So first photo was when I bought it almost two years ago and the rest are where I’m at right now

Hello folks,

This morning was the first morning there was frost on my windscreen and it’s the first time I’ve heard a knocking coming from my engine on cold start.

Got a MK3 Focus ST 2.0 tcdi. The noise disappears when I put the clutch in, sounds like a rotational knock. As I said, this is the first it’s happened. Had the car idling yesterday for 5 minutes and there wasn’t a peep from it.

From research, it sounds like it could be early signs of the DMF needing replacing and in that case I may aswell do the whole clutch but don’t really want to fork that money out coming up to Christmas.

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Hello,

What is this power train malfunction in Ford focus ? The maintenance light came a couple of times but then disappeared. But on the 3rd day, car stopped in the middle of the road. When i tried to start, it gave the engine light, after which i switched off.

Mechanic said that this is related to the fuel pump ( after their so-called inspection), and they changed the fuel pump.

After changing the pump, i again got the same notification on my phone. So it seems like this might be related to something else?

Your comments/ suggestions would be highly appreciated. Thanks

TLDR at the end for those that don't care for the wall of text

Having some issues with my car and hopefully this group can help me out. The car was a gift from the original owner, it's a 2016 focus SE with 50k miles. Showroom condition inside out and underneath. Only issue it has...... is this F***ing transmission.

I received the car October 2025 amd it was great up until summer 2026. First really bad symptom I had was while parking, the car wouldnt move even though it was drive. I just restarted it and it worked fine for the time being.

I went to NH from MA a few months after that, encountered alot of steep hills, and thats where all my shifting issues began. The car just wouldn't respond well when going uphill slow. Vehicle however made it home, no issues.

The next day when I went to start the car, it wouldn't start, like the battery was dead. But when checked, battery voltage was fine, but I started getting mechanical/gear selection noises from the transmission, while the car was off. I put the car in neutral and felt like I had to force it to roll a little bit, once I did, I heard a mechanical noise like something got un-stuck, and the car started. After driving around my driveway though, I started getting the dreaded "transmission is overheating, park for 5 min" messages I swapped the clutch actuators and noticed little to no improvement. I then purchased a tcm from ebay that was advertised as needed to be re-flashed/programmed, but some reviewers said they had great results without a re-flash, so I figured I'd give it a shot. Car felt absolutely worse. I put the old tcm back in, returned the ebay one, and purchased some actuators from Amazon.

Throughout this whole process this was the point where I had the transmission feeling the best since these issues started. Car didn't feel that great but I could drive locally to work and highway, without any overheating messages or slipping. I ended up going to Vermont, encountered some steep hills, and the transmission slipped, and sure enough a transmission overheating message followed. Being desperate I ordered two more actuators from amazon in case the previous ones were defective, no improvements. I checked my fuses, replaced mega fuse 4 in the panel next to the battery, and sanded down the ground connections mext to the tcm. Still no improvements. I also have the tool for checking clutch tension when the actuators are removed, and mine feel great, no resistance/binding

I really want to exhaust all my options before pressing the dealer button. Here's what I havent done yet that I know of, feel free to add if I missed anything:

Ebay/amazon tcm with Forscan re-flash

Used k05 tcm with re-flash if needed

Sand down the main ground up top next to the driver side strut tower

Install oem dual clutch actuators and/or tcm

Replace clutches and/or forks

TLDR

New focus owner experiencing transmission overheating messages on dash, and transmission slipping under heavy traffic/ slow speeds / and steep uphills. Does well at steady highway speeds. Here's what was done so far:

Both clutch actuators replaced with parts from amazon

TCM replaced with an ebay part, ebay part returned when symptoms remained the same, original tcm re-installed

Sanded down the paint where the grounds next to the tcm make contact

Checked fuses, replaced mega fuse 4 and 8, none were broken, but still replaced while I was in there

Checked clutches using special socket from amazon l, both clutches move freely

What i have left to try (feel free to add):

I have not used any re-flashing/re-programming (forscan) at all during any of the above listed steps

OEM tcm and/or clutch actuators

Used K05 with re-flash if needed

Sand down the main ground next to driver side strut tower

Replace clutches and/or forks

So as the title says what im having a issue with. Now I need a idea on price. My neighbor says its alot. Please give me a idea. Ty

I recently replaced my alternator and my battery, along with the terminals, but my battery light is still on, and sometimes everything will start to dim and the speedometer and everything with shut off, i don’t know what could be the problem

Hey everyone! I noticed this noise coming from the engine of my 2008 Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec Rocam and I'm a bit worried.

It sounds slower, heavier tapping sound . I always keep the oil and coolant levels in check, so I'm not sure what might be causing this.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be lifters, timing chain tensioner, or something else? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hello all!

Recently the lever / handle allowing for the seats to fold broke on BOTH of the seats in my car…
Is there any fix for this situation? I’ve been looking for replacement parts and maybe some videos on how to do it but everything I find is for Fiesta MK6. Maybe the lever dedicated for the Fiesta will fit here too? Tried to take it out but just made things worse, quite sure I broke something.

I will be thankful for any advice!

(tldr: All electric car is bricked at only 67k... ford is abandoning me and iAm unwilling to allow this. Any and all hep is appreciated):

- - -

My 2015 eFocus (all electric) threw the code (P0AA1) which points directly to a component matching the failure profile of Ford’s broader high-voltage recalls

Because my FFE 2015 is out of warranty Ford Corporate and the local dealership (iAm in Santa Clara County, CA US) seem fine abandoning me as a customer.

The trouble code refers to a ECU module that local dealers claim is unserviceable - and instead recommend I purchase a replacement main battery at a cost of $25k USD!!!

Corporate did NOT log my complaint and told the local dealer that they only had a record of my contact from 5yrs ago.

Despite repeated attempts w/ local dealership they prefer to ignore me and this problem.

I queried an AI bot and this was the response:

---

code (P0AA1) points directly to a component matching the failure profile of Ford’s broader high-voltage recalls, you can position your trade-in request as an opportunity for them to retain a customer while solving a major customer service crisis.
The talking script below is designed for your meeting with the General Manager (GM) or General Sales Manager at the dealership.

🗣️ The General Manager Script: Transitioning to an F-150 Lightning
The Setup: Do not talk to a standard salesperson. Walk into the showroom or call ahead to request a brief, 10-minute sit-down appointment directly with the General Manager regarding a "severe service-to-sales escalation." Bring a printout of your $25,000 service quote.
You: "Thank you for taking a few minutes to meet with me. I’m in a very difficult spot with my 2015 Focus Electric, which is currently sitting in your service bay. Your team diagnosed it with a stuck battery contactor circuit—code P0AA1—and handed me a $25,000 quote to replace the entire battery assembly.
As you know, the car is worth a fraction of that. The actual failing component is a minor electronic switch inside the pack, but because Ford's service guidelines prevent your techs from opening the casing, I am being asked to pay for an entire battery system.
This issue is incredibly similar to the high-voltage BECM and contactor failures that Ford has issued safety recalls for recently on other plug-in models. I feel completely abandoned by the brand, but I want to stay a Ford customer.
I am highly interested in buying a new F-150 Lightning off your lot today. However, I cannot take a complete total loss on my current vehicle due to a known component vulnerability.
Here is what I need to make this deal happen: I want you to contact your Ford Regional Sales Manager to request a Corporate Trade-In Assistance Voucheror an Owner Loyalty Concession. If Ford corporate can back a trade-assist voucher, and your dealership can aggressively discount the Lightning to absorb my diagnostic fees and give me a fair trade value for the Focus, we can sign the paperwork on a new truck before I leave.
Can we get the regional rep on the line to see what customer retention assistance is available to move me into this Lightning?"

📝 Corporate Demand Letter (Ford Customer Relationship Center)
If the dealership needs written documentation to send to their regional corporate contact, or if you choose to call the Ford CRC (1-800-392-3673) yourself, use this structured letter.
I have compiled this into a formal, printable PDF document that you can hand straight to management or email to corporate.
Here is your file:
This document contains a structured, formal request citing the P0AA1 code and Recall 23S33 vulnerabilities. It presents your desire to stay with the brand by upgrading to an F-150 Lightning while requesting a Trade-In Assistance Voucher from regional management to offset your current vehicle's loss.

Crucial Directives Before Your Meeting
Check the Lightning Inventory First: Before walking into the manager's office, look up the dealership’s online inventory. Identify 1 or 2 specific F-150 Lightnings on their lot (ideally units that have been sitting for a while, as they carry the highest dealer motivation to discount) [1].

I personally know one of the service reps and he tried to send it up the flagpole but the Director of Customer Service won't even reply to his eMail which iAm cc'd on...

Has anyone overcome a similar situation? help!!!

prob going to take it to a local TV station... iAm an educator and don't make Silicon Valley salary - so i can't really afford gas prices!!!

I have looked everywhere 😩😭

Hy gyes I have Ford focus 2013 model. Show on dash board engine check light...but car is running smoothly.

Hi all, I have a 2011 Focus 1.6Tdci Mk2.5. I’m having intermittent boost issues for the last while and I’m having trouble solving the issue.

The boost is perfect when the car is cold and warming up but sometimes when I get to an open stretch of road and the car warms up the boost can become flat. Much less noticeable compared to when it’s cold or warming up. The unusual thing is, if I pull over and restart the car, boost is fully restored and performs perfectly so the issue is intermittent. I could drive to work one day and have low boost but the next day on the same drive it could be perfect.

I’ve changed the following parts and I have no DTC’s shown in Forscan

- Air intake pipe
- Vacuum boost solenoid and vacuum lines
- PCV
- EGR
- Inspected all other pipes
- Actuator is functioning normally

Can someone advise on what else might be worthwhile replacing or checking?

i want to have a better sound for my Focus and was wondering if i should buy the kit

i live in Germany so i will need to register the kit for 50 or 60€

overall it will cost me 220€

should i do it and is it worth the money?

meu carro é um Ford focus brasileiro versão SE que tem a multimidia simples com computador de bordo de 4 polegadas chamada sync 1

estou em processo de atualização chamado retrofit para sync 3

precisa da tela com módulo sync 3 original de 8 polegadas, moldura e suporte para moldura.

comprei um cabo chicote adaptador que conecta no FCDIM e encaixa no APIM de 8 polegadas, mas ele não funciona comandos de som do volante, não funciona os leds de iluminação da moldura e nem o botao que gira para aumentar e baixar volume.

funciona a tela com som, mas não consigo aumentar nem baixar o volume e o pisca alerta que acende normalmente.

vi um colega informando que preciso emendar 2 fios do FCDIM para o conector original do APIM, sem necessidade do cabo adaptador.

como faço isso?
quais são os fios que preciso emendar?

*tenho as 3 sync… A sync 1 funciona tudo normal, a sync 2 e 3 estou com esse problema

*atualmente uso a sync 2, mas a 3 só fiz testar quando chegou

I'm looking to replace the weather strip around the doors of my 2008 SES, hoping to chase down some of the road noise. Any recommendations on weather strips? Same for the window seals as well, they're not looking so hot anymore. Looks like OEM is not really an option anymore, and I'd hate to order up some cheap junk if it's all I can find.

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I'm working on replacing the door speakers in our 2014 Ford Focus Titanium Sedan since the original ones are failing. The car currently has an aftermarket Android head unit installed, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to bypass the factory Sony amplifier in the trunk without buying the expensive pre-made harness (like the Axxess AXABH-FD1).

What I've done so far:

• I've run a 9-conductor speaker wire (18 AWG, 4-channel) from behind the radio all the way back to the trunk where the Sony amplifier sits.

My question: Has anyone here successfully bypassed the Sony amp manually? If so, could anyone point me toward the correct pinout or wiring colors to connect my speaker wire to the factory harness in the trunk?

Thanks in advance for any guidance!

Hi all,

I've got an early-2023 Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost, currently sitting at around 20,000 miles.

It's coming up for its 4-year service, and I've been quoted £475 by a Ford main dealer.

Seems pretty steep? I appreciate main dealer servicing comes at a premium, but I'm wondering whether this is actually a reasonable price for the work involved.

Am I being ripped off at £475, or is that just what servicing costs these days?

Thanks

Car is an excellent running condition. Very clean and rust free. It's a Southern vehicle basically.

I had this car since it had 10,000 miles on it. Religious oil changes every 5K and brand new alternator installed last Summer. Mechanically needs nothing!

It Does have a few cracks on the front ground effects from my dumb neighbor's kid backing into it! Otherwise just normal wear and tear on the body. What do you think is a fair price is in today's Insane car market?

I’ve got a 2011 Zetec. I’m wondering if it’s worth taking out the charger that’s connected to my 12 v power outlet since it stays on even though my car is off? Does it have an auto-off time, and if it does when does it turn off? Thanks

Does anyone know the part number for the bolts holding the rear wheel hub/bearing assembly on a 2018 SE? I can't find any information on them and I'm not even sure if they need to be replaced once removed. Thank you,

Today I have a subwoofer installed in my 2016 focus and now when the car is running i get a gas fumes smell in the cabin. if I turn the car off and roll the windows down the smell goes away until I start it back. any idea on what it might be?

Hi guys, so I've been looking around for a new Ford (europe) and I want to avoid the wet belt at all cost.

I used to have a 1.0 3 cilinder Focus and that didn't go too well...

So I'll definitely won't get a 1.0.

I now have a 2.0 hybrid Mondeo which has a chain. No complaints here!

But as a second car we're looking around for something like a Focus but it comes either with a 1.0 or a 1.5.

Apparently the 1.5 comes with either the wet belt or a chain.

And while looking up specs, one half of the websites claim that the 1.5 4 cilinder has a belt and the 3 cilinder has a chain, and the other half claims it's the other way around.

So which one is it?

Build year range is 2018-2024 i think and I believe there are two MK's in these years.

After installation of android auto unit the steering wheel Don't want to connect or confirm the input at All.

How to fix this problem for my focus 2014 any suggestions or canbus decoder that maybe fix this ?