Hi, I’m wondering if there’s a way a could replace this valet lock? The car got a new ignition and key when I first got it so the key I have doesn’t lock this anymore. Does the dealership have to do this or can I contact a lock smith? My car got broken into and they stole the subwoofer out of my truck so I wouldn’t mind a little more protection from theft .

im really struggling to find the rims on this truck i saw at a show, been wanting to buy the same set for my own f150, can someone please help me, the closest thing ive found were these "XT2 Stance Flow Formed rims"

please help

Inherited this jeep and I’ve been cleaning it had been sitting for a year but engine rebuilt few years ago has 500 miles on it. I’ve had to much fun

Came with lots of memorabilia also.

Its a 2014 Nissan Rogue Select and the key doesnt work on the door. I believe the lock has been broken.

I was working on my car and locked everything with the battery disconnected. My car only opens with the remote. Now I cant open the hood to reconnect it. Ive tried tugging on the wire and prying with a screwdriver but I can get the hood open.
I tried a slim jim but im not skilled enough to do that. less

I’m looking for an engine splash guard for my 2020 Kia Rio. I can’t find any at my local junk yard. I can’t pay $100 plus for shipping. Any ideas on how to get it cheaper?

Right now I'm just doing maintenance on my cars and would like something that can clear and read as many codes as possible. However soon I am going to try to do an engine swap and make a project car (just got a lot of disposable income and a high paying job and it wouldn't be financially irresponsible) and would like to be able to tune an ECU. I would like to just buy the final scanner now rather than buying a more expensive one later on for the project car. Budget $4000 if needed but obviously would like to spend less money if possible.

My sibling gave me his truck, but it was sitting on flat tires for a few months and this was the result. I'm currently waiting for Costco to ship the tires that I ordered to the warehouse so I get can these changed out asap. However, I am just generally curious, is this a bad level of dry rot? And would this level cause blowouts or flats ... etc? These are Goodyear wrangler fortitude ht's.

I hit a curb recently and I’m just not sure if the damage is bad enough to replace the tire the ride seems fine so I think my rim is okay, it doesn’t feel bent at 80 mph. I see no chords or wire in the damage so I think I’m fine but I might just replace the tire to be safe, just wanted to someone else’s opinion.

Hey everyone,

I'm hoping someone here, particularly a Mitsubishi mechanic or someone familiar with the 1.2L three-cylinder Mirage, can help me narrow down a crank-no-start issue.

Vehicle:

• 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.2L, 3-cylinder
• Approximately 105,000 miles
• Automatic transmission

Background:

My car was running before I got a flat tire, which forced me to leave it parked for approximately 1–2 weeks. When I went to start it again, the engine would crank normally but never fully start.

It occasionally sounds like it's about to fire up, but it never actually runs.

Here's what I've checked so far:

• Battery: Removed and professionally tested at AutoZone. Passed, no charging necessary.
• Jump starter: Tried a portable jump pack with no improvement.
• Starter: Cranks the engine normally.
• OBD-II: Using a BlueDriver scanner. No stored trouble codes.
• Engine RPM: Approximately 150–300 RPM during cranking. Scanner briefly recorded a maximum of 562 RPM.
• Fuel pump: I hear a short humming sound from the rear when turning the ignition ON.
• Fuel pressure: Not tested; unsupported by my scanner.
• Fuel smell: Noticed gasoline near the exhaust after repeated starting attempts.
• Spark plugs: Replaced within the last year or so.
• Control module voltage: Approximately 12.0V with a minimum recorded reading of 10.62V.

What a mechanic told me:

I recently had a mobile mechanic inspect the car. He believes the issue is electrical and mentioned that a signal isn't registering properly to allow the engine to fire. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly which signal he was referring to.

I don't want to start replacing sensors, ignition coils, or other components without confirming what's actually failing.

I also found this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbqhUBUG5pI

It shows someone troubleshooting a Mirage no-start condition by manipulating the fuel-pump fuse and attempting to clear a possible flooded-engine condition.

I'm wondering if anyone has encountered something similar.

My questions:

1. Does this sound more like a crankshaft/camshaft sensor signal issue, ignition problem, fuel delivery problem, or something else?
2. Since my scanner registers engine RPM during cranking, does that make a failed crankshaft position sensor less likely?
3. Has anyone experienced a flooded-engine no-start on the Mirage 1.2L?
4. What specific tests should I ask the mechanic to perform next to isolate the problem?
5. Are there known issues on this generation of Mirage that could explain these symptoms?

I'm trying to diagnose this logically rather than throw money at unnecessary parts.

Any advice from someone who's dealt with a similar problem would be appreciated. Thanks!

https://reddit.com/link/1xaatvb/video/meqxir130iwh1/player

​

following the recent re re release of the tesla roadster and the stunt with it driving upside down and landing. trying to figure out if there is any real life utility I may be missing.

suppose the suction (?) is good at cornering with speed although that needs a good road surface as much as it needs the car to be able to "stick"

The cold jets however are beyond me as to what you can do other than take an unnecesary risk (there are planes and helicopters capable of flying and landing safely which go for a lot less money than the roadster); do we think this is a iterative step towards actual flying cars? genuine curiosity on how others feel about this.

Hi everyone,

I had the engine oil and filters changed about 3,800 km ago. Since then, my BMW has been displaying the “Add 1 liter of engine oil” warning.

I have added engine oil (Motul 5W-30) several times, but the warning keeps coming back. After driving approximately 30 km, I received an oil level warning, as shown in the attached photos.

Car: 2010 BMW 116i E87, 1.6L, automatic transmission.

Has anyone experienced a similar issue? Could this be caused by a faulty oil level sensor, an oil leak, or another problem?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
(English is not my first language, so I used ChatGPT to help me write this post.)

No fuel getting out of high pressure fuel pump after engine rebuild. Fuel metering valve/fuel shut off solenoid gets no voltage. When power probed the solenoid works and all fuses and relays are good. Has anyone got any ideas or had a similar problem before?

I have an bmw 3 series 318d e91 with 200hk

Its on its last breath but i can not fint what kind of car i want next, i just know that i want it to go on the back tiers and have the same confterbility and that it has bluthooth, and look cool so not like a volvo (personal prerefrese) do you have any tips. English is not my fist language and I am realy tired so sorry for the miss spelling (fyi i dont have like 10k to youse on the car)

Ok I noticed white smoke coming out of the front passenger side. I immediatly turned engine off

Not sure exactly what has happened and why

I'm trying to DIY fix my car as much as I can. I have changed the alternator, AC compressor, spark plugs, etc by myself and sources the parts from RockAuto.

Now it's time to change the oil and it seems to me that chain car shops (AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto Parts, etc) have good prices and even promotions when buying oil and oil filters. I've learned to avoid these stores like the plague. Am I missing something?

I was working on my car and locked everything with the battery disconnected. My car only opens with the remote. Now I cant open the hood to reconnect it. Ive tried tugging on the wire and prying with a screwdriver but I can get the hood open. What should i do?

I tried a slim jim but im not skilled enough to do that. less

Hi everyone,
I have a 2009 Hyundai i30 1.4 petrol, and I’m trying to figure out why the ignition coil keeps causing problems.
The car originally started misfiring on cylinder 3. We replaced the ignition coil with a new Bereni coil, but after about a week, the problem returned.
We then started swapping the coils between cylinders to see whether the fault followed a particular coil. For example, we moved the old coil from cylinder 3 to cylinder 1 and installed the new coil in cylinder 1. After driving for a while, the new coil started causing problems again, while the old coil continued to work normally, even after being moved to a different cylinder.
We repeated this process with different cylinders, and the same thing kept happening: the fault seemed to follow the new coil rather than stay with a particular cylinder. The problem usually returns after about a week of driving.
When the misfire occurs, the car jerks, loses power, and the check engine light starts flashing. I’ve scanned it with an OBD2 reader, but so far, I’ve only been able to identify the misfire.
We also previously found quite a lot of oil in the ignition coil wells, and one of the electrical connections seemed loose.
One other detail that might be important: \\\*\\\*every time the misfire has returned, it has started after driving over a road bump.\\\*\\\*
The replacement coils are Bereni parts bought from a local auto parts store.
Could the replacement coils be faulty or incompatible with the car? Could a wiring or connector issue, the spark plugs, or the oil in the coil wells be causing this? I’m also wondering whether hitting a bump could be causing an intermittent electrical connection.
I’m a student on a tight budget, so I’d really appreciate any advice on what to check before spending money on more parts.
Thanks in advance!

Sorry for the terrible video , I haven’t noticed this sort of creaking / groaning sound before when I step on the brakes . Does anyone know what this could be / had this before ?

(Sorry if it’s a dumb question , i’m a newish driver and like educating myself, TIA)

my only question: how the hell?

New msrp 7,500
Edit I mean, K cars in general not just trucks

Hi everyone,
Recently i started hearing loud noise from the car. I think it’s exhaust issue. I can see this under my car. Does this need to be replaced or it can be welded/repaired. If possible I would get it repaired as currently I am tight on budget.
Could you please advise. Thanks!!

This is making a scraping noise when I go over a pothole. Should I repair with self tapping screws, zip ties, or order a new heat shield to replace ?

My grandad left me his CR-V with low miles, and it's way cleaner than it has any right to be. The problem is that he used folded newspapers on the floor for years instead of actual mats, so the carpet underneath is somehow pristine and I'm afraid I'll be the one to ruin it. I'm trying to find the best value for floor mats without spending luxury-car money on a practical old daily. Are there decent rubber mats that stay put and don't feel like flimsy plastic trash, or should I just get generic ones and trim them?

Please sign my petition so that we can bring light to more of the issue these cars have.

https://c.org/tCNV8CJNS2

Hallo zusammen,
hat jemand folgendes Produkt im Einsatz gehabt und kann dazu seine Erfahrungen teilen? :)

https://www.action.com/de-de/p/2529502/c-c-scheibenwischerflussigkeit/?utm_source=app&utm_medium=app&utm_campaign=product_shared