Yesterday I put together some of my 3d printed armor suit designs for long term display at a local cafe :) Way better there than in a storage box in my basement!

We've got a "Maximilian" suit (ca. 1520-1525), currently missing the period accurate leg harness, and a mid-16th century half-suit with some paned slop pants I sewed earlier this year. I plan to release another set in the "Gothic" style of ca. 1480-1490

Hope you like em!

Good morning r/3Dprinting

I'm Joey Olson, a maker based in Phoenix Arizona.

Its been a while since I've been here. I've been buckling down and putting over 60 hours a week into updating, reinforcing and stabilizing Miniskyline! I have polled the community, and the #1 thing that people wanted was accuracy and a desktop app incase something happens to me! I recently won some funding in the Snapmaker Innovation Fund and wanted to share some of the other milestones I've hit!

You can try it now for free with no account and no pay walls at Miniskyline.com

Whats New?

- DESKTOP APP RELEASED! Using Mini Skyline as a tool for your business? Now you don't need to worry about me going away. The desktop app does not rely on my servers. Due to memory pressure being reduced, you can go up to 500sqkm per tile or 25000 sqkm per multi tile project in the desktop app, vs 50, 500 in the web app! Mac/Linux/Windows support!
- Phone UI has been completely revamped.
- Over 300 cities now have LIDAR derived height data. I have chunked through 16tb of publicly usable city lidar scans and pulled out the heights for buildings. Attributions are of course in the app!
- Over 4000 major buildings, bridges, stadiums and raceways have had custom models made to better represent major city silhouettes! Fine details on buildings like the Eiffel Tower or One World Trade Center go a long way in making Miniskyline generations stand out above standard data extruded map models!
- Print as keychain or dog tags!
- Print to puzzle has been redone completely with fit tests and many more options including puzzle trays that can double as frames with text for your finished puzzle.
- Snap together frames with better text support and standalone printing. Print one frame and photograph multiple maps in it with changeable text pieces!
- Average roof deviation in 12 European countries has been reduced to under 1 meter.
- Trees now print based on satellite imagery and survey data. Turning trees on will automatically select tree species, scale and placement! You can of course still update this yourself.
- Trees now can print as a joined canopy layer, with user defined thresholds for when individual trees stop getting modelled.
- Support for adding over 100 GPX routes for dense peaks.
- File sizes have been shaved by up to 98% while generation times have been reduced on average by 46% on areas over 5 square kilometers! Slicers should handle files MUCH better now.
- More fine control over which features get scaled for ease of printing. Have a resin printer, or confident in your printing abilities? Turn off all safeguards and see your model at perfect true scale.
- Road markings have been added with per country laws driving how they appear.
- Most workflows have had their UI's refreshed after studying user habits. People are getting to an export faster and with the settings they want.
- Intelligent setting search. In plain english you can say what you want to do and it will try to show you the best matched setting.
- Print water, trails and roads as separate drop in fins with cross over support where they may meet.
Havent seen Miniskyline Before? Heres what you can already do
- Print any place on Earth, The Moon, Mars, Mercury, Vesta, Ceres, or Venus.
- Print your Minecraft worlds both modded and vanilla.
- Print in dozens of colors per model either by feature or by elevation for easier multi color printing.
- Add texture to any surface to make areas pop. Add waves to water, ripples to sand dunes, rough grit to stone.
- Edit every single aspect of your model in browser. Terrain sculpting and feature manipulation present for all asset types.
- Add trees of over 40 varieties to any area automatically or by hand.
- Use your output for commercial purposes without needing a commercial license (This depends on the model but the majority are permitted).
- Genuinely a lot more. There are hundreds of settings to tweak and play with to make your map yours.

A personal Note:

This site has grown beyond my wildest expectations. I've placed in the Snapmaker Innovation Fund as well as have gotten to work with some of the creators I have looked up to for years. This has been a wild ride and I am incredibly appreciative of the support and love the community has shown for Mini Skyline. This is no where near the end of the road. The list of features, fixes and changes to-do has never been longer.

I greatly appreciate the support and love this project has received. It has been an absolute blast getting to work with so many of you, seeing your builds, helping create gifts for your special someone, fixing your issues. Mini Skyline is only what it is because of community feedback and support. Thank you.

- Joey.

Little project I was working for last week.

Hi everyone! I have a 3d printer (though i dont use it often) and im curious about something

What is this stuff on the screws? I dont know what it is and im curious.

How cool looks ASA filament that has been vapor-smoothed

I've been 3D printing for many years and I've designed lots of models for various uses. The files are kept on a 2TB external hard drive (spin) on my LAN. That drive was knocked off it's shelf and fell about 8 feet onto concrete. When I picked it up, I could hear it rattling. 😭 I sent it to a professional data recovery service $$$ which attempted transplants with donor drives, the works. The platter has micro scratches and nothing was recoverable. I've only ever shared one model on Makerworld, so pulling them down from somewhere online isn't an option.

TLDR: Back up anything that's important to you to the cloud or a secondary device so you don't lose it.

I just finished printing this gambit chest plate and I'm looking for methods to get it all together and looking good. I will be wearing it for a costume

I wanted to mess around with making characters with springs for bodies and converted the adorable Chubby Crocodile from LegoLars into this wobbly boi. Added a little loop so it can be an ornament for my tree this year.

Customer came to me since he had some rare seats in his Alpina that were missing seatrail covers. I decided that trying to achieve an OEM+ look would be the best gameplan.

I scanned the seats and rail, drew up a cover and a logo placard.

Cover got printed in ASA CF, then painted with texture paint.

Printed the logo with a 0.2mm nozzle, then gave it a flood coat of resin.

Cover attaches with magnets so no drilling would be required for mounting.

Customer is happy and I got to try new things, a Win/Win in my book

FDM. This is the first complete prototype, a Zaku for scale (hg)

THIS LOOKS SO GORGEOUS. Cant wait to print more things with that.

Printed with 0.8 nozzle in vase mode.

Model on maker: https://makerworld.com/models/1631903?appSharePlatform=copy

I’ve previously had coffee filter holders taped to the inside of my kitchen cabinets. It worked, but removing them for cleaning meant dealing with the tape again.

This time I designed one with a small French cleat. The rail stays screwed in place, and the holder lifts off for refilling or cleaning, then slides straight back on.

I have made a V3 optimized cable organizer! It is for cables up to 2 meters in length and is compatible with virtually any type of charging cable, such as USB-A/USB-C/Lightning/etc! Bend angles are also taken into account to protect cables from damage. I'm very happy with how it turned out and I hope other people will be able to use it as well! I uploaded the model for free on makerworld.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3461731-cable-organizer-v3-up-to-2-meter-cables-usb-etc#profileId-3950170

Hi, I have this door opener remote, I have no knowledge of 3D printing, I paid someone to print this for me too.

Can you please help me recommend what material, what printer settings and what orientation should this be printed in next time? Last time it was printed laying down on its back as you see from the lines of delamination. Also it was sitting in a hot car for months on end.

It consists of two halves that snap together with 8 small teeths that are only suitable to 2-3 taking apart for battery replacement as well.

I have no idea what settings and material it was before. The insides are hollow to accommodate a circuit board, buttons and a battery, the material itself isn't too thick either, only a few mm-s, probably 100% infill

I wouldn't mind it being bigger either if that meant more structural strength and resistance to delamination.

I'll try to find the stl-s and update it here, but I don't have it now.

A local high school hired me to make a prop for their productions of The Little Mermaid. My first prop!

Roughly 1h difference, in favor of Tree supports. Tree are also less wasteful. However, I have had issues with tree supports delaminating/falling over with models this tall. I can't print the model upright because it's taller than my max build volume (otherwise I would), and I can't cut it because the seam would ruin the detail on the front. The model is at 45 degrees to allow maximum plate contact with a chamfered edge (any other angle would have a single line as contact) Normally I would just send it but I'd rather not waste a day of printing if it falls over at the end. So, with all other settings equal, which would you choose?

I just finished 2 VFA tests with Elegoo CC2! 40-250mms
-A) CC2 with stock rubber feet -> on a 20kg paver tile -> on a rubber mat
-B) CC2 without rubber feet -> directly on a 20kg paver tile -> on a rubber mat

and it's really hard to tell a difference, and even harder to photograph the difference between the result. The printer is on a study table and It's doesn't have filament rolls attached on its side and I ran Input Shaping before tests.

This shows two tests, left is A, right is B. Within a test, speeds increase left to right.
B test had a slight extrusion issue at 230mm/s so consider it, or not for this purpose.

Just by looking at them IRL - 50 and 60 are unusable in either case. A seems so dampen lower speeds better 60-100 and B seems to look cleaner at higher speeds above 160 .

I find this quite interesting, one thing that is missing is a noise test. So I want to do further testing with sound recording,
-do you have any tips or tests I could try?
-are these results expected?
-is it worth it?

How do you get the motors and power supply? I have taken apart some electronics and kept the motor and wiring but I am looking for some good motors and power supply that i can buy. I don't feel comfortable enough to calculate ohms law or anything like that. Any advice helps. Thank you!