If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Making sure I’m doing this right. Left car off for about 45 minutes (2003 jeep liberty). Battery has died about 3 times over the last 4 months

09 Volvo S60 2.5T, need help identifying the source of knocking noise from engine bay. Thanks

could this be hemi tick?

Bought a 1972 c10 350 for a project, rebuilding it and all is going fine. Intake manifold gaskets were toast so doing those. Come to find out the old guy didn't put in a manifold bolt. Went and got one only to find I have zero ways to get this thing torqued. No sockets fit and I think the casting may be off. Any suggestions? I almost need to Dremel a socket. I loosened all the bolts and adjusted it to get it all the way down finger tight but still no room for a socket or wrench.

Hi guys I need some help figuring out what went wrong with the brake job I have been helping my friend with on his 2007 Acura TL. We bought new rotors, pads and brake fluid, all of it has been installed with no issues and we're onto the brake bleeding stage.

Started bleeding from the rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger and then finally the front driver side.

The first three were going perfect, push pedal, open valve, close valve, release pedal, all came out with a steady stream of fluid. Then moving onto the front driver side where its hardly getting a steady trickle.

I would like to note something I think is important, when we were trying to push in the piston to put the caliper back on it wouldn't go in so I cracked the bleeder valve to relieve some pressure, didn't work, cracked the banjo bolt and welp of course it sprayed everywhere then the piston went in, didn't think anything of it till now.

When the caliper is disconnected from the flexible part by the banjo bolt fluid runs freely through it but once connected to the caliper is hardly flows as much. Both the hard line and the hose freely have fluid run through them until the caliper is attached. Also note when the caliper is fully removed I can move the piston by hand in and out but when connected to the brake line it wont budge with my hands nor by applying force to the brake pedal.

I will say I am thoroughly confused and after doing some research it seems like either the brake line is collapsed or the piston caliper is seized/too much pressure. I'm thinking about picking up a new brake line from AutoZone for $50 but I need your guys opinion on what the problem is and what to do.

It's not plugged in, guess I bought it like that. I didn't see anything to plug it in.

It's a Golf 3, 1.8 90HP ADZ engine

I think my mechanic torqued my lower control arm with the suspension hanging.

I want to jack up the control arm to normal ride height, loosen the bolts, and retorque them.

My question is: -Should I loosen the bolts with the suspension loaded or unloaded? -How much should I loosen them—just a couple of turns, or do i need to remove the bolt all the way?

Thank you

2012 Subaru forester xp
192k miles

Long story short, been saying there’s something off with the steering so finally got it jacked up and took a look at it. Obviously needs control arms done (bushings and ball joints mostly). Planned on doing sway bar links too. Pretty confident the transmission is going out on it so I’m hesitant to put money into the car. Is this at the “absolutely do not drive it” stage yet or can I get a couple of weeks out of it while figuring out where to go from here?

I do not want to drive it. I don’t feel comfortable driving it but I live at home and my father keeps telling me that it’s fine. This is pretty much my only mode of transportation to and from work unless I can catch rides.

It has 100k miles on it. I bought it with no reverse, When I put it into reverse the reverse lights go on and the idle changes sounds like it switches gear, at first I was thinking a linkage and I checked it. I was just wondering what else I should check before I get a new transmission?

I was wondering what a part is call and the way I can explain it is that there is hot air coming into the cab without the fan blower on and I know what the part looks like I just can’t for the life of me figure out the part and it looks like the old own cut it up so he can get to the spark plug in the back of the engine bay and if someone could help that would be great

2007 Monte Carlo SS, sorry for the video format this was taken off Snapchat 🫡

I’ve been toying around with an intermittent electrical ghost which would trigger the door locks to go off and the entire electrical system to go haywire.

A couple days ago, every dash instrument went dead and I had to park the car since it put itself into limp mode. After some diagnosing, I got a code saying the car had lost comm. With the TCM, and I can get it to replicate the issue consistently by wiggling the TCM wiring harness.

What I have managed to find is that whenever the TCM casing is connected to a ground (what you see me doing in the video, it’s a multimeter lead on a chassis ground) I will have full communication with the TCM and read all of its live data with my scanner.

I tested for continuity between the connector and all of the grounds and negative terminal which all passed. Both GMLAN +/- l’s on the TCM are receiving .5V / .8V on the two respective Communication wires, but they are only receiving (I’m not sure if this is an issue or not).

If anyone has any help on this I’d greatly appreciate it. I think I’ve gone as far as I can with the tools I have available but I’m willing to dig a little deeper if anyone has advice.

Hey everyone, would anyone know what this constant ticking noise is coming from the ecu? It continuously ticks whenever the car is on and even when im driving.

What would cause the oil to accumulate on top of the valve cover only when the vehicle is in motion? I had it running for 10+ minutés while watching to see where the oil was coming from, only to have no oil appear. Drive for 5 minutes and the whole valve cover is cóated in oil.

Any ideas where to start looking?

Thanks everyone

Edit: I don’t need it to look brand new or anything. Literally just don’t want water to puddle in the mean time till my new ones come in.

Honda CRV 2010, 194K Miles

For a 2023 subaru impreza.

Got it on Amazon. Box was damaged, but the filter seems okay. The folds are bent a little.

This shouldn't be a problem, right? Or should I return and get another one?

Sorry if it's unclear. I didn't want to take it out in case I should return it.

Kind of a weird sound going on,
Bought it off some random junkyard mechanic, it runs but has a hard time under load, engine shudders, looser power, sounds like a misfire.

The junkyard mechanic said he changed the timer belt and the distributor/spark plugs and wires, so I’m guessing they were trying to fix a misfire problem.

Can barely get it to run up to 60km/h

Looking for a recommendation.

Good afternoon everyone. Somwhat a beginner here. My 2008 toyota sienna LE 107500 miles, very well kept maintenance wise. When driving very slow, while soft braking going straight, as well as turning, I get a phantom abs activation for a brief second, but there are no dashboard lights on. I have a couple of basic code readers that show nothing, but i'm looking to get a obd scanner, that will help me out with this. Google is suggesting I need something with live reading? Recording? I don't want to spend a lot of money, but I also don't want to buy garbage. I want one that I can use on other vehicles as well. Thank you

I bought a car a few days ago but this is the holes that were drilled into the plate frame is there a specific screw that is actually that shape I can use? The little square shaped license tab didn’t work they were too big and I don’t wanna drill a hole into the body of the car to make new holes. Am I just better off getting a fresh new license plate backing frame and making new holes?

( 2019 Veloster turbo ultimate ) My tire wouldn’t take air at the gas station. guy at discount tire said he had an adapter to make it take air. He filled them up.
Apparently my valve stem is too short so it won’t make a connection at the gas station air pump.
Will these help!

Did I possibly get screwed over?

2013 Volvo s60

In march, I went in to have my driver side front spindle assembly replaced. I provided the part and just needed the labor.

Backstory. 2 weeks earlier while doing a tire at Mavis, they let me know that I needed the new Spindle, and that my Axle bolt was completely corroded. And to head to a shop that's more equipped for the job. Also that I might need a new Axle too since it might get messed up while getting the bolt out since it was crazy corroded.

Dropped it off to the next shop to do the Spindle, and got a call back that my Axle bolt was corroded and they have to go grab a part etc etc. I knew about the bolt obviously, but I didn't quite catch what they actually needed. Okay fine just do it. This is my fault. I didn't think they said a new Axle was needed but whatever.

I pick up the car, and as you can see on the receipt, an entire new Axle assembly was bought and put on. I figured whatever, I'm sure I'll have to do the Axle at some point anyway.

Today while getting another freakin flat tire fixed, a new Mavis let me that I need a new front driver side axle. I was confused since I thought I just got that done. And as you can see in the pictures, that appears to absolutely not be a new Axle that was put on in March.

So I ask, did I get screwed? The shop clearly did not replace the Axle, but charged for it. And how was I supposed to verify it? I'm not going up and under to see that area.

Do I have any move here?

Hi everyone, I need help diagnosing my 2016 Lexus IS 300, 3.5L V6 (2GR-FSE).
The engine cranks but won’t start.
My OBD2 scanner cannot communicate with the vehicle.
The Check Engine light comes on with the ignition ON.
Starting fluid makes the engine attempt to start slightly, but it won’t run.
I disconnected the fuel line and confirmed that fuel comes out when attempting to start.
I’m using the original key, but the remote lock/unlock functions are not working.
Some people suspect a bad ECM, but I want to confirm the cause before replacing it.

Could this be an ECM power/ground issue, EFI relay, immobilizer problem, or CAN bus fault? Has anyone experienced similar symptoms on this model and found the actual cause?
Any diagnostic advice or wiring diagram references would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!