What's the best approach to repair? Wood glue and clamp? The break ends right before the fretboard so that's still intact. I'm hoping the truss rod didn't get bent...

I have this cheap Les Paul that I wanna start using again but I'm super skinny and the body is just biting into my ribs (1st pic red line) so bad it's leaving red marks so I wanna add a rib cut (2nd pic is more less the shape I wanna make it). Am I gonna be okay to just take a rasp to remove the bulk of it and then use sandpaper and files to shape it? I'd obviously mask the surroundings to not scratch them up but I don't really care about the finish especially on the back. Probably gonna refinish it someday anyway. Like I said it's a cheap guitar so not much to lose. Tips and feedback are very much welcome

I have a few boards of flame maple that has gorgeous figure. I for the life of me plane this without having significant tear out. I have a 2Hp 15" planer with newly sharpened blades and I get tear out. I used a planer at a college wood shop that has a spiral cutter head with individual knives and I still have tear out. What am I doing wrong.

I got my guitar professionally setup and everything is playing 100 times better, but I can’t get past the low E sounding much more dead than before.

My tech said it is caused by my worn out frets, but the low E didn’t feel this way before. I know he made some truss rod adjustments. Could that be playing a role?

I’m not disagreeing that my frets need work or replacement, but I’m wondering if something else is the cause of this issue.

Any sage words on the matter?

I'm trying to refinish a solid-body electric guitar body for the first time, and I have two questions for you skilled luthiers.

1) t's got a big gouge on the top I'd like to fill in. It's only 1/16" deep, but it's 1.5" across. Can I use bondo? Would that adhere to the wood? I believe it's a poplar body. Is there a better material to use?

2) I tried to strip the finish with regular paint stripper and it did nothing the polyurethane finish. So now I'm sanding, but is that the best way to get the finish off? I'm afraid I'll go too far and affect the shape of the guitar or screw up the fit of the hardware.

Thank you very much.

so i've been thinking in making a piccolo bass, or i guess it would be a tenor bass, tuned BEAD but an octave up to use with an oc 2 and get a synth like sound without moving everything up an octave (credit to the bass channel for the idea), and i was thinking, it would be cool to make something like a prs custom 24 style guitar, but drill 4 holes in the headstock and make a nut that accommodates the string spacing of a bass, it would have the 25 inch scale, but since the whole point is to get as much fundamental as possible to help the oc 2 track better, and the lowest string is a b, which, i mean, doom guys play les pauls in b or c standard all the time, it seems on paper like a cool idea, is there something that i'm ignoring, or some reason why it would be a bad idea?

Looking for some videos of hearing an acoustic made with solid maple tops. Very curious of the different wood combos people thought of. Thanks.

I’ve read that many manufacturers use the same screws for neck and tremolo claw, that being a #8 wood screw. Just to be safe, does this mean I can buy some neck screws online, and replace my stripped trem claw screws? Does this apply to Schecters and Jacksons? (The guitars in question with messed up trem screws)

Also, I live in Denmark, so I can’t just order some #8’s. That’s why I’m asking

No stencils, no idea about painting and running on DT lessons from secondary school. How did I do?

I’m aware of the sticker and even during sanding it wouldn’t come off. I ended up just painting over it

Not sure now if my LP is real patina. After i took it to rhe luthier for some setup this happened. The guitar was setup perfectly tho no fret buzz and great action but this got me a little disappointed

This was just a little project I've been cooking up for a while, I had some pickups i'd collected and wasn't quite happy with the stock wiring on the squier mustang that I've had since high school. I put in a new pick guard with what's basically two mustang-style circuits. The three way selector switches between the single coils and humbuckers, and each type of pickup has its own phase-switching circuit and volume.

2nd pic is from when I was planning the pickup layout.

I love the different tones I'm able to get out of it! I'm thinking of eventually putting a different heavier/denser bridge on it to get a bit more sustain, and maybe swapping out the neck to lengthen the scale length. Def a work in progress but I'm having a lot of fun!

Hi all. Despite my prep including pins alignment. After 24 hours drying, I see my fretboard has shifted approx 2mm from the centre line at the heel only. Its dead centre at the nut.

Is this a catastrophic error requiring a re do ? So annoying as I spent ages on the fretboard and having taken a fretboard off in the past completely ruined the it.

Thanks

Rare Cuban mahogany find in old wood workers shop
Cut 1940s South American stamped
Board weight and end grain checked out
Any possible price information would be appreciated please be serious

I’m thinking about buying this baby Dean from Hell but it has a fixed bridge. I am wondering if a floating bridge conversion is even possible and how expensive would it be, or how difficult to do on my own.

Hi guys. I’ve been having Jack issues with my V. I just bought a soldering iron to try messing around with it, then this happened so good timing for me. I’ve welded before and sweated copper so imagine soldering is somewhat similar? Also this is my first time messing with electronics. There is a ground that should be connected on the opposite side to the red right? I’m imagining I need to strip the insulation off to try to solder it back, the wire seems too short to do that. I was going to ease into this on a project guitar but now have to fix my favorite one. Thanks in advance for your help!

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This sub was recommended to me as you guys have more experience with katalox than the average woodworker, so this is a copy of another post. I'm working on this no 1 sized infill, still need to peen everything together and all that but I want to finish the katalox before i pin it in place. Problem being I've never worked with it before this, and I read that it's really oily. Question for people who have worked with it/other oily woods before is what finish do you prefer? I'm trying to stay away from a film finish if possible.