Anything bad?

Or for that matter, what about a v6 Diamondback? I have both already and I'm wanting to run some PPS-GF.

So a buddy of mine's father was diagnosed with stage 4 cancer and has generously gifted me his AnkerMake M5C and a TON of PLA and PLA+ filament.

I run an Etsy shop selling aquatic plants and figured I could try printing some caves, driftwood pieces, etc but when looking up the printer I got it doesn't seem like people are a fan of the product. I'm going to keep it and do my best to learn and use it, but can someone explain the key differences between what I received and something like a bambu lab A1? I'm concerned the learning curve will be much steeper with what I have.

Someone local on FB marketplace has this PS1 for a good price What is everyone's opinion on what the fix is and is it worth grabbing? Currently have an Ender 3 V3 SE and looking to upgrade

Are these shrink lines? What settings should I be looking at adjusting to try to get rid of these lines?

I just finished printing this gambit chest plate and I'm looking for methods to get it all together and looking good. I will be wearing it for a costume

I’ve released a free 3D-printable model of a finger-spun top called “3DP TOP”!

https://makerworld.com/@USHIWORK

If so how would I go about fixing this

I have a tina2s 3d printer, brand name is weedo but its one of the dropshipped type ones that are cheap and sold under a couple different names. Im having this problem where over time the stepper motor will start clicking (like it cant push the filement through properly) and the filament will start coming out of the nozzle less and less until i cant print anything. I had this problem around june/july this year and i discovered the part of the tubing that went into the hotend seemed to melt and stick/fuse to the inside of the hotend (which also was why the filement couldnt go through properly) luckily all i had to do was buy a replacement hotend which was like $15 and some more of the tubing. But now, only three or so months after replacing im having the exact same problem! I dont get how the tube is melting since i bought the kind creality sells on amazon that is said to resist temperatures up to 260c (for reference i operate my printer to go to 240 when loading new filament and 200 while actively printing.) frankly a new hotend is really cheap and if itll last a few months i dont mind just buying a new one until i can actually save for a better printer, but if theres some way i can prevent this from happening, like if anyone owns the same printer and found a solution or if youve had a similar problem on a different printer, please share your method on how to fix this, thanks!

I did a test print in PLA of the file and it came out great. Every print I do in PA66-CF comes out messy. The worst part is the bottom. It's a stringy mess. Otherwise, most of it is good. This keeps happening with this one particular print, not all. The temp settings are fine. I also tried speeding the printing up, but no change. Printer is an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2. Anyone have any suggestions?

when i try to print something sometime it stops printing mid print, like, it keeps trying to print but filament is no longer coming out even though theres stil filement, what are some good setting (using cura btw) to fix this, i think its getting clogged mid print and i dont know how to solve cause when i try something it just doesnt work, open to suggestions

My family have a tradition of hanging small gifts on our Christmas tree and any visitor gets to take one at random. As we've all got older our visitors are now all adults and the gifts are almost exclusively practical or an activity. Last year gifts included AA batteries, mini first aid kit (paracetamol, bandaids etc), hair scrunchies, carabiners, mini off brand Lego kits, etc.. This year I wanted to print some gifts but they need to be relatively generic. So far I'm thinking of a screw size sorter and a cord organiser but then I'm stuck!

I don't want models, toys without an activity element, but any ideas would be appreciated!

You may not understand this directly from the video but this is a computer science project which allows you to simulate logic gates by inputting its truth table into the switches on the side
e.g.
OR: 0111
XOR: 0110
AND: 0001
etc
so after you input the logic gates, you use the push buttons as inputs “A” and “B” shown as the blue LEDs and the output as green
i had also created a startup animation with the LEDs but that was after recording this

the usb c is only for constant power input not charging btw

i 3D modeled and printed this myself on my K1C with white PLA and i have to say it looks very clean with the hex pattern
i had originally made the lid a snap connect bet the pins in the back broke off so i compromised and used some tape

i made this about a year ago but lowk forgot about it

Its done (enough) and ive now published the model. Feel free to modify it as you see fit. would love to see it done for other countries.

I am extemely inexperienced when it comes to coding. i did use AI for a good majority of the software. it runs well for me and i tested on multiple pc's without issues. If you do encounter any please let me know, ill try to maintain it as best as i can. I more so just wanted to share it as a groundwork for other people to work from.

Here is the link to the project on makerworld - https://makerworld.com/en/models/3460335-desktop-gas-station-price-sign

Hope it doesn't make you too depressed.. And if it does you can set the prices manually to anything you'd like and daydream about the better times lol.

So I have two Bambu printers and A1 and a P1S. Both of them are having the same issue where they will start printing, but then partway through the print job, the screen will lock up and not respond, but the printer finishes the job.

I’ve troubleshot by switching channels on my Wi-Fi, ensuring that my 2 GHz Wi-Fi is set properly, I’ve turned off the Wi-Fi on both of them and they have stayed on.

Has anyone else experienced this issue and have a solution?

I have tried via several methods to change my z offset on my Ender 5 plus. I've even tried downloading pronterface and adjusting it there, literally no matter what I do the nozzle seems to be about .2 to around .5mm off the bed. The only way I can work with the Z offset is to run M420 S1 which i guess disables it from stopping from going lower? I am using a CR touch with firmware version 1.70.3 BL

I have an ender 3v2 that i've had tons of successful prints with but wanted to try out the ender 5 plus. Any help would be appreciated. I will share any screenshots or info.

I paid on the 14th for the kickstarter, and I thought we would get the download link on the 16th, but nothing yet?

Okay all.

I am looking at getting into 3d printing with the sales on printers this holiday season. My main thing I want to get into is printing petg cologne bottle caps for my collection. The hard part is finding the objects, resizing/adding Boolean shapes in blender/etc., and then adjusting in slicer.

Is there any repository somewhere that has perfume/cologne/fragrance bottle caps already designed? It is just a lot of free time, that I don't have a ton of, to make the individual files.

Thanks

A local high school hired me to make a prop for their productions of The Little Mermaid. My first prop!

I'm in Brisbane, Australia and have never managed to get below 10% on my AMS2 and AliExpress humidity fauge

Hi all,

Am wanting to start 3D printing as a side hustle and for that I am looking for Corporate Gifting ideas.

Please share your ideas.

Even better would be, if you were been given gifts by your employer or a supplier or someone, what you prefer to get as a 3D printed gift that you would genuinely use even if it had that company logo on it?

Industry or gift type does not matter. Just what would you like to get as a usable gift?

does anyone knows a better way to build a 3d printer for cheap. im thinking of reusing the existing working 3d printer (SUNLU T3) for parts to make one with enclosure or is it just better to buy new components.