an Iceman tribute model for my brother. Sapele body. maple/purpleheart/sapele neck. wedge fretboard. maple/cherry/maple binding. wedge pickup rings & cavity covers. maple/wenge knobs. stewmac parson street PAF's, Gotoh hardware. Thanks!

I can't think of a reason not to, but I can't find any instances of people talking about using these as saddle screws. Maybe I'm missing something.

Local to me, cant find info on what those are. How would you approach this repair? Im not an expert but Im handy.

The piece of the headstock is missing.How would I go about filling this in and reshaping it to match as close as possible to the original Epiphone headstock?

I front an angry step-dad themed sludge/doom metal band called Sod The Earth and build a lot of our stage props to look like DIY garage projects so I decided to finally make a guitar to fit the vibe.

The body is actually made from two 3/4" thick pine boards, the top board has the pickup and control plate route, the middle has those continued along with a route for the wiring to travel, and the back plate is 5/8" plywood to cover everything up. Everything is held together with recessed screws rather than gluing anything together.

Ended up using a metal outlet cover as the control plate and added a bar door handle to the top as my take on the Steve Vai Jem handle. the neck is actually from my first ever electric guitar, an old Washburn idol starter guitar.

It actually ended up sounding great tuned down to b standard and playing well enough to use and beat up on stage.

I found this single pickup Teisco guitar at the side of the road on trash collection day. When I took it back home and plugged it in it was apparent that there was a grounding issue (buzzing when touching pickup, strings, bridge and pots). I opened up the pick guard and here’s what I found inside.

I replaced a pickup switch in one of my other guitars that’s pretty much the extent of what I know about wiring, I kinda just want to use this as a learning opportunity. Online I can’t find much in the way of diagrams and with the soldering job on this it’s clear someone was messing with it badly before. Does anyone have any diagrams or know what exactly could be wrong here?

I was wondering how to remove the 3-way switch without cutting away the gasket. Is this unavoidable?

Should I take it back since they used painters tape?

Tried to fill a small scratch, ended up with a massive smudge, tried putting 70% acetone and it isn't coming off entirely, best mmethood to remove?

a couple weeks ago, I took my guitar to my local guitar center as the volume pot had stopped working, the tech was able to fix it for 40 bucks but mentioned my setup looked horrible. I knew it had setup issues but never really had the money to pay for one, but he told me for 60 bucks he could "make it actually playable". I caved and gave in

I drop it off a few days later, then the next day I got it back. almost every fret buzzed and choked on the E, A, and D strings. Obviously upset I just payed for a guitar coming back worse..I took it back up there, his fix was to crank my action back up ridiculously high. his response was "I just think it's time for a upgrade" after I already payed him to fix it because he told me he could.

the funniest part is the guitar somehow is right back to the same action from before, yet theres more buzz this time somehow. it's not a very expensive guitar I'll say (Jackson JS22). but being completely broke and struggling to even get by. It was a lot of money for me and I feel super let down I can't even get a good playable instrument out of it.

Love it when hobbies/interests collide!

im in need a replacement neck for the phase 4 or any if anyone knows a lead for one i know they are rare and i cant post this on the actual guitar subredit, its a 24.75 scale length if that is any help

Where do you guys buy either those trangular/trapezoidal boxes or the bigger rectangular ones that are just the right size for guitars so there's not too much space around that needs to be filled with packing material?

And do you prefer to ship with hard or soft shell cases and which models do you like?

This is based off of a compact bass on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4204163

Its just a block of wood with strings but I thought of overcomplicating and added a fretboard. Its probably obvious that im no Luthier but I tried my best getting some measurements down. The fretboard scale is 18ish inches. If I could get any advice on the process or any modifications I would greatly appreciate it.

So after lots of prep, some of it useful, the tailblock/tailend is finally "under-glue"... so we'll see how that goes.

I give the patient 50:50 chances at this point!

Hey, folks. I’ve heard that vintage tuners of this type should be lubricated occasionally. I’ve heard Triflow is good. Just wanna check before I muck anything up.
So you just put a drop of lubricant in the holes in the middle of each tuner?
I assume you probably wanna loosen up the strings, put the lubricant in and then re-tighten the strings so the lubricant can work around a bit.
For reference, these are the original Kluson tuners on a 1967 SG Standard.
Any advice would be appreciated.

EDIT: RESOLVED

I was trying to install a new string tree into a guitar and ended up stripping the screw circular. I don't exactly have any power tools. Tried to crimp the string tree down to remove the screw with pliers, but didn't work. What can I do?

I have made this partial neck through bass with the neck being made from bocote and the body made from mahogany. I was just wanting to see if anyone had a solution on how to finish bocote or other exotic, oily woods. I have seen a lot of different answers, but i haven't seen one talking about finishing bocote and mahogany in the same piece. I plan on staining the mahogany, and usually use polyurethane to finish all of my other mahogany bodies, but have seen that the oils in bocote mess with the curing process of the polyethylene.

Also, learn from my mistakes and never use bocote as a neck. Sanding, rasping, and filing has been a terrible experience. And it kind of smells like boiled hotdogs.

I have seen fretboards that extend slightly 'above' the nut by a quarter or an eight of an inch, with a slot that exactly fits the nut. I've also seen some that end at the nut slot and do not extend beyond that point. Any reason to favor one over the other?

I was chatting with two boutique guitar builders who make very fine guitars indeed but when I asked whether they tap tune the guitars to voice then they said no, and rely only on deflection. I understand that introduces consistency in the guitars, but why not also use tap tuning? Do some believe it's unnecessary and deflection works just as well?

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Hi everyone! Is there anybody who knows where I can get a custom neck made in (or ships to) Melbourne, Australia? The Facebook group hasn't let me in yet LOL. The specs I want are:

- 27 Frets (30 if at all possible)

- 25" Scale

- Satin

- Drilled for All Access Neck Joint

- Kramer K-Speed profile

- Graph Tech UnLock Nut

- Maple

- Richlite or Ebony Board

- Luminlay Face and Side Dots

- Uli Jon Roth Sky Guitar Headstock (Reverse)

Any help would be really appreciated, I have a body maker ready and waiting!

Picked up a neck on Facebook marketplace, some of the frets (not all) are slightly sharp. I was going to purchase a fret file, but was curious if there is a something that might be better to use maybe more of a DIY solution?

Hi! I know this might sound dumb. I just bought a Wilkinson Tele bridge and in the set came with these screws. This is my first time installing a bridge and I'm really paranoid to get it right. The screw diameter is a bit bigger than 3mm. I have a 3mm drill bit. I tested it and it came a bit tight but I do really wanna make sure it grabs the body good. Should I get a smaller/ bigger (3.2) drill bit or the 3.0 the right one for the job