Bought this vehicle earlier this year as a project car. Sold it off and it was wrecked by the now previous owner. I ended up back with the vehicle for a second time and I ended up putting it back together. Crash bar had to be replaced along with the radiator, ac condenser, alternator, battery, hood, hood hinges and latch, bumper, both headlights along with an interior cleaning. I sourced all the parts from the junkyard (which explains the black bumper) I’ll get around to painting it. The panel gaps need a bit of adjustment which will probably turn into me replacing the fenders. It’s the 2.5 so it has the best engine. And for those who are wondering you can fit the front end of a fusion in a fusion (crash bar and bumper). Threw my old snowflakes in the car for the time being.

Replaced master cylinder in my 2010 ford fusion 3.0 today. You may remember a post of mine from a. Few days ago about a soft pedal.

Well… pedal goes all the way to the floor with almost no resistance now. I bench bled the master, installed it, and spent the last few hours trying to bleed the system. Cannot get any air to come out, or pressure to build in the pedal.

I have a scanner that can run an ABS bleed procedure, and that didn’t do anything to help either.

Any thoughts before I call a tow truck?

I have a 2014 Ford Fusion SE with the 4 inch screen. I bought an 8 inch screen apim and acm on Facebook marketplace. I know I need to buy a bezel for the new climate control buttons. But I was wondering if everything else is plug and play, or if I need to buy anything else for this upgrade?

Somebody help yo girl!! I’ve had these problems for quite sometime now. My car passes smog, but whenever I start to drive the lights come on and my steering wheel tightens up. I just got a new power steering rack pinion and suspension so not sure what else it can be.

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I have a 2019 Ford Fusion SE 1.5L EcoBoost, and I’m trying to figure out what could be causing an intermittent grinding noise from the front brakes.

The noise happens when I press the brake pedal, usually after I’ve been driving for a while. It doesn’t happen every time, which seems to make it difficult to diagnose.

Here’s what has happened so far:

- The dealership has inspected the brakes twice. Both times, they told me nothing was wrong with the brakes because they couldn’t recreate the grinding noise.

- I also had a full vehicle inspection performed at a Ford dealership as part of the process for getting an extended warranty. No issues were found during that inspection.

- Nissan of Orange previously inspected the brakes and reported approximately 8 mm of material on the front brake pads and 6 mm on the rear pads.

- American Tire Depot identified folded brake hardware springs during its inspection.

- The grinding seems to occur intermittently, particularly after driving for a while and when applying the brakes.

What’s frustrating is that I can hear and experience the noise, but the dealership hasn’t been able to reproduce it during either visit. The full Ford inspection also came back without any reported issues.

My questions for mechanics and Ford Fusion owners:

1. Could folded or improperly installed brake hardware springs cause intermittent grinding even if the pads have plenty of material remaining?

2. Could brake components shift or make contact differently once they heat up?

3. Could the rotors, calipers, brake clips, or pads cause this kind of noise without an obvious problem showing up during an inspection?

4. What diagnostic steps should I ask the mechanic to perform when the noise cannot be reproduced on demand?

5. Has anyone experienced this with a 2019 Ford Fusion or another Ford vehicle?

I’m not trying to assume the dealership is wrong, especially since they’ve checked it twice and Ford performed a full inspection. I just want to understand what could be causing the noise and how to get it properly diagnosed.

Any advice or similar experiences would be appreciated!

While driving my 2011 ford fusion hybrid, my brakes just got super hard and I got a check brake light which went away after restarting the car 3 times over. The mechanics said they are not comfortable replacing the solenoid. I went to another mechanic and they said they could do it if i brought them the part, however I have had great difficulty in finding the part.

The autoshop cleared the number but the check brake light went off again a day later. Did the same thing again and it has now been in perfect driving condition since then.

Does anyone know where I can find this part and what I need to exactly buy? Secondly, I also wanted to know what others have done when this error code showed up on their system. Thanks

sounds worse in the video than in real life

This car has been amazing for me bought it at 50,900 miles. And currently about 65k I will definitely be buying another one if I ever need too! I’ve put LED high beams and regular headlights and did an oil change so far and it’s been great!

2020 ford fusion Hybrid

Dude why aren't enough people talking about replacing your motor mounts on cars. They should be replaced at or around the time you replace your shocks or struts. Or around 100k miles. The rubber in them dries out and deteriorates. Even if you don't think they need to be replaced, if you have more than 100k miles on your car, you need to replace them or have someone else do them.

Back in May, like 5 months ago I had my transmission replaced in my 157k 2014 Fusion SE 2.5. Even after I had it replaced, especially in the last month or so, I get clunking and harsh shifts and a lack of low end power. It would especially be clunking when I hit the gas pedal or let off quickly. Or shift into drive or reverse too quickly from park.

I just replaced the two top motor mounts on my car and it made a substantial difference in the smoothness of the shifts and there are no more clunks at all. It took me about an hour in my driveway to replace them.

You will need a hydraulic jack and a board to support the engine and protect the oil pan and transmission when you're lifting it up. You'll also need a set of smaller and larger metric sockets. Both shallow and deep sockets. I don't remember all the sizes. But the biggest one was 21mm for three of the bolts and nuts on the larger front mount. And I believe a 17mm or 18mm, and 15mm. As well as a 7mm, 8mm, and 10mm for the bolts to remove the battery tray and air filter box to get to the transmission mount.

I'm not sure why I was intimidated to do this job myself. It was one of her easiest things to do. As long as you have the tools to do it, it can be done in an hour or two.

I didn't want to tackle the lower dog bone mount as a couple of the bolts are harder to get out as you have to use a pry bar to move the engine to get them out. I watched several YouTube videos on how to replace them and usually do most of the repairs on my car myself.

I bought the two mounts for $91 shipped to my house from Rock Auto although you can buy the 3 mounts for slightly more if you intend on doing all three. They arrived in a few days.

The right mount and torque strut mount are located in the engine category while the transmission mount is in the transmission category on the website if you want to buy them separately.

I can't recommend this job enough. And I can't over state the difference that it made in my car enough.

My car this morning had this code and went to limp mode and kept bucking, very limited power

No lights besides the wrench tool.

Those who had this issue, am I gonna have to replace my transmission or am I gonna get lucky and just replace the solenoid

So I own a 15 fusion about 80 K on the mileage. In 2022 one and only had 30 K, but that being said my right tail light went out. And I went to both a Ford dealer in an autozone and AutoZone said they couldn’t do it other than some of the bulb as the front bumper has to come up or off went to a couple mechanics and the Ford dealer they wanted a few dollars in labor. Is there any way that anybody knows where I could just buy the bulb and have changed and avoid the labor cost without taking the bumper off? As I am not quite and what they wanted to charge me what’s pretty much a car payment

Please help this dumb mom out. My kid got into a minor fender bender in January. We didn’t notice the crack in the headlight cover. We had no issues until Florida summer rains came and the water seeped through the crack and completely fried the assembly. I was in for a rude awakening that the new assembly is $1k+.

I found the label on his current headlight and put it into ChatGPT. (Part number on label: HS73-13E015-AH)

Chat pulls up an aftermarket option for $674. But the description for that says “2019 Ford Fusion SEL - Driver Side LED Headlight, With bulb(s), For Models Without Auto High Beam and Control Module, OE Comparable Finish
Manufacturer #RF10010244”

However his car has the auto brights and that headlight worked on the auto brights before it got fried? Am I safe to get this $674 part? Do I even care if the auto brights work? I don’t think auto brights are worth $400 to me but I also don’t know sh*t about f\ck.*

Revving a fusion Hybrid SE @ 111,000 miles. Not sure about this gentle whistling noise and trying to figure out if it'll be the first indicator of a failing stator bearing.

I would like to know what to look out for. The one I am looking at has ~98,000 miles. I intend to get a pre-purchase inspection for it. Am I making a good choice?

I recently bought my first vehicle, it’s a 2018 Ford Fusion SE. Unfortunately I made a mistake when attempting a certain maneuver in an alley and ended up slightly cracking the left headlight. This accident was at the worst possible time since it’ll be consistently raining for the next week. Even though the crack is pretty small I made sure to use high performance weather tape to cover the exposed area. I want to eventually replace it. From my understanding the cheapest option would be to buy an aftermarket headlight and find a body shop that can get the job done. Any headlight replacement recommendations? Is this a job I can do myself or is it too complex?

New tire, alignment, shocks and struts, bushings and casings completely busted. Deemed a safety hazard until fixed. Hopefully it’s worth it to get it fixed and not spring for a new car.

Hello I have a 2014 fusion ecoboost car has been out of commission for a while with a misfire on cylinder one. Rings are shot and needs a new motor. Recently my friend has asked me what I would let it go for. Now I know I’m
Not sitting on a gold mine, but what’s a price for a fusion with a blown motor going for? Body is decent shape little corrosion on the hood interior is still nice no rips in the leather and it has options on it being a titanium.

87,000 miles

Comes with a national powertrain warranty

Oil was changed shortly before we bought it. It had a 91% oil life left according to the computer.

Inspection to get a sticker for the state we live in. Brake fluid flush, engine air filter change and cabin air filter change

Had to replace the battery as it was low voltage. Had to have the alternator replaced.

Had some issues with the throttlebody. They took it out and cleaned it and it seems to be running fine now

Does all of this sound typical? We're really looking to get to a place where we don't have to constantly have it in the shop.