P1S
Just hit 500 hours in the machine Tensioned belts, cleaned and grease the z axis bed screws, has fresh hardened steel nozzle, Engineering plate

.16 high quality preset
25% infill
3 walls

Aux and chamber fans are pretty well off the entire print, part fan sits at around 20%. Found a preset for the sunlu on makerworld and have just been using that

Using sunlu high speed petg matte black, but had similar issues using regular bambu PLA but not as bad.
Was fine with me as I just sanded, primed and painted…but looking to sell these bodies one day and can’t sell ‘em like looking like that.

Notice the picture with the 2 bodies. First was printed completely vertical and does not have the layer shift. This would be ok, but leads to a lot of clean up on the back of the cab and the panel lines aren’t as clean. The cab at the 60 degree angle looks cleaner overall, but consistently has that layer shift on one side of the print only, and not the exact same layer.

I can attach more detailed presets later on, just off the cuff any ideas?

Cooling issue on the lower layers? Add more supports under the rocker panel portions for stability

Should have led that the filament is straight out of the box/vaccum packaging…so it hasn’t been dried 😅

If anyone has a super dialed present for said sunlu high speed petg, you’d be my hero. I have no idea what I’m doing still after 500 print hours 😆

Printer: Anycubic Kobra S1 Slicer: Anycubic Next Filament: Anycubic PLA+ Temps: 223° (nozzle) /65° (bed) Speed: 160 mm/s Retraction: 0.8 mm

Regarding the left boat and cube respectively, the right ones were done on my old Kobra 2.

I sliced everything printed on the S1 with the Next Slicer and the firmware was updated to current before the first print.

I've gotten a refurb unit as a deal and every print i try turns out like this... It shipped missing one rubber feet (i printed a replacement out of 100% infill TPU on the Kobra 2, machine now stands firm and steady) and two of the screws that hold the back of the printhead cover in place (took two of the back housing, same length and replaced those with spares I had lying around)

Sofar I've tried: * checking the printhead, rods or bed for being wobbly (right side of things bed has a little play, but I've read on the S1 sub that that seems to be normally the case) * tightening every screw i could find and reach * tightening/loosening the extruder tensioning screw * tensioning the belts * different printer profiles (stock/community) * different print speeds * different filaments * putting the machine from a countertop to the damn floor

Nothing so far seems to impact those artifacts whatsoever 😭

Hey guys I noticed on some of my prints it would bubble or melt on the final top layer. It seems to do this when it's a flat surface usually when it's a big open are. I do not have Ironing Enabled at all nor am I trying to use Ironing on these prints. I noticed that if I re print the model it will get progressively better. Sometimes I just have to re print once and its smooth other times I have to do it 2 or 3 times. Smaller or non-organic shapes top layer doesn't seem to have this issue. Any help would be appreciated.

Prusa Mini

PLA + (Both Prints)

0.6MM Hardened Steel Nozzle

Layer Height .2-.25mm

Top/Bottom Shell Layers 4 and 3

10% Infill Gyroid

I am new to 3d printing and just got a creality i7 sparkx.

I have printed a few other things with my PLA (not from creality), like a benchy... Which all came out fine.

I went to a larger, much more complicated model, a mcx replica. (Upper receiver is shown). It has to sit diagonal to fit on the build plate and can't even be on an angle because it won't fit.

I am new to all this and don't really understand all the settings. I used default settings on the tree supports.

As you can see in the photos, a whole support has fallen straight off and left a huge overhang.

I tried printing it upside down before but it didn't work that time either. It only did 5ish layers when I told it to stop.

It was also the first print after I washed the board with water and fairy liquid.

Please can someone help me fix it. I don't know if it is a problem with setting, apparently stock settings are not the best? Or if it could come from another thing, print bed, unstable table, filament.

Please help in the comments. If you want I can send you the model if it helps.

Thank you.

ASA filament that has been vapor-smoothed

Hi everyone,

I'm having a recurring extrusion problem with my Ender 3 V2 and would appreciate some help figuring out the cause.

The problem:
My prints start normally, but at some point during the print, the printer suddenly stops extruding filament. The printer continues all its movements as if everything were working normally, but the nozzle moves around printing in the air without depositing any filament. The print is essentially ruined from that point onward.

I've also noticed a clicking or skipping noise from the extruder when the problem occurs.

What I've tried so far:

• Cleaned the nozzle multiple times.
• Replaced the nozzle, but the problem persisted.
• Checked the extruder gear visually (see attached photo). I'm wondering whether it might be worn out or slipping.

My setup:

• Printer: Creality Ender 3 V2
• Filament: SUNLU PLA+ 2.0
• Firmware: mriscoc professional firmware
• BLTouch with UBL bed leveling
• Textured PEI build plate

I'm currently suspecting the extruder mechanism, possibly a worn drive gear or an extruder motor that starts skipping. However, I'm not sure whether this could also be caused by a clog elsewhere in the hotend, heat creep, incorrect extruder tension, or something else.

My questions:

1. Does the extruder gear in the attached photo look worn enough to cause this?
2. What would you check first, given that cleaning and replacing the nozzle haven't solved the problem?
3. Is there a reliable way to distinguish between a slipping extruder gear, a clog/heat creep, and a failing extruder motor?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Bambu A1 with standard texture plate and eSUN pla +

Slicer used is bambu studio, .4mm nozzle, 220 nozzle temp and 65 bed temp. Retraction length 1mm, print speed 150 mm/s

This mainly only occures on curved overhangs like this. Not sure if an extrusion issue or heating/cooling or bad filament or anything else. Have tried cleaning print bed and cold pull on hot end. Also all calibrations.

Bambu P2S
Bambu slicer
Pa12-cf nylonX by matterhackers
Layer height .16
Bed temp 85
Nozzle temp 265
Initial layer speed 50
Initial layer infill 105
Outer wall 40
Inner wall 60

I think that’s everything if you need more info let me know

I tried printing the Sega logo the other day. No idea what happened but my first instinct is the print exploded somehow. I started it before running some errands and came back to this. There were mangled bits of filament all over the place. The G and A printed fine. What happened here?

What can I take from this I assume the bed is not level. Especially in the back right corner. Should I retram it?

I always get an error code for automatic bed leveling so I don’t use it. I have been through all the Bambu troubleshooting but can’t fix it.

Looking for advice printing Overture black ASA on my Snapmaker U1. On a benchy, the front hull starts to warp. I do not have bed adhesion issues though. It sticks really well to the clean smooth pei sheet with no glue.

Relevant info :
Filament is new and has been dried
Bed temp 100c
Chamber temp gets to 50-55c
Nozzle 260-275c
Cooling none to 80% fan
Printer is enclosed

I can’t seem to find the sweet spot for this filament. If I print it with no cooling like everyone seems to suggest, I get bad warping and overhangs. If I leave cooling on just for overhangs, layer adhesion is noticeably worse and the warping is better but not gone. If I run the generic preset with cooling always on, the print is super clean but has terrible layer adhesion.

Was printing just fine in PETG, changed filament to PLA and I'm having this issues. First layers are not extruding fine, prints delaminate, and spaghetti. Was trying a flow rate calibration but that happened.

Creality K1 Max 2025

Orca Slicer

0.4 layer width

0.12 layer height

First layer speed 60

First layer Infill 105

Outer wall 200

Inner wall 300

Filament settings - - - - -

1.07 flow ratio

0.3 Pressure advance

220 °C first layer, other layers 210 °C

13 mm/s Max volumetric speed

3.3 retraction length

Yeah I know layers will always be visible on FDM prints but these act quite weird, they don't go smoothly with model geometry. Instead it looks like some layers are wider than they should be and others are narrower. It happens along the entire length. (Don't mind the shitty supports, they are only for small features and these are test prints oriented strictly around my problem)

What I realized so far is that the issue seems to be strictly related with walls flow and width, also it's affected by details on current loop. For example on a specific layer along the lips the whole layer tends to be thinner, and on the marked spot this clearly visible one tends to be thicker. The printer just seems to treat the whole wall differently if there's any detail on its surface but slicer shows everything properly so it's not intended behavior.

For the setup and what I did so far: I'm using Centauri Carbon 2 with 0.4 nozzle, orcaslicer 2.4.2, sunlu PLA+ 2.0 beige (sprayed with white primer here because it's really hard to catch the issue on camera, irl it looks worse), 210° nozzle, 55° bed, calibration done, printer well maintained, clean feed path blah blah. 0.1 layer, arachne (but well tuned imho, flow is pretty linear and predictable), 3 walls, 10% infill with 5% infill wall overlap, don't slow down for overhangs and outer walls to maintain linear speed pattern (this one's confirmed to give better quality). Slice looks well, I can't see anything out of the ordinary that could match the issue. I already slowed the print down along with acceleration adjustments, to make the speed linear on smooth surfaces and slow down for sharp details (30mm/s with 1500 acceleration for outer, 50mm/s with 3500 acceleration for inner, this), also I lowered the temp from previous 220 to 210 and raised the fans to make cooling effective. These are the most important things, I hope I didn't forget about anything important, no point at writing about every setting I tried adjusting because it would cause a small encyclopedia. Feel free to ask if you need any more info because I probably forgot about something

So I've been having an issue where the extruder gear sometimes just doesn't turn. It works fine for the first few layers, typically 3 which are much slower in my settings since I mostly print miniatures. I'll sit there and watch it go, with the gear turning just fine as it's laying down the first few layers.

Then after the third layer, it does its little thing where it checks for clumps in the back right corner, except that when it starts printing again, the extruder gear doesn't turn. The nozzle moves as its supposed to, but no filament is being extruded.

It's not a clogged nozzle. After stopping the print, i can manually get it to extrude just fine. I've also tried a new 0.2 nozzle, as well as an old 0.4 nozzle, and i get the same issue regardless of nozzle.

It's not a faulty heating assembly, as I have since replaced the heating assembly to try and fix the issue. (I already had the heating assembly as I was intending to replace an old one that was slightly damaged in a blob of death, but since it was still working just fine, I'd been too lazy to actually do it.)

It's not gunk on the gears. I have taken the extruder apart and scrubbed the gears until its nice and yellow again. or metal and shiny depending on the part.

I've stretched the tension spring a bit in case it wasn't putting enough tension on the filament, and have also tried loosening the screw providing tension to the spring in case it was providing too much tension.

I have tried with default settings for filament and printer both. Still get the same problem. A few layers go down fine, then it stops extruding.

Except that every now and again, for some reason, the printer just works. with default settings and my custom settings too, because I tested both. I'll take it apart, put it back together, and it prints fine. Then it finishes the print, and I'll send another right away, and the same issue crops up. First Layers go down fine, but as soon as it speeds up (to speeds that are already really slow, as I use Obscura Nox settings), the extruder gear just stops turning. It's not even trying, as there's no clicking, only nozzle movement with no attempt to even extrude filament.

I'm at my wits end trying to figure out what's the issue. Since it started happening, I've printed one small goblin on a spider, a trio of small goblins, a little fox, a tiny 28mm head, and a decently sized piplup that's a little bigger than half my hand. When it works, it works great, as once it gets past that third layer, it's fine.

I'm at a complete loss as to what to do next short of buying a new extruder to see if that fixes the issue. Should I just go for it, or is there something else I've missed?

Attached pics of the failed prints and the working ones using different settings since this issue cropped up, but its driving me nuts having to take my extruder apart just to see absolutely nothing wrong, then put it back together and have it work just fine again. If anyone has anything they think I should try, it'd be much appreciated.

Edit: Forgot to add, firmware and software (bambu studio) both up to date, i've checked the ptfe tube for kinks, and I've tried using multiple different SD cards just in case that was the issue.

Edit2: Just watched a print fail after first layer. Again, extruder gear just stops. Doesnt even try to turn, but this time it happened earlier than other instances. No idea what's going on :'(

As the title mentions, my Bambi Labs X2D seems to randomly stop extruding towards the end of long prints (7/8 Hours, 12/13 Hours). Notable characteristics…

- The print is FLAWLESS up until it fails.
- The head still moves as if it is printing but nothing is extruding.
- The extruder is not audibly clicking while moving / “printing”.
- Once I cancel the print I can manually extract via the screen after about a minute. (Is it cooling off of a computer safety stop?) (This clears up a clog.)
- There is still filament available and into the head.
- If I reset the print it immediately extrudes flawlessly.

A few notes of my settings.

- Bambu Labs X2D
- Bambu Studio Slicer
- Fiberon PA6-CF
- 100C Bed Temp
- 60C Chamber Temp
- 290C Nozzle Temp
- 15 mm/s initial and infill. 40 mm/s walls/infill. 10 mm/s overhangs.
- Picture of Extruder Settings (I do not believe I have changed any of these for .6M Nozzle)
- Filament is being pulled directly through an AMS HT (aux tube) at 85C with minimal resistance after I printed the internal stand. (Also stopped printed at roughly 80-90%).
- Filament is dried at 95C for 48 hours.
- Utilizing .6M Tungsten Nozzle
- A inline fan is ducting exhaust air out the window.
- The print becomes spaghetti if I change chamber temperatures, and bed temperature.

The only things that come to mind are a built in temperature over load? I am new to this 3D printing but heat creep? This is becoming more and more frustrating as this filament is not cheap.

Any input will be appreciated.