Got them all installed and they look amazing! Doing the side mirrors next once my caps get in the mail!

installed new wheels and bought oem new sensors from ebay, here’s the listing with correct part number and i can’t get rid of this tpms light. When i do reset procedure it sometimes stops at 49% and last time i tried it wouldn’t go over 0%. I had discount tire scan each sensor and they said they’re all giving a reading out which means they’re not faulty. Do they need to be coded to the car or something?

Hello, I recently purchased a 2012 328i for 8k at 82k , the only thing is that it has some sun burn on the roof and hood. Pros it has the timing chain updated, original 2 window stickers and oil pan ( I paid 2600). Was this a good buy or did I over pay. This isn’t a brag if it comes off that way this is my first bmw.

I have aftermarket Spyder headlights. Recently started getting this malfunction message and one of the LEDs is out. I'm having a hard time thinking it's the headlight itself considering it works whenever I turn the switch to parking lamps or full headlights. It only doesn't work when I leave in the off or auto position. Any ideas?

N20, sometimes i get rough idle and the car stalls

Hi all,

I bought a 2016 320i from Arnold Clark on finance just under a month ago and have done about 600 miles. It has 65k miles and has been serviced every 6-7k. I wanted something decent and I've always liked the idea of owning a BMW.

I like the car and could see myself keeping it long term, but I've found a few problems.

Coolant: About 9 days in, I checked both coolant tanks out of curiosity and they were very low. I got no dash warning. Arnold Clark sent the AA out, who pressure tested it, topped it up and confirmed it was below min. The car then went to Arnold Clark's BMW workshop, who couldn't find a leak, pressure tested it and said it was safe to drive. About a week later, I went to start it and got the coolant low / top up chime before the engine had even started. I switched off straight away and it's been parked outside my house since. Two attempts at diagnosis, nothing found.

Other issues:

Suspension problems, starting to split at front.

Broken handbrake cable clip, so the cable rubs on the prop shaft and makes a nasty metal scraping noise

Heavy fuel use: about 55 miles from £25 of petrol, if that.

I've logged the coolant issue with the finance company.

On cold start, and switching gears when cold, it sounds like a weird metal or air like noise when switching - disappears when warm. Can also be heard when dropping from 3rd to 2nd and auto rev matching i can hear the noise.

I'm trying to work out whether to push for repairs under warranty or reject the car. Rejecting is a big hassle, and I can't easily get another car on finance. Being without the car is also affecting me seeing my daughter. I don't want to get stung either.

Has anyone had a similar coolant loss on a B48 with no visible leak? What would you do in my position? Happy to give more details

I have a 2017 330i. After I turn off and park my car and get out, the alarm will sound if the passenger remains in the car. It usually starts going off after 1 minute. Usually, this happens when I put my dog in the car for a minute while I run into a store(not when it's hot or for more than 10 minutes).

Have you guys experienced this? And if so, have you figured out a way to disable it?

Can I run 225/45/r18 all around has anyone done that setup before? F30 xdrive front are 8j and rear 8.5j. Need run square setup nonsense. Or what other meaty setup I can do. Front are 225/40/r18 rear 225/45/r18
Thanks.

hi folks --

relatively new f31 owner (2017 330i) when i flip it into sport mode and use the paddle shifters, i've noticed that I get a super strong sulfur smell in the cabin. I thought it resolved itself, but just did a bit of a spirited drive on the canyon roads for the first time in a month or so and it's back and stronger than ever. I had to roll the windows down. I'm not seeing any codes for the catalytic converter, so can't confidently say its the cat. I did bring it to BMW just after purchase, but they couldn't repro it. Can i bring it to them and ask for someone to drive along with me or something? Or are there specific codes I should look for (i have an obd scanner and bimmerlink/code apps) Im in California, so if it is the cats it should be covered under the SULEV policy.

Curious if anyone else has dealt with the smell?

I’m currently in the market for a cold air intake and have 2 options I’m looking at: CTS or mst i have a 2018 bme 330i f30 so I want to know what other 330i owners are using on their car. I know there is the bms cold air intake, and it just replaces the oem filter. Or do i go the chinese route and order one for alibaba or ebay?

Hey boys I’m in need of some help.

This is my 340i I purchased a few months ago. It has 102,000 miles. I have a fault code that just won’t go away. When I purchased the vehicle these mods were installed on the car. Previous owner removed the tune to transfer it to his other vehicle. I re-tuned it a few days later.

My mod list:
Catless downpipe
Cold air intake
Bootmod3 stage 2 91 octane OTS

This is the code:
118401
Mixture control: Mixture too lean, large deviation

I did some research and the purge valves are known to throw this code. I replaced it myself and nothing changed. Check engine light stayed.

I smoke tested it also and there are no air leaks.

I figured it was best to take it to my local euro shop. I took it to them and they said it could be a hand full of things. Long story short they replaced all the injectors, spark plugs and fuel rails. After all the work was done it still had the same code and check engine light. The injectors did need replacing and the same with the fuel rails and plugs. By the end of the week they could not figure it out. There convinced it has something to do with the tune.

I reached out to bootmod and they asked me to put the stock intake system back on the car. They say that their maps are based off of the original intake and not aftermarket. Thought that was a little strange knowing plenty of people run after market cold air intakes and don’t have these issues…

I put it back and tried it. The car drove great. No stutters or hiccups. I deleted the codes and then ran them again to see if they were active in the system. Nothing came up. I couldn’t believe it.

But the next day on the way to work I noticed it started to stutter again and the problem slowly came back. Now the check engine light is on with the exact same problem.

If anyone has any guesses or ideas feel free to reach out. Thanks!

When you switched to M sport bumpers, will your insurance cover those M sport bumpers if you get into an accident? Just wondering if any of you reports any exterior mods for the insurance to cover.

Hey guys!
I’m going to look at a 2012 BMW 328i F30 2.0L with 52,000 miles and a rebuilt title. From a quick search online with the VIN it looks to be front-end damage. The current owner says it was properly repaired from a shop.

Is there anything specific I should look out for on this year of car? New to BMW and the 328i, Thanks in advance!

I have a 2018 F31 320i xdrive. I’ve been thinking about putting 12mm front and 15mm rear wheel spacers. I’ve read mixed reviews online and also people saying it might affect the xdrive system.
Anybody have direct experience with this and any pointers?

Hey so ill keep it quick

I'm about to pull the trigger on some coilovers, adjustable end links, m3 bump stops, etc for my 2017 340i F30.

In New Zealand, its pretty hard to find good looking wheels that are also semi forged or flow formed in the 19 inch sizes i want and so im also considering going 18s, however im conflicted as to whether or not 18s will look weird or too small.

i have a few issues i would like some advice on:

• would 18s with 245/40 fronts and 275/35 rears combined with the coilovers, lowered to give a very slight tyre tuck be 'too' low? has anyone seen how 18s look at this height? if so what were your opinions?
• in your opinion, for our F30s (specifically for spirited driving, weekend only, occasional track day) would you say wider 18s or slightly slimmer 19s be better?

for a bit of added context, i'm currently FBO on ethanol at around 474whp. i will eventually be going pure 800 but would like to dial in nice suspension, stance, and handling first.

the two wheel sizes i am considering specifically are:

19x8.5+35 fronts & 19x9.5+40 rears with 235/40 fronts & 275/35 rears

OR

18x9+30 fronts & 18x10+40 rears with 245/40 fronts & 275/35 rears eventually going 285/35 once hybrid turbo

my goal for the stance is to tuck a small amount of tyre while maintaining legal ground clearance (100mm) as well as improve performance. however as i rarely track the car currently, i am leaning more towards stance and traction.

let me know your opinions, even better if you can shoot some photos through of your/others F30's with similar setups and how they're sitting. cheers lads