Car is an excellent running condition. Very clean and rust free. It's a Southern vehicle basically.

I had this car since it had 10,000 miles on it. Religious oil changes every 5K and brand new alternator installed last Summer. Mechanically needs nothing!

It Does have a few cracks on the front ground effects from my dumb neighbor's kid backing into it! Otherwise just normal wear and tear on the body. What do you think is a fair price is in today's Insane car market?

Does anyone know the part number for the bolts holding the rear wheel hub/bearing assembly on a 2018 SE? I can't find any information on them and I'm not even sure if they need to be replaced once removed. Thank you,

Today I have a subwoofer installed in my 2016 focus and now when the car is running i get a gas fumes smell in the cabin. if I turn the car off and roll the windows down the smell goes away until I start it back. any idea on what it might be?

Hi guys, so I've been looking around for a new Ford (europe) and I want to avoid the wet belt at all cost.

I used to have a 1.0 3 cilinder Focus and that didn't go too well...

So I'll definitely won't get a 1.0.

I now have a 2.0 hybrid Mondeo which has a chain. No complaints here!

But as a second car we're looking around for something like a Focus but it comes either with a 1.0 or a 1.5.

Apparently the 1.5 comes with either the wet belt or a chain.

And while looking up specs, one half of the websites claim that the 1.5 4 cilinder has a belt and the 3 cilinder has a chain, and the other half claims it's the other way around.

So which one is it?

Build year range is 2018-2024 i think and I believe there are two MK's in these years.

After installation of android auto unit the steering wheel Don't want to connect or confirm the input at All.

How to fix this problem for my focus 2014 any suggestions or canbus decoder that maybe fix this ?

800km

Seems normal? I don’t know much! I know the battery is bad already and the fuel filter needs replacing. A quick high Rev at 3 rpm when in drive. 2007 Ford Focus Ses 151,000 miles

Hi guys, i got a 2013 ecoboost, 100hp with 150.000 km on. what are some modifications i can get? I heard a lot of bad stuff for gas focuses of that era, so im scared of a remap, also. Whatsya Guess?

Cambié la válvula de evaporación que está a un costado de la batería pero sigue lanzándome el código de error p0443.

Y los códigos p0131 y p0141 saben si se quitan con cambiar el sensor del oxígeno ?

I first drained the original coolant. Then added in distilled water and the Motorcraft VC-1 Coolant Flush. Drove around for about 20 minutes with the heater blasting to let it all work through the system.

In the first drain I poured another gallon of distilled water into the overflow basin to help flush out the original gunk, that’s why there’s two #1 gallon bottles on the first flush.

After that it was just add distilled water, run the engine for a bit, and then drain. I had originally bought 5 gallons of distilled water, but it took more, so I had to go to the store. I went to the store (7 minutes each way) with only distilled water in the coolant resovoir, and I think that’s why bottle 5 looks dirtier than bottle 4, as it got more time running through the system.

But, finally the 8th flush came out completely clear.

When it came time to add the new Yellow coolant I knew I would still have some distilled water leftover in the coolant system, so I would need to add concentrate to get the mix right. I took the internets advice and added 3 Liters of concentrate and then topped up the rest of the way with distilled water (about another liter or so). So far the mix seems right

I have a mk3.5 with regular headlights. Could i just swap them with the ones with led?

Does anyone know this part?

I'm sure I know the answer. If it looks like a duck and sounds like a duck, it likely is a duck.

This os what the upper engine mount looks like. 2018 Mk3 Focus ST-Line, 1.5 182HP ecoBoost engine.

Gently pressed on the center rubber, it made a cracking noise and sprayed dark red fluid all over my hands.

Already ordered a new mount from febi bilstein. Didn't notice much about the driving though, its a bit more rough on shifting, especially low gears but figured it's from driving so much short distance recently.

Kinda ironic, we literally just did the same mount on my moms Mk2 Cabrio. Weird timing..

Mk3 Facelift 11/2015 – SYNC 2

I’m having a problem with the Bluetooth connection.
Basically, I had my phones (iPhone 13 Pro Max and iPhone 13 mini) connected via Bluetooth, and everything was working perfectly fine, including music playback. Then, all of a sudden, the music stopped playing, and I haven’t been able to reconnect either phone to the car since.

The entire display works exactly as it should, and there are no other issues. However, neither phone can detect the car, nor can the car detect either phone. I also tried connecting via USB cable, but that doesn’t work either.

So far, I’ve tried the following:

-Performed a soft reset.
-Performed a hard reset.
-Removed the fuse, started the engine for 2 minutes, switched the engine off, and then reinstalled the fuse.
-Disconnected the battery for 15 minutes.
-Connected a Vgate diagnostic scanner, but it showed no fault codes for the APIM (although I’m not sure how reliable Vgate is for this).

Does anyone have any other ideas on how to fix this or how to diagnose what’s actually causing the problem?

Never did a coolant drain and refill. Should I do one? I heard it helps my water pump and radiator last longer.

Hello all, I changed the clutch on my 2012 DPS6 a couple months ago. It generally works fine but I get the occasional bog as if letting off the clutch on a manual with no throttle uphill. Only happens when slightly tapping the gas in stop and go traffic. I'm leaning more towards actuators but wanted some input. I've played musical actuators a few times with a couple from the junkyard, but those are just as likely to be worn out as the originals. If this sounds like an actuator issue, I'll have no issue buying new ones but wanted to check first. Also occasionally hear the fork engaging over and over while cruising but a quick blip of the throttle stops it and it's fine. I've heard these could also be from TCM software as Ford has been known to attempt to calm the clutch system down with different TCM values. Thanks in advance for any input🤙

I have less than 3 mm left on my break pads so I figured it's time to switch them.  The last time I swapped out my brake pads and rotors was back in 2019.  I had a shop do it and it cost me $700 in total.  I'm guessing it'll be more in this day and age so I'll attempt to do it myself and I was wondering if you kind folks can help me out.

I'll be following the instructions in here:  https://youtu.be/9GWh8VjTxTk?si=2uoA1M9igleBRSkr

A couple of questions:

1. Do I need blue Loctite when putting back the caliper bolts in?
2. Do I need to replace the rotor?  It's a good idea right?
3. What brand should I buy?  I was planning on getting a brake pad/rotor set on Rock Auto with a heart next to them.

Please forgive me as I am a newb but I can watch a YouTuber video and follow instructions.  For example I can change my own oil, tires, spark plugs, engine mount and simple things like that.

Thank you in advance!

Does anyone know what this could be? It also makes a weird sound when accelerating too. It doesn’t slip on the clutch is fine.

Any ideas?

I was wondering if you guys can also help?

Hi everyone,

I have a 2004 Ford Focus MK2 estate, 1.4 petrol, 80 hp, with a manual gearbox.

I’ve noticed a high-pitched, steady “Wiiiiii” whining noise that seems to come from the left side of the car, possibly from the rear left wheel.

Here are the symptoms:

- On dry roads, the noise usually starts at around 80 km/h.

- On wet roads, it can start as early as 60–70 km/h and becomes noticeably louder.

- When I accelerate, the noise gets louder. When I lift off the accelerator, it becomes quieter, but the pitch seems to stay the same.

- I can barely hear it inside the cabin, but it is clearly audible from outside.

- My brother was sitting behind me and thought the noise was coming from the rear left.

- The noise does not seem to change when gently steering left or right.

- I first noticed it around the time I replaced the wheels/tires and brake discs/pads, although I’m not 100% sure they are related.

- The gearbox oil level has always been correct, and the gearbox has already received fresh oil.

- I haven’t checked the rear dust shields/backing plates yet.

- I haven’t noticed obvious sawtooth wear on the tires.

I’ve read that a whining noise that changes with acceleration can come from the differential or gearbox bearings. However, the fact that the noise is much louder on wet roads and seems to come from the rear left makes me suspect the tire, wheel bearing, or brake area as well.

What would you check first? Could a tire produce this kind of noise even without visible sawtooth wear? And is it possible for a wheel bearing to make noise only at higher speeds without noticeable play or a change in noise when cornering?

I’d appreciate any advice or similar experiences. Thanks!