I decided to do a spooky Halloween print that beats the crappy store bought ones. So I decided to make a 16inch Australian Huntsman spider.

When it was black and in two halves it wasn’t scary at all.

One 30 min paint job later and it’s horrifying.

I will put it on the side wall of our front door so you don’t see it until you turn around to leave. Should get some nice ring camera footage.

Probably too expensive, but imagine never having to home, realtime resonances and accuracy feedback, and never losing steps.

So I tried looking up some information regarding how to make PETG more transparent, when printing. I couldn’t find a ton of info. I tried reducing my speed, turning off fans and I got a giant mess. This is the jewel I designed and printed at full speed. I used this as a fit test. I’m happy with the diffused light. But want tips on making clearer crystals and parts out of this transparent PETG?

Haven’t posted in a while because I haven’t really had anything new. Just crunched finishing Prime right before New York comic con. I’ve had the suit printed and halfway test fitted for over a year. But about three weeks before NYCC I decided to rush and finish it.

Luckily, 95% of it was printed in ASA so between being able to vapor smooth half of the parts and the other half being unbelievably easy to sand, I was able to cross through it super fast. Not a single filament I have ever tested Sands as easily and smooth as ASA. Literally one pass of 220 gritt and it’s ready for prime (ha)

The first time I wore, the entire suit was at New York comicon on Saturday. And luckily, seven years of trial and error in hindsight, and seeing how all of my friends and other builders make suits and the failure points of them help me avoid account for any thing that could go wrong.

The entire cod piece and neck is TPU and eventually the abs section will be as well.

Files by Walsh3d

Printed mostly on Bambu lab machines.

Printed mostly in Polymaker filament.

Ein Einkaufswagenchip mit Klammer für Einkaufszettel. Verwendbar in Einkaufswagen mit Schlitz (Euro).

https://makerworld.com/models/3448039?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi! I made a portal gun, it’s still missing cables but I hope you like it!

The model was created by Evarate and is available on thingiverse. I used the V2 version but replaced the arduino with esp32 and added sound effects.

I designed this Apollo themed floating cupholder. I wanted to try and find a way to add a "scorched" look to the outside, but nothing really seemed like a great option, bic lighter did a little something but just wiped right away, so I went ahead and started painting with acrylic instead. Still have some fun details to add but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, not having a ton of experience in hand painting models! What do you guys think? I think this might force me to buy and learn how to use an airbrush if anybody has suggestions/tips?

Hi everyone!

I wanted to share a little project I’ve been putting my heart into recently.

Turning a house or car key seems like such a tiny everyday thing, but if you deal with arthritis, hand pain, or weak grip, it can honestly ruin your day.

I wanted to build something super simple that anyone can just pick up and use right away, with zero setup. No tiny screws to tighten, no measuring keys beforehand, and no complicated adjustments.

The idea behind it: Inside the knob, I placed a bed of soft, flexible TPU pins. When you push it against a key, the pins simply bend and hug whatever shape the key has, gripping it tight.

The outside is nice and rounded, shaped so you can just press it with the palm of your hand and turn without having to pinch or hurt your fingers. You can just keep it by the front door or in a pocket and use it on pretty much any key.

For printing:

• The outer handle prints in standard PLA or PETG.
• The inner cushion is flexible TPU (I used 95A).
• The two parts just press together cleanly, no glue or extra hardware needed.

The project is 100% free and open for everyone on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3440853-omnigrip-universal-flexi-key-turner-fullturn#profileId-3923794

If you know someone who might find this useful, or if you end up printing one, I’d genuinely love to know how it feels in hand and how it works for you!

Updates every 30 minutes based on the average price in your area. Less than $10 in parts. I will share the full project when I'm done. Just working out a few bugs and modifying the case a little bit to make it easier to print and assemble.

Okay, guys, remember that post I made a while back about my dumb joke project—the cat butt fridge magnet with glow-in-the-dark balls? I thought it was just a one-time chuckle for the internet.

Boy, was I wrong. That blew up, and my little joke turned into an absolute monster.

Fast forward to today, and I am officially drowning in orders. I now have to print over 200 of these damn magnets! Local vet clinics reached out (yes, actual veterinarians want these on their breakroom fridges), crazy cat people came out of the woodwork, and my workshop has basically turned into an assembly line for feline rear ends. 😆 Damn I had to buy another printer to follow the demands 🚀

And just when I thought it couldn't get any more ridiculous... the dog owners arrived.

Yep, now I’m getting flooded with requests for dog butts too. And to top it all off? Someone actually commissioned custom drawer knobs shaped like animal butts—complete with the glow-in-the-dark feature, naturally. 😆 and this is not going to end there... people asked me about many different butts with glowing ding-dongs. What the hell is going on haha

If you told me last month that I'd be making a living wage off mass-producing glowing pet asses, I would’ve laughed you out of the room. Reddit, what have you done to my life?

Send filament. Send help... 😵

My buddy buys and sells used industrial machines and it came in a auction lot. It's outside of his expertise so hes currently storing it in my shop and wants me to figure out if it works. Is it worth anything? Or just an old relic.

Edit: it's available in los Angeles area.

Can see each individual line it laid down. Thought it was pretty cool. The second picture is the bottom side. it was printed on textured pei. I included a regular picture of it for reference.

Hi! I have a friend who is on the autism spectrum and she carries around a golf pencil. She asked me if I could 3d print her one so that if she drops it, it doesn’t break off the point and mess it up from the way that she likes it. I’m looking on Bambu Handy, and I can’t find a model of one, and I can’t afford Rhino or another modeling program right now. Would anyone be willing to share a model with me of a golf pencil? Or make one for me? I am able to pay $20 for it. TIA!

Hi everyone,

The title really says it best, you can see in the image attached, that I've tried and failed this print several times.

It's a hollow box with no base (basically a square vase) and it does have a complex pattern on the external faces of the geometry.

The print appears to fail in the same spot consistently, despite a perfectly manifold and clean model, you can see the parts of the box that look like it's just melded to the side and kept on printing.

I've done everything i can think of at this point and it's gotten me nowhere.

- Increasing cooling to 30-40% for all layers

- increasing line width to 0.8

- printing extremely slow

I'm not sure what else to do at this point.

Printing on an A1 mini , 0.4 nozzle, using petg rapid from elegoo.

Hi Folks,

I have a 3mf file off my printer that I do not have the original STL for. I've tried recovering the 3mf file off the printer to some success, but I can not change the filament as I'm trying to switch from PETG to ASA.

I understand I need to go back to an STL which ive done, but this throws off the size of the model, and now the trouble I have is I do not have any way of measuring the original model size in bambu slicer. The only way to reliably figure out the sizing would be to change the scaling and pray I get it right.

Is there any tricks to getting the file to either go to its original size or am I screwed and need to re-create my part in fusion?

Hi everyone, i use bambu lab a2L combo and a matte generic filament. i had no troubles printing for months, but my last print came up like this. i thought this was a thing to support the structure but i cant seem to get it off. any tips?
(i used the same settings with my previous print with this filament)

I made Bob entirely in zbrush and exported all the parts individually for easy AMS coloring in your slicer. Grab him here if interested: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3448273-the-stitchling-voodoo-dolls-bob-the-blobfish#profileId-3933333