Bought an A1 mini for d&d miniatures and swapped from the .4 nozzle to a .2 and have been getting poor results since. This is my .2 benchy I'd greatly appreciate any help tips or advice.

I tried printing the Sega logo the other day. No idea what happened but my first instinct is the print exploded somehow. I started it before running some errands and came back to this. There were mangled bits of filament all over the place. The G and A printed fine. What happened here?

Hey all! Trying to figure out what is the cause of these gaps that appear when I turn on ironing, the layer bellow is looking good, however when I get it to iron a layer it creates these gaps as if it was dragging molten pla around. Here are the following notes:

- currently have it set to iron at 90 degrees orientation hiwever the holes seem to follow the orientation of the surface pathing prior to ironing commencing.
- have run an iron calibration test and this issue appeared on everything beneath 25% in that test however this is currently running at 28% and is creating alot of lines.
- have tested ironing width at both 0.1 and 0.15mm, no change jn this issue.
- using a 0.4mm nozzle with elegoo PLA at 215C thats been dried in a sovol filament dryer.

P.S. Dont mind the symbol on the object, thats just where I pause it

I’ve been trying to print some flexible bats keychains for some friends but im struggling to get the wings parts to detach without them breaking

I did the first layer test and it was ok,is there any config on orca slicer to improve them not being glued together

My printer is a ender 3 V1 and im using orca slicer

Looking for advice printing Overture black ASA on my Snapmaker U1. On a benchy, the front hull starts to warp. I do not have bed adhesion issues though. It sticks really well to the clean smooth pei sheet with no glue.

Relevant info :
Filament is new and has been dried
Bed temp 100c
Chamber temp gets to 50-55c
Nozzle 260-275c
Cooling none to 80% fan
Printer is enclosed

I can’t seem to find the sweet spot for this filament. If I print it with no cooling like everyone seems to suggest, I get bad warping and overhangs. If I leave cooling on just for overhangs, layer adhesion is noticeably worse and the warping is better but not gone. If I run the generic preset with cooling always on, the print is super clean but has terrible layer adhesion.

As the title mentions, my Bambi Labs X2D seems to randomly stop extruding towards the end of long prints (7/8 Hours, 12/13 Hours). Notable characteristics…

- The print is FLAWLESS up until it fails.
- The head still moves as if it is printing but nothing is extruding.
- The extruder is not audibly clicking while moving / “printing”.
- Once I cancel the print I can manually extract via the screen after about a minute. (Is it cooling off of a computer safety stop?) (This clears up a clog.)
- There is still filament available and into the head.
- If I reset the print it immediately extrudes flawlessly.

A few notes of my settings.

- Bambu Labs X2D
- Bambu Studio Slicer
- Fiberon PA6-CF
- 100C Bed Temp
- 60C Chamber Temp
- 290C Nozzle Temp
- 15 mm/s initial and infill. 40 mm/s walls/infill. 10 mm/s overhangs.
- Picture of Extruder Settings (I do not believe I have changed any of these for .6M Nozzle)
- Filament is being pulled directly through an AMS HT (aux tube) at 85C with minimal resistance after I printed the internal stand. (Also stopped printed at roughly 80-90%).
- Filament is dried at 95C for 48 hours.
- Utilizing .6M Tungsten Nozzle
- A inline fan is ducting exhaust air out the window.
- The print becomes spaghetti if I change chamber temperatures, and bed temperature.

The only things that come to mind are a built in temperature over load? I am new to this 3D printing but heat creep? This is becoming more and more frustrating as this filament is not cheap.

Any input will be appreciated.

Hi everyone, I hope you're well!

Here is my printer specs for reference:

- Ender 3 with an orbiter DD
- Revo voron with the 0.4 HF nozzle
- Klipper firmware
- Trying to print in Masterprint ABS with 250° C, PLA prints fine (ABS also works fine with the standard 0.4 revo nozzle)
- Printing with 2500 mm/s² accel and 275 mm/s speed
- Bed temp is 90° C
- Retraction length is 0.5 mm
- I am using Orca Slicer

I did all the following calibrations and they seem correct to me:
- Temperature calibration
- Max flowrate
- Adaptive Pressure advance (also calibrated after changing the flow ratio)
- Flow ratio (also calibrated after changing the pressure advance)

Here are my cooling and PA config:

*OBS: all this issues started when I changed to the High Flow nozzle, so its probably an calibration issue, but I am not sure what needs to be calibrated

I am trying to print a benchy, however the back part of the hull is having distorted proportions, like the mid part is curling inwards, and the edges are really rough.

I am also having problems with the front of the hull, as it seem a little flat in between the holes:

My first guess was messing with the Pressure Advance, but changing this didn't seem to improve the quality of the edges.

I also tried changing the cooling config (this was a suggestion from Gemini, as I was already without ideas).

For reference, when printing a brigding test, the same behaviour occurs:

Does anyone knows how can I fix this issues?

For last, I am sorry if my descriptions are not very clear, english is not my first language, but I tried my best :)

Some additional context: this line appears on all outer walls of the frame. It occurs exactly at the height where the solid backplate transitions into the raised edges. In Onshape, I designed this by first creating a solid block and then cutting out a negative space (cavity) so Mario fits inside.

I am printing with a prusa mk4 and for the last few prints this is happening. i used the standard prusa pla profile at 215C and the prusa slicer.

does someone know what is wrong here?

Tried to print a watercolor pan, default settings on flashprint 5, on a Flashforge adventurer 3. .4 nozzle, black pla

I am having issues with my Flashforge AD5M. It was working perfectly fine before until I had one bad print a month ago. Now I keep having issues starting I believe with the second layer but the first layer sometimes looks off as well. I let this continue past the first infil layer and it printed that portion fine but then when it comes to the top layers and first layers it gets weird. This also only seems to happen on larger pieces but that may just because it has more time to mess up.

Prusaslicer
AD5M
PLA
210 0.4 Nozzle
50-70 BedTemp
0.3 layer height
250mm/s interior
50mm/s exterior
Infil pattern gyroid

Ender 3d pro. Brand new to this. Got bed level I believe. Print shifted a couple times due to shitty magnetic mat. Orca slicer. It could keep a smooth hot path going but the way orca sliced the tool path it will pick up and move elsewhere when it REALLY DOESNT NEED TO!! I am moderate at CNC programming. 3d is a different beast. I understand most of the settings in orca. I don’t know what t set them to for this printer. Nozzle stopped up 90% through the print hence the fuzzy stuff. Last pic is with it cleaned off. Disregarding where the mat shifted is my leveling good? Main thing is how to stop these hairs as they make the first couple layers pure hell to get just right and go forbid there’s a circle. That’s what I use to calibrate and seem to have it set….its the dang hairs! Does anyone have setting that work flawlessly for them? Like super detailed settings I can start from?

Hi looking for some opinions and suggestions on fine tooning this print profile.

I have been print these modular road pieces for my son. I'm using a P2S with .4 nozzle, Bambu Slicer and PLA Matte Bambu filament.

Using the designers profile but change to .20 high quality, 7 top shell layers and 35mm/s top layer speed. I also ran the Bambu Slicer flow calibration for the filament.This photo is the best result I have gotten. I see some later gapping still in the red circle I would like to eliminate.

I should also not, its the exact same orientation as the designers file. https://makerworld.com/models/1734763?appSharePlatform=copy

Printer: Anycubic Kobra S1 Slicer: Anycubic Next Filament: Anycubic PLA+ Temps: 223° (nozzle) /65° (bed) Speed: 160 mm/s Retraction: 0.8 mm

Regarding the left boat and cube respectively, the right ones were done on my old Kobra 2.

I sliced everything printed on the S1 with the Next Slicer and the firmware was updated to current before the first print.

I've gotten a refurb unit as a deal and every print i try turns out like this... It shipped missing one rubber feet (i printed a replacement out of 100% infill TPU on the Kobra 2, machine now stands firm and steady) and two of the screws that hold the back of the printhead cover in place (took two of the back housing, same length and replaced those with spares I had lying around)

Sofar I've tried: * checking the printhead, rods or bed for being wobbly (right side of things bed has a little play, but I've read on the S1 sub that that seems to be normally the case) * tightening every screw i could find and reach * tightening/loosening the extruder tensioning screw * tensioning the belts * different printer profiles (stock/community) * different print speeds * different filaments * putting the machine from a countertop to the damn floor

Nothing so far seems to impact those artifacts whatsoever 😭

I have recalibrated my bed to be perfect and that was my only idea. I cant find anything on google and I have tried to print this 2 times and the lines are on every one and end up turning to spaghetti at the end. Help!!

Elegoo Neptune 4 base model

Elegoo slicer based on orca

Elegoo black PLA

What can I take from this I assume the bed is not level. Especially in the back right corner. Should I retram it?

I always get an error code for automatic bed leveling so I don’t use it. I have been through all the Bambu troubleshooting but can’t fix it.