounds appropriately amazing.

What are you working on at the moment?

I'm gonna be undertaking a kit project soon. I was thinking a mahogany LP Jr double cut would look sick with a seafoam green finish with visible wood grains a la TV Yellow, is this achievable? For whatever reason I can't find any examples online. I'm aware that a stain wouldn't be desirable due to the red tint of the mahogany, would a suspended finish yield a better result? Why or why not? Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm having a problem with getting my head wrapped around. What's the best way to have adjustable pickup Heights: for the humbucker? It's got these feet that if I screws directly into the wood it's pretty close to the strings but not adjustable, for the single coils, I'm just using high density foam that can be screwed down. Are there better ways to achieve adjustable pickups in this kind of mounting? I'm also interested in components, should I buy new hardware, I.e the five-way switch, the volume pot, and the tone pot or should I reuse them.

Hello, Im building custom Soapbar for the pickups and almost all of the pickups out there are epoxy potted and sealed, only option i found is this one , but it is sold in Korea, could anyone provide similar style pickups in sold Us, Europe or China? I just need this kind of open design so i can house it in my own soapbar.
https://roswellpickups.com/product/ljp/

Hi all. Despite my prep including pins alignment. After 24 hours drying, I see my fretboard has shifted approx 2mm from the centre line at the heel only. Its dead centre at the nut.

Is this a catastrophic error requiring a re do ? So annoying as I spent ages on the fretboard and having taken a fretboard off in the past completely ruined the it.

Thanks

I have a cheaper $250 some dollar acoustic that’s got raising fret rails after lowering action and truss rod adjustment. Nothing bad yet but I want to glue and press back in. I have a caul but just asking opinions. Glue? No glue? Titebond 1? Super clue?

Thank you!

Had this guitar since I was 15. Currently 21 and a competent timber framer and cabinet builder in Arkansas. I will not accept that this cannot be fixed. No matter the price or personal time. Comment or dm. Please

Hello everyone!

I’ve taken on a frankenstrat job for the last couple months and an having problems with the bridge.

Installed a Wilkinson WVP6SB to fit my 6 point guitar, and it will refuse to return back to position after being used for tremolo. It’s always flat after going down or sharp after pulling up. I’ve tried tightening/loosening the clamp, more or less springs but always the same issue.

I took it to my local luthier and it stumped them as well without charging me for extra work so a couple questions that maybe i could get answers for.

Should I try to get a more “high quality” 6 point bridge or any tips for tinkering with this current one

How hard is it to convert a guitar with a 6 point system to a 2 point and would that be worth the time to try and implement.

Thank you!

No stencils, no idea about painting and running on DT lessons from secondary school. How did I do?

I’m aware of the sticker and even during sanding it wouldn’t come off. I ended up just painting over it

I'm looking to hear about the experiences from others who went into this line of work, how it went, and what the pathway looked like. Anything helps!

Hi. I play a solo when I need bending the 1st string on the 8th fret for whole tone. When I do it about 1 week the 1ft string breaks just above the 7th fret while bending. I tried out 3 different types of the 1st string and had same result. I use strings .010 - .046. What it’s the problem can be?

This was just a little project I've been cooking up for a while, I had some pickups i'd collected and wasn't quite happy with the stock wiring on the squier mustang that I've had since high school. I put in a new pick guard with what's basically two mustang-style circuits. The three way selector switches between the single coils and humbuckers, and each type of pickup has its own phase-switching circuit and volume.

2nd pic is from when I was planning the pickup layout.

I love the different tones I'm able to get out of it! I'm thinking of eventually putting a different heavier/denser bridge on it to get a bit more sustain, and maybe swapping out the neck to lengthen the scale length. Def a work in progress but I'm having a lot of fun!