Making sure I’m doing this right. Left car off for about 45 minutes (2003 jeep liberty). Battery has died about 3 times over the last 4 months

Just bought a 2004 350Z. Noticed a rhythmic humming/vibration with slight left steering input at highway speeds, plus clunking when turning the wheel while parked.
Jacked up the right front and found play/clunking when rocking the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock. In the video, the lower ball joint appears to move independently of the control arm.

Does this look like a bad lower ball joint or something else? Maybe ball joint is just loose and I need to get back under and tighten? I thought ball joint play was typically found at 12 and 6, rather than 3 and 9. TIA

Edit: I don’t need it to look brand new or anything. Literally just don’t want water to puddle in the mean time till my new ones come in.

09 Volvo S60 2.5T, need help identifying the source of knocking noise from engine bay. Thanks

Bought a 1972 c10 350 for a project, rebuilding it and all is going fine. Intake manifold gaskets were toast so doing those. Come to find out the old guy didn't put in a manifold bolt. Went and got one only to find I have zero ways to get this thing torqued. No sockets fit and I think the casting may be off. Any suggestions? I almost need to Dremel a socket. I loosened all the bolts and adjusted it to get it all the way down finger tight but still no room for a socket or wrench.

What would cause the oil to accumulate on top of the valve cover only when the vehicle is in motion? I had it running for 10+ minutés while watching to see where the oil was coming from, only to have no oil appear. Drive for 5 minutes and the whole valve cover is cóated in oil.

Any ideas where to start looking?

Thanks everyone

Kind of a weird sound going on,
Bought it off some random junkyard mechanic, it runs but has a hard time under load, engine shudders, looser power, sounds like a misfire.

The junkyard mechanic said he changed the timer belt and the distributor/spark plugs and wires, so I’m guessing they were trying to fix a misfire problem.

Can barely get it to run up to 60km/h

I bought a car a few days ago but this is the holes that were drilled into the plate frame is there a specific screw that is actually that shape I can use? The little square shaped license tab didn’t work they were too big and I don’t wanna drill a hole into the body of the car to make new holes. Am I just better off getting a fresh new license plate backing frame and making new holes?

could this be hemi tick?

2007 Monte Carlo SS, sorry for the video format this was taken off Snapchat 🫡

I’ve been toying around with an intermittent electrical ghost which would trigger the door locks to go off and the entire electrical system to go haywire.

A couple days ago, every dash instrument went dead and I had to park the car since it put itself into limp mode. After some diagnosing, I got a code saying the car had lost comm. With the TCM, and I can get it to replicate the issue consistently by wiggling the TCM wiring harness.

What I have managed to find is that whenever the TCM casing is connected to a ground (what you see me doing in the video, it’s a multimeter lead on a chassis ground) I will have full communication with the TCM and read all of its live data with my scanner.

I tested for continuity between the connector and all of the grounds and negative terminal which all passed. Both GMLAN +/- l’s on the TCM are receiving .5V / .8V on the two respective Communication wires, but they are only receiving (I’m not sure if this is an issue or not).

If anyone has any help on this I’d greatly appreciate it. I think I’ve gone as far as I can with the tools I have available but I’m willing to dig a little deeper if anyone has advice.

Honda CRV 2010, 194K Miles

For a 2023 subaru impreza.

Got it on Amazon. Box was damaged, but the filter seems okay. The folds are bent a little.

This shouldn't be a problem, right? Or should I return and get another one?

Sorry if it's unclear. I didn't want to take it out in case I should return it.

Did I possibly get screwed over?

2013 Volvo s60

In march, I went in to have my driver side front spindle assembly replaced. I provided the part and just needed the labor.

Backstory. 2 weeks earlier while doing a tire at Mavis, they let me know that I needed the new Spindle, and that my Axle bolt was completely corroded. And to head to a shop that's more equipped for the job. Also that I might need a new Axle too since it might get messed up while getting the bolt out since it was crazy corroded.

Dropped it off to the next shop to do the Spindle, and got a call back that my Axle bolt was corroded and they have to go grab a part etc etc. I knew about the bolt obviously, but I didn't quite catch what they actually needed. Okay fine just do it. This is my fault. I didn't think they said a new Axle was needed but whatever.

I pick up the car, and as you can see on the receipt l, an entire new Axle assembly was bought and put on. I figured whatever, I'm sure I'll have to do the Axle at some point anyway.

Today while getting another freakin flat tire fixed, a new Mavis let me that I need a new front driver side axle. I was confused since I thought I just got that done. And as you can see in the pictures, that appears to absolutely not be a new Axle that was put on in March.

So I ask, did I get screwed? The shop clearly did not replace the Axle, but charged for it. And how was I supposed to verify it? I'm not going up and under to see that area.

Do I have any move here?

Hello all, been having this odd sound come from my left front wheel area.

Sound only started after I installed Gerald and slotted brakes on my car. Sound only happens when going in between 20 and 40 kilometres per hour ( or 12 to 24 MPH )

I put a video of the sound in this text, I own a 2015 Audi A4 manual, ~116,000 km.

Could this be a clutch issue or something as simple as the bolts holding in my tires?

As my title says. I have not performed transmission oil change on my 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport AWD for 261k miles. Recently, I noticed that when I start my car, I feel the gear shift is not smooth anymore. How much damage can I do if I perform transmission fluid drain and fill? Maybe perform another drain and fluid after driving 500 miles again? Let me get your expert advice. I am no mechanic.

When using live data to try to diagnose a problem, my short term fuel trims are crazy high and get worse with throttle. The web is telling me it's a fuel delivery issue because it doesn't drop under load. Tested fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator. Both working like they should. Was going to clean and test injectors today and reassemble and see if that fixes it. If not, anyone have any suggestions on where to go next to track down a lean code that's pointing to fuel delivery instead of a vacuum leak or air problem? Also if im mistaken about the fuel trims please correct me. 1998 honda crv B series motor manual transmission. Any help is appreciated.

Is this something that I should be concerned about? Thanks for your time.

My clutch is slipping in 2,4,6th gear and I was sure about that. But suddenly over the night it fixed itself and was working perfectly fine for about 200kilometers, and now it slips again. Now I am not sure whether is clutch slipping or something else? How does it works like crap, but now works perflectly fine for 200km and after does not work again?

Hi guys, so I've been looking around for a new Ford (europe) and I want to avoid the wet belt at all cost.

I used to have a 1.0 3 cilinder Focus and that didn't go too well...

So I'll definitely won't get a 1.0.

I now have a 2.0 hybrid Mondeo which has a chain. No complaints here!

But as a second car we're looking around for something like a Focus but it comes either with a 1.0 or a 1.5.

Apparently the 1.5 comes with either the wet belt or a chain.

And while looking up specs, one half of the websites claim that the 1.5 4 cilinder has a belt and the 3 cilinder has a chain, and the other half claims it's the other way around.

So which one is it?

Build year range is 2018-2024 i think and I believe there are two MK's in these years.

2012 Subaru forester xp
192k miles

Long story short, been saying there’s something off with the steering so finally got it jacked up and took a look at it. Obviously needs control arms done (bushings and ball joints mostly). Planned on doing sway bar links too. Pretty confident the transmission is going out on it so I’m hesitant to put money into the car. Is this at the “absolutely do not drive it” stage yet or can I get a couple of weeks out of it while figuring out where to go from here?

I do not want to drive it. I don’t feel comfortable driving it but I live at home and my father keeps telling me that it’s fine. This is pretty much my only mode of transportation to and from work unless I can catch rides.

Looking for a recommendation.

Good afternoon everyone. Somwhat a beginner here. My 2008 toyota sienna LE 107500 miles, very well kept maintenance wise. When driving very slow, while soft braking going straight, as well as turning, I get a phantom abs activation for a brief second, but there are no dashboard lights on. I have a couple of basic code readers that show nothing, but i'm looking to get a obd scanner, that will help me out with this. Google is suggesting I need something with live reading? Recording? I don't want to spend a lot of money, but I also don't want to buy garbage. I want one that I can use on other vehicles as well. Thank you

( 2019 Veloster turbo ultimate ) My tire wouldn’t take air at the gas station. guy at discount tire said he had an adapter to make it take air. He filled them up.
Apparently my valve stem is too short so it won’t make a connection at the gas station air pump.
Will these help!

Hi everyone, I need help diagnosing my 2016 Lexus IS 300, 3.5L V6 (2GR-FSE).
The engine cranks but won’t start.
My OBD2 scanner cannot communicate with the vehicle.
The Check Engine light comes on with the ignition ON.
Starting fluid makes the engine attempt to start slightly, but it won’t run.
I disconnected the fuel line and confirmed that fuel comes out when attempting to start.
I’m using the original key, but the remote lock/unlock functions are not working.
Some people suspect a bad ECM, but I want to confirm the cause before replacing it.

Could this be an ECM power/ground issue, EFI relay, immobilizer problem, or CAN bus fault? Has anyone experienced similar symptoms on this model and found the actual cause?
Any diagnostic advice or wiring diagram references would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Time stamp 10:43 for video.

I followed this guide video while installing my transmission on my 2001 Honda prelude. What I’m paranoid about is that I found out after I installed the trans that you’re not supposed to close the gap with the bell housing bolts when mating the transmission to the engine (which is what I did and what he seems to do in the video).

The transmission went in smoothly, I never heard an extremely loud popping or cracking noise. I lined up and connected the bevels as close as possible. I used a small hand ratchet to close the gap with no resistance. I didn’t tighten all the way yet (only when the gap was closed). I thought it felt good until I learned there is supposed to be no gap before bolting.

Am I being paranoid or should I do a sanity check and pull the transmission for any damage. If I should check what do I check to assess the damage. This is my first time doing a manual swap and there’s not a lot of videos for my car on how a transmission should be installed so I followed this one.

Never thought as a mechanic myself I would be posting here, I have a 2012 f250 and my brake lights are not working. I have checked all 4 fuses related to those lights. I have power getting to my brake light switch. I put in a new motor craft brake switch and it did not work. The lights turn on for my turn signals/hazards, as well as when I unlock and lock the truck. I don’t know what else to check and I’m hoping it is not the BCM or something. Just looking for ideas no matter how stupid they may sound. My scanner is also not registered. I suck at electrical diag so I’m hoping you guys can help me out.