I recently switched to Orca slicer and need help refining my settings. This is PETG printing at 240C on an 85C bed on my Ender 3 Pro. I did a calibration cube that turned out fine, but have since had issues making adjustments. I've also had stringing issues, but this is the first larger area print I've tried. Let me know what other details you need. Thanks

Morning! Working on this tree lamp. It came out pretty good, but the perfectionist in me thinks it can be better.

Pla silk. Bambu P1S, door 3in open, top wedged open to vent.

Ive noticed these "crunchy" and sometimes scorched looking inconsistencies near the edges. I have a small list of possibilities and was wondering if there was any advice the group can offer.

1. Temp tower says I should drop nozzle 5c.

2. Is this from "reduce infill retraction?" And it is actually burning the surface as the head moves.

3. Wall thing? The 3mf supplied to me is classic.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I hope you're well!

Here is my printer specs for reference:

- Ender 3 with an orbiter DD
- Revo voron with the 0.4 HF nozzle
- Klipper firmware
- Trying to print in Masterprint ABS with 250° C, PLA prints fine (ABS also works fine with the standard 0.4 revo nozzle)
- Printing with 2500 mm/s² accel and 275 mm/s speed
- Bed temp is 90° C
- Retraction length is 0.5 mm
- I am using Orca Slicer

I did all the following calibrations and they seem correct to me:
- Temperature calibration
- Max flowrate
- Adaptive Pressure advance (also calibrated after changing the flow ratio)
- Flow ratio (also calibrated after changing the pressure advance)

Here are my cooling and PA config:

*OBS: all this issues started when I changed to the High Flow nozzle, so its probably an calibration issue, but I am not sure what needs to be calibrated

I am trying to print a benchy, however the back part of the hull is having distorted proportions, like the mid part is curling inwards, and the edges are really rough.

I am also having problems with the front of the hull, as it seem a little flat in between the holes:

My first guess was messing with the Pressure Advance, but changing this didn't seem to improve the quality of the edges.

I also tried changing the cooling config (this was a suggestion from Gemini, as I was already without ideas).

For reference, when printing a brigding test, the same behaviour occurs:

Does anyone knows how can I fix this issues?

For last, I am sorry if my descriptions are not very clear, english is not my first language, but I tried my best :)

Some additional context: this line appears on all outer walls of the frame. It occurs exactly at the height where the solid backplate transitions into the raised edges. In Onshape, I designed this by first creating a solid block and then cutting out a negative space (cavity) so Mario fits inside.

I am printing with a prusa mk4 and for the last few prints this is happening. i used the standard prusa pla profile at 215C and the prusa slicer.

does someone know what is wrong here?

So my sister in law asked me to print this mask in time for Halloween. I have the filament so say yes but printing even the smallest part still has bubbles forming. I used 2 new filaments and then resorted to using the white in my ams ams with heater. All 3 have bubbles in the print!

Alright so currently I'm trying to print a butterfly comb knife and this is the last one but this keeps happening, the small piece you see in the corner was originally supposed to be next with the other piece, Ive printed this for two times now with the other one getting all the small pieces and throwing them around, yesterday I had the other side of the plate damaged due to printing plate silk for the first time so I switched it to the other side and the first two prints were actually fine on this side until today this kept happening, my nozzle temp is on 200 and the bed is on 60 the settings I changed were

Layer height and initial layer height which was in 0.12 and 0.23 mm, I also changed seam by override filament scary seam setting and scarf seam type to contour and I noticed arc fitting was turned off which I don't remember I did but I changed sparse infill density to 7 infill pattern to group wall loops to 3 and that's basically it, is that because of the other side of the plate that happened or is this from the nozzle being worn or broken? The filament is basic pla if I forgot to mention and I'm very new to 3d printing Edit:I didn't change anything on the nozzle speed and I sliced it in quality mode

Hey all! Trying to figure out what is the cause of these gaps that appear when I turn on ironing, the layer bellow is looking good, however when I get it to iron a layer it creates these gaps as if it was dragging molten pla around. Here are the following notes:

- currently have it set to iron at 90 degrees orientation hiwever the holes seem to follow the orientation of the surface pathing prior to ironing commencing.
- have run an iron calibration test and this issue appeared on everything beneath 25% in that test however this is currently running at 28% and is creating alot of lines.
- have tested ironing width at both 0.1 and 0.15mm, no change jn this issue.
- using a 0.4mm nozzle with elegoo PLA at 215C thats been dried in a sovol filament dryer.

P.S. Dont mind the symbol on the object, thats just where I pause it

Tried to print a watercolor pan, default settings on flashprint 5, on a Flashforge adventurer 3. .4 nozzle, black pla

I am having issues with my Flashforge AD5M. It was working perfectly fine before until I had one bad print a month ago. Now I keep having issues starting I believe with the second layer but the first layer sometimes looks off as well. I let this continue past the first infil layer and it printed that portion fine but then when it comes to the top layers and first layers it gets weird. This also only seems to happen on larger pieces but that may just because it has more time to mess up.

Prusaslicer
AD5M
PLA
210 0.4 Nozzle
50-70 BedTemp
0.3 layer height
250mm/s interior
50mm/s exterior
Infil pattern gyroid

Bought an A1 mini for d&d miniatures and swapped from the .4 nozzle to a .2 and have been getting poor results since. This is my .2 benchy I'd greatly appreciate any help tips or advice.

Ender 3d pro. Brand new to this. Got bed level I believe. Print shifted a couple times due to shitty magnetic mat. Orca slicer. It could keep a smooth hot path going but the way orca sliced the tool path it will pick up and move elsewhere when it REALLY DOESNT NEED TO!! I am moderate at CNC programming. 3d is a different beast. I understand most of the settings in orca. I don’t know what t set them to for this printer. Nozzle stopped up 90% through the print hence the fuzzy stuff. Last pic is with it cleaned off. Disregarding where the mat shifted is my leveling good? Main thing is how to stop these hairs as they make the first couple layers pure hell to get just right and go forbid there’s a circle. That’s what I use to calibrate and seem to have it set….its the dang hairs! Does anyone have setting that work flawlessly for them? Like super detailed settings I can start from?

Hi looking for some opinions and suggestions on fine tooning this print profile.

I have been print these modular road pieces for my son. I'm using a P2S with .4 nozzle, Bambu Slicer and PLA Matte Bambu filament.

Using the designers profile but change to .20 high quality, 7 top shell layers and 35mm/s top layer speed. I also ran the Bambu Slicer flow calibration for the filament.This photo is the best result I have gotten. I see some later gapping still in the red circle I would like to eliminate.

I should also not, its the exact same orientation as the designers file. https://makerworld.com/models/1734763?appSharePlatform=copy

When it went.to.the smaller part it startes that.

Bambu lab A1 Combo

Noozle 0.8

External wall 1mm

170mm height

Spiral vase on

Brim on

Temperature 245 C

Minimun speed 10mm

Fan 30%-50% (30s-12s)

Layer h 0.32

Filament PETG Masterprint

Plate PEI golden (standard)

Plate temp 80 C

Recently I came across this problem. when I use TPU it's my first time using this type of filament. I don't know what is causing this.

Setting used

Bambulab studio

Bambulab a1

Layer height 0.16

Temp 215

Retraction length 0.8

Of course I changed to TPU profile

Hi there! Doing cornering (junction deviation) test and it’s hard for me to understand it. What can I do?

Photos 4&5 are same item, back light and front light

Ender 3 neo modded to dual gear direct drive with Bimetal heatbreak and steel nozzle (w coating). Marlin2, JD stock 0.008, PA 0.1. Speed max 500 accel 2000 printing 2500 per axis and 1500 when retraction. Volumetric flow is 19.5, Polymaker petg @ 255°. With these specs max speed is 213.3(3)mm/s when printing. And I have weird artifacts that I cannot understand…
I did:
Temp test (255)
Max flowrate (19.5)
Pressure advance (0.1)
Flow ratio (0.955)
Retraction (1.4)
Cornering < here 😵‍💫

I’m reading calibration guide again and again but I cannot understand what I need to see, as usual photos on internet are different.

0.4 nozzle, 0.42 width, 0.2 height.

Custom marlin I did myself based on presets and specs.

One piece is snapped off during print, stringy filament left in its wake, and it looks like some layers are shifting.

So my table definitely wobbles some moments during the 3d print. I did some calibration testing prior to this which had me figure out optimal temperatures, speeds, and pressure advance settings. This is my first real print after the fact. Looking for any advice, aside from getting a new table (working on that)

Help needed!
We are printing these already for a long time on our printers.

They are all showing this problem, what could cause it?
They have a fat big part on their head, going around.
I assume that it has something to with layer time since it is showing the same pattern.

Bambu Lab P1S
Bambulab PLA Matte
0.4 nozzle
Standard print settings