Hi,

I drive a 2020 Mazda 6 GS-L in white. Due to new responsibilities at work, I was given a work vehicle and due to this, I don’t have any use for personal vehicle.

I am able to park 2 cars in my parking space so I park my Mazda in and then the other car. I’ve done this for 2 weeks. My personal car would be parked at a family member’s house for the time being. I did a final inspection of my car and noticed this.

What could have made this mark? I rent and there’s others that have access to the driveway.

Looking to swap to all season tyres so I don't have to change them twice a year. I need 215/45 R17.

Shortlist so far is Michelin CrossClimate 2, Goodyear Vector 4Seasons and Continental AllSeasonContact, but I'm open to cheaper options if they're decent.

Mostly care about wet grip, braking and how long they last. Light snow performance is a bonus.

If you run all seasons, how many miles have you had out of them and would you buy them again? Anything you wish you'd known before switching?

Making sure I’m doing this right. Left car off for about 45 minutes (2003 jeep liberty). Battery has died about 3 times over the last 4 months

I have a 1990 Miata. Sometimes when I turn on the AC, no air comes out of the vents and the RPM shoots up to around 2,000. Restarting the car fixes the issue, and the AC works fine with the RPM in the normal range.

Any idea what could be causing this? I would appreciate any input

2016 Hyundai Elantra

I have a rental Trax and we all know they want you to return the car on a full tank. Well I know the MPG with E85 is worse than with regular gas and I don't plan to use it while I have the car. BUT how do I tell if it's flex fuel the gas cap says E85/gas but there's no flex fuel badge and the manual covers all trim levels.

I have a 2000 Ford F350 bucket truck 5.4L with 250,000 miles that I'm having constant automatic transmission failures. My hopes are that the mechanic's that I was using, were getting the transmissions rebuilt at crappy place and did crappy work. I am asking for any input or suggestions as to what else may have happened to them so that I can get the problem fixed.

Short version, In the last 25,000ish miles 5ish years I have gone thru 3 rebuilt transmissions with the last one failed this last Thursday.

Long version, I purchased the truck used and put it straight into work. After a few months in we noticed that reverse was becoming week and would most likely fail before to long. So I had the mechanic's I was using find me another transmission. They located a used one and recommended that I have it rebuilt, which I agreed to. We were so busy at the time we limped along with the truck for about a year and a half. Reverse got so bad that if it was on a downhill slope we would have to push it back. Finally, the shifting linkage broke and we had to get it fixed. When we got it back reverse was amazing and strong but it seemed to me that the forward gears seemed week. The mechanic's told me that was because it had set on the shelf too long (a year and a half) and the transmission fluid separated/coagulated and would most likely fix itself over time. Well, it didn't and in less than a year the transmission had failed. They sent it off for rebuild and after they got it back, they were busy and didn't get it back in for about 2 months. When it was done it had great forward gears but no reverse at all. The transmission shop that rebuilt it retired an closed its doors in the time it took to install the transmission and would not warrantee it. So they sent it to a different shop and had it rebuilt. Got it back in the truck and it seemed fine, not great when it had the great reverse or when it had the great forward gears but just good. I had the mechanic's go ahead and have the new shop rebuild one of the transmissions we had for the truck since we had it available, the new shop told us that they would put the extra heavy-duty parts in this transmission since we weren't in a hurry to get it back. The transmission lasted about a year and a half before we had to put the spare with the heavy-duty parts in it onto the truck. now a year or so later here I am again needing a new transmission.

I'm no longer using the same mechanics, so if was something they were doing that problem should be solved. It's broke down 4hrs from home so I'm probably going to see if I can find someone in the Espanola, NM area to swap it out. Plus, I'm looking for a new transmission, I didn't keep the last spare transmission I had since it had already been rebuilt and failed a couple of times already.

Recently acquired a 73 chally that’s in really good shape for a hell of a price. I went to take it on its maiden voyage to a car show yesterday evening, and while going about 30 mph on a back road, I hit a bump, the car got really shaky, the rear drum brakes completely locked up, and the car died on me. Started again with a jump, but the brakes were still locked up. Got a tow truck to take it back to my house, and when it was getting winched onto the trailer, the brakes broke free, but I’m scared it’s going to happen again. Any idea what could cause it? Was told the brakes might need bled or something about the shoes being too tight. TIA!

As the title says im trying to replace my blower motor resistor on my 2013 f150. The old one (white with 4 prongs) is being replaced with flat black one. The flat black one connects to the wires exactly but are they actually interchangeable? The flat black one got extremely hot and started to smell like burnt plastic when I tested it. Any info to help would be much appreciated! Pictures attached

When ever I try to start my car, this is what I hear for about 5 seconds before it stop without starting the car. I know it not a dead battery cause I put jumpers on it and got the same result. Any ideas would be appreciated

2012 accord v6

It’s (or was) 17mm. My socket slipped a couple times and after that it was just spinning (the socket, not the bolt). No power tools, just sockets and breakers. I’ve tried extractor sockets, vice grips, 16mm sockets. I’m out of ideas. Any suggestions are appreciated

rear differential fluid leak with pinion seal

Anyone run into a rear pinion seal leak and how much it cost ya?

After running then parked has few drops under vehicle on ground.

Any warning signs when to drive or not would be appreciated especially from experience/mechanic.

Thank you.

On my Honda odyssey 2021 does it look like this boot is missing a clamp? Its riding up and looks loose unlike the other side.

I'll try to make this short. Rear pads and rotors were replaced with ceramic by a Fountain Tire shop. There was some squealing so we replaced them with cheaper pads, suspecting maybe it was the denseness of the ceramic. A lot of the squealing went away but now there is a persistent squeal whenever I back up with light pressure on the brakes. There seems to be a service bulletin about this but FT can't diagnose and says they're fine. I don't know where to go from here. Paid for a brake job and I'm left with squeaky brakes.

Changing the oil the other day, I noticed a pink spot on the Inverter radiator (which is in front of the engine radiator) of my son's car (our old car). It looks like a small rock may have hit it and damaged the horizontal tubes and the fins about 1/2" inboard from the passenger side header. The damaged spot is the size of a pinkie fingernail, with dried-ish pink stuff (i.e., likely residue from the pink coolant). I recon that I should replace the inverter coolant radiator (Toyota part #: G9010-48010) but just for the part, the dealers want $1200, online OEM, $660, and Amayama (Toyota OEM) $500. I can find various aftermarket ones for $200-$300, but I'm not sure I want to risk it since if it fails, and I don't shut the engine off fast enough, the loss of cooling can fry my inverter drive system. Does anyone have any experience with any of this? Are their any good aftermarket ones? Of course I'll put it in myself; it looks pretty easy (I've already replaced the engine radiator twice. The second one, a Denso aftermarket, has lasted 10 years). Thanks a lot!

Codes that it has thrown lead me to believe it needs a purge valve. It surges from normal rpms or even slightly above (900ish) to like 1200-1100 then slowly back down. Keep in mind this is off cold start i’ll get video of after it’s been driven and started again. Any tips would be nice. Also the belt screeches upon start after sitting for a while maybe condensation build up not sure. Sometimes it throws cel but after a day or so goes away for a few weeks. And sometimes upon coming to a traffic light it will slightly more violently surge up and down but lower like 400ish to normal /900ish area then steady out.

I recently bought lowering springs for my 2012 MK6 golf and the plan was to use 40mm lowering springs to lower the car slightly but not have it slammed, The car looked way too high when on 18 inch wheels and a friend i knew was selling his lowering springs, The brand I am unsure of but he had them in for about a day before he removed them and bought coilovers, He usually dosent cheap out when it comes to car parts so I expected them to be good quality. After installing the springs the height front and drivers side was perfect, but then the rear passenger side was noticeably lower than rest and made a slight slant when looking at the car from behind. I could fit a solid 3 fingers in the drivers side and a tight 2 fingers in the passenger. This mixed with the fact that when i fully lock the car left or right when reversing or pulling out of a corner the front wheels start to rub and thats on 26 inch vw wheels. Are these just cheap coilovers and a waste of time or can I actually do something to have the car lowered like this without having to remove them springs again.

Hi everyone,

I own a 2018 BMW 118i F20 with the B38 1.5L turbocharged petrol engine, and I’m trying to figure out what could be causing excessive oil consumption.
The car has 215,000 km on it, and I’m becoming increasingly concerned about how quickly the oil level seems to drop.

Here are the symptoms and what I’ve noticed so far:

The oil level seems to drop faster during motorway driving, especially at higher speeds and RPM.

I’ve had to add approximately 1 litre of oil over the last 1,250–1,500 km twice now, did a full oil change after the first time, didn’t help. I’m using premium castrol 5w30 oil.

There are no visible external oil leaks.

The car produces no smoke or smell whatsover.

The car seems to drive normally, with no noticeable loss of power, and the turbo doesn’t make any unusual noises that I’ve noticed.

The crankcase ventilation (PCV) was briefly checked by removing the oil filler cap, there was no hard suction while removing it.

So what could be causing this? I’m particularly concerned about a turbocharger oil seal leak or Worn or stuck piston oil control rings. Has anyone experienced similar oil consumption on the B38 engine at higher mileage? if so what was the confirmed cause in your case: turbo, piston rings, PCV, valve stem seals, or something else? How much did the repairs cost? Is it even worth repairing or can I just keep refilling oil, or would this cause major problems in the future?

What diagnostic tests would you recommend before spending money on repairs?

I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who experienced this and found the actual cause, especially if the issue was confirmed and successfully repaired.

Thanks!

It's not plugged in, guess I bought it like that. I didn't see anything to plug it in.

It's a Golf 3, 1.8 90HP ADZ engine

Hi all,

I drive an 09 Subaru Outback.

Timing belt was changed January 2024 @ 83,921 miles. Car is currently @ 96,327 miles.

When I start my car for the first time after it’s been sitting (say a day or two) there’s a burning smell when it first starts up. The smell goes away fairly quickly and will doesn’t come back if I turn the car off and on again after a brief drive. Sometimes there is also a slight skidding sound when I first start the engine.

I’ve attached a video of a sound that’s coming from one of the belts. Is it a normal sound? Would all these symptoms indicate that the belt needs changing?

I want to add that the noise from the belt calms down quite a bit when the car warms up.

Thanks in advance,
J

09 Volvo S60 2.5T, need help identifying the source of knocking noise from engine bay. Thanks

Hi, so my car suddenly (I think) pops from the exhaust and blows white smoke. Is this a normal amount of smoke and are these pops expected after a chiptune? The chiptune is done with a good tuner.

I have a friend’s car to check out - 2009 Renault Grand Scenic II. The headlights have been set (I assume in the UCH module) to Scandinavian mode. Is there any way to change this or completely disable these options? I tried using Pyclip, but in my version, it only lets me run a test, even though the forum shows “on” and “off” functions that can be used.
The car was also at the mechanic's, who hooked up his 2 computers (no Clip), but that didn't help either.