To everyone who thinks I was driving like a maniac: I’m a very cautious driver. Here’s what happened: in LA. Found a parking spot across the street. No cars on the road so I make a slow u-turn to get on the other side… it’s a large spot and I’m a good parallel parker. I pull forward, back into the spot, no problem. Feel I need to pull up a tiny bit and that’s when it happened. It was a very low curb. The sound was awful. I was literally inching forward. I haven’t had a car accident in 40 years. I am unemployed and I love my friend so much, I feel like a moron and I will get this fixed tomorrow somehow. It was literally 1 mph.

I've been using the same one for the past 2 changes. Should I Just go to the Toyota dealership or a car shop and tell them to do it so they can replace the oil filter? Would they be honest to me about replacing the oil filter?

I was working on my car and locked everything with the battery disconnected. My car only opens with the remote. Now I cant open the hood to reconnect it. Ive tried tugging on the wire and prying with a screwdriver but I can get the hood open. What should i do?

I tried a slim jim but im not skilled enough to do that. less

Do i need to do something? This is from a 2019 chev trailblazer. I see some rust spots.

I see some crazy feats being done, such as a Bentley Flying Spur, a 3-ton car handling like a 911.

That might be an exaggeration, but you get the point - a car such as the Flying Spur, Panamera, S-Class handling like a sporty coupe/small sedan.

Has anyone driven one of these and can give an opinion on how a 5.5 meter 3-ton car feels in bends with this tech? Looking at reviews, it sounds unreal.

I work remotely and recently bought a used 2017 Mazda3 from out of state, I had to get it registered here which means passing an emission test first. Last time I changed a car battery I went to the test station and got turned away because some monitors weren't ready, I paid for the test but had to book another appointment, and honestly had no idea what had gone wrong.

So this time I checked with a scanner before going, just in case that happen again, I bought a topdon carpal, I'm not professional so I just chose one after comparing some scanners. The I/M readiness page showed a few monitors weren't ready, didn't mean something was broken, the car just needed more normal driving to complete its checks. I drove for a few days and checked again each morning, and ran a full health check to make sure there weren't any pending codes before booking the test.

Anyway this isn't a guarantee you'll pass the official inspection, and the rules depend on where you live, but at least this time I knew what was going on before showing up...Anyone else had this happen after chaning a battery?

New msrp 7,500
Edit I mean, K cars in general not just trucks

Idk, they kinda creep me out when i see them in person. That’s why i love them. They look like they’re aggressive because they’re like “You better not mess with my owner if else!”

Edit: They used to creep me out but not anymore.

I woke oof and all my windows and mirrors are crystallized. I tried vinegar and water, windex, and water spot remover. Nothing worked so PLEASE HELP

I have an bmw 3 series 318d e91 with 200hk

Its on its last breath but i can not fint what kind of car i want next, i just know that i want it to go on the back tiers and have the same confterbility and that it has bluthooth, and look cool so not like a volvo (personal prerefrese) do you have any tips. English is not my fist language and I am realy tired so sorry for the miss spelling (fyi i dont have like 10k to youse on the car)

Hallo zusammen,
hat jemand folgendes Produkt im Einsatz gehabt und kann dazu seine Erfahrungen teilen? :)

https://www.action.com/de-de/p/2529502/c-c-scheibenwischerflussigkeit/?utm_source=app&utm_medium=app&utm_campaign=product_shared

posting this anywhere I can think of for any sort of advice.

Where to start... Sorry for the novel, but I'm just so lost and frustrated at this point, I'm looking anywhere I can.

So little over a month back we moved into a new place, loaded and unloaded the first round of stuff. When trying to turn the car back on, she was suddenly stuck in a crank but no-start condition. There were no check engine lights, no prior symptoms (like a slow or rough start, idle, overheating, strange noise, or anything I could notice prior to just not starting again). A ton of things have been replaced at this point, and sure I should have just taken it in already, but a buddy of mine who is an actual mechanic (with a fancy reader) did some diagnosing. Couldn't narrow it down to an exact culprit, but texted a few things and pointed me in a direction, so I thought.

Problems: cranks but does not turn over. Have gotten her to start/turn over by either spraying starter fluid OR in the process of replacing, found that if I took out and put back in (to gain access to a part deeper in) she would sometimes turn over a single time. When we can get her to start, idles just fine running until either shut off, or if revved and hits 4k rpm the engine shuts off (electronics stay on). Not sure if taking a bunch of things out just tricks the computer or something, but have not gotten her to start past the one time, or with fluid.

That being said, from the diagnosis we know the low pressure fuel pump is functional.

Have replaced the HPFP, battery, throttle body, both camshaft sensors, fuel rail sensor, and now the crankshaft sensor.

All of which did not change the symptoms or sounds, only sometimes triggered the singular start after reassembling.

The last code reading was done before the sensor changes (those were done after the manual parts and reading).

Previous codes had shown at one point those parts or codes that could be triggered by those.

The latest codes I've seen are in the image below. And from what I've seen online and from various sources, it shouldn't be the ECM, but who knows at this point. Figured if it was, replacing the sensors first would be much cheaper than even just a tow anyways.

My next step is to get it started with some fluid, and slowly make my way to the nearest Midas to have them thoroughly diagnose this.

We need to get her back up and running ASAP as bills are coming up, and we need to make extra money. So if anyone has any idea, or can suggest a better route or shop to take her to near Peoria AZ, please let me know. Thanks for the time in reading this.

So this morning my car did a big start and died completely and I adjusted my cable on my battery and she started right up but my headlights and power seat and power release on my trunk doesn’t work now along with some of my interior lights and I’m not a car guy as this is my first car so my first thought is the fuse went out, any advice or suggestions to look at???

Hit and run. I was able to assemble the parts I could find. If anyone can tell me what car this is from I would be grateful. I believe it's somebody in the neighborhood. It's yellowed at the top, so I assume that's the top.

Hello! Can anyone tell me if it’s safe to mix coolant of same color?
Here’s what happened
My car Honda CRV diesel that has Honda type 2 ~P-OAT (blue coolant)
Drained it and replaced it with (MY BIG MISTAKE)
3 Liters Pro 99 blue coolant ~OAT
and
Subaru super coolant -P-OAT 1 Liter

Should I drain all coolant or no?
Thank you in advanced

Not really a car person so trying to get some advice I guess....

A month or 2 ago I noticed a kind of knocking sound while driving. I chalked it up to it being my front tire because ik they were getting worn down a good bit and I thought I had heard similar sounds before when it was about to finally give out. I havent heard it in a bit until today while driving to work i started hearing/feeling this rhythmic knocking sound. After work I went and got some oil, my dip stick showed the levels being at the low dot, which correlated to the quick Google search of the sound. Got it full and the engine sounded better baseline. Started driving and no knocking until I started coasting around 25-30 mph and would increase in tempo when accelerating. Once I got above 50 the knocked stopped completely for the rest of my way home. Hoping it was just needing the oil to cycle more but what would be worse case scenario here?

my only question: how the hell?

I'm trying to DIY fix my car as much as I can. I have changed the alternator, AC compressor, spark plugs, etc by myself and sources the parts from RockAuto.

Now it's time to change the oil and it seems to me that chain car shops (AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto Parts, etc) have good prices and even promotions when buying oil and oil filters. I've learned to avoid these stores like the plague. Am I missing something?

so i noticed this truck (2011 crew cab silverado) at a dealership all my family shops at. of course its pre owned but based on just this picture could you tell if its even worth it to buy? eventually id get the frame fixed and replaced as well. but years from now

What I think is, high torque motors seems great on paper but theres other parts in the setup that can wear out too. The hinges and brackets move every time the steps open and close and the wiring and sensors can get messed up by dirt and weather

if youve had powered steps for a few years what gave you trouble first was it the motor or something else in the setup

Please sign my petition so that we can bring light to more of the issue these cars have.

https://c.org/tCNV8CJNS2

What is your fav vae?

Recently I bought my first car (abarth spider) and my auntie chimes in that the colour reminds her of "the E-type". The E-type in question.

No fuel getting out of high pressure fuel pump after engine rebuild. Fuel metering valve/fuel shut off solenoid gets no voltage. When power probed the solenoid works and all fuses and relays are good. Has anyone got any ideas or had a similar problem before?

My grandad left me his CR-V with low miles, and it's way cleaner than it has any right to be. The problem is that he used folded newspapers on the floor for years instead of actual mats, so the carpet underneath is somehow pristine and I'm afraid I'll be the one to ruin it. I'm trying to find the best value for floor mats without spending luxury-car money on a practical old daily. Are there decent rubber mats that stay put and don't feel like flimsy plastic trash, or should I just get generic ones and trim them?