If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Making sure I’m doing this right. Left car off for about 45 minutes (2003 jeep liberty). Battery has died about 3 times over the last 4 months

09 Volvo S60 2.5T, need help identifying the source of knocking noise from engine bay. Thanks

What would cause the oil to accumulate on top of the valve cover only when the vehicle is in motion? I had it running for 10+ minutés while watching to see where the oil was coming from, only to have no oil appear. Drive for 5 minutes and the whole valve cover is cóated in oil.

Any ideas where to start looking?

Thanks everyone

For a 2023 subaru impreza.

Got it on Amazon. Box was damaged, but the filter seems okay. The folds are bent a little.

This shouldn't be a problem, right? Or should I return and get another one?

Sorry if it's unclear. I didn't want to take it out in case I should return it.

Kind of a weird sound going on,
Bought it off some random junkyard mechanic, it runs but has a hard time under load, engine shudders, looser power, sounds like a misfire.

The junkyard mechanic said he changed the timer belt and the distributor/spark plugs and wires, so I’m guessing they were trying to fix a misfire problem.

Can barely get it to run up to 60km/h

Edit: I don’t need it to look brand new or anything. Literally just don’t want water to puddle in the mean time till my new ones come in.

I bought a car a few days ago but this is the holes that were drilled into the plate frame is there a specific screw that is actually that shape I can use? The little square shaped license tab didn’t work they were too big and I don’t wanna drill a hole into the body of the car to make new holes. Am I just better off getting a fresh new license plate backing frame and making new holes?

2007 Monte Carlo SS, sorry for the video format this was taken off Snapchat 🫡

I’ve been toying around with an intermittent electrical ghost which would trigger the door locks to go off and the entire electrical system to go haywire.

A couple days ago, every dash instrument went dead and I had to park the car since it put itself into limp mode. After some diagnosing, I got a code saying the car had lost comm. With the TCM, and I can get it to replicate the issue consistently by wiggling the TCM wiring harness.

What I have managed to find is that whenever the TCM casing is connected to a ground (what you see me doing in the video, it’s a multimeter lead on a chassis ground) I will have full communication with the TCM and read all of its live data with my scanner.

I tested for continuity between the connector and all of the grounds and negative terminal which all passed. Both GMLAN +/- l’s on the TCM are receiving .5V / .8V on the two respective Communication wires, but they are only receiving (I’m not sure if this is an issue or not).

If anyone has any help on this I’d greatly appreciate it. I think I’ve gone as far as I can with the tools I have available but I’m willing to dig a little deeper if anyone has advice.

Hi everyone, I need help diagnosing my 2016 Lexus IS 300, 3.5L V6 (2GR-FSE).
The engine cranks but won’t start.
My OBD2 scanner cannot communicate with the vehicle.
The Check Engine light comes on with the ignition ON.
Starting fluid makes the engine attempt to start slightly, but it won’t run.
I disconnected the fuel line and confirmed that fuel comes out when attempting to start.
I’m using the original key, but the remote lock/unlock functions are not working.
Some people suspect a bad ECM, but I want to confirm the cause before replacing it.

Could this be an ECM power/ground issue, EFI relay, immobilizer problem, or CAN bus fault? Has anyone experienced similar symptoms on this model and found the actual cause?
Any diagnostic advice or wiring diagram references would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Time stamp 10:43 for video.

I followed this guide video while installing my transmission on my 2001 Honda prelude. What I’m paranoid about is that I found out after I installed the trans that you’re not supposed to close the gap with the bell housing bolts when mating the transmission to the engine (which is what I did and what he seems to do in the video).

The transmission went in smoothly, I never heard an extremely loud popping or cracking noise. I lined up and connected the bevels as close as possible. I used a small hand ratchet to close the gap with no resistance. I didn’t tighten all the way yet (only when the gap was closed). I thought it felt good until I learned there is supposed to be no gap before bolting.

Am I being paranoid or should I do a sanity check and pull the transmission for any damage. If I should check what do I check to assess the damage. This is my first time doing a manual swap and there’s not a lot of videos for my car on how a transmission should be installed so I followed this one.

Never thought as a mechanic myself I would be posting here, I have a 2012 f250 and my brake lights are not working. I have checked all 4 fuses related to those lights. I have power getting to my brake light switch. I put in a new motor craft brake switch and it did not work. The lights turn on for my turn signals/hazards, as well as when I unlock and lock the truck. I don’t know what else to check and I’m hoping it is not the BCM or something. Just looking for ideas no matter how stupid they may sound. My scanner is also not registered. I suck at electrical diag so I’m hoping you guys can help me out.

Well, I have a 2002 Honda CR-V AWD and it seems to have had this clunking noise in the front driver side wheel area since I got it 5 months ago. It primarily only happens when turning to the right, and over uneven or bumpy roads. If it’s very cold out it will also do it if I’m just going straight but will tend to disappear at higher speeds. Since getting the car, I’ve installed KYB strut assemblies, Moog front sway bar end links, moog front lower control arms, moog font lower ball joints, and moog outer tir rod ends. I have gotten it aligned professionally hoping that would fix it but it did not. Feeling kinda lost as to what this could be.

Bought a 1972 c10 350 for a project, rebuilding it and all is going fine. Intake manifold gaskets were toast so doing those. Come to find out the old guy didn't put in a manifold bolt. Went and got one only to find I have zero ways to get this thing torqued. No sockets fit and I think the casting may be off. Any suggestions? I almost need to Dremel a socket. I loosened all the bolts and adjusted it to get it all the way down finger tight but still no room for a socket or wrench.

2011 BMW 328i RWD Convertible

Hello all, been having this odd sound come from my left front wheel area.

Sound only started after I installed Gerald and slotted brakes on my car. Sound only happens when going in between 20 and 40 kilometres per hour ( or 12 to 24 MPH )

I put a video of the sound in this text, I own a 2015 Audi A4 manual, ~116,000 km.

Could this be a clutch issue or something as simple as the bolts holding in my tires?

Just bought a 2004 350Z. Noticed a rhythmic humming/vibration with slight left steering input at highway speeds, plus clunking when turning the wheel while parked.
Jacked up the right front and found play/clunking when rocking the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock. In the video, the lower ball joint appears to move independently of the control arm.

Does this look like a bad lower ball joint or something else? Maybe ball joint is just loose and I need to get back under and tighten? I thought ball joint play was typically found at 12 and 6, rather than 3 and 9. TIA

Honda CRV 2010, 194K Miles

I think I know why it’s doing that. There is a small crack on the engine mount. Honda accord 2013 just curious is this the problem.

I am the second owner of a 2021 Seltos S with about 66,000 miles on it. Recently on high load acceleration events, the transmission slipped about 4 times. The transmission is a pull-chain type CVT, called a C0GF1. It felt like I got a light tap from behind while passing on the highway. The local dealer took a look at the transmission by removing the output shaft speed sensor and found metal flakes inside the transmission. Since I am the second owner, I am outside of the powertrain warranty and face a bill up to $5,000 to replace the transmission. I asked Kia corporate for a goodwill extension of the warranty due to my full documented maintenance history and the fact that I changed the CVT fluid at 43,000 miles. Kia corporate denied it. Has anyone else had this same issue at this number of miles? This sucks!

Since finding out this bad news, I have contacted some local independent transmission shops for a better price. I’m also considering reporting to the NHTSA because it seems like others may have the issue, but the information is sparse.

Did I possibly get screwed over?

2013 Volvo s60

In march, I went in to have my driver side front spindle assembly replaced. I provided the part and just needed the labor.

Backstory. 2 weeks earlier while doing a tire at Mavis, they let me know that I needed the new Spindle, and that my Axle bolt was completely corroded. And to head to a shop that's more equipped for the job. Also that I might need a new Axle too since it might get messed up while getting the bolt out since it was crazy corroded.

Dropped it off to the next shop to do the Spindle, and got a call back that my Axle bolt was corroded and they have to go grab a part etc etc. I knew about the bolt obviously, but I didn't quite catch what they actually needed. Okay fine just do it. This is my fault. I didn't think they said a new Axle was needed but whatever.

I pick up the car, and as you can see on the receipt l, an entire new Axle assembly was bought and put on. I figured whatever, I'm sure I'll have to do the Axle at some point anyway.

Today while getting another freakin flat tire fixed, a new Mavis let me that I need a new front driver side axle. I was confused since I thought I just got that done. And as you can see in the pictures, that appears to absolutely not be a new Axle that was put on in March.

So I ask, did I get screwed? The shop clearly did not replace the Axle, but charged for it. And how was I supposed to verify it? I'm not going up and under to see that area.

Do I have any move here?

As my title says. I have not performed transmission oil change on my 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport AWD for 261k miles. Recently, I noticed that when I start my car, I feel the gear shift is not smooth anymore. How much damage can I do if I perform transmission fluid drain and fill? Maybe perform another drain and fluid after driving 500 miles again? Let me get your expert advice. I am no mechanic.

I got my 2006 Kia cerato serviced 1500 kilometre’s ago so I didn’t think I needed to check the oil before I drove into the city.
On my way home, acceleration started lagging, and engine light came on. By the time I turned onto my street (15 minutes after light came on) the engine started making a small clunking noise and started shuddering when i pulled into driveway. No plumes of smoke, didn’t overheat, no crazy smells from the engine.
Immediately checked oil and there was the the tiniest bit left. Let the engine cool for an hour, put some more oil in, drove it down the street. Symptoms improved but still lacking it’s usually go when accelerating and still shuddering when idle. Clanking noise still there.

No obvious oil leak so have no idea where all that oil went.

Did some research and it’s not encouraging. How fucked am I?

I have a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado Z71 with the 5.3 V8 in it and the slip yoke for the rear driveshaft is stuck inside of the transfer case. I've tried everything I can think of. The driveshaft was hammered into the transfer case, so imagine the splines got twisted. I have removed the driveshaft tube to expose the u joint ears and put ratchet straps on it and the rear end. I've hammered while its being pulled, and still no luck. I've sprayed it with PB blaster, and have let it sit for 24 hrs. The slip yoke itself will fully spin inside the transfer case both ways. Any help would be appreciated.