Edit: I don’t need it to look brand new or anything. Literally just don’t want water to puddle in the mean time till my new ones come in.

My car throws a miss fire on cylinder 3 everytime the weather changes and it gets really cold after being warm. Last time it did it I changed out the coil pack and spark plug. Its fine until the temp drops then I get the code again. Anyone else ever run into this?

Title: Chevy Suburban 6.5 TD – Oil disappearing, engine stalling and ticking noise
I have a 1996 Chevy Suburban 6.5 turbo diesel.
Recently, the engine started making a ticking noise, and the check engine light came on briefly. A few days later, the engine started randomly stalling while driving and sometimes struggled to restart.
I checked the oil and the dipstick is completely dry, even after letting the engine sit for hours. Oil pressure on the dashboard appeared normal.
I removed the upper intake and turbo intake piping and found wet, black engine oil throughout the intake system. The turbo spins freely with no noticeable shaft play. I also inspected the CDR valve, and the spring and internal parts seem fine.
The exhaust smoke has also changed from black to more greyish.

Could the turbo or CDR system be causing excessive oil consumption, or should I be looking elsewhere? Any advice on what to check next?

Hi everyone, I took my 2008 Toyota RAV4 (2.4L, 85K miles) in for a Brake Inspection at a local shop in the Bay Area (CA), and they came back with 15 recommended services totaling $13,128.09 (or $11,563.52 excluding a duplicate control arm quote). The blue book estimated the car worth about $5,000 to $6,000. Is it worth keeping and repairing?

• Vehicle: 2008 Toyota RAV4 (2.4L 4-Cyl, 2WD)
• Odometer: 85K miles
• Advisor Note: "We found active oil and underbody fluid leaks that need attention; losing fluid can lead to costly damage or a breakdown. The rear wiper may not clear rain well, and the license plate lights are out. We also noted some wear in the steering and suspension that could affect handling and tire wear over time."

Questions:

• Brakes ($1,051 Front / $1,054 Rear): Front pads are at 3–4 mm, so I know those need doing soon, and a brake fluid flush makes sense if the pedal feels soft. Rear pads are at 4–6 mm. Is ~$1,050 per axle insane even for Bay Area pricing?
• Valve Cover Gasket ($340): Looking at the valve cover and underbody photos, how bad is this leak? If I fix the valve cover gasket ($340 or DIY), is the underbody oil likely just runoff from the top?
• Suspension ($8,657+ total for struts, control arms, sway bar links): Do the rubber bushings/boots and strut seepage in the photos actually warrant replacement right now at 85k miles, or is this normal age-related surface cracking/weeping?
• Parking Brake ('More than 3 clicks' for $219): Isn't 7–9 clicks completely normal factory spec for a 3rd-gen RAV4 parking brake lever? Is this really necessary?

See more details and photos at https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQVw5pfdkQ6FbqskiTGeBsYOe22m1FX96rk_Oc1ekcGWtSRDeBX8rB50mLFzHn21A3LDzjg_OznhXk2/pub

I've been having service issues with my local shop. Basically they had to replace my oil pan on a 2018 Honda CRV because of a screw up on their part. However they didn't put it in right the first time and I had to take it in twice cause it was still leaking. I have not had to pay anything to them since it's under their labor warranty.

The second time it seemed like they fixed it(I think they put some kind of metal seal between the pan and the engine block?) there was no more drops or active leaking. However since they made me paranoid, I've been checking under the car and have noticed seepage in the seam between the pan and engine block. It takes a few days to become visible and in the 1.5 months since they addressed it I have not seen any oil spots or dripping.

I took it back in and the store manager (who said he used to work at a dealership) said this is okay and within manufacturing specs.

Is he telling the truth? It's been dragging on and I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the hassle of fighting him on it.

Ticking sound or rattle coming from engine on 2009 c300. 3.0 n/a V6 can anyone please tell me what this possibly could be. It comes and goes, started yesterday. No engine codes and it performs perfectly fine . Any help is appreciated thx

Doing regular maintenance on a 2012 Infinity and just need to know if there's any rusted components I should replace. Things like the Oil Pan Nut, Tie Rods, the O2 sensor. I've thought about replacing the exhaust but the hangar seems to torched.

Just had the rear rotors and pads replaced so shots of those are a little dated.

Any help appreciated.

Could any mechanics tell me what it is? Will it be hard to replace and maybe if you’re feeling generous what it might cost me?

I hit the tire to the curb when turning, speed about 5-10 mph and these are the result. No air leaked, the deepest depth is about 3-5 mm in. do I need a new tire? I am afraid that might explode the tire during the fast ride 😂. Also the rim is scratching so for that speed can I damage the static balance or the inside gear around that area? (I am just an overthink person) 😅

As my title says. I have not performed transmission oil change on my 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport AWD for 261k miles. Recently, I noticed that when I start my car, I feel the gear shift is not smooth anymore. How much damage can I do if I perform transmission fluid drain and fill? Maybe perform another drain and fluid after driving 500 miles again? Let me get your expert advice. I am no mechanic.

Is this something that I should be concerned about? Thanks for your time.

Making sure I’m doing this right. Left car off for about 45 minutes (2003 jeep liberty). Battery has died about 3 times over the last 4 months

What would cause the oil to accumulate on top of the valve cover only when the vehicle is in motion? I had it running for 10+ minutés while watching to see where the oil was coming from, only to have no oil appear. Drive for 5 minutes and the whole valve cover is cóated in oil.

Any ideas where to start looking?

Thanks everyone

Just bought a 2004 350Z. Noticed a rhythmic humming/vibration with slight left steering input at highway speeds, plus clunking when turning the wheel while parked.
Jacked up the right front and found play/clunking when rocking the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock. In the video, the lower ball joint appears to move independently of the control arm.

Does this look like a bad lower ball joint or something else? Maybe ball joint is just loose and I need to get back under and tighten? I thought ball joint play was typically found at 12 and 6, rather than 3 and 9. TIA

could this be hemi tick?

When using live data to try to diagnose a problem, my short term fuel trims are crazy high and get worse with throttle. The web is telling me it's a fuel delivery issue because it doesn't drop under load. Tested fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator. Both working like they should. Was going to clean and test injectors today and reassemble and see if that fixes it. If not, anyone have any suggestions on where to go next to track down a lean code that's pointing to fuel delivery instead of a vacuum leak or air problem? Also if im mistaken about the fuel trims please correct me. 1998 honda crv B series motor manual transmission. Any help is appreciated.

For a 2023 subaru impreza.

Got it on Amazon. Box was damaged, but the filter seems okay. The folds are bent a little.

This shouldn't be a problem, right? Or should I return and get another one?

Sorry if it's unclear. I didn't want to take it out in case I should return it.

Having a problem with my opel karl, trying to figure out if the noise is coming from the belt or the tensioner Opel karl 1.0 2018 Lpg engine gm b10xe

Honda CRV 2010, 194K Miles

Bought a 1972 c10 350 for a project, rebuilding it and all is going fine. Intake manifold gaskets were toast so doing those. Come to find out the old guy didn't put in a manifold bolt. Went and got one only to find I have zero ways to get this thing torqued. No sockets fit and I think the casting may be off. Any suggestions? I almost need to Dremel a socket. I loosened all the bolts and adjusted it to get it all the way down finger tight but still no room for a socket or wrench.

( 2019 Veloster turbo ultimate ) My tire wouldn’t take air at the gas station. guy at discount tire said he had an adapter to make it take air. He filled them up.
Apparently my valve stem is too short so it won’t make a connection at the gas station air pump.
Will these help!

My clutch is slipping in 2,4,6th gear and I was sure about that. But suddenly over the night it fixed itself and was working perfectly fine for about 200kilometers, and now it slips again. Now I am not sure whether is clutch slipping or something else? How does it works like crap, but now works perflectly fine for 200km and after does not work again?

2007 Monte Carlo SS, sorry for the video format this was taken off Snapchat 🫡

I’ve been toying around with an intermittent electrical ghost which would trigger the door locks to go off and the entire electrical system to go haywire.

A couple days ago, every dash instrument went dead and I had to park the car since it put itself into limp mode. After some diagnosing, I got a code saying the car had lost comm. With the TCM, and I can get it to replicate the issue consistently by wiggling the TCM wiring harness.

What I have managed to find is that whenever the TCM casing is connected to a ground (what you see me doing in the video, it’s a multimeter lead on a chassis ground) I will have full communication with the TCM and read all of its live data with my scanner.

I tested for continuity between the connector and all of the grounds and negative terminal which all passed. Both GMLAN +/- l’s on the TCM are receiving .5V / .8V on the two respective Communication wires, but they are only receiving (I’m not sure if this is an issue or not).

If anyone has any help on this I’d greatly appreciate it. I think I’ve gone as far as I can with the tools I have available but I’m willing to dig a little deeper if anyone has advice.

09 Volvo S60 2.5T, need help identifying the source of knocking noise from engine bay. Thanks

Is this fine or do I need to top up more?