My mustang feels like a boat so I can’t even imagine that truck

Recently I bought my first car (abarth spider) and my auntie chimes in that the colour reminds her of "the E-type". The E-type in question.

New battery. Made sure everything is tight. Just slow cranking

Looking for ideas on how to either improve this design, or change it completely...

I've been using the same one for the past 2 changes. Should I Just go to the Toyota dealership or a car shop and tell them to do it so they can replace the oil filter? Would they be honest to me about replacing the oil filter?

Hello! Can anyone tell me if it’s safe to mix coolant of same color?
Here’s what happened
My car Honda CRV diesel that has Honda type 2 ~P-OAT (blue coolant)
Drained it and replaced it with (MY BIG MISTAKE)
3 Liters Pro 99 blue coolant ~OAT
and
Subaru super coolant -P-OAT 1 Liter

Should I drain all coolant or no?
Thank you in advanced

Not really a car person so trying to get some advice I guess....

A month or 2 ago I noticed a kind of knocking sound while driving. I chalked it up to it being my front tire because ik they were getting worn down a good bit and I thought I had heard similar sounds before when it was about to finally give out. I havent heard it in a bit until today while driving to work i started hearing/feeling this rhythmic knocking sound. After work I went and got some oil, my dip stick showed the levels being at the low dot, which correlated to the quick Google search of the sound. Got it full and the engine sounded better baseline. Started driving and no knocking until I started coasting around 25-30 mph and would increase in tempo when accelerating. Once I got above 50 the knocked stopped completely for the rest of my way home. Hoping it was just needing the oil to cycle more but what would be worse case scenario here?

Anyone know what this rattling noise is? Usually only happens when I accelerate to 15 mph and cuts off after that. I have a 2016 Honda Civic LX

I AM POSTING THIS IN A FEW SUBS TRYING TO GET HELP

Working on a 2012 Toyota Highlander FWD, 2.7L 1AR-FE. There's a possibility the engine/transmission came from a Toyota Venza with the same 2.7L engine, but we don't know the donor year.

Current trouble codes:

• P0011 – Intake camshaft timing overadvanced (Bank 1)
• P0015 – Exhaust camshaft timing overretarded (Bank 1)

Both codes return after clearing.

Symptoms:

• Starts and idles fairly smoothly when cold, around 1,000 RPM.
• Once warmed up, idle drops to roughly 500–750 RPM and becomes noticeably rough.
• Before the timing-chain replacement, the engine ran fine other than a brief rattle on startup.
• When we started the timing-chain job using a replacement timing kit, we discovered that the original timing-chain guides had deteriorated and were falling apart.

What's been replaced or checked:

• Timing chain replaced using a timing-chain kit.
• Both intake and exhaust VVT oil-control solenoids replaced with new units.
• Spark plugs replaced.
• Crankshaft position sensor replaced.
• Found and repaired a broken ground strap running from the body to the engine mount. Repair made no noticeable difference.
• Checked EFI MAIN, EFI NO.1, EFI NO.2, EFI NO.3 and IG2 fuses; all good.
• Visually inspected vacuum hoses.
• Removed timing cover and verified all three colored timing-chain links align with the factory timing marks on both camshaft sprockets and crankshaft.
• Neither cam phaser was removed or had its center bolt loosened during the timing-chain work.
• Tested starting and idling with each VVT solenoid unplugged separately. Neither the intake nor exhaust solenoid being unplugged made any noticeable difference in cold starting or cold idle. The ECM detected the disconnected circuits as expected. These tests were performed while the engine was cold, so we haven't established whether unplugging either affects the rough idle when warm.

TOPDON TopScan live data (engine running):

• VVT Control Status #1: OFF
• VVT Aim Angle #1: 0%
• VVT OCV Duty #1: 0%
• VVT Change Angle #1: 0°
• VVT Ex OCV Duty #1: 0%
• VVT Ex Chg Angle #1: 0°
• VVT Advance Fail: ON

These readings remained unchanged when RPM was raised to approximately 1,500–2,000 with no load. Not sure whether the ECM is inhibiting VVT operation or whether the scan tool isn't reporting the data correctly.

Something interesting we noticed:

While manually rotating the crankshaft with a ratchet (timing chain installed and tensioned, spark plugs installed), the intake phaser's outer sprocket continued moving smoothly with the chain, but the inner portion, center bolt and camshaft appeared to suddenly jump relative to the sprocket, then return to the parked position.

This makes us suspicious of the intake phaser's internal locking mechanism, although we haven't confirmed it's defective.

Next steps:

I already have a replacement intake VVT phaser on the way. We're also planning to perform a mechanical oil-pressure test tomorrow, October 19, checking pressure at hot idle and higher RPM.

Google Drive link with photos/videos of the engine, timing components and phaser movement:

View Google Drive folder – Photos and videos

Questions:

1. Does the intake phaser's internal movement during manual crankshaft rotation suggest a failed or disengaged locking pin, or can that be normal?
2. Could one defective intake phaser contribute to both P0011 and P0015, or should we suspect a shared oil-pressure/oil-delivery issue?
3. If mechanical oil pressure tests normal, what would you investigate next?

Trying to avoid throwing more parts at it unnecessarily. Any insight from someone familiar with Toyota's 1AR-FE VVT system would be greatly appreciated.

Hey motorheads! I’m currently restoring my BMW E30, and the metal underneath the seats is now bare. I want to clean it properly, apply heat-resistant paint, then add plastic asphalt undercoating and reinstall the carpet on top. Is this enough, or is applying epoxy primer as the first layer a must to properly protect the metal against rust and moisture? I’d appreciate your advice and recommendations!

I see some crazy feats being done, such as a Bentley Flying Spur, a 3-ton car handling like a 911.

That might be an exaggeration, but you get the point - a car such as the Flying Spur, Panamera, S-Class handling like a sporty coupe/small sedan.

Has anyone driven one of these and can give an opinion on how a 5.5 meter 3-ton car feels in bends with this tech? Looking at reviews, it sounds unreal.

I tried to de-badge my 2015 Subaru. I’ve wanted to do it for years and a few YouTube videos made it look easy. (Classic!)

Although the adhesive took MANY hours to get off, there is dirt/debris (carbon deposits?) stuck on the clear coat that was in-between the letters. (Car is 11-years old; is usually kept “pretty clean” but not detailed)

How can I treat this area so it looks clean? Sounds like I may need a paint correction? (I’ve never done anything like that before)

I have a 2017 Honda Civic and over the past year I started to get this haze on parts of the Windshield that appears when it is raining and I use the wipers. It is only on parts of the windshield and appears to be around the areas the wiper blade stops.

I tried using the Invisible Glass clay bar glass stripper and then put on brand new Bosch wipers and it did not fix the problem.

Does anyone know how to fix this problem? I see some people saying to use a vinegar and water solution but I do not want to keep spending money on trying different ways to fix this if they do not work.

Ran over a curb and realized I got this scratch. Is this surface level or should I be going to a mechanic asap? Will need to do highway driving in order to get home. Thank you!

https://imgur.com/a/fPF0UOY

so I've done rear pads before, but this was my first time doing them on a car with an electronic parking brake. I had the wheels off when I realized my little code reader couldn't put the parking brake in service mode on this car.

I stopped there and borrowed a friend's topdon 800 BT2 scanner to finish the job. The brakes themselves went fine. I just hadn't expected the scanner to be the thing that held me up.

What other routine jobs have caught you out like that?

Please sign my petition so that we can bring light to more of the issue these cars have.

https://c.org/tCNV8CJNS2

Hallo zusammen,
hat jemand folgendes Produkt im Einsatz gehabt und kann dazu seine Erfahrungen teilen? :)

https://www.action.com/de-de/p/2529502/c-c-scheibenwischerflussigkeit/?utm_source=app&utm_medium=app&utm_campaign=product_shared

posting this anywhere I can think of for any sort of advice.

Where to start... Sorry for the novel, but I'm just so lost and frustrated at this point, I'm looking anywhere I can.

So little over a month back we moved into a new place, loaded and unloaded the first round of stuff. When trying to turn the car back on, she was suddenly stuck in a crank but no-start condition. There were no check engine lights, no prior symptoms (like a slow or rough start, idle, overheating, strange noise, or anything I could notice prior to just not starting again). A ton of things have been replaced at this point, and sure I should have just taken it in already, but a buddy of mine who is an actual mechanic (with a fancy reader) did some diagnosing. Couldn't narrow it down to an exact culprit, but texted a few things and pointed me in a direction, so I thought.

Problems: cranks but does not turn over. Have gotten her to start/turn over by either spraying starter fluid OR in the process of replacing, found that if I took out and put back in (to gain access to a part deeper in) she would sometimes turn over a single time. When we can get her to start, idles just fine running until either shut off, or if revved and hits 4k rpm the engine shuts off (electronics stay on). Not sure if taking a bunch of things out just tricks the computer or something, but have not gotten her to start past the one time, or with fluid.

That being said, from the diagnosis we know the low pressure fuel pump is functional.

Have replaced the HPFP, battery, throttle body, both camshaft sensors, fuel rail sensor, and now the crankshaft sensor.

All of which did not change the symptoms or sounds, only sometimes triggered the singular start after reassembling.

The last code reading was done before the sensor changes (those were done after the manual parts and reading).

Previous codes had shown at one point those parts or codes that could be triggered by those.

The latest codes I've seen are in the image below. And from what I've seen online and from various sources, it shouldn't be the ECM, but who knows at this point. Figured if it was, replacing the sensors first would be much cheaper than even just a tow anyways.

My next step is to get it started with some fluid, and slowly make my way to the nearest Midas to have them thoroughly diagnose this.

We need to get her back up and running ASAP as bills are coming up, and we need to make extra money. So if anyone has any idea, or can suggest a better route or shop to take her to near Peoria AZ, please let me know. Thanks for the time in reading this.

So this morning my car did a big start and died completely and I adjusted my cable on my battery and she started right up but my headlights and power seat and power release on my trunk doesn’t work now along with some of my interior lights and I’m not a car guy as this is my first car so my first thought is the fuse went out, any advice or suggestions to look at???

I woke oof and all my windows and mirrors are crystallized. I tried vinegar and water, windex, and water spot remover. Nothing worked so PLEASE HELP

Just noticed this small nick in tyre wall will this pass MOT in uk next week? Think picture just makes it look worse than what it is tbh

I work remotely and recently bought a used 2017 Mazda3 from out of state, I had to get it registered here which means passing an emission test first. Last time I changed a car battery I went to the test station and got turned away because some monitors weren't ready, I paid for the test but had to book another appointment, and honestly had no idea what had gone wrong.

So this time I checked with a scanner before going, just in case that happen again, I bought a topdon carpal, I'm not professional so I just chose one after comparing some scanners. The I/M readiness page showed a few monitors weren't ready, didn't mean something was broken, the car just needed more normal driving to complete its checks. I drove for a few days and checked again each morning, and ran a full health check to make sure there weren't any pending codes before booking the test.

Anyway this isn't a guarantee you'll pass the official inspection, and the rules depend on where you live, but at least this time I knew what was going on before showing up...Anyone else had this happen after chaning a battery?

so i noticed this truck (2011 crew cab silverado) at a dealership all my family shops at. of course its pre owned but based on just this picture could you tell if its even worth it to buy? eventually id get the frame fixed and replaced as well. but years from now

What is your fav vae?

Do i need to do something? This is from a 2019 chev trailblazer. I see some rust spots.