As the title mentions, my Bambi Labs X2D seems to randomly stop extruding towards the end of long prints (7/8 Hours, 12/13 Hours). Notable characteristics…

- The print is FLAWLESS up until it fails.
- The head still moves as if it is printing but nothing is extruding.
- The extruder is not audibly clicking while moving / “printing”.
- Once I cancel the print I can manually extract via the screen after about a minute. (Is it cooling off of a computer safety stop?) (This clears up a clog.)
- There is still filament available and into the head.
- If I reset the print it immediately extrudes flawlessly.

A few notes of my settings.

- Bambu Labs X2D
- Bambu Studio Slicer
- Fiberon PA6-CF
- 100C Bed Temp
- 60C Chamber Temp
- 290C Nozzle Temp
- 15 mm/s initial and infill. 40 mm/s walls/infill. 10 mm/s overhangs.
- Picture of Extruder Settings (I do not believe I have changed any of these for .6M Nozzle)
- Filament is being pulled directly through an AMS HT (aux tube) at 85C with minimal resistance after I printed the internal stand. (Also stopped printed at roughly 80-90%).
- Filament is dried at 95C for 48 hours.
- Utilizing .6M Tungsten Nozzle
- A inline fan is ducting exhaust air out the window.
- The print becomes spaghetti if I change chamber temperatures, and bed temperature.

The only things that come to mind are a built in temperature over load? I am new to this 3D printing but heat creep? This is becoming more and more frustrating as this filament is not cheap.

Any input will be appreciated.

I'm fairly new to this. I started a large print ( 26 hours) on my Elegoo neptune 3. I watched for a bit then went to bed and woke up to this masterpiece. I was printing at 210 degrees, with a bed set to 65 degrees on normal speed. I'm curious as to what went wrong? I used Elegoocira to slice and octaprint to print it

Thanks

I tried printing the Sega logo the other day. No idea what happened but my first instinct is the print exploded somehow. I started it before running some errands and came back to this. There were mangled bits of filament all over the place. The G and A printed fine. What happened here?

EDIT: nevermind i tried a third time facing another direction on the plate and it worked fine

Printing Polymaker ASA on a Prusa Core One+, prusa slicer, Prusament ASA filament Preset (265C nozzle, 110C bed, 50C chamber). These settings worked fine for other parts, also with overhangs, printed at the same time.

I noticed while printing that the outermost perimeter prints in a loop around the part in such a way that on the messed up side the overhang is printed first, while on the good side the inner edge is printed first and then it does the overhang. I tried changing the orientation of the part on the bed to no avail.

From z axis issues to print quality, all I've done is fight my Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus. All calibration come back as expected, only change is flow from 1 to .99. Any recommendations on fixing these print lines?

.2mm layer hight

.4 nozzle

Dried Sunlu PLA+

220° extruder, 65 bed

Hey.

I'm hoping someone can help me with a fix of why this just isn't working.

My printer is only for miniatures for TTRPGs.

I own a Bambu A1 mini and the 0.2 nozzle is amazing. The quality is amazing.

However, after 1 singular print, whilst doing a second print, it gets clogged.

Am I missing something basic of cleaning it between 1 singular print?

The clogging gets pretty bad I struggle to fix the hotend and I've actually broken two hotends.

I'm using PLA basic, a flat smooth surface with glue (saw this on bambu forums about fixing 0.2mm clogging).

Any tips or advice would be appreciated.

I am printing with a prusa mk4 and for the last few prints this is happening. i used the standard prusa pla profile at 215C and the prusa slicer.

does someone know what is wrong here?

I recently switched to Orca slicer and need help refining my settings. This is PETG printing at 240C on an 85C bed on my Ender 3 Pro. I did a calibration cube that turned out fine, but have since had issues making adjustments. I've also had stringing issues, but this is the first larger area print I've tried. Let me know what other details you need. Thanks

Morning! Working on this tree lamp. It came out pretty good, but the perfectionist in me thinks it can be better.

Pla silk. Bambu P1S, door 3in open, top wedged open to vent.

Ive noticed these "crunchy" and sometimes scorched looking inconsistencies near the edges. I have a small list of possibilities and was wondering if there was any advice the group can offer.

1. Temp tower says I should drop nozzle 5c.

2. Is this from "reduce infill retraction?" And it is actually burning the surface as the head moves.

3. Wall thing? The 3mf supplied to me is classic.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I hope you're well!

Here is my printer specs for reference:

- Ender 3 with an orbiter DD
- Revo voron with the 0.4 HF nozzle
- Klipper firmware
- Trying to print in Masterprint ABS with 250° C, PLA prints fine (ABS also works fine with the standard 0.4 revo nozzle)
- Printing with 2500 mm/s² accel and 275 mm/s speed
- Bed temp is 90° C
- Retraction length is 0.5 mm
- I am using Orca Slicer

I did all the following calibrations and they seem correct to me:
- Temperature calibration
- Max flowrate
- Adaptive Pressure advance (also calibrated after changing the flow ratio)
- Flow ratio (also calibrated after changing the pressure advance)

Here are my cooling and PA config:

*OBS: all this issues started when I changed to the High Flow nozzle, so its probably an calibration issue, but I am not sure what needs to be calibrated

I am trying to print a benchy, however the back part of the hull is having distorted proportions, like the mid part is curling inwards, and the edges are really rough.

I am also having problems with the front of the hull, as it seem a little flat in between the holes:

My first guess was messing with the Pressure Advance, but changing this didn't seem to improve the quality of the edges.

I also tried changing the cooling config (this was a suggestion from Gemini, as I was already without ideas).

For reference, when printing a brigding test, the same behaviour occurs:

Does anyone knows how can I fix this issues?

For last, I am sorry if my descriptions are not very clear, english is not my first language, but I tried my best :)

Some additional context: this line appears on all outer walls of the frame. It occurs exactly at the height where the solid backplate transitions into the raised edges. In Onshape, I designed this by first creating a solid block and then cutting out a negative space (cavity) so Mario fits inside.

Bought an A1 mini for d&d miniatures and swapped from the .4 nozzle to a .2 and have been getting poor results since. This is my .2 benchy I'd greatly appreciate any help tips or advice.

I am having issues with my Flashforge AD5M. It was working perfectly fine before until I had one bad print a month ago. Now I keep having issues starting I believe with the second layer but the first layer sometimes looks off as well. I let this continue past the first infil layer and it printed that portion fine but then when it comes to the top layers and first layers it gets weird. This also only seems to happen on larger pieces but that may just because it has more time to mess up.

Prusaslicer
AD5M
PLA
210 0.4 Nozzle
50-70 BedTemp
0.3 layer height
250mm/s interior
50mm/s exterior
Infil pattern gyroid

Tried to print a watercolor pan, default settings on flashprint 5, on a Flashforge adventurer 3. .4 nozzle, black pla

So my sister in law asked me to print this mask in time for Halloween. I have the filament so say yes but printing even the smallest part still has bubbles forming. I used 2 new filaments and then resorted to using the white in my ams ams with heater. All 3 have bubbles in the print!

Hi looking for some opinions and suggestions on fine tooning this print profile.

I have been print these modular road pieces for my son. I'm using a P2S with .4 nozzle, Bambu Slicer and PLA Matte Bambu filament.

Using the designers profile but change to .20 high quality, 7 top shell layers and 35mm/s top layer speed. I also ran the Bambu Slicer flow calibration for the filament.This photo is the best result I have gotten. I see some later gapping still in the red circle I would like to eliminate.

I should also not, its the exact same orientation as the designers file. https://makerworld.com/models/1734763?appSharePlatform=copy

Alright so currently I'm trying to print a butterfly comb knife and this is the last one but this keeps happening, the small piece you see in the corner was originally supposed to be next with the other piece, Ive printed this for two times now with the other one getting all the small pieces and throwing them around, yesterday I had the other side of the plate damaged due to printing plate silk for the first time so I switched it to the other side and the first two prints were actually fine on this side until today this kept happening, my nozzle temp is on 200 and the bed is on 60 the settings I changed were

Layer height and initial layer height which was in 0.12 and 0.23 mm, I also changed seam by override filament scary seam setting and scarf seam type to contour and I noticed arc fitting was turned off which I don't remember I did but I changed sparse infill density to 7 infill pattern to group wall loops to 3 and that's basically it, is that because of the other side of the plate that happened or is this from the nozzle being worn or broken? The filament is basic pla if I forgot to mention and I'm very new to 3d printing Edit:I didn't change anything on the nozzle speed and I sliced it in quality mode

So i started 3d printing today and i have this little benchy

I figured i will need to lower the Temp a bit and raise retraction but what else could i do?

I have used PETG, from dasfilament, fresh out of the sealed package on an CR-6 SE printer, set on 230 and 75 degrees, at 50mm/s print speed and 25 mm/s retractions speed.

Hey all! Trying to figure out what is the cause of these gaps that appear when I turn on ironing, the layer bellow is looking good, however when I get it to iron a layer it creates these gaps as if it was dragging molten pla around. Here are the following notes:

- currently have it set to iron at 90 degrees orientation hiwever the holes seem to follow the orientation of the surface pathing prior to ironing commencing.
- have run an iron calibration test and this issue appeared on everything beneath 25% in that test however this is currently running at 28% and is creating alot of lines.
- have tested ironing width at both 0.1 and 0.15mm, no change jn this issue.
- using a 0.4mm nozzle with elegoo PLA at 215C thats been dried in a sovol filament dryer.

P.S. Dont mind the symbol on the object, thats just where I pause it